BMW 3-Series 2006

ivan_99

If you “know” you will be driving in snow, particularly anything deep, I’d go with the xi. If you had the odd snow fall where it was a little icy or snowy I’d go with the exclusive RWD.

I believe the electronics can help you on slippery roads if you go with RWD…but it won’t help you if you’re IN the snow…xi

I’d go with dedicated snow tires on either configuration.

gone4aride

Thanks to all for your replies.

Shipo,

You mention that you live in NH. I am over in the Lake George/Glens Falls area so I suspect that our driving conditions are very much the same.

Knowing that you have (or had?) a RWD 330i with SP and assuming that you have driven it in the snow with winter tires/wheels, just how "sure footed" is it in these conditions?

I should have mentioned in my original post that we also have a 4Runner, so I am covered for weekend fun excursions. The 330 has to be worthy/safe enough in the snow to get me back and forth to the office (10 miles), as well as to the airport (50 miles on interstate).

s54

Would appreciate thoughts from the group: I am considering ordering a 330 Sport/Prem/Cold 6spd, but am wondering if anyone has heard when the earliest you could place an order for an 07 is.

Any ideas on new features in 07 would be great. (I searched on this and found some speculation about new engines, etc.)

Thx

Jim

kal

Anyone know what the current MF, resid Value is for a 2006 330Cci with 10K miles/yr? Thanks

pat

Try asking here: BMW 3-Series: Lease Questions.

shipo

"You mention that you live in NH. I am over in the Lake George/Glens Falls area so I suspect that our driving conditions are very much the same."

Yeah, we get your weather a couple of hours later. ;-)

As for my previous BMWs, I've had a 1999 328i non-SP with 205 section width All-Season tires (as opposed to the 225 All-Seasons that come on the 330i and 330xi), and a 2002 530i SP along with a set of 225 width winter tires (Michelin Arctic-Alpin, since replaced by the Michelin X-Ice in their lineup).

When I had the 328i I lived in New Jersey, which gets far less snow that we do up here, and the All-Season tires were barely able to do the job. Once I moved up here with the winter tire shod 530i, I discovered the joys of driving a truly capable RWD car in the snow. Our first winter up here we had 114" of snow in our local town and that car never missed a beat. In fact, with anything less than 8" on the ground (it kind of became a snow plow at 8" or more), I was easily able to reel in the ubiquitous SUVs that populate our local narrow, hilly and winding roads when the snow flies.

As if that wasn't enough, I managed to break my right leg half way through that winter and as such was unable to drive my 5er (kind of hard to manipulate the clutch, brake and gas with just the left foot), so my California born and raised wife (i.e. no experience driving a RWD car in the winter) used it to commute 65 miles per day for the remainder of the winter, and never once was she unable to get to or from work. Me, I got the old green minivan so that I could sling my cast over on the passenger side and drive left footed. By the time I was ready to cast off my cast, she was threatening to break my other leg. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

bdkinnh

I of course would never doubt your experience... I just can't wrap my mind around a RWD car performing well in NH snow (although this year it would have been fine).

My current car is AWD.... although I have a feeling my next one will be a RWD 5er. With a killer set of snow tires.

shipo

When I first put the tires on the 530i, the feeling was kind of uncanny as I couldn't get the back end to hang out like I could with the summer performance tires. :-( With the winter tires mounted I had to turn of the DSC and then really get after it to bring the back end around, however once I got the hang of it, it was great fun.

As for regular driving, I always kept the DSC fully engaged and regardless of how I drove, I barely ever got the car out of sorts, and usually that was on purpose. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

gordonwd

As for regular driving, I always kept the DSC fully engaged and regardless of how I drove,...

I find that it's a good idea to disengage the DSC on my E46 325i fairly often when I'm in the situation of being on a snowy side street or in a boulevard turnaround (common here in Michigan), pulling out onto a main road. If I'm trying to accelerate into a break in traffic and the rear wheels hit a slippery spot that makes the rear end start to slip, the DSC bogs the car down so much that I find myself with cars coming up behind me fast and the #@$% car isn't accelerating!

