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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    You replied to a post from a year ago. The original questions were:

    Is there anyone out there that loves their CRD? Are you happy you have it?

    I replied with a yes to both questions.

    Why are you responding to me with an angry face? :confuse:
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    There is some truth in the claim that these forums attract primarily the people with problems, but I think in the case of the CRD and its tiny, tiny ownership base, you should realize that the users here are perhaps 1% or more of all CRD owners in the US, something not true for almost any other car I can think of.

    The CRD is a pretty good car, but it has really shown that DCX (and it is DCX, not Cerberus Chrysler, that created it) really didn't give it the support it should have. My dealer has pretty good techs, but even though we're in a major market just 90 miles from Detroit itself, he has trouble getting parts in a reasonable time frame. I am very pleased with the mileage and power of the CRD, and it is a good vehicle in other respects too. But I do wonder about long term support, parts availability, and post-warranty repairs. For me it won't be too long before I sell it to someone who is in love with diesel (as several others here are, and I was in my first year of CRD ownership) and hopefully who has a bit more mechanical skills than I do, or closer proximity to a competent dealer (I now live 25 miles from the dealer I bought it from and still use for service). One of my biggest issues is the outrageous cost of dealer maintenance, like the $12.75 PER QUART they charged me for engine oil last time. If you can do maintenance yourself, this issue is pretty much eliminated, and parts should be easy to find online for quite a while.
  • cmasscmass Posts: 2
    Siberia, I thought your post was good, and relevant, so I responded to it with my own thoughts. I did not check the date it was posted.
    After reading so many worried people's comments here and on several other forums, (sometimes the same people) I thought it was important to make my comments. Based upon my own experience on forums ranging from cars to string line trimmers I know they can create unnecessary anxiety. Heck, I needed a Prozac after buying a Stihl chainsaw and then finding a forum filled with people who had horrible experiences with the engines. (extremely rare) I have also been misled into buying the wrong product for my needs. Forums can be excellent for learning, for giving heads up, for providing creative solutions and new ideas as well as a sense of community etc.. but like any community, the truth can sometimes get a bit muddy and I think it is important to remind ourselves of that from time to time.

    "Why are you responding to me with an angry face?"

    I hit that button by mistake (it is right next to the smiling one)....but then thought it looked cute so left it. This one is cute too: :shades:

    Further good experiences and things I like about both my CRDs: They burn 100% American-made biodiesel, Good turning radius, decent stereo with an actual nob for the volume, clean & functional dash layout, good ability to crawl over nasty terrain without revving the engine, good road view, easy to park in tight spots, fits my 6' frame perfectly, can tow my motorbike trailer. It is also the only available small 4X4 that can run on biodiesel. Then there is the child seat access: With my Subaru Outback (which I really liked) I had a choice of straining my back or bumping my kid's head when placing him into the car seat - that is no longer an issue in the CRD. Oh, did I mention the biodiesel thing? Close to being carbon-neutral, grown by Washington farmers, brewed and distributed by Washington companies - easily obtained.
    Yep, all in all a pretty decent vehicle. :)
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    I keep coming back to the capabilities of this vehicle. There is just nothing else out there yet with the turning radius, fuel economy, towing capacity, off road capability and safety related to weight all rolled into one vehicle. Sometimes I wish I had 2 CRDs. ;)
  • kellog13kellog13 Posts: 12
    Glad to hear yours is great and you love it. There is a group of us having nothing but nightmares, it is a POS in my opinion. Parts to date:

    Transmission, 3 week lead time, still waiting.
    torque converter (non F37)
    flex plate (non F37)
    transmission pump (non F37)
    turbo charger assy
    anti shudder valve
    fuel rail line (they broke it?)
    Recalls-blower, rotors, ball joints

