Yes I loved it! Only after my local tow truck driver knew me by name and my 5 star dealer said they would do a buy back if DCX would not because they did not have room to store it anymore and the cummins tech refused to touch it again. I could not find a suitable replacement for it until the Grand Cherokee Diesel (M-Benz) came out. Now I like it just fine with its highly cleaned exhaust. I will always have a soft spot for the clatter of the liberty. Over agitated by this forum? I think not! Try having yourself repeatedly stranded in the cold and heat even while fleeing a huricane with my boat and have it just quit nine separate times for 44 days out of service in 15 months. My new Jeep diesel has been great so far towing 6350 lbs in 100+ heat @ 65 mph for 1750 miles with best mpg at 21.1 and worst 17.8 in the mountains. My hemi p/u got 11 on the same trip. Libby had gotten 25.9 on same trip minus about 1500 lbs of people. NO DIZINESS!!! DC DID THE POOCH ON THE LIBBY CRD
After slipping and sliding on my original goodyear eagles for 20k, decided to swap out the rubber before winter. Spent a week or two on line and in stores checking out all the ratings and prices. Finally zeroed in on the firestone Destination LE. Got a set for $110 each including mounting, balancing and tax. Took my old tires to the local fix-o-flat used tire store and got $5 for each of the old tires. They were in good shape even if they were worthless. The difference in handling, wet and dry, is absolutely unbelievable. The liberty sits a bit higher and corners and accelerates so much better. The tread looks like it would do well off road as well. The tire is rated near the top at tire rack but the firestone store was close enough on price with install and lifetime rotation/balance to swing me to them.
Headed out yesterday with the head lights on and after a half mile noticed that the radio was dead – no sound, no display. Also, the transmission was shifting like a new driver learning how to drive a stick. After the sun came up I turned the headlights off. The radio came on and the transmission began shifting normally for the rest of the 350 mile trip – mileage 30.5 mpg. Turned the headlights on and off several times with no more affect on the radio.
I have had the Goodyear Silent Armor tires on since November, 2006. I found that any tire noise was negligible. The appear to ride well. And I like the fact that they are puncture resistant and rated for offroad. I wanted to do some offroading on farmland. I replaced with the same size as original equipment.
05CRD.... I took it for a ride today to the cost to see the big tide and the acceleration with this tires are superb, is not as smooth as the stock tires, you fill the road but is very positive, turn very fast, it is a great tire, i love it. Make SURE that they are made in USA they install one made in Argentina and the side wall bubble up.
Farout... I do not know if you know that Carmax here in fla. sold the dealership to somebody else. My good diesel Tech went with Carmax used lot dealership, so I don't have a diesel tech any more, I have to find one. I think that you still have a gas Jeep Liberty maybe you still have the Carmax care plan. How is your new Jeep doing, talk to me...
Pttrillium, yesterday we saw a Jeep Compass CRD maneuvering in a hay field used for a 'one-day' parking. We had time to observe the vehicle during parking tentatives... and listen to the sound coming from it's engine. Every time the reverse gear was engaged, it cracked. My wife's comment was: Jeep makes ordinary cars now
nescosmo: See I do read the CRD forum every once and a while! I am not sure if you mean that I would buy a foriegn vehicle or not? But I can tell you I am 100% for buying vehicles made in either the US or Canada. I can say that the Compass we got for the Buy Back was a basic 22 mpg vehicle and the engine was not very up to the power that 3,300 lbs needs. It was pretty comfortable, but EVERYTHING was PLASTIC. The quality just needs some major improvement. We traded in the 2006 Liberty and the Compass in on a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD. The Pacifica gets better mpg than the Compass!!!!! 24.3 mpg on the open road and 20 to 22 in the local area. It rides like glass, and the quality is what we have been looking for. The BEST part is the LIFETIME WARRANTY! Even the Chrysler Service Contract is a LIFETIME as well. We got both. Heck if Chrysler LLC is willing to stick behind their vehicles like this I won't have to buy another vehicle! The LIFETIME WARRANTY does not cover diesels, that is not real good. Any rate, I thought I would drop in and bring ya up to date.
zachinmi: Hey guy! You need to look closer at the LIFETIME WARRANTY Chrysler LLC now has! We traded our Compass and our 2006 gs Liberty in on a Chrysler Pacifica touring AWD. We are so pleased with it! We came the conclusion that the only vehicle we needed was an AWD after driving the Compass. So we felt the AWD Pacifica was a great vehicle for what we wanted and fit our needs. The mpg are better than the Compass, whic really seems odd to us. Chrysler has been very good to us and I feel good about the New Chrysler LLC. I hope you get the Buy Back you need, best to you.