I find it's much better to turn of the DSC (not all the way -- just one press of the button), handle the momentary wheelspin, and then accelerate normally. At most other times I leave the DSC fully on.

shipo

Yeah, pulling out onto Woodward or Telegraph can be pretty hairy sometimes when the plows push snow into the turn around slots. I now live in an area that is much more rural than that (think Novi thirty years ago, or Rochester forty years ago), and as such I cannot remember the last time I drove on a Boulevard, hence the fact that I leave the DSC on full time. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

kyfdx

I hear that BMW just improved their MSD program...

Up to 7 extra deposits at .00007 each... for a total money factor reduction of .00049...

Not too bad!!

regards,
kyfdx
Host-Prices Paid Forums

Firebird_EOU

However if your original lease is $551 do you pay $600 for each MSD or $550?

kyfdx

$600... always rounded up to the next $50 increment...

Though... if the .00049 knocks your payment down by $35/mo., it might also put you below the next $50 level...

regards,
kyfdx

gordonwd

'06 BMW 3, now with 9000+ mi., I 've developed a rather severe and annoying rattle in the dash. It is seemingly behind the radio and glove bax.

Rattles in that area are often due to something in the airbag mechanism. Not an analysis, just a guess, but it will probably have to be sorted out by the dealer.

shipo

"Rattles in that area are often due to something in the airbag mechanism. Not an analysis, just a guess, but it will probably have to be sorted out by the dealer."

Interesting, my 530i developed a rattle in the area of the glove box at about 8,000 miles. Drove me nuts. Turned out to be knock off Mont Blanc pen rattling against a tire pressure gauge. Sure glad I didn't take it in and complain about the rattle.

Best Regards,
Shipo

ivan_99

Many years ago, on a non BMW, I had a rattle coming from the dash. I took it to the dealer and it turned out to be my aftermarket alarm siren vibrating against the hood.

The tech turned the bolt a quarter turn…and it was fixed. Felt like such a fool...

jagkid18

The On-Star on GM vehicles uses an analog cell phone type connection. I would make an assumption that the GPS signal might work better; but, I am no expert of that by any means. The only way I know about On-Star is in my monthly GMC magazine they had an article about the future issues of On-Star when america switches over to all digital signals. Good insurance is the only real awnser to car theives in my opinion. Aftermarket alarms are useless unless you get one with the pager device for your key fob that alerts you. That then brings up a personal safety issue if you want to interfer with the criminals.

dl7265

I'll revisit On-star another time. They are "NOT" cooperative with Police. The theory behind Lojack or on-star systems is to quickly recover the vehicle prior to being stripped and also to hopefully catch the thief operating the vehicle ( so they can be charged). The Issue with on-star is they will not tell the Officer the position of the vehicle because it has to be "verified " bla bla bla. Meanwhile your vehicle is long gone. If you value "remote unlocking feature" I suppose onstar is ok.

DL

corvette

I think the first-gen OnStar used analog signals, but the systems they're putting in cars now are some form of digital (TDMA/CDMA or GSM)...

blueguydotcom

Nice! This is really nice because I had an issue last friday with my dealer. I like my salesguy but he's fallen ill and passed my deal to a coworker. I feel like the dealership is now trying to pull a fast one on me.

1. They showed me lease numbers with the negotiated price as the msrp. I blew that out of the water.

2. Then they showed me the ED MF 0.0003 and a 0.0004 dealer add-on. Whoa, 4 points?!

We'll see if they come back with just 2 add-ons as I requested. I've been away on business, so I told them I'd call back today.

The 7 MSDs will be amusing too as they acted surprised that I wanted MSDs (Jim, my guy, knew this but he's not around).

nkeen

My original 325i order had the standard headlights. I was concerned I'd made the right decision and asked the dealer to let me drive both halogens and xenons on a country road after dark. The halogens are good, but the xenons are great -- better than the ones in my Acura TL I think. A blaze of white light on high beam -- removes the stress, constant searching through shadow, from fast night driving. A big factor is that the light is spread wide to the sides as well as ahead -- makes it easy to see unpainted center median curbs at left turn lane cut-ins, etc. For a driver with fair night vision this is a real plus. By the way, my dealer, Otto's BMW of West Chester, PA, has been great in allowing multiple test drives (sport v std, Xenon v halogen), and pricing has been fair. Highly recommended.
So now it is:
325i Alpine White; Black Leatherette with Poplar (yes, that stays); sport package; heated seats; xenon headlights; Sirius. I also plan to get a winter package with 205-55-16 Blizzak run flats from Tire Rack.