    All this and 2 dealers have given up trying to repair this thing. This kind of problem is happening to the CRD in numbers that are NOT being posted on forums, I hope you never need parts as they will be hard to procure and become very expensive when the warranty runs out. As it is, things are hard to find, transmission $5000.00 and 3 week on dock.
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 17
    I've been reading this forum since it started. I had 4 SUVs since 1971 before getting our CRD. I was waiting for a Diesel SUV for a long time and was asking the reps for one. I bought our 05, built in Dec 04, February 15,05. It was the first one in Milwaukee I believe. It developed driveablity Quirks @ 19k and the dealer replaced the EGR valve and reprogramed the EMC. Milage kept raising from 21 mpg (winter remember) to 25 city & 30+ highway. No other problems other then the slightly noticable drop in power after the recall F37? Power still good enough for rapid on ramp acceleration and pulling our two axle 16' cargo trailer. I do my own maintenance as always and found it easy enough to do. The threads here have given good advice and I enjoy reading them. We have 38+ k on the little red CRD now and We intend to keep it a long time (250k at least). My wife & I both love driving it and it is neat to be able the choose between full-time or part-time 4x4 according to the surface and weather conditions. My wife wouldn't have let me get it if it wasn't red with a sun roof (ours doesn't leak). Sorry if I'm long winded. P.S. Yes the OEM Goodyears are poor and I've been using Shell Rotela 5-40, works well in mine.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Kellog13... Be frank and tell everybody how you drive your vehicle. I bet you do some kind of abusing, use any fuel and put it through water and mode all the time...

  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Nescosmo - I have no idea how Kellog drives his CRD, but why are you criticizing those things? This is a JEEP and if you don't plan to ever get it dirty, you bought the wrong vehicle. As for fuel - it should be able to run on anything sold as diesel #2 - you should NOT need to hunt down special super-premium varieties of fuel to use. I know mine runs adequately on any old diesel #2 from a gas station, but it runs quite noticeably better on premium diesel. I don't remember anything in my manual about a required cetane rating or needing to hunt down higher cetane diesel than is generally available in the US. Maybe it should be there, but I don't think it is. All in all I think it is a basically great vehicle seriously handicapped by inadequate adaptation to USA emissions requirements and fuel standards.
  • tjm3472tjm3472 Posts: 11
    Just checked back into this forum after a few months. I stopped because I was starting to feel guilty that I had the only good CRD out there. I've been running it on B20 for over a year now. Take it to a local mechanic with 30 years experience for service (he loves working on it) at a reasonable rate because the dealership showed itself to be unable to even do simple things like tightening the oil filter completely or hooking up the 4-wheel drive after the F37 recall. I really love this vehicle for it's towing, mpg and off road capabilities. :shades:
  • kellog13kellog13 Posts: 12
    I'll be right with up you, I work on aircraft for a living and I baby all my stuff to no end. Everything I own is, and has to operate at the optimum level it was designed for. My CRD is in pristine shape with absolutely no dents or scratches. It is hand waxed and never seen off road or mud bogs of any type. I bought it to transport our dog to the lake and travel to the mountain for skiing weekly in the winter. As for fuel, I use only shell ultimate (expensive grade) as it's close to my home. DC Engineering in all their wisdom to fix my rig has insisted I use only Chevron Diesel as they say there is better additives in the fuel. My friend, that'll be the day where they tell me where to fill up! Like Zach said, and I agree with him, the problem is with emissions and the related systems trying to work in harmony, in 06 there was no way to meet emissions but somehow jeep did and VW couldn't, it makes one wonder. I will say more on the matter in the coming weeks as Chrysler has formerly asked one more chance to fix it.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I am at 81000 miles.
    One transmission failure, fuel filter [non-permissible content removed]'y failure, EGR Flow Valve, Torque Converter recall, F37 and disconnecting the EGR valve. Last winter cold starting was difficult, I think that the glow plugs are not lighting after the engine starts, something I will have to play with.

    I think it is starting to break in as the mileage has come up recently. Getting 24-26 now.

    Since the EGR was disconnected it runs great, is quick off the line and has not died once.

    If it will hold up like it does recently, I will run it until the wheels fall off and then glue them back on.

    Overall I think :confuse:
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    is it hard to disconect the egr
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Kellog.... To tell you the truth shell is not a good fuel it does not have a good handleling, fuel is contaminated because that. use another brand of fuel, it sound stupid but you will see the change. Buy your fuel at a truck stop or a gas station that you see trucker all the time. Chevron station is loved by truckers and their pump filters are change all the time. Do the ORM it will help and bleed your filter uance a month and if you are on cold country unplug the fuel heater in the summer month. Replace your muffler for a Dynomax muffler #19392, it come with pipes and the works; It will make a difference in the performance of the vehicle, also replaced you fuel filter every oil change specially if you do not buy fresh fuel.
    Hope you CRD do better.