Yesterday I took the CRD to it's first emissions & safety inspection. I've had it for 4 years and drove 65,000 trouble free miles. The report states there is no visible sign of wear that could affect safety and the exhaust opacity measurement wasn't sufficient to give a reading above the background noise of the instrument!
I guess this has something to do with my ORM. The previous diesel car had it's EGR valve working and I had driven for one hour just before doing the test.
Farout.... Went today to the new dealer that I found to replaced the fuel filter housing, (it was leaking fuel ),and went to see the Pacifica SUV and it is very beautiful, it was the 4.0 front wheel drive. I think that you have a great vehicle with a great warranty. The engine seems very strong and well made, the inside is great. So enjoy it, so happy the you got something so nice.
Hi, farout been reading your posts for a couple of years, sounds like a happy ending ! My crd met its demise when my son rolled over after being run off I95. Not a scratch on him or his girl friend..but $13,600.00 of damage to the jeep It would have been an easy total if it had gas engine worth $16,000. The crd was worth over $21,000 so they were going to repair it. After many heated discussions with adjuster I convinced him the motor running upside down for a measure of time wasn't a good gamble for them and they totaled it.I will miss it . I'm on board with chrysler life time warranty and just picked out a new grand cherokee v8 I plan on keeping 10 years well this getting long good luck with your new purchase, John
Would like to clear the code on the jeep crd to bring it into the shop for warranty work, my window got broken and now the cable that controls the window is broke too. Anyways anyone recommend a code reader that clears the codes remember hearing about them on here in the past....
Farout - I appreciate the well wishes. I am in contact with my dealer's general manager and the initial discussion was positive, though nothing was promised. I'm now at 34.5k miles so end of the "real" warranty is coming soon. My CRD is mostly running fine, though I did have a lot of 55-60mph shudder/jerking on a recent road trip. In some areas 500ppm low sulfur diesel is still sold and I don't think the CRD likes it.
I was all set to try and get a Grand Cherokee or maybe a Durango/Aspen in trade, but then I picked up a copy of Consumer Reports auto issue and it seems the Chrysler products I'm interested in have bad, bad reliability records - worse than the Liberty, which actually scores ok. So now I'm less keen on anything requiring me to get another Chrysler product as a replacement.
The lifetime warranty is a positive thing, but notice that it only applies to gasoline engine vehicles? Interesting. Also, my biggest worry right now is EGR valve failures, which aren't covered by the 7/70 powertrain on my 2005. I mentioned this to the dealer manager and he said that Chrysler considers them to be a routine wear/maintenance item. He didn't defend that, but didn't say anything to reassure me on it either. I'm not willing to pay however many $hundreds it will be to replace the EGR every 20-30k miles. I know most people would just disable it but I don't want to take that route.
I now live 23 miles from the selling dealer instead of the 3 miles when I bought it, and I just don't have time to deal with problems. My wife suggests trying a closer Jeep dealer (there is one) but I don't know if they ever sold a CRD or would know how to work on it. I also don't know if they will want to help out someone who didn't buy there. My wife also noted that some of my lengthy time in the shop has been when the dealership broke something by accident or discovered more problems than they had parts for. I hadn't realized this before, but she is partly right, and it makes me wonder if my dealership, despite being nice most of the time, isn't real competent at fixing stuff.
If I had a common drivetrain I would try the local dealer or even just use non-dealer mechanics after the warranty period, but without being totally in love with the CRD I don't think I want to take the risk. I'm also reminded of when I had a problem in Colorado last year and the nearest Jeep dealer said they wouldn't even look at my CRD.
So, basically, I'm going to see if something wonderful turns up from my dealer and/or Chrysler. If not, I'll just trade or sell my CRD for whatever I can get, buy something better and more common from another brand, and treat it as my last dealing with Chrysler.
I did an oil change this afternoon, and found that the replacement drain plug the dealer installed when the OEM plug was stripped is (a) so huge I don't have a fixed wrench that fits it, (b) was so tight I couldn't budge it with a 15" crescent wrench, though my brother in law got it with two hands effort, and (c) mysteriously missing the copper washer that went between the OEM drain plug and the oil pan. I'm not sure if my dealer installed something that was a hack (and they charged me like $10 for it) or if Chrysler established this non-OEM replacement because the OEM design didn't work well. Either way, I'm not impressed that a Jeep dealer didn't replace a drain plug with the OEM version.