priggly

Can someone comment on the Bridgestone Turanza EL42 all-season RFT's on the 330i? The reviews on Tire Rack for this tire are uniformly bad, with comments to the effect that the noise on anything but buttery smooth road surfaces is distractingly and annoyingly high.

If the tires are in fact this bad it seems a shame to hobble an otherwise exemplary car in this manner. Was this Bangle's idea by any chance??!

How are people coping with this "feature?" Replacing the tires with conventional ones and carrying a spare in the trunk basically destroys the trunk as a place to carry luggage, does it not, not to mention the mess and aesthetic issues involved?

It appears to me BMW has chosen to include not-yet-perfected technology in the car, similar to the first year or two of the i-Drive with its electrical glitches in the 7 series, etc.

nkeen

My two cents:

They are touring tires but probably rate towards the performance end of the spectrum. They got a lot of bad press on the Acura TL discussion by owners who did not like the hard ride and the tendency to flat spot (tire deforms over night when left stationary and takes a few miles to round out again). I think this is a complaint with many performance tires. I own a TL at the moment with EL42s. I am quite impressed by their stickiness, but they can be a little rough when cold. I suspect that many of the complaints are from drivers who really should have bought an Avalon. Any all season tire is a compromise. The Potenzas on the 3 series sport package give a smoother ride, but they are a no compromise summer tire. Remember also that the run flat has a different sidewall composition than regular EL42s.

I think that run flats, unlike iDrive, are a great idea, especially with alloy wheels that can electrolytically bond to the steel hub, making them very hard to get off when changing flats. No good having a spare if you can't get the wheel off. More tire choices should become available in time.

shipo

"I think that run flats, unlike iDrive, are a great idea, especially with alloy wheels that can electrolytically bond to the steel hub, making them very hard to get off when changing flats. No good having a spare if you can't get the wheel off."

Geez, I'm thinking that you and I are on very opposite sides on these two issues. I think that the integration afforded by the iDrive system is simply the wave of the future and most probably somewhat overdue in terms of when it was released to the general public. Run-Flats on the other hand are at best a half baked idea given that most companies that use them do so at the expense of even a place to put a spare tire.

As for the electrolytic bond that you referred to, ummm, no offence, but how many decades does that take? I've been driving cars with alloy wheels for nearly thirty years and I've never had an alloy wheel stick. On the other hand, I've had plenty of cars where the idiots at the shop would put the lug nuts/bolts on with an impact wrench, thus rendering them all but unturnable by the cheap lug wrench that is provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

Back to the run-flat issue. I don't have a problem with the "option" of Run-Flats per-se, however, I still want a spare tire. The truth for me is that I often find myself driving in areas where replacing a high performance Run-Flat tire is likely to be a several day affair, and that single issue is enough to give me serious pause when considering a car like the new E90, in spite of the fact that I REALLY like the E90.

Best Regards,
Shipo

div2

I've been driving cars with alloy wheels for nearly thirty years and I've never had an alloy wheel stick.

Well, I had it happen on my E24 M6 as well as on my E39 528i. There is an easy cure: apply a thin coat of anti-seize paste prior to mounting the wheel.

I still want a spare tire.

Me too. That's the one thing about the new M Coupe that gives me pause-no spare or run-flats. Methinks I'll stick with my original choice-a vintage M1.

shipo

Hmmm, interesting. Thirty years ago, before I could afford a car with alloy wheels, I had cars with steel wheels that had rusted to the iron hub underneath. Back then I learned that if I spread a thin layer of wheel bearing grease over the areas that make contact, the problem was solved. I guess it just became habit because I still do it, the only difference is that I now use Phil Wood Waterproof Grease instead. ;-)

http://www.philwood.com/Price%20List/GreaseOil&HandCleaner.pdf

Best Regards,
Shipo

nkeen

Thanks for the hints. It happened to me some time after the dealer rotated the tires. They evidently had not used the grease. Road side assist used a massive undercar jack as a hammer to bang the wheel off from the inside.