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Interesting comment about Shell diesel fuel. Here in Maryland and especially in the local vicinity where I live, Shell diesel is LSD (S500) only. There are several of these Shell stations that sell diesel in high volumes and all are LSD. Not one has ULSD (S15). I avoid them. Chevron, Exxon, and Texaco all sell ULSD. Even FreeState and Liberty sell ULSD.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    No, just a plug but it is in a bit of a blind spot.
    It does turn on the MIL unless you put a a relay & resistor on the intake temp sensor to fake out the PCM.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Synlubes... It is hard and if you do, make sure that you cover the plug with tape so the terminals do not rust out; But why do you want to do that?, if the EGR valve is close the engine will choke, so for you to disconnect the EGR valve you have to make sure that you have air coming in to the engine from the air flow valve, and the only way that these could happen is by disconnecting the maf plug; Now if you disconnect the maf plug that alone make the EGR fail to close so is not necessary to unplug the EGR valve.

    By doing this the engine will get noisier but smooth, the mileage will increase and the soot will end and the oil will clear like a gasser. In some state this is elegal because the Nox will increase but with the new ULSD maybe will not. THESE IS WHAT WE CALL THE ORM.......(Off road modification).

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    To tamper with emissions devices is actually a federal offense and in most if not all states it is also considered a punishable offense. :sick:
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    cmass: Why would you end your note with ":mad"? I had a 2005 CRD and it was bought back by DCX, not because I just did not want a diesel. As a matter of fact Chrysler has an abundant supply of CRD's to get ready for the auction. Ours was bought back on April 4th and it still has not been touched! In 31,000 miles it was in the shop 25 times in 15 months!
    I am pleased that so many on the forum have had much better service than we did form our CRD. And to be honest the fact that some CRD have no problems and a good number do, that makes me ":MAD" at the factory that did not have consistent quality checks and more uniformity in th engines and the service persons. So enjoy your CRD but do not lump those with huge issues as making you ":mad"!!!

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    kellog13: Ask your service manager to contact Chrysler to start a buy back. Also ask the manager of the dealership to start a buy back. This works, and with the problems you have you need it, as the CRD will not get any better. DCX has a number of these CRD's waiting to get fixed enough to sell at the auction. Good luck!

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    So was the Valdis spill, The 3 miles Island and the 911 tower with the spill of thousand up on thousand of pound of freon. do not see anybody in prison, and the saga continues.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I don't see the Common Rail Diesel technology as a severe source of environmental contaminant. Do you know how billions of people produce energy in Asia? Have you ever had breakfast with a taste of coal in your mouth?
    When we use clean diesel fuel we can accidentally breathe our exhaust fumes without coughing, including when the ORM transformation is done.

    Nowadays in countries where Common Rail Diesels are used the quality of air is getting better; this is mainly due to a clean combustion (absence of vaporized and unburned fuel) :sick:
    People are sensitive to diesel particles because they rapidly feel lung irritation. The next step might be the filtration of our exhausts in populated areas.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Unfortunately what you say is true.
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Winter2 - or anyone - can you tell me what's involved in changing the fuel filter? Is it as simple as unscrewing the old one, screwing in the new one, and priming the system using the pump built into the filter housing, or is there more than that? I think mine is due for it and I would greatly prefer to do it myself, rather than pay my dealer far too much for parts and labor, but it needs to work when I'm done with it. :surprise:

    I just changed my air filter for the first time - it was a bit overdue, but the filter wasn't as dirty as I had feared. Got a NAPA Gold replacement filter for about $14. Only problem was some dumb engineer decided to route the AC line directly over the filter housing, making it difficult to open enough to get the filter out.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Zachinmi, if you change your filter without taking the unit off the firewall you will spill more fuel. There is no risk of fire when the engine is warm, but the smell will last a few days :sick:
    If you have a workbench and metal vice it's really easy to do and you have a chance to inspect the gaskets for cleanliness. What I find most important is to have sufficient light.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    But it runs better, does not pour out smoke off the line, and gets better mileage.

    Therefore, I have improved the emissions by disconnecting faulty equipment.