I should also mention that the last dealer oil change cost around $125 and they put in too much oil (8 quarts instead of 6.4) and initially defended that as the right quantity until the service manager said I was right, looked it up and confirmed I was right. The oil tech and service writer both seemed stunned to discover 6.4 is the right amount, so you can bet other CRDs serviced there have been getting 8.0. The writer even said he put a note on my file to only put in 6.4 quarts - stupid since that is precisely what the manual written by Chrysler states! They only charged me for 6 quarts, but left 8 in the engine, which didn't seem to hurt it but also doesn't seem like a good idea. The oil itself was charged at $12.75 EACH QUART which seems insane to me; local Autozone has the exact same Mobil 1 0W-40 for $6.19 a quart (though I am using Rotella-T 5W-40 at home since it is both cheaper and seemingly better as a CI-4+ oil). After this experience I don't see why I would take it to the dealer for any future oil changes or any other maintenance that can be done by me or an independent shop. But, again, I don't have lots of free time and I really should have a vehicle where I can pay $20-30 for an oil change at a quick lube if I'm rushed, not be stuck with only the dealer and leaving my Jeep for hours to have a simple oil change done.
Remind to all of you that tomorrow is the dead line for the Orm Circuit board Kit. Your have to go to lostkjs.com/forum and find the Liberty CRD love that Torque. then to ORM 2end run list.
Got here late! What do you mean by "last day for the Orm Circuit board kit?" Stop being offered? The thread gets erased? I don't get it. I am going to start mods to my CRD next week - the stuff in Eurekaboy's website for starters. Today I pulled off the cover behind the grill (covers the fresh air intake for the, well, the intake.) Just doing this alone made a very noticable difference in the "coast" - let off the accelarator pedal, and the CRD actually coasts now instead of immediate rapid deceleration. I have met many guys with other diesels and subscribed to a mag called Diesel Power. Very cool mag with lots of info on diesels (this is my 1st.) There are about a half dozen websites now with programmers for the little CRD, and with a few mods, like bigger intake path, larger exhaust path, ORM, programmers, etc. - (there are also replacement torque converters available) I really feel I could keep the little guy for the long haul. If you disable the EGR, you won't have to worry about replacing it every 8k - mine apparently needs it's 4th right now. As soon as I get it back from the dealer, I will start to change things that won't void the warranty, then get more aggressive as the warranty nears its end.
Sorry means no offense, try to pass the good news among all of us. I think I will show my fear and stop talking about the fixes that we all like to hear.
zachinmi: I have empathy for your service issues. I too think that even well trained tec's are either confused or forgot what they learned about the CRD. I have been watching the DMV to see where our old "Green Beast" is. Chrysler still owns it and I have no idea what they intend to do with it. I am glad to not have to drive to the dealer three times a month any more. I have had 13 Chrysler vehicles in my lifetime and Chrysler has treated me VERY WELL! However, even our 06 Liberty 3.7 had it's share of problems. I doubt I would ever own a Jeep again, they are too rough a ride and I really don not need that heavy duty of a vehicle. We are very pleased with the Pacifica. The mpg are 24= on the highway, and 22 in town. So for a SUV and the extra convienses it is just what we need, and are blessed to have. We bought the MAX CARE LIFETIME SERVICE CONTRACT, and with the LIFETIME POWERTRAIN WARRANTY we feel this is a great vehicle for us. Hope things turn for the better.
zachinmi: I have empathy for your service issues. I too think that even well trained tec's are either confused or forgot what they learned about the CRD. I have been watching the DMV to see where our old "Green Beast" is. Chrysler still owns it and I have no idea what they intend to do with it. I am glad to not have to drive to the dealer three times a month any more. I have had 13 Chrysler vehicles in my lifetime and Chrysler has treated me VERY WELL! However, even our 06 Liberty 3.7 had it's share of problems. I doubt I would ever own a Jeep again, they are too rough a ride and I really don not need that heavy duty of a vehicle. We are very pleased with the Pacifica. The mpg are 24= on the highway, and 22 in town. So for a SUV and the extra convienses it is just what we need, and are blessed to have. We bought the MAX CARE LIFETIME SERVICE CONTRACT, and with the LIFETIME POWERTRAIN WARRANTY we feel this is a great vehicle for us. Hope things turn for the better.
My fog light lenses are cracking (looks like heat stress) and appear to be delaminating. The right one is cracked through and moisture is getting in. None of the cracks are the kind you'd get from rocks or debris. It looks like a defect in materials. Has anyone noticed something similar??? Thanks. Do you guys think the warranty would cover something like that? To me it doesn't look like it was from road hazards but instead from a weakness or bad formulation of the lensing material. They aren't the same lensing material as the headlamps.
