Mazda3

gambit293

Sounds like there's still hope! Everyone write letters; complain about the snow and what not...

npaladin2000

"Sounds like there's still hope! Everyone write letters; complain about the snow and what not..."

A better idea would be to find a way to convince Mazda to get the 3 into rally racing, to compete with Mitsu, Subie, etc. THe 3's got a great chassis, and with an AWD system, might do VERY well.

ashutoshsm

The Mazdaspeed is purportedly on its way. 280HP and AWD, with a turbo-ed MZR 2.3 (the 6i and 3s engine). And yes, the European 6 Wagon does come with an AWD option, I believe.

As for AWD on the V6 6, since someone mentioned it as non-existent - I thought I'd mention the Jag X-Type. Same engine, similar chasis (based on an older Mazda design - off which the Mondeo/Contour/Mystique are also derived). So there IS hope

fowler3

The important thing is to NOT slip the clutch. That overheats it and can cause a fire. The best place to learn the gears is in a huge parking lot, like a supermarket or a school on weekends. get somebody who can drive stick to take it there and then you drive it.

All cars are different so you have to get "a feel" for where the clutch takes hold. That's the spot where you let the clutch OUT all the way, otherwise, you get a jerky start. What you are learning is coordination between your right foot, left foot, and hand on the shifter -- working them together at the same time.

I learned to drive 4-speed stick in 1953. Already knew how to drive American 3-speed cars.

Creakid1: I know what you mean about driving boats. That's a whole different ballgame. "Parking" a boat beside a dock allowing for the wind and water motion is tricky, without hitting the dock and other boats. Putting one in a space between two other boats and not hitting either is real tricky. And parking a big boat (25 footer) with no rudder control is the worst, especially at night, in a stiff breeze, and you are singlehanding.

The most anxious time I ever had docking a boat was putting it between two others with a Coast Guard Inspector standing on the dock watching me. Didn't hit either one nor the dock, but I got a citation for not having a fire extinguisher. LOL!

So, when you are zooming your 3's and get pulled over for speeding you may talk the cop out of it, but be sure those mods you made are legal or you may get a ticket for that.

fowler3

fowler3

Did you see on the evening news about the government requiring SAB/SAC on new cars? Good idea to order the ABS/SAB/SAC option if buying now because manufacturers say it will cost buyers $1-billion when they are mandatory. You won't pay all of that, just a small hunk.

fowler3

solidsnake007

I priced the Mazda3i using Consumer Reports, it comes with ABS/SAB/SAC, AC, Power everything, 16" alloy wheels, fog lights and automatic, the MSRP is $18,215. And the dealer paid $16,513, with the dealer invoice being $16,787. This is bargain! I priced this car with Edmunds($17,824) and Carsdirect($17,437) with the same options! That is why I didn't consider the "i", but now I can start negotiating from $16,513 and will show the dealer my CR pricing report. Anyone else used Consumer Report's new car pricing service???

bean3422

If I am not mistaken, the majority of Mazda vehicles in their primary markets (Japan and Europe) have an AWD option. I know for sure that the MPV and M6 do.

It would be an easy thing if the Japanese Mazda3 has AWD to import it here. This is their marketing department speaking (I don't have much respect for their US marketing department...such gaffes as not allocating enough production for 5-speed and sport Mazda6s comes to mind.)

If the marketing department decides there is a market for AWD here in the US, then we will get them.

audia8q

There is a certain market for AWD...but remember, only part of the country gets snow. Subaru and Audi have had a tough time making any big sales numbers in the south compared to northern markets. Being a northeast dealer I would love everything to come in AWD...but our mazda store in Florida would find zero value in that option.

kyfdx

I had an AWD Mazda.. It was an '88 323GTX. I think it was only made in '88-'89. It was one of those "homologation specials". I think just 5000 of them made. So, they would qualify for a rally series. DOHC intercooled turbo with AWD. It was a cool little car.

regards,
kyfdx

ctflea

Well, I picked up my brand new Mazda 3 5dr yesterday. My first ever new car. Quite proud of myself, as i got $300 over invoice, which I didn't think was too bad. Velocity Red, Auto, Moonroof, ABS, Nav. I didn't really want the Nav, but was OK with the price and being able to drive it home that day. I wanted ABS, but was told it was hard to get by a couple of dealers without either Nav or Leather. Anyone else been told this?

