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It notes the Chrysler tech center wherein case-based problems are handled. My CRD was just entered as part of the cases that are circulated within their database. If anyone can find a way to tap into this proprietary resource, I think we might find predictive maintenance tips or in the least troubleshooting information when we do have issues. The info is available to any bona fide dealer only, but friends in the right places can circumvent this pillar.
Shop manuals are available at www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com. Just type "Liberty" into the Keyword text box and you'll be presented with the purchase options. This also happens to be the same portal through which all dealer shops access their manuals using SSL and their Chrysler Dealer #.
Hope this info helps at least a few who are interested in resolving problems with our CRDs. Knowledge is enabling.
Jones
There are few crank/piston-serviced engines that perform as well as fresh-from-the-factory versions. Honda Corp, for example, blue prints and balances their new engines, which is the reason among many for their engines' longevity. I recommend that you ensure the dealer takes the time to 3-space weigh the piston/rods to ensure their weights and center of mass are identical to within 10ths of a gram and millimeters, respectively. Don't let them cut corners and just install a raw piston/rod without grinding down the balance pads for a solid match. Wtih the high tolerances in these diesel engines, such is imperative. Additionally, only a highly trained diesel technician should be doing this in the first place.
Hey...it's your money, your time, and you care. To them, your CRD is another one to push out the door.
Goodcrd, any other advice along these lines?
Jones
VM Motori has a very good reputation in the EU. This engine is sleeved so they will probably replace those along with what ever needs to be done.
I apologize for the doom/gloom. I usually state things from the worst-case perspective and am rarely dissapointed from that vantage point.
I should have stated in the previous post, that if done correctly, your engine should perform flawlessly for years; and I pointed out the major aspects of which to be aware. When shops fail to balance the compressive, linear components (really from the top of the piston to the main bearings of the crank), the engines usually do not endure the increased, non-uniform strains over time. And, so few rebuilders take the extra time to measure with calibrated scales. Hopefully you can discuss this with your chosen shop and obtain clarity regarding their standard engine rebuild procedure.
Jones
I read a few posts back that you and Caribou wondered what happened to me...this is a very busy time of year and I only get to sit down and read/reply to the post about 1-2 times per week at this point.
On your easily accessible 5Qt Wally World 5W-40. May I ask what region/state do you live in? My local WW (central Indiana) just clearance out their last 10-1Qt containers of 5W-40 M1 (I bought them) and I have never seen the 5Qt jug full of the stuff. The other two WW's I've checked in the area are no longer carrying 5W-40 M1 in either the 5 or 1 Qt quantities. They now carry 0W-20 (Hybrid), 5W-30 (several types inlcuding the 5 Qt), 5W-20, 0W-40, 10W-30 & 10W-40. The -20,-30, & -40 have different varieties in the 5 Qt (including a 5W-30 SUV) but the 0W-30 only comes in the 1Qt singles.
Not that I'm asking everyone to rush to WW, but I am curious if anyone has noticed that 5W-40 SUV in the 5 Qt jug is Nevermore?
Boiler
Biodiesel for Real (Strategies for Smart Car Buyers)
Steve, Host
As for me, I occaisionally get into places and pull things that would destroy the RAV4. Like others have said, I did not buy the Liberty based upon your assumptions.
BTW, my wife would rather have the Liberty. She thinks that RAV is ugly :P
So there, go flame in another forum or return Oprah's call... :surprise:
Boiler
I'm not flaming, see their vehicle line up and I think that you will see what I mean when you consider the styling cues and squared shoulders.
I also noted the "world engine" in the Patriot.
Curious on what you all think.
Boiler
Say bye bye to Jeep heritage with the Patriot.
Jones
This was about Feb 20th. I called the Walmart in Osage Beach, Mo and they still had it in mid March. I changed my mind about letting them change it and took it to the dealer. I asked if they carried the 0-40w and they could not even order it. Whats even more odd is O'Reilly Auto Parts carries the 0-40 in stock but can't get the 5-40.
Last week I bought the last 3 qts of the $1.49 Mobil 5-30w oil for our Neon last week. They have changed to cover and it's not extended 5-30w for $2.49. The label change most likely cost a lot more, don't ya know?
Anything is likely when a auto parts can make more profit by getting rid of the best buy for consumers. I hope this is not the case, but I try to check it out again next time I am in WM.
Farout
When I see one and maybe test drive them I will know for sure. 1st year cars can be a little problematic.
So time will tell.