Well,like clockwork,every six months the engine light comes on.Revved to 3000 before it went anywhere and then took off.Thinkin the tranny module but it can stay in the shop for a month for what i care.Spoke to the manager at the dealership and have a meeting with him tomorrow.As much as i like the rig it is not reliable enough and shaky on safety when this happens in traffic.Looked at a pacifica Farout and it is a comfy ride,seems fuel mileage is decent too.Poor service manager turned grey i think when i took it off a towtruck,but the mechs are good so we'll see.Thinkin i may be one of the rats jumpin ship before it goes down.Too bad,i like the rig and will take a loss but don't know what vehicle to take a chance on next,maybe a chevette.
Nescosmo - I started typing that post in a panic before I went over to lost KJ and investigated what I was missing. My apologies if I sounded brash or offensive in my haste. The CRD has been acting up and I'm 400 miles from home - my problem no one elses, but it has left me a little tense until I get back home (hopefully without a hitch) tomorrow. Again - I apologize if I said something you took offense to. Steve
As I intend to drive my CRD only off-road for awhile, I have disconnected the MAF sensor in the air induction hose. Just like everyone else who intends to only drive off-road, I experienced an immediate difference in the engine. It has been idling very rough on start-up and warm-up, and belching huge amounts of smoke lately, as well as decreased fuel mileage - the exact same symptoms for the last 2 EGR replacements. (This will be my 3rd EGR repair - making me eligible for the lemon law buyback in Michigan.) Today after work, I also pulled the MAP (boost sensor) and wore out a can of Brakekleen on it, as it was just a large chunk of crud attached to a harness. Drove about 6 miles to work this morning (off-road, of course) and the CRD ran great, with no Check engine light. When I left there (about 7 hours later) the engine light came on immdiately on start up. However, it runs very smooth, and has stopped puking massive clouds of smoke, even when I jump on the accelerator. I will be taking the little beast back to the dealer on Monday (after reconnecting the MAF), and I imagine I will get the same treatment - "We put in an EGR valve - it's fine now." The FACT is there is an unresolved issue, this "band-aid" approach will not cure it, Dcx REFUSES to admit a problem, and the dealer is stuck, thus so are we, the owners. After the emissions warranty expires (36K miles) we will be left to replace these overpriced boat anchors on our own, in my case, about every 8000 miles the EGR valve "goes bad." We all know this is not a bad "lot" of EGR valves. There is a PROBLEM. I believe it to be software related, however, I am not a software guy. But I am an electrician, and whenever the automation doesn't work, and the wiring has been verified, it is ALWAYS the software, or at worst, the wrong combination of pieces and parts, as specified by the engineer. It seems to me that the CRD is belching so much crud out the exhaust side, that the return path is constantly contaminated beyond the design limits of the parts installed to deal with them. Therefore, IMO, there would be both issues mentioned above - the software governing engine management, and the selection of parts to deal with the engine exhaust. What to do in this pickle is our dillema - give it back, live with the headache, or "only drive off road." There are literally thousands of diesel pickups with computers and emissions systems that have been successfully modified for huge increases in power and mileage. Do they have higher emissions? I don't know. I do know there is a very large, helpful, and friendly community of diesel owners, beyond our little SUVs. Every last one of them has said to me to hold on to this thing, that with a little patience, and a few mods, it WILL last a very long time. I believe they are correct. So much so that I bought a 1983 Ford Ranger with a Mazda 2.2L diesel in it, and I run it on pure used vegetable oil, with no modifications at all. I won't be doing this with the Libby anytime soon, but it has become my little guinea pig for diesel mods, and my diesel truck owning friends are all right behind on my experiments. BTW - there are a couple of companies that modify Libbys to run on WVO - one is in California (Lovecraft) and the other is in Germany (Elsbett). Only time will tell where this all goes, but with the end of my emissions warranty in only 10,000 miles, I expect to keep my Libby, and walk a slightly different path. I apologize to those of you who hate long posts.
Steve..... Thank you for your kindness. I been off the road for about 7k and the oil is clean and after i burned all the crap of the EGR valve the beast is running so smooth that it make me fill that i am running a cady. The ORM is safe heaver for the CRD I am so happy the we found the way to cure our problem and stop going to the stealership for EGR replacement!.
When I get some money next stop is inmotionusa, TC and Shifter replacement.