Thanks,
Colin

gambit293

280 hp! Wow, that's a huge jump from the 3s. If you don't mind me asking, what is your source for this?

npaladin2000

THey managed to find one with ABS for me (in red, no less) without either of these options, but they just couldn't find one with ABS but without the sunroof. I don't mind; I'm really liking the sunroof.

Took them nearly a week to find it, and the ONLY one they could find was red.

alpha01

You said you're in college, correct? I am not familiar with Mazdas financing programs, but many car companies offer graduate rebates and/or financing programs for students that will be graduating in the next 6 months, or who have graduated in the past two years. For example, every year around this time, Toyota offers 2.5x its normal graduate rebate of $400. From now until Aug 31st, qualifying buyers get $1000 off most Toyotas.

That said, the Mazda is awesome. I test drove one several weeks ago and was literally stunned at the refinement, poise, room, quality, style, etc.

I dont mean to go agaisnt the grain here, but with if your commute is traffic intensive, you may want to stick with auto. Tts something to consider. Sticks are fun, but not in traffic.

~alpha

fowler3

The clutch gets worn out from holding it in at traffic lights. Audi use to tell buyers to put the car in neutral at traffic stops, letting the clutch out, to slow the wear, which few could remember to do. Others didn't like the idea because they wanted to be ready to take off.

fowler3

backy

You mean, not everyone lets the clutch out at traffic lights? I can't imagine holding the clutch in all that time.

If I had to drive in stop-n-go traffic all the time, I'd get an automatic too. Fortunately, I don't. :-) I have a 5-speed for me and a slushbox for the DW.

pat

The thing to remember about a clutch is to keep your foot off of it as much as possible. Anyone who keeps it depressed at red lights is going to wear it out sooner than need be.

langod

Yep. I did when I bought my 4-door "s" in December. The "i" is a quick little car -- about the equivelent of the current Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla. It didn't feel too much different from the 3s in basic driving manuvers and in city traffic. But once you get the opportunity to mash the throttle and the 2.3 motor revs above 4 grand, the difference is immediately apparent. After feeling that difference I knew I just wouldn't be happy with the smaller motor.

The 3i is a nice sensible car for someone who is looking for a fun-to-drive commuter car. The 3s is for the sports car fan who just can't justify $30k on a RX8 or VW R32, or can't imagine themselves in a WRX or Cooper.

gambit293

How does holding down the clutch pedal wear out the clutch? I could see this wearing down the mechanism that controls the pedal and the clutch engagement, but the CLUTCH itself? Isn't the clutch just a free spinning plate when the pedal is depressed?

solidsnake007

Is ABS really that important? I will not be able to afford to get ABS on the "s", because I need automatic because I rarely drive on the highway and spend most time on city streets. I hope to buy the "i" at invoice with the options I listed earlier (ABS, AC, AUTO...), which would be about $16,500. Or get the "s" with automatic as the only option and hope to pay invoice which would be about $17,300.

kyfdx

Two schools of thought on this..

One says by keeping the clutch pedal depressed at lights, you are wearing out the components that disengage the clutch.

The other says that by letting the clutch pedal out at lights, then having to disengage the clutch a second time to shift it into gear, you are causing the clutch disc to engage (make contact) twice, increasing wear on the clutch disc.

I am a proponent of the second one. I always hold my clutch in at lights.

I remember in driver's ed class, we were told the car should always remain "in gear" while at a stop light. In drive for automatics, and in first for manuals. So, that you are always ready to move when necessary. (Of course, this was before electricity was invented).

regards,
kyfdx

tht

Hi all! Thank you for all your comments. You helped me make my decision. Got a Mazda 3 5 door (hatchback), white, manual with safety package, leather, moonroof/6 CD package, and xenon/TMPS package for $18.7k.

Absolutely love driving a manual again, especially this 2750 lb car. Still babying it a little and haven't revved over 5k rpm. The leather trim also makes a big difference. My only complaint is the AC is as strong as my big old Explorer in hot and muggy Houston.