    Also, no one out here looks.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Zach...You have to take the filter off the fire wall:
    Disconnect the fuel hose, take the two screw out the fire wall, bring the filter up and take the wire off from the bottom fo the filter. Take a clean oil pan and take the bottom plug off, take an oil wrench and loose the filter, take the filter off, clean the filter housing with a clean rag in case there is some dirt or foreign materials. Take the new filter and take off the bottom white plug, put the plug that you took from the old filter and screw it on the new filter, put some oil or diesel fuel on the new filter gasket, screw the new filter in and after stop, give it a quarter turn more to the filter, go back to the truck and install the wire on the bottom of the filter, reinstall the filter on the fire wall, install the two fuel hoses.

    Now the best way to do the fuel filling of the filter is:
    Take the primer and pump it until you feel pressure then open the primer screw ( make sure that you put a rag under the primer screw) and open it, you will see air coming out, close the screw hole and pump again and do this until you see solid fuel coming out of the screw hole, close the screw, take the rag out and fire off the engine and you are done.
    the job will take you about 30 minutes if you take your time.

  • My 2006 CRD has 32K miles, and I have yet to have a EGR valve problem, etc. But I don't want to get one, so I have adopted the ORM in hopes of never having an EGR problem because it remains closed. I only wish the engine light would not stay on, but I would need detailed instructions, step by step, to put the resistor in the correct place as has been described in this forum before. With the light on all the time, I won't be able to tell if something else is going wrong, until the vehicle acts up. I have noticed without the ORM, it performs fine, except it will have some smoke off the line, especially noticeable at night. When I perform the ORM (unplug the MAF sensor plug close to the air filter housing), it runs the same, only it does not pour out smoke at any time. That doesn't make a lot of sense to me, and I would think a cleaner exhaust is better, since you see no particulates. I have never operated our CRD in cold weather or at altitude with the ORM. Does the CRD still run great at altitude, in the cold, and in all situations with the ORM? If so, what is the MAF sensor for? I have also noticed that when it is hot outside and the CRD is hot, and I let the CRD idle a while, it will sometimes go into a low power, very low boost mode. I can floor the fuel pedal and pick up very little speed, but if I let off and let it shift, I can slowly get the speed up to at least 70 MPH on a level road, but it won't maintain that speed up hills. That is easily cured by pulling off the road, turning off the ignition for a minute, and then I can continue down the road at full power with no further problems. It is like it "resets" itself. I have learned all this from keeping up with this forum, and I appreciate everyones postings. By the way, my wife and I like our CRD very much. It is a pleasure to drive and gets excellent fuel mileage. My wife has claimed it, and I am stuck with the other vehicle.
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Nescosmo - thank you for the detailed fuel filter instructions. Very helpful!

    Semperfi - I think the purpose of the EGR valve is to reduce NOx emissions by minimizing lean combustion. Lean combustion avoids smoke (particulates) but also increase NOx, the nasty cloying smell you get from diesels before 2000 or so, and a major air pollutant. I would have thought that limiting particulate was at least as important as limiting NOx, but I guess it didn't work out that way. I wonder if it's merely a sign that the EGR valve system doesn't work well in this setup. I have personally noticed less smoke since local stations switched to ULSD, and I also notice even less smoke if I'm running either "premium diesel" which is supposed to be higher cetane, or if I'm running B5-B20 biodiesel mixes.

    Personally I'm going to put up with the EGR valve for now, but if I still have the vehicle post-warranty and have an EGR valve failure... well, I'm going to write down whatever resistor spec I need! I would think the EGR valve would be covered under the federal emissions warranty, which goes longer than the 3/36 and I think more miles than the 7/70 I have on a 2005. I know that when my original EGR failed around 25k miles, the CRD drove at least as well as usual, maybe slightly better, and apart from the annoying check engine light there was nothing wrong with it from a driver's perspective.
  • Zachinmi,
    Thanks for the reply. I am able to fill up with B5 most of the time, and I have noticed that our CRD runs a little quieter and smoother than when I run on any other diesel. I also suspect it lubricates better than straight diesel, and may be part of the reason I haven't had an EGR failure.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I would investigate around the variable turbo vanes solenoid, the one that carries the very small air filter cartridge. The way you describe your lack of power resembles a non operating condition where the vanes force low boost pressure and the boost pressure sensor doesn't see anything coming :cry:
    If this came from a wiring or an ECU problem, you would get an error code. It seems your controller is just waiting for the boost pressure to build up.
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    I wish I had better availability of biodiesel. In my area there is B20 available about 30 miles away. Not worth a special trip, but if I'm going that way anyway I try to fill up. I have charted both fuel mpg and biodiesel % in the tank and I find my CRD seems to run the best at around 10% bio in the tank. It runs fine at 20% (multiple successive tanks of B20) but not quite as well as at 10% or so.