Chrysler is having problems with their Denso Alternators on 2005 model and newer vehicles. The alternator is not failing but the pulley is going bad. It will give the same symptom as a slipping belt. You will really notice it when you have your headlights on and you use your power windows. The lights will start to flicker. This is happening to chrysler vehicles with about 50,000 to 65,000 miles on them. The pulley is not changed. The whole alternator has to be changed at $450.00 or more just for the Alternator. They can't be bought even from the manufacturer or be rebuilt because they are too new. So you must buy them from the dealer. I tried to get one from Denso directly and I was told it would be a 60 to 90 day wait. And just to let everyone know I have 42,000 miles on my second EGR valve with no problems, clean your boost sensors with every oil change. I haven't done any Mods to this CRD and it runs great. I do change my fuel filter every 15,000 miles due to the cp3 fuel pump it protects costs $3,000+. And when I do change the filter my fuel mileage aways jumps up. I've noticed when my fuel mileage drops that a fuel filter change cures the problem. And I run nothing but USLD. Good luck.
Nescosmo - very intrigued by your statement that the oil is clean after you go "off road". I just changed out my oil - the 8 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-40 that my dealer's ignorant tech put in - and it was black as coal, and looked and felt like it had coal dust in it. Some humongous level of soot. As you know I am still "on road" and planning to stay that way. The soot is a big issue. I think it is compounded by the idiotic decision to specify an oil with only a CF rating, not really designed for modern soot control. I replaced the oil with Rotella-T that has a CI-4+ rating (much better soot control) and I can immediately feel an improvement in smoothness. The 0W-40 oil that I drained felt much thicker than a 0 weight oil should. I notice that the CI-4 specification says it is more resistant to viscosity increase from soot than prior standards, which makes me wonder if the 0W-40 oil with the dated CF standard has a serious problem with its viscosity increasing due to soot.
I have an appointment with the dealer Monday for them to again look at the various unresolved driveability issues. I'm still trying to get a buy-back but not really betting on it. If nothing good happens I'm going to just replace it ASAP with another brand of vehicle. Still debating whether I'm going to then hire a :lemon: lawyer to try and get some money out of Chrysler. I am surprised that there isn't yet a class action regarding the CRD problems.
Nescosmo, the tuning chip is known to improve power and mileage but your converter may not last long enough for you to enjoy the modification. A 2.0 Liter crd engine can develop 175 hp off the shelf so a 2.8 should take you to ~220 hp if the transmission can withstand it. I've been driving "off road" for more than 2 years and I simply forgot to reconnect the EGR valve. I wonder if I should :confuse:
Sounds like good stuff but may be hard to find in the US. Looks like some boat/yacht repair places may know about it. The polycarbonate over here often just called Lexan after that brand, and I think they have adhesives under their brand name.
I'd have to pay about 400 USD for a rear light assembly, so I prefer to fix the one I have. The nice thing about this adhesive is that it cures with ambient UV light. This Swiss company sells via the web and speaks English. I think this company is established in the US and sells the Acrifix A-190 adhesive: http://www.palram.com/Media/Uploads/Adhesives&Sealants-Polycarbonate.pdf
This is a common problem, my CRD has it and so did my 2000 Durango. I just ignored it.
As to the alternator issue, mine failed around 80000. The bearings went bad and it was $525 installed. I am not sure what is so special about a part that has been around since the 1960's.
Funny you should mention a class action siut.Should we be looking at this?Probably easier in the States,I'm in Canada and it isn't common,you guys seem to have more consumer pull and better protection laws.
Zachinmi.... Sory that you are so afraid to the outcome of the CRD; They are better than the gaser and less treble that many others vehicles out there. If you forget about the dealer and go to the off road dimension the vehicles will bring you sanaty and trust. 36k limit is the ghost of a lots of owners. The oil after two changes, one at 3k and the other at 4k with a good oil filter, it look like the gases oil, no black soot. So far the 5w-40 is a great choice and if you like to go lemon go ahead, but i think is a mistake for you. If you follow the rules of the CRD, like all of us you will be ok...
Go ahead and do yourself a favor you will be full of soot at no time. The other day I took the cac hose from the air flow valve and I spray carb cleaner in it and then took a rag full of diesel fuel and with a screw driver stock the rag in the valve all the way as far as i could, let me tell you it was bad, I did it from the bottom of the fly and from the top of the fly, clean it as much as i could. when i fired off it spit jump and everything else but after a good smoke it smooth out and i took it for a ride. HO HO HO what a ride. LOVE my CRD..
You can also polish and reduce the excess glue from the top of the lens. Just allow a few days of moon and sunshine to harden the material. Besides using wet emery paper, I found that liquid silverware polish (old fashion cleaning stuff for grand ma's tableware) is chemically inert and best adapted for polishing plastic lenses and motorcycle wind screens. The secret is to keep the material cold otherwise dirt will get encapsulated in the plastic.
"As to the alternator issue, mine failed around 80000. The bearings went bad and it was $525 installed. I am not sure what is so special about a part that has been around since the 1960's."