The owner's manual says that the AC should be run with outside air the majority of time, and only to run it in recirculation mode when keeping odors out and for the really "hot" days. I would think running it in recirc mode most of the time would be the most efficient?

kyfdx

Recirculation mode means no fresh air. It is more efficient, but in situations where the fresh air mode can be used and is sufficient, it will definitely be healthier and will retard mold growth in your A/C system.

gee35coupe

Will wear out the throw-out bearing. It wasn't designed to be held for such long uninterrupted periods. You burn it out, you have to do all clutch related labor for a relatively inexpensive part that should last longer than the clutch disk.
http://www.carcarecouncil.org/Manual_Transmission/throw-out_beari- ng.shtml

The clutch is designed to be let in and out, the bearing was not designed to be used for extended periods.

alpha01

My test drive 3 was an i auto which had plenty of pep, and I like the seating fabrics better than that offered by the s. Do you need the s model? Id take ABS over the added rocker panels (slight exaggeration) but the i is hardly a poor substitute for the s.

PS- congrats to all the new owners here!

~alpha

kyfdx

Hmmmm... depends on how you define "extended periods". I've never had a throw-out bearing wear out before the clutch disc. I'm not even saying my way is the right way. But, I did have a car for 130K miles and 12 years on the original clutch.

Most premature wear and cause of clutch failure is poor driving mechanics.. giving the car more gas than needed and "slipping" the clutch to get moving. If you drive it properly, I doubt whether or not you hold in the pedal at lights will make enough difference to matter. A new driver can take 30,000 miles off a clutch in one driving lesson.

regards,
kyfdx

mazda6s

In modern cars the clutch disc will almost always wear out before the throw-out bearing, whether you hold it down at red lights or not. Years ago, the VW bug was one car where that was not true.

The disc and the pressure plate do most of the work and the disc is what wears out first.

gee35coupe

But I drive as Pat suggested. I keep my foot off of the clutch. I don't "pop" it, but I use it just enough to keep the driving smooth.

Holding it in during a 2 to 3 minute red light is a no-no in my book.

pat

>> Years ago, the VW bug was one car where that was not true.

That's funny - it was years ago on a VW bug that I was taught to keep my foot off the clutch as much as possible.

It's a habit I developed and kept. I've never had to replace any part of a clutch. Anecdotal, yes - but it works for me.

mdaffron

As the owner of several cars with manual trannies over the past 20 years, allow me to make two points:

(1) The reason most experts tell you to keep your foot off the clutch pedal is that many drivers tend to use the clutch pedal as a footrest. Placing slight pressure on the pedal without depressing it all the way places wear on the clutch disc since you're letting it "slip" -- which is the other big no-no. "Holding" the car on an uphill grade using the clutch is done by allowing the clutch to "slip," making slight but not full contact with the flywheel. This is like driving with your foot on the brake, having the same effect on your clutch disc as the other has on your brake pads. The resulting heat isn't very good for the transmission either.

(2) Depressing the clutch pedal ALL THE WAY at a stoplight causes no wear on the clutch disc itself -- yes, it is being held off and is spinning freely -- but it does place undue wear on the release bearing. While usually not too detrimental, a new release bearing (along with the labor associated with replacing it) is not too cheap. Truth be told, I'll hold my clutch pedal down when I know it's going to be a short light or a quick stop at a stop sign.

For longevity's sake, using the above recommendations in my own driving, I've observed the following mileage on original clutches:

(1) 1988 Hyundai Excel GL: 117,000 miles, still working fine when car traded on:
(2) 1992 Mazda Protege LX: 83,000 miles, still working fine when traded on:
(3) 1994 Mazda B2300 pickup: 114,000 miles, still working fine when traded on:
(4) 2000 Mazda Protege ES: Clutch replaced at 73,000 miles due to TSB. However, it was working fine and I was told by my mechanic that it looked hardly worn at all, with no "hot spots" and very little wear. He said it was a very unabused-looking clutch -- even though I have been known to dump it from time to time ...

Meade

bean3422

Audio...considering the benefits of AWD even in heavy rain, it would be an option I would consider in Hawaii if I lived there. There is also some performance advantage in the corners if you have ever experienced the thrill (not) of your front driver tires trying to keep up with the steering inputs. (Then there are the negatives of worse mileage and heavier weight.) But I am not your typical US consumer...and I hope I never will be.