As for the iDrive comments elsewhere, to be honest I'm speaking from ignorance, but why integrate what should not be integrated? The logic of installing a complex menu driven interface for someone whose attention is supposed to be taken by driving the vehicle escapes me. After all, how many basic functions are there? Radio, lights, wipers, heat&a/c. Everything else, and arguably the first, is fluff. Which takes me to the radio controls on modern, especially European, cars. What's needed are two big round knobs: one for on/off and volume; the other for contiguous tuning up and down the frequency or channel range. Add a function switch and station presets and you're set. Nothing I've seen on modern vehicles has improved on this basic approach, except, perhaps adding a few controls on the steering wheel to avoid having to reach down. (Notice where the iDrive controller is? Perhaps it falls readily to hand.) Every time I travel to the UK, I take a look at the radio in the Focus or Vectra, or whatever it happens to be, and go "What the....?"

And while I'm on the subject: Too bad the car isn't offered with manual a/c and cloth seats. I've never liked automatic climate control (I know better!) and cloth would save an additional $500 required to heat the cold, clammy vinyl or leather. The 528e a few years ago had great cloth -- classy looking, warm, held you in place.

Now the xenon headlights -- they are a real improvement over US market halogens.

venture

When I changed to snow shoes I sprayed white lithium grease on the hub before installing the wheels, and was planning to do the same next month when I reinstall the summer tires and wheels.

The can says "Protects against water and oxidation problems".

Am I on the right track here, or should I be using something else? :confuse:

shipo

"Am I on the right track here, or should I be using something else?"

Lithium grease will most certainly do the job. My using Phil Wood products is simply personal preference born from years of cycling. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

s54

Can't comment on the run-flat version, but I too had EL 42's on a TL (three sets w/i 20k miles, to be exact), and I can corroborate what you've heard about them.

I don't think I am the Avalon-buying type (yet), but the car was not right until Acura replaced them with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S'.

My experience with Bridgestone has left me with a sour taste and I would not buy them. FWIW.

S

laurasdada

'05 TL w/EL42 owner here. I've found these tires (non-RF) to be very poor in the snow, if that is a concern for you. When their natural life is over, I look forward to replacing them with another type. In the dry, they're OK (do flat-spot, I believe).

bryncerdd

Responding to message 5809, et. al. Personally, I am encouraged to read that others have serious reservations about run-flat tires. I have posted on this matter before, approaching BMW's decision from the stand point of economics. Here's another consideration, which is something of a domino effect. Performance cars have, in recent years, come equipped with staggered tires, i. e., wider tire on the rear than on the front, creating two different tread-widths on the car. That has created a problem in providing a spare tire; do you provide two spares, one for each axle, or just one, and hope it's the right size when an emergency arises? That last premise would be ridiculous. Therefore, logic seems to dictate a tire that will eliminate the need for a spare tire, thus the run-flats.

My wish to stay away from run-flats therefore dictates an examination of the system of staggered tire sizes. Perhaps if manufacturers, specifically BMW in this conversation, were to avoid staggered tires, using the same size tire on all four corners, we could return to the practice of "one-size-fits-all-wheels," return to conventional tires, supported by a spare--even a space-saver sare. So now I question whether wider tries on the rear are really necessary in a front-drive vehicle. The key word is "necessary;" I don't question that they would provide some advantageous traction.

For those proposing to carry a spare tire, even when the car has no space provided for one, I ask where and how would you plan to locate a jack under the car?

Ruminating on all this, I can recall no commentator on this message board who has expressed unreserved enthusiasm for run-flats. Should that not say something to BMW, and others? Do the manufacturers read these message boards? If not, they should!

Cheers,
Bryncerdd

shipo

My understanding is that BMW has in fact made allowances for a jack and even offer one as an aftermarket accessory.