The pulley on this alternator is not the same solid type your thinking about. Take the drive belt off and spin it by hand in both directions. You will find it acts like a syntrifical clutch in one direction. They ware out and start to slip internally causing the alternator not to charge properly. The mechanics at the dealers call it a wobbling alternator pulley. They have to replace the entire alternator. And as for the bearings in these things. They can be replaced by a alternator rebuild shop for about $50.00.
Mine sounded like it had bad bearings. If they have put some sort of clutch mechanism on it they have complicated a unit that does not need it. For 10x the price, I would take a unit that might cost me a little mileage.
"If they have put some sort of clutch mechanism on it they have complicated a unit that does not need it."
I have a question....what benefit is this clutched alternator supposed to have? If it has a centrifugal clutch, then it will always be engaged when the engine is running, just like any alternator. What advantage is this supposed to have?
Twocycle2, if it would be a clutch it could produce heat and do more damage to the belt than a plain pulley. It may simply be a "Taper-Loc" type of mechanism to align the pulley with the rest of the accessories.
The pulley has a plastic center designed apparently to protect some mechanism from the elements. I unloaded the belt tensioner and removed the belt from that pulley. There seems to be enough play in the assembly to define a failed bearing if the pulley is intended to be solid, but it’s not.
The pulley has a one-way clutch! :surprise: It grabs in the direction of rotation and slips in the other direction. When the engine is shut off the pulley stops very quickly and the alternator rotates on a little. Is the purpose to relieve impact torque on the alternator or keep the belt from jumping? :confuse: The other pulleys are big and probably more immune to impulse torque. Whaddyathink?
Siberia, I think you're right. The alternator needs to turn up to 8,000 rpm to produce full charge. The engine 'only' turns at 3,000 rpm and usually slower. This is why the alternator pulley is smaller and the clutch accomodates fast deceleration from the engine when the gearbox is shifting into a higher gear. Look here: http://www.hcdk.com/images/common/pdf/Technical_No1_UK.pdf
Thanks for the information. The dealer said the pulley assembly could not be purchased separately and it had to be replaced by replacing the alternator as a unit. Now I will use this information to buy and replace the defective freewheel pulley then write a letter to Jeep complaining about the ####heads at the dealership who ##### me again with their lies. I will ask Jeep to take back the good alternator and reimburse me for the part I didn't need. Wish me luck. I will be doing this over principle.
Comments
Destination LE. Got a set for $110 each including mounting, balancing and tax. Took my old tires to the local fix-o-flat used tire store and got $5 for each of the old tires. They were in good shape even if they were worthless.
The difference in handling, wet and dry, is absolutely unbelievable. The liberty sits a bit higher and corners and accelerates so much better. The tread looks like it would do well off road as well. The tire is rated near the top at tire rack but the firestone store was close enough on price with install and lifetime rotation/balance to swing me to them.
My good diesel Tech went with Carmax used lot dealership, so I don't have a diesel tech any more, I have to find one. I think that you still have a gas Jeep Liberty maybe you still have the Carmax care plan. How is your new Jeep doing, talk to me...
Nescosmo....
My wife's comment was: Jeep makes ordinary cars now
She's been spoiled by the Liberty :shades:
We traded in the 2006 Liberty and the Compass in on a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD. The Pacifica gets better mpg than the Compass!!!!! 24.3 mpg on the open road and 20 to 22 in the local area. It rides like glass, and the quality is what we have been looking for. The BEST part is the LIFETIME WARRANTY! Even the Chrysler Service Contract is a LIFETIME as well. We got both. Heck if Chrysler LLC is willing to stick behind their vehicles like this I won't have to buy another vehicle!
The LIFETIME WARRANTY does not cover diesels, that is not real good.
Any rate, I thought I would drop in and bring ya up to date.
farout
I hope you get the Buy Back you need, best to you.
farout
The report states there is no visible sign of wear that could affect safety and the exhaust opacity measurement wasn't sufficient to give a reading above the background noise of the instrument!
I guess this has something to do with my ORM. The previous diesel car had it's EGR valve working
I was all set to try and get a Grand Cherokee or maybe a Durango/Aspen in trade, but then I picked up a copy of Consumer Reports auto issue and it seems the Chrysler products I'm interested in have bad, bad reliability records - worse than the Liberty, which actually scores ok. So now I'm less keen on anything requiring me to get another Chrysler product as a replacement.