Mdaffron...what TSB is that? I also have a 2000 ES 5-speed...is it something that the dealer worked with you on?

Thanks,
Bean

newcar31

"Truth be told, I'll hold my clutch pedal down when I know it's going to be a short light or a quick stop at a stop sign."

Me too, but it seems like everytime the light is getting a little long, I put it in neutral....and then the light turns green right after I do that.

The throw-out bearing was making noise on my 92 Integra when I sold it with about 130,000 miles on it. My friend's brother has it now and it just turned 180,000 (original clutch) and the throw-out bearing is still making the same noise and it hasn't gotten worse.

FWIW, all 7 cars that I've owned have been manual transmission, and I have never replaced a clutch or throw-out bearing.

mdaffron

Oh lord, we'd better not get into it here since it's the Mazda3 discussion. (I don't want another Pat-O-Gram, lol, har har har, come on Pat, laugh with me.)

Do me a favor and meet me over on the Protege: Problems & Solutions discussion, or just scroll back through the posts from late April/early May.

I'll just summarize, if I may, that yes, it's a TSB, it involves clutch chatter when the car is cold, and my dealer paid for the parts ($400) and I picked up the labor ($303). I have a brand-new, redesigned clutch, pressure plate and flywheel -- all OEM and warranted for 12 months/12,000 miles just like the original one was.

That's something to remember, everyone -- unlike the automatic transmission in an automatic car, the clutch in a car with a manual transmission (just the clutch, not the rest of the tranny) is considered a "wear item," and on Mazdas, it's warranted for 12 months/12,000 miles.

But not to worry. As I illustrated with my car history above, it's hard to wear out a clutch.

Meade

solidsnake007

Has anyone paid MSRP on their Mazda3? When you finance through a 3rd party like Capital One or E-Loan, do you pay tax on the purchase, like if the car costs $17,000 and there is 6% tax, it would come up to $18,020, or is the tax paid on the loan payments and you only pay tax on the down payment/trade in?

ashutoshsm

... you pay tax on the difference between the trade-in and new-car values. Which can sometimes make a reasonable trade-in deal a good one.

MSRP for a 3 - who'd have thunk it?

FYI - the Corolla and Civic are going for closer to invoice, and lower prices, in comparison. Of course, it is my opnion the 3 does offer more VFM. Now, finally, the market is beginning to agree

fowler3

You will pay the tax on the cost of the car before any rebates or other incentives. But the other items: title and registration fees will be listed after the price and tax.

fowler3

fowler3

When approaching a traffic light and see that it is changing to red, how many of you downshift and how many stay in top gear and use the brakes to slow down?

I always downshift to save wear on the brake discs, well ahead of the stop, and use the brakes to bring the car to a halt. Then shift to neutral and stay off the clutch. Older 5-speeds, they use to tell you to not hold the shifter if the tranny was directly connected to it.

Current 5-speeds have cables linking the shifter to the gearbox.

fowler3

chikoo

>>> Will wear out the throw-out bearing. It wasn't designed to be held for such long uninterrupted periods. <<<

I have designed a clutch throw out bearing that was used in an extrmely popular suzuki car.

We primarily used a standard bearing and fitted it inside a housing that will fit inthe clutch assembly.

Therefore, the concept that it is not intended to be in continuous use is kind of funny. Yes it does not have continuous flow oil like an engine bearing, but nonetheless it will hold up very well for the amount of time you can hold the clutch at a traffic light without any problems, since it is a double sealed greased for life bearing. just like the ones used in your wheels.

flight13

Posted this in Problems forum but figured I might get more of a response here...
During a test drive the a/c was not performing well at all but after about 20 minutes it was working great. Anyone know if this was just the car breaking-in or does it take that long every time?
BTW...it wasn't the cycling issue previously discussed and the a/c was on, set to recirc and on high.
Thanks

edgarem

It is my subjective opinion that there is a fair bit of subjectivity in comparing A/C effectiveness.

