By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Destination LE. Got a set for $110 each including mounting, balancing and tax. Took my old tires to the local fix-o-flat used tire store and got $5 for each of the old tires. They were in good shape even if they were worthless.
The difference in handling, wet and dry, is absolutely unbelievable. The liberty sits a bit higher and corners and accelerates so much better. The tread looks like it would do well off road as well. The tire is rated near the top at tire rack but the firestone store was close enough on price with install and lifetime rotation/balance to swing me to them.
My good diesel Tech went with Carmax used lot dealership, so I don't have a diesel tech any more, I have to find one. I think that you still have a gas Jeep Liberty maybe you still have the Carmax care plan. How is your new Jeep doing, talk to me...
Nescosmo....
My wife's comment was: Jeep makes ordinary cars now
She's been spoiled by the Liberty :shades:
We traded in the 2006 Liberty and the Compass in on a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD. The Pacifica gets better mpg than the Compass!!!!! 24.3 mpg on the open road and 20 to 22 in the local area. It rides like glass, and the quality is what we have been looking for. The BEST part is the LIFETIME WARRANTY! Even the Chrysler Service Contract is a LIFETIME as well. We got both. Heck if Chrysler LLC is willing to stick behind their vehicles like this I won't have to buy another vehicle!
The LIFETIME WARRANTY does not cover diesels, that is not real good.
Any rate, I thought I would drop in and bring ya up to date.
farout
I hope you get the Buy Back you need, best to you.
farout
The report states there is no visible sign of wear that could affect safety and the exhaust opacity measurement wasn't sufficient to give a reading above the background noise of the instrument!
I guess this has something to do with my ORM. The previous diesel car had it's EGR valve working
I was all set to try and get a Grand Cherokee or maybe a Durango/Aspen in trade, but then I picked up a copy of Consumer Reports auto issue and it seems the Chrysler products I'm interested in have bad, bad reliability records - worse than the Liberty, which actually scores ok. So now I'm less keen on anything requiring me to get another Chrysler product as a replacement.
The lifetime warranty is a positive thing, but notice that it only applies to gasoline engine vehicles? Interesting. Also, my biggest worry right now is EGR valve failures, which aren't covered by the 7/70 powertrain on my 2005. I mentioned this to the dealer manager and he said that Chrysler considers them to be a routine wear/maintenance item. He didn't defend that, but didn't say anything to reassure me on it either. I'm not willing to pay however many $hundreds it will be to replace the EGR every 20-30k miles. I know most people would just disable it but I don't want to take that route.
I now live 23 miles from the selling dealer instead of the 3 miles when I bought it, and I just don't have time to deal with problems. My wife suggests trying a closer Jeep dealer (there is one) but I don't know if they ever sold a CRD or would know how to work on it. I also don't know if they will want to help out someone who didn't buy there. My wife also noted that some of my lengthy time in the shop has been when the dealership broke something by accident or discovered more problems than they had parts for. I hadn't realized this before, but she is partly right, and it makes me wonder if my dealership, despite being nice most of the time, isn't real competent at fixing stuff.
If I had a common drivetrain I would try the local dealer or even just use non-dealer mechanics after the warranty period, but without being totally in love with the CRD I don't think I want to take the risk. I'm also reminded of when I had a problem in Colorado last year and the nearest Jeep dealer said they wouldn't even look at my CRD.
So, basically, I'm going to see if something wonderful turns up from my dealer and/or Chrysler. If not, I'll just trade or sell my CRD for whatever I can get, buy something better and more common from another brand, and treat it as my last dealing with Chrysler.
I did an oil change this afternoon, and found that the replacement drain plug the dealer installed when the OEM plug was stripped is (a) so huge I don't have a fixed wrench that fits it, (b) was so tight I couldn't budge it with a 15" crescent wrench, though my brother in law got it with two hands effort, and (c) mysteriously missing the copper washer that went between the OEM drain plug and the oil pan. I'm not sure if my dealer installed something that was a hack (and they charged me like $10 for it) or if Chrysler established this non-OEM replacement because the OEM design didn't work well. Either way, I'm not impressed that a Jeep dealer didn't replace a drain plug with the OEM version.
I should also mention that the last dealer oil change cost around $125 and they put in too much oil (8 quarts instead of 6.4) and initially defended that as the right quantity until the service manager said I was right, looked it up and confirmed I was right. The oil tech and service writer both seemed stunned to discover 6.4 is the right amount, so you can bet other CRDs serviced there have been getting 8.0. The writer even said he put a note on my file to only put in 6.4 quarts - stupid since that is precisely what the manual written by Chrysler states! They only charged me for 6 quarts, but left 8 in the engine, which didn't seem to hurt it but also doesn't seem like a good idea. The oil itself was charged at $12.75 EACH QUART which seems insane to me; local Autozone has the exact same Mobil 1 0W-40 for $6.19 a quart (though I am using Rotella-T 5W-40 at home since it is both cheaper and seemingly better as a CI-4+ oil). After this experience I don't see why I would take it to the dealer for any future oil changes or any other maintenance that can be done by me or an independent shop. But, again, I don't have lots of free time and I really should have a vehicle where I can pay $20-30 for an oil change at a quick lube if I'm rushed, not be stuck with only the dealer and leaving my Jeep for hours to have a simple oil change done.
nescosmo.
I have had 13 Chrysler vehicles in my lifetime and Chrysler has treated me VERY WELL! However, even our 06 Liberty 3.7 had it's share of problems. I doubt I would ever own a Jeep again, they are too rough a ride and I really don not need that heavy duty of a vehicle.
We are very pleased with the Pacifica. The mpg are 24= on the highway, and 22 in town. So for a SUV and the extra convienses it is just what we need, and are blessed to have.