The lifetime warranty is a positive thing, but notice that it only applies to gasoline engine vehicles? Interesting. Also, my biggest worry right now is EGR valve failures, which aren't covered by the 7/70 powertrain on my 2005. I mentioned this to the dealer manager and he said that Chrysler considers them to be a routine wear/maintenance item. He didn't defend that, but didn't say anything to reassure me on it either. I'm not willing to pay however many $hundreds it will be to replace the EGR every 20-30k miles. I know most people would just disable it but I don't want to take that route.
I now live 23 miles from the selling dealer instead of the 3 miles when I bought it, and I just don't have time to deal with problems. My wife suggests trying a closer Jeep dealer (there is one) but I don't know if they ever sold a CRD or would know how to work on it. I also don't know if they will want to help out someone who didn't buy there. My wife also noted that some of my lengthy time in the shop has been when the dealership broke something by accident or discovered more problems than they had parts for. I hadn't realized this before, but she is partly right, and it makes me wonder if my dealership, despite being nice most of the time, isn't real competent at fixing stuff.
If I had a common drivetrain I would try the local dealer or even just use non-dealer mechanics after the warranty period, but without being totally in love with the CRD I don't think I want to take the risk. I'm also reminded of when I had a problem in Colorado last year and the nearest Jeep dealer said they wouldn't even look at my CRD.
So, basically, I'm going to see if something wonderful turns up from my dealer and/or Chrysler. If not, I'll just trade or sell my CRD for whatever I can get, buy something better and more common from another brand, and treat it as my last dealing with Chrysler.
I did an oil change this afternoon, and found that the replacement drain plug the dealer installed when the OEM plug was stripped is (a) so huge I don't have a fixed wrench that fits it, (b) was so tight I couldn't budge it with a 15" crescent wrench, though my brother in law got it with two hands effort, and (c) mysteriously missing the copper washer that went between the OEM drain plug and the oil pan. I'm not sure if my dealer installed something that was a hack (and they charged me like $10 for it) or if Chrysler established this non-OEM replacement because the OEM design didn't work well. Either way, I'm not impressed that a Jeep dealer didn't replace a drain plug with the OEM version.
I should also mention that the last dealer oil change cost around $125 and they put in too much oil (8 quarts instead of 6.4) and initially defended that as the right quantity until the service manager said I was right, looked it up and confirmed I was right. The oil tech and service writer both seemed stunned to discover 6.4 is the right amount, so you can bet other CRDs serviced there have been getting 8.0. The writer even said he put a note on my file to only put in 6.4 quarts - stupid since that is precisely what the manual written by Chrysler states! They only charged me for 6 quarts, but left 8 in the engine, which didn't seem to hurt it but also doesn't seem like a good idea. The oil itself was charged at $12.75 EACH QUART which seems insane to me; local Autozone has the exact same Mobil 1 0W-40 for $6.19 a quart (though I am using Rotella-T 5W-40 at home since it is both cheaper and seemingly better as a CI-4+ oil). After this experience I don't see why I would take it to the dealer for any future oil changes or any other maintenance that can be done by me or an independent shop. But, again, I don't have lots of free time and I really should have a vehicle where I can pay $20-30 for an oil change at a quick lube if I'm rushed, not be stuck with only the dealer and leaving my Jeep for hours to have a simple oil change done.
nescosmo.
I have had 13 Chrysler vehicles in my lifetime and Chrysler has treated me VERY WELL! However, even our 06 Liberty 3.7 had it's share of problems. I doubt I would ever own a Jeep again, they are too rough a ride and I really don not need that heavy duty of a vehicle.
We are very pleased with the Pacifica. The mpg are 24= on the highway, and 22 in town. So for a SUV and the extra convienses it is just what we need, and are blessed to have.
We bought the MAX CARE LIFETIME SERVICE CONTRACT, and with the LIFETIME POWERTRAIN WARRANTY we feel this is a great vehicle for us.
Hope things turn for the better.
farout
I have had 13 Chrysler vehicles in my lifetime and Chrysler has treated me VERY WELL! However, even our 06 Liberty 3.7 had it's share of problems. I doubt I would ever own a Jeep again, they are too rough a ride and I really don not need that heavy duty of a vehicle.
We are very pleased with the Pacifica. The mpg are 24= on the highway, and 22 in town. So for a SUV and the extra convienses it is just what we need, and are blessed to have.
We bought the MAX CARE LIFETIME SERVICE CONTRACT, and with the LIFETIME POWERTRAIN WARRANTY we feel this is a great vehicle for us.