But, my wife's Mz3 GT at 4000 mi takes a little longer to cool down than my V6 Camry. It cools down a lot faster than her old Echo. Which all makes a bit of sense.

And on recirc, it is more than adequate after ten minutes. Hey, I drove for fifteen years before they put in A/C in cars! This is luxury for me.

Bottom line - if it hasn't cooled down after ten minutes, have it checked.

gee35coupe

In the whole scheme of things...If you choose to hold the clutch in at red lights and such, you are introducing another wear item into the list of things that already need to be replaced on a car. Sure the throw out bearing should be able to withstand a little red light idling, but then you are adding wear to another item, increasing the chances of a problem. Which will go out first? The clutch disc or the bearing?

mazda6s

1986 Mazda 626 - 144000 miles on it when I traded it in, original clutch.

npaladin2000

Woah, I finally saw a second Mazda3 in my area. Unfortunately, it had CT plates, so it's not staying around. I'm starting to notice a number of Mazda6 sedans in my area, but no threes yet...guess I'm gonna be the only one for a while.

The problem is, Chevy keeps selling that stupid Cavalier for around 10k. But you can't buy one of those unless you're under 5'10"

backy

So what costs more to replace: the clutch or brake pads?

fowler3

The clutch costs more to replace. I had to replace the whole thing on a 1986 Accord and it had less than 40k miles on it -- $300 in 1990. Probably a LOT more these days, labor costs are higher.

What I was saying about protecting the brakes, I meant preventing grooves and wear on pads. You don't have to baby it, but drivers can extend the life of many parts by balancing the loads and stresses. Some owners can drive a car 140K miles with no major repairs; that doesn't mean everybody can. Depends on their driving habits.

Resting a foot on the clutch or brake pedal; fast starts and slamming on the brakes at the last minute take their tole. Why are you buying new cars? Because what you find on used car lots are abused cars. Very few good ones. A used car dealer told me he did not like Hondas because every one he took in trade had a bad MT and clutch. Wonder why? (He thought Honda made bad MTs.)

fowler3

fowler3

one more thing and then I will drop this topic.

The Mazda3 is a compact car, it's measurements are larger than the Protegés, but it looks smaller. It stands to reason that compact cars have smaller parts than medium size cars and larger ones. And mechanics have pointed this out to me in the past.

Manufacturers do not use the same parts in their compacts that they use in their larger cars. They do not have heavy-duty parts in them and drivers should allow for this.

This is why you see so many trashed compact cars out there. Their owners should have bought an SUV or a dump truck.

fowler3

backy

The only car I've owned from new that I had to replace the clutch pressure plate on was an '85 Civic--at about 40k miles. Hmmm... I had to replace the clutch on a '80 626, but that was a used car so who knows what abuse it had before I bought it.

solidsnake007

I will probably have to settle on a Mazda3i with automatic transmission, power & 16" alloy wheels, AC & Fog lights and maybe ABS or not. I drive a car without ABS and most cars out there don't have ABS, and I have never had a problem. I've slammed on the brakes a few times, and the brakes have never locked up. My trade if I decide to trade it in, is only worth about $300, it is old and ugly. But in good condition. Does the Mazda3 come with a security system of some sort? I plan to get my Mazda in July, maybe hoping for some type of discount by then.

creakid1

due to the tallest gearing.

creakid1

"Reliability? I'm not sure what you're looking for. But I own a 99 escort zx2(not nearly as well done as the focus) have 75K miles on it and have never - knock on wood- had a problem with it outside of regular tires, battery, brake wear.

I learned to drive stick in a then new 95 ford probe gt that I leased when I was in college."

'99 Escort ZX2, '95 Probe, they're all based on Mazda designs, Protege & 626 respectively. If you're looking at the newer Cougar, then that's based on the Euro-design Contour/Mystique. Then compare their reliability...

It's amazing, according to cars sold in Germany, the made-in-Germany Focus is the most reliable car in the world!

spatulaman

What I was saying about protecting the brakes, I meant preventing grooves and wear on pads. You don't have to baby it, but drivers can extend the life of many parts by balancing the loads and stresses.

You're extending the life of the brakes at the expense of the engine, transmission, and clutch. Where's the logic in that? Brakes are cheap, engines, transmissions and clutches are not.