I am also not fully enamored with staggered tires and would prefer the same size all of the way around. That having been said, I'd still prefer a staggered setup with a spare than a non-staggered/Run-Flat version. Why? Well, I could mount the spare in the event of a flat, continue on my way, and then have damaged tire either fixed or replaced. With the Run-Flat scenario my only option would be to continue on my way and then replace the then destroyed tire. No thanks. :P

Best Regards,
Shipo

abfisch

Buddy:

I live where you live near Ft. Drum, NY, 1/2 hour from the Canadian border. Although not mentioned above, yet another option is to do what I have done, albeit, I have heated garage space.

I drive an 02 Toyota Avalon with 4 snows on steel wheels in the winter and break out the BMW in April when the winter breaks. I bought a used 04 325ci SP from another soldier not too long ago.

Either one of your choices to drive up here in the winter would make me cry, if you are purchasing instead of leasing.

abfisch

bdr127

Good safety review for BMW and its new 3-series....

http://www.iihs.org/ratings/ratingsbyseries.aspx?id=458

nkeen

..but after driving both the standard 325i with EL42s and the SP with Potenzas, I was very impressed with the latter. The Potenzas give a smooth ride and stick. They do tram-line a bit, however. You have to stay on top of the car over irregular surfaces.

Spare storage availability aside, changing to non-run flats might be a risky move as the suspension will have been tuned to work with the stiff sidewalls of the run flats.

Surely the choices of RF tire brands will expand as time goes on?

shipo

"Spare storage availability aside, changing to non-run flats might be a risky move as the suspension will have been tuned to work with the stiff sidewalls of the run flats."

Unsprung weight is still unsprung weight no matter how you cut it. Replace the Run-Flats with Gets-Flat tires and you will reduce the unsprung weight and improve the ride, the responsiveness and the braking of the car.

Best Regards,
Shipo

nkeen

Not sure about that. Wouldn't the tires' stiffness have been figured into the spring and damping rate equation to give the overall desired ride and handling characteristics?

shipo

"Not sure about that. Wouldn't the tires' stiffness have been figured into the spring and damping rate equation to give the overall desired ride and handling characteristics?"

Yup, and by reducing the weight outside the rim the already basic goodness of the suspension gets even better. ;-)

Prediction: When folks start AutoXing their E90s, they'll yank the Run-Flats off as fast as they can and replace them with some good sticky Gets Flat tires.

Best Regards,
Shipo

dhanley

So, let's suppose you Just Don't Want(tm) runflats. What's the practical alternative?

Should one carry a can of fix-a-flat and a compressor?

In the past 15 years of driving, i've gotten 6 flats. None has ever been a blowout, though one was a tread peel at speed. That was the only one that required a replacement. the RF's seems like quite an expense, and a technology that's not ready yet, with the reports of fast wear, bubbling, noise, etc.

I suppose i could replace the rf's and sell them through CCA.

dave

shipo

"So, let's suppose you Just Don't Want(tm) runflats. What's the practical alternative?

Should one carry a can of fix-a-flat and a compressor?"

I believe that's what Mazda is doing with their new Miata. The MX-5 can be ordered with standard Gets Flat tires which includes a "Tire puncture repair kit" and no spare tire OR Run Flat Tires & Tire Pressure Monitor for an extra $515 (also with no spare tire).

What is interesting to note here is that while Mazda has clearly engineered their suspension to be able to run with Run-Flat tires, their "Club Sport" version, specifically offered for the weekend racer, is only available with "Gets Flat" tires.

Best Regards,
Shipo

thehuac

Hello everybody. I have a 2006 330i w/sport pkg. The vehicle has 6,000 miles and I noticed the other day that the front driver side tire had a big bubble on it. Does anyone know if this is covered under my new car warranty? If so do I need to deal with the dealership where I purchased the vehicle or is their a certain number that I must call that handles this situation. Thanks for the help.

no_exit

The tire damage is not covered under the standard BMW warranty. However, if you purchased the tire protection package, then you will be covered. That tire is shot and needs to be replaced a.s.a.p.

thehuac

Can any tire shop change the tire on my car or does it need to go to a BMW Authorized dealer?

shipo

Hmmm, I've been hearing more and more reports of tire and wheel damage to late model cars with 18" and larger wheels. Personally I don't find that at all surprising. When I got my 2002 530i SP it came with 235/45 R17 tires and any number of folks I knew informed me that I was being dumb/stupid/cheap/too conservative with my car because I didn't immediately run out and buy a set of 18s or even 19s for it. In fact, I went the other way and bought a set of 16s for its winter shoes.