Hope things turn for the better.
farout
Steve
I will be taking the little beast back to the dealer on Monday (after reconnecting the MAF), and I imagine I will get the same treatment - "We put in an EGR valve - it's fine now." The FACT is there is an unresolved issue, this "band-aid" approach will not cure it, Dcx REFUSES to admit a problem, and the dealer is stuck, thus so are we, the owners. After the emissions warranty expires (36K miles) we will be left to replace these overpriced boat anchors on our own, in my case, about every 8000 miles the EGR valve "goes bad." We all know this is not a bad "lot" of EGR valves. There is a PROBLEM. I believe it to be software related, however, I am not a software guy. But I am an electrician, and whenever the automation doesn't work, and the wiring has been verified, it is ALWAYS the software, or at worst, the wrong combination of pieces and parts, as specified by the engineer. It seems to me that the CRD is belching so much crud out the exhaust side, that the return path is constantly contaminated beyond the design limits of the parts installed to deal with them. Therefore, IMO, there would be both issues mentioned above - the software governing engine management, and the selection of parts to deal with the engine exhaust. What to do in this pickle is our dillema - give it back, live with the headache, or "only drive off road." There are literally thousands of diesel pickups with computers and emissions systems that have been successfully modified for huge increases in power and mileage. Do they have higher emissions? I don't know. I do know there is a very large, helpful, and friendly community of diesel owners, beyond our little SUVs. Every last one of them has said to me to hold on to this thing, that with a little patience, and a few mods, it WILL last a very long time. I believe they are correct. So much so that I bought a 1983 Ford Ranger with a Mazda 2.2L diesel in it, and I run it on pure used vegetable oil, with no modifications at all. I won't be doing this with the Libby anytime soon, but it has become my little guinea pig for diesel mods, and my diesel truck owning friends are all right behind on my experiments. BTW - there are a couple of companies that modify Libbys to run on WVO - one is in California (Lovecraft) and the other is in Germany (Elsbett). Only time will tell where this all goes, but with the end of my emissions warranty in only 10,000 miles, I expect to keep my Libby, and walk a slightly different path. I apologize to those of you who hate long posts.
Steve
When I get some money next stop is inmotionusa, TC and Shifter replacement.
Nescosmo.....
I have an appointment with the dealer Monday for them to again look at the various unresolved driveability issues. I'm still trying to get a buy-back but not really betting on it. If nothing good happens I'm going to just replace it ASAP with another brand of vehicle. Still debating whether I'm going to then hire a :lemon: lawyer to try and get some money out of Chrysler. I am surprised that there isn't yet a class action regarding the CRD problems.
I've been driving "off road" for more than 2 years and I simply forgot to reconnect the EGR valve. I wonder if I should :confuse:
Good addition to the Healing Hazy Headlamps Guide!
This is the German spec:
http://www.swiss-composite.ch/pdf/t-acryfix.pdf
I think this company is established in the US and sells the Acrifix A-190 adhesive:
http://www.palram.com/Media/Uploads/Adhesives&Sealants-Polycarbonate.pdf
I just ignored it.
As to the alternator issue, mine failed around 80000. The bearings went bad and it was $525 installed.
I am not sure what is so special about a part that has been around since the 1960's.
If you forget about the dealer and go to the off road dimension the vehicles will bring you sanaty and trust.
36k limit is the ghost of a lots of owners.
The oil after two changes, one at 3k and the other at 4k with a good oil filter, it look like the gases oil, no black soot. So far the 5w-40 is a great choice and if you like to go lemon go ahead, but i think is a mistake for you. If you follow the rules of the CRD, like all of us you will be ok...
Nescosmo.....
Nescosmo....
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Caribou's_fix.wmv
I am not sure what is so special about a part that has been around since the 1960's."
The pulley on this alternator is not the same solid type your thinking about. Take the drive belt off and spin it by hand in both directions. You will find it acts like a syntrifical clutch in one direction. They ware out and start to slip internally causing the alternator not to charge properly. The mechanics at the dealers call it a wobbling alternator pulley. They have to replace the entire alternator. And as for the bearings in these things. They can be replaced by a alternator rebuild shop for about $50.00.
If they have put some sort of clutch mechanism on it they have complicated a unit that does not need it.
For 10x the price, I would take a unit that might cost me a little mileage.
I have a question....what benefit is this clutched alternator supposed to have? If it has a centrifugal clutch, then it will always be engaged when the engine is running, just like any alternator. What advantage is this supposed to have?
Twocycle2
Curious to find out for sure what it is and does.
The pulley has a one-way clutch! :surprise: It grabs in the direction of rotation and slips in the other direction. When the engine is shut off the pulley stops very quickly and the alternator rotates on a little. Is the purpose to relieve impact torque on the alternator or keep the belt from jumping? :confuse: The other pulleys are big and probably more immune to impulse torque. Whaddyathink?
http://www.hcdk.com/images/common/pdf/Technical_No1_UK.pdf