Farout
This reminds me of the auto-compatible Stirling engine that NASA successfully built in the 70s (I believe it was NASA). This engine functions on the Carnot Cycle used in heat pumps, and when applied to pistonic-based engine becomes an external combustion engine. Even today's peltier devices operate on this concept except via acoustics and very effectively. I'd love to get my hands on a Stirling engine and burn whatever would in the incinerator. Efficiency is fairly high--like the 2-stroke diesels found in locomotives, but torque is generally limited.
Alas, the Stirling engine fell into obscurity with the petrol lobbying in the 70's and 80's. The same kind of thing happened to mass transit via railways--the detroit diesel-based bus killed the train. Both deaths were the result of oil moguls sweeping viable alternatives under the rug.
Here are links discussing the general concepts. http://www.stirlingengine.com/. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stirling_engine
Jones
Boiler "
Also in central Indiana and I have rarely seen the Mobile One 5w-40, but WW carries the gallon jugs of Shell Rotella T 5w-40 Synthetic rated at the highest rating of "CI-4 Plus" for diesel engines. I have used this oil since 1746 on the ODO and will continue to do so as my oil consumption stopped, no more oil sweats on the outside of the intercooler hoses near the turbo.
Shell has a long history of service to the diesel industry, give it a try.
DO NOT BUY THESE VEHICLES...they are not supported or backed up by DC! I have called DC and they are no help whatsoever. They apologize and give you a case number without any follow-up.
DO NOT WASTE YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY...DC doesn't care nor does the Dealer whether you're happy or not!!!
I will give more details and Dealerships names if interested.
Right now, my brand-new CRD is being torn down by a gas trained tech who has never ever worked on a CRD!!! NO one seems to see that as a problem!
I live in Oregon...and called around to the Dealerships...None of the techs have been trained!
Seems I can't do anything until I take it back to the Dealer multiple times (2-3 week durations in the shop) and build a case for a Chrysler buy-back.
If your considering this vehicle buy a VW...they will replace the engine instead of letting a non-trained tech tear down the engine and make guesses.
Did either of you receive a firmware update as a result of TSB Number: 18-008-06? The firmware change specified therein states an improvement is made to the durability of the glow plugs. Please advise.
I'm guessing a huge push was made by DCX to minimize the disparities between gas and diesel engine operation where, for diesels, glow plug warm up of 5 to 10 seconds was just "too much" for the consumer. So, they push an enormous amount of current through the ceramic element triggered by the driver door's opening to get the tips of the plugs to temp. This causes an alarmingly high materials flexure (and fissures in the material) and reduces the mean time between failures of the part. This can only be fixed by moving to a higher ratio of tungsten to ceramic ($$$$) in the element or by reducing the current through the device (which is what the TSB may have done to some degree). I'd be glad to wait 5 seconds at the beginning of every trip if it means I won't have my engine cracked for service because of a shattered glow plug.
If you did get the update as did I, then I'll be sure to pull the plugs at 3.5k miles and physically compare them to a new one for the shop boss at the service desk subsequently demanding an all-around replacement. I should then repeat the glow plug rampage every 3.5k miles. Sound reasonable?
Jones
Now if I could only get my SIRIUS activated! DC recorded/reported the wrong ESN for my radio. It has been 8 days and still no activation. :mad:
completely stonewalled...a major part of my fustration
This is the first time the tech has ever dismantled a Diesel engine!
I have to wonder with the Liberty and Patriot being so close in size, if there is room for both in Jeeps line-up. I believe the Patriot might take away Liberty buyers who don’t do any off road driving and off road people will shun the Patriot. And from me, the same litany of desires: No diesel, no sale. And put a diesel in both the 2WD and 4WD versions.
I had to re-up mine the other day and put in the wrong ESN as the receiver was changed due to a TSB and I had forgot.
They were very helpful.
Just got our new CRD a couple weeks ago and now have about 1,200 miles on it. I've been checking mileage and find a difference between the MPG reported by the EVIC and that which I calculate the old fashioned way. I have filled up three times now and have recorded and reset the MPG each time. I have also recorded the mileage from the previous fill and gallons each time. Here are the results:
EVIC -- Calculated(miles / gals)
22.7 -- 24.12
24.2 -- 22.5
25.0 -- 22.8
The owners manual sez that "... shows the average fuel economy in miles per gallon since the last reset." but it does not seem to. I also notice that MPG will change rapidly when pulling up or coasting down a mountain. This make me think that the calculation is weighted to the most recent few miles.
Anyone have an idea about this?
I'enjoying all the good info you all put out in this forum. Thanks
Personally, I can't believe they want to rebuild an engine rather than replace it! Come to think of it..I wonder if VM Morti (how ever its spelled) knows about this. Or do they just care about selling and not their rep. for blown engines!