Speaking strictly for myself, if I was to opt for a new 330i SP, I would almost immediately shop around for a set of 17" wheels for it and mount the same size Gets Flat rubber that I had on the 530i.

Consider the following overall wheel diameters, sidewall heights and tread width:

Tire Spec ------ Dia. ---- Side --- Width --- Car/Axle
225/45 R17 -- 25.00" -- 3.99" -- 08.86" -- 2006 330i non-SP/Both
225/40 R18 -- 25.09" -- 3.54" -- 08.86" -- 2006 330i SP/Front
255/35 R18 -- 25.03" -- 3.51" -- 10.04" -- 2006 330i SP/Rear
235/45 R17 -- 25.33" -- 4.16" -- 09.25" -- 2002 530i SP/Both

True, tires in the size from my old 5er would be 1.2% larger in diameter (meaning that you'd be going 1.2% faster at any given RPM) but that's still within the built in BMW Speedometer error.

With this type of a change, the absolute limit of adhesion would of course suffer a tad on the rear end of the car and be enhance a tad on the front end, thus allowing the driver to hang the tail out easier (induced oversteer), which isn't a bad thing in my mind, especially considering said limits would still be WAY WAY beyond what can legally be done on the surface streets. A change like this would also greatly enhance tire life as you would have an extra six tenths of an inch of sidewall to absorb a hit, and you'd be able to rotate the tires front to back.

Food for thought.

Best Regards,
Shipo

lovemyclk

Would recommend a high-performance wheel and tire shop that also does high-speed on car balancing due to your SP option. The BMW suspension setup benefits from having an ideal state of balance for the wheel/tire/suspension combo. My 530SP benefits from having experts handle the balancing, which is important when you have a car like this. Also am using pure nitrogen gas vs. p.o.a. (plain old air), which is not as susceptible to temperature changes that affect tire pressure.

This is all predicated on what you learn regarding a tire warranty. Few dealers perform the on car balancing from what I've learned.

rayainsw

Cross Post - since there has been no response on the "Future" Board:

I see a couple of posts here - from quite some time ago, but I have recently seen reported a couple of places now that BMW will release a 300+ HP Twin Turbocharged version of their straight six in (at least) the 3 Series Coupe for 2007.

Confirmation, anyone?

In the Sedan as well, for example?

Thanks,
- Ray
Interested . . .

dl7265

Exactally, what I did with my 325i. Purchased a set of 330i Base 17" non staggered all the way around. 10 months and 11K miles and no isues. Not to mention that the ride actually improved. And I picked them up for a song.

DL

dudecat

Trying to get a sense from xi owners regarding real world driving experiences in inclement winter weather.

Was told by the salesperson that the xi is actually rear-wheel drive. The all-wheel only kicks in when necessary. Got a little put off by that, and has me thinking twice.

I know it is a totally different vehicle, but I had a Pathfinder that had an “auto” setting. Per the owner’s manual, the vehicle will switch from rear wheel to an infinite combination of 4 wheel, to compensate for driving conditions. Sure as hell did not feel like it, which has me a little gun shy with the xi. Had a 1990 Saab 93 years ago, and that puppy felt like it had velcro tires during winter.

Would anyone who has lived with their xi for a while now, like to share their real world winter driving experiences in inclement weather. I live in Massachusetts, so we get a fair amount of snow, ice, rain, you name it……. we have it. Not interested in doing the tire swap thing I had read in some earlier posts. Any info to put my mind at ease, esp. since the xi is for my wife, would be greatly appreciated.

Also, apologies if this has been answered somewhere else.

Firebird_EOU

http://www.bmwusa.com/bmwexperience/BmwInDepth/BMWTechnology/Handling.htm?id=14

It's not going to be a problem.