We bought the MAX CARE LIFETIME SERVICE CONTRACT, and with the LIFETIME POWERTRAIN WARRANTY we feel this is a great vehicle for us.
Hope things turn for the better.
farout
I have had 13 Chrysler vehicles in my lifetime and Chrysler has treated me VERY WELL! However, even our 06 Liberty 3.7 had it's share of problems. I doubt I would ever own a Jeep again, they are too rough a ride and I really don not need that heavy duty of a vehicle.
We are very pleased with the Pacifica. The mpg are 24= on the highway, and 22 in town. So for a SUV and the extra convienses it is just what we need, and are blessed to have.
We bought the MAX CARE LIFETIME SERVICE CONTRACT, and with the LIFETIME POWERTRAIN WARRANTY we feel this is a great vehicle for us.
Hope things turn for the better.
farout
Steve
I will be taking the little beast back to the dealer on Monday (after reconnecting the MAF), and I imagine I will get the same treatment - "We put in an EGR valve - it's fine now." The FACT is there is an unresolved issue, this "band-aid" approach will not cure it, Dcx REFUSES to admit a problem, and the dealer is stuck, thus so are we, the owners. After the emissions warranty expires (36K miles) we will be left to replace these overpriced boat anchors on our own, in my case, about every 8000 miles the EGR valve "goes bad." We all know this is not a bad "lot" of EGR valves. There is a PROBLEM. I believe it to be software related, however, I am not a software guy. But I am an electrician, and whenever the automation doesn't work, and the wiring has been verified, it is ALWAYS the software, or at worst, the wrong combination of pieces and parts, as specified by the engineer. It seems to me that the CRD is belching so much crud out the exhaust side, that the return path is constantly contaminated beyond the design limits of the parts installed to deal with them. Therefore, IMO, there would be both issues mentioned above - the software governing engine management, and the selection of parts to deal with the engine exhaust. What to do in this pickle is our dillema - give it back, live with the headache, or "only drive off road." There are literally thousands of diesel pickups with computers and emissions systems that have been successfully modified for huge increases in power and mileage. Do they have higher emissions? I don't know. I do know there is a very large, helpful, and friendly community of diesel owners, beyond our little SUVs. Every last one of them has said to me to hold on to this thing, that with a little patience, and a few mods, it WILL last a very long time. I believe they are correct. So much so that I bought a 1983 Ford Ranger with a Mazda 2.2L diesel in it, and I run it on pure used vegetable oil, with no modifications at all. I won't be doing this with the Libby anytime soon, but it has become my little guinea pig for diesel mods, and my diesel truck owning friends are all right behind on my experiments. BTW - there are a couple of companies that modify Libbys to run on WVO - one is in California (Lovecraft) and the other is in Germany (Elsbett). Only time will tell where this all goes, but with the end of my emissions warranty in only 10,000 miles, I expect to keep my Libby, and walk a slightly different path. I apologize to those of you who hate long posts.
Steve
When I get some money next stop is inmotionusa, TC and Shifter replacement.
Nescosmo.....
I have an appointment with the dealer Monday for them to again look at the various unresolved driveability issues. I'm still trying to get a buy-back but not really betting on it. If nothing good happens I'm going to just replace it ASAP with another brand of vehicle. Still debating whether I'm going to then hire a :lemon: lawyer to try and get some money out of Chrysler. I am surprised that there isn't yet a class action regarding the CRD problems.
I've been driving "off road" for more than 2 years and I simply forgot to reconnect the EGR valve. I wonder if I should :confuse:
Good addition to the Healing Hazy Headlamps Guide!
This is the German spec:
http://www.swiss-composite.ch/pdf/t-acryfix.pdf
I think this company is established in the US and sells the Acrifix A-190 adhesive:
http://www.palram.com/Media/Uploads/Adhesives&Sealants-Polycarbonate.pdf
I just ignored it.
As to the alternator issue, mine failed around 80000. The bearings went bad and it was $525 installed.
I am not sure what is so special about a part that has been around since the 1960's.
If you forget about the dealer and go to the off road dimension the vehicles will bring you sanaty and trust.
36k limit is the ghost of a lots of owners.
The oil after two changes, one at 3k and the other at 4k with a good oil filter, it look like the gases oil, no black soot. So far the 5w-40 is a great choice and if you like to go lemon go ahead, but i think is a mistake for you. If you follow the rules of the CRD, like all of us you will be ok...
Nescosmo.....
Nescosmo....
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Caribou's_fix.wmv
I am not sure what is so special about a part that has been around since the 1960's."
The pulley on this alternator is not the same solid type your thinking about. Take the drive belt off and spin it by hand in both directions. You will find it acts like a syntrifical clutch in one direction. They ware out and start to slip internally causing the alternator not to charge properly. The mechanics at the dealers call it a wobbling alternator pulley. They have to replace the entire alternator. And as for the bearings in these things. They can be replaced by a alternator rebuild shop for about $50.00.
If they have put some sort of clutch mechanism on it they have complicated a unit that does not need it.
For 10x the price, I would take a unit that might cost me a little mileage.
I have a question....what benefit is this clutched alternator supposed to have? If it has a centrifugal clutch, then it will always be engaged when the engine is running, just like any alternator. What advantage is this supposed to have?
Twocycle2
Curious to find out for sure what it is and does.
The pulley has a one-way clutch! :surprise: It grabs in the direction of rotation and slips in the other direction. When the engine is shut off the pulley stops very quickly and the alternator rotates on a little. Is the purpose to relieve impact torque on the alternator or keep the belt from jumping? :confuse: The other pulleys are big and probably more immune to impulse torque. Whaddyathink?
http://www.hcdk.com/images/common/pdf/Technical_No1_UK.pdf