We pay alot of money for these vehicles and I know DC wants to "push" Diesels instead of the gas-electric strategy. So, here is there opportunity to grab this problem by the "horns" and wrestle it to the ground. At least call me and some some stinking interest in my satisfaction! Instead of hiding and pretending they don't have major problems at the factory!
I have never seen or heard of any new car with a blown engine. Neither has the twenty year veteran Sales Manager. If their only selling ~10,000 CRD's and one failure is way, way too many!! I'll bet there failure rate is higher than one in 10,000!
Thanks again for replying...it does mean alot to me
I don't think your cardboard matters much for such a short time. The book seemed concerned about fooling sensors and coming up with wrong conclusions. It's got to help for warm ups. I'll try to find it and give you a less vague answer.
Alaska pays the same 660.00 along with an additional 2500.00 dealer 'gotcha' markup. That's about what they figure it will cost you to fly out and drive one back. The same guy owns all the dealers and brands available locally so he's got the "gotcha" game down pretty good. I couldn't even get the salesman to take my check for a CRD that didn't have the options I wanted priced as if it did have all the options I wanted. Customer satisfaction doesn't need to be very important around here.
I fish for red salmon. Veggies for king crab is a pretty good trade both ways. See any Skyraiders in your navy days?
Turblediesel
It's not an overly complex unit, and without the volumetric cohabitation, it doesn't appear that a single puncture on either upper or lower half would cause a mixture of fluids. Additionally, the heat exacted by the compressed R-134a shouldn't excessively warm the transmission fluid while both systems operate in hot weather under towing duress.
I feel so much better...I was worried that it was something serious!
The Dealer is calling Chrysler to find whether they can get short or long block for a replacement!!! Why this this even a consideration...what about a stinking new engine! It is a brand-new Jeep and obviously came from the factory this way.
Stuck in Oregon! - Buyer beware!
I have a 2000 GC Quadra V8 with leather seats. I've noted the proclivity of the driver or passenger to enter each side of the vehicle in a cantilever fashion--pressing his/her buttox onto the outer edge of the seat cushion and ducking his/her head. This is followed by a lateral sliding into position. After 6 years and (oh my....2006 is already here) 100k miles, the wear pattern on the leather including the spider-web creases corroborates this entry procedure.
So when I got the Liberty, I noticed an even more pronounced exertion on the outer edge of both front seats. This will undoubtedly break down the foam that forms the outer edge of each seat as well as the coth material. I'm betting that the subtle bucket likeness of the seat pan will slowly transform into a doorward slide as time goes on.
So I bought the Jeep "wet suit" seat covers and installed them, yesterday. Here are the pros-cons as I see them thus far:
Pros:
1) near-perfect glove-fit on the seats
2) black color with pleasing aesthetics, raised stitching, and the Jeep emblem embossed just below the head rests
3) front and rear seat coverage including all head rests
4) smooth, wet suit material is very durable by design and easy to clean ensuring very little moisture/liquid penetration into the seat material beneath
Cons:
1) Black is hot in Summertime
2) Because the material is neoprene-backed, it does not pass moisture at any rate. Your clothing that touches the seat cover, then, becomes the conduit for moisture release. Prepare to sweat in warm weather.
3) Unless neoprene has been drastically improved in recent years, it has a tendency to outgas over time which increases with rising temperature. The outgassing results in a slow release of molecular particulate which stains all material in contact with the rubber. The staining can only be released by xylol and hotter chemicals on the petrol stack, which is too hot for the seat cushioning and cloth beneath. In short, I expect to see the seats stained deep brown where the covers touched with an increased gradient in those areas where the fit was the tightest and pressure was highest.
4) pricey at $300 for the set
5) time consuming to install as each cover must be massaged into place. The neoprene is extra tacky, which is a good thing once the cover is in place, but is the pits while installing.
Just thought I'd share the experience thus far.
Jones
The long block is a new engine. Even a short block comes with the entire block assembled sans the head. Both of these options are stellar for you as nothing must be done to the internals of the engine. They'll have to replace (with new parts) oil pan/head/head cover/plenum seals, timing belt, glow plugs; re-attach (existing, undamaged) oil pan, valve cover, functional glow plugs, plenum, fuel rail, undamaged injectors, timing gears and all coolant hoses. I'm not sure what they plan to do with your current head, but if it's not pitted or cracked and the valves still seal, then there's no need for a long block.
You got a lucky break. I'd be ecstatic in your position with either the short or long block replacement since it means the factory fit of the pistons/bearings will be ensured.
Jones