    Biodiesel has excellent lubricity and should be good for the fuel pump, as long as it isn't contaminated with water (which would be very bad for the fuel pump). The lubrication is irrelevant to EGR valve life, but the higher cetane and lower sulfur of biodiesel should reduce particulate, as you've noticed, and reduced particulate should help keep the EGR valve from clogging and failing. I have seen fewer posts lately about EGR failures, and I think the availability of ULSD since last fall may be the primary reason. Isn't owning a test market car fun?
  • Sold my 06 CRD today; got a very good price for it. I'll miss it but just need a truck more than an SUV. Over the course of 19 months and 16,155 miles I used 802 gallons of diesel for an overall city/hwy combined average of 20.14 MPG. It was actually beginning to edge up each time I filled in my spreadsheet (yes, a bit of geek keeping a spreadsheet of fuel and maintenance costs), the last three were over 21. Highest was a road trip this summer at 27mpg. Anyway, I think the CRD is good vehicle, a little quirky, but that's no different than any other car, particularly American with major components from foreign manufacturers. Y'all enjoy.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Semper... The resistor will not work there is a circuit board that is made which you will have to assemble and wire it to the system. That board work and is been tested. will tell you where to go so you can see it but now i have to go to bed....

  • mrmag00mrmag00 Posts: 16
    With the ULSD on the market I had found a site which
    addresses the potential problem with lubricity.
    The site is:

    I have been using the canola additive but my numbers don't
    show a significant increase in mileage.

    With low sulphur diesel in Europe for quite some time
    I am wondering if the fuel pumps supplied have been
    modified to address the lubrication problems or
    would the additive be a good measure?

    Getting 1 litre (1000 ML)for $12 and only uses 75ML per tank

    No bio around British Columbia that I have seen. Talk
    about the far north.... eh?

  • Thanks Nescosmo. I asked this before and do you, or others in the forum know if the CRD still runs great at altitude, in the cold, and in all situations with the ORM? I know it works great in hot weather at about 1,000 ft of altitude. Also, as others in this forum has noticed, my fuel economy drops about 20% in cold weather running. Most other vehicles run at least as efficient, but many more efficiently in the cold, since cold air is denser, etc. Is there anything we can do to change this?
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    My understanding is that any reputable refinery or fuel supplier will use additives to ensure that ULSD has enough lubricity to avoid any excess wear in diesel systems. If you are concerned there are numerous additives on the market - one common one in US is "Power Service", which like most diesel additives claims to do several things including raising cetane and lowering the gel temperature, as well as increasing lubricity. I keep PS handy for winter use, especially if we get cold weather early in the season before all stations have winter-blended fuel, but I don't use it routinely. I think it would be more economical than the stuff you linked to if you did want to use an additive on every tank. Some people have claimed that their CRD drives better with PS than without, but I haven't noticed a difference, while I do notice a difference with my preferred supplier of "premium diesel" or with B20 in the tank.
  • 1. I've been to the top of Loveland Pass with my CRD. That's 11,990 feet. The normal diesel rapping is gone and power only comes on line in any meaningful way when the turbo spools up. Exterior temp that day was about 45F.
    2. I live in MN and have started my CRD on the first try without plugging it in at -22F. I normally plug it in when it goes below -10F just to be nice to it.
    3. Day after Loveland Pass, I entered Death Valley National Park. It was 111F at 200 feet below sea level. I discovered that I had not had the TSB done to recalibrate the temp gauge. The vehicle never overheated but the needle climbed. Took a 4x4 only trail from bottom of the Valley to Campground, up a rutted rocky trial to 8100 Feet. No problem. The torque in that little 2.8 was :) .
    4. I don't know anything about the ORM
    5. I lose 20% mileage in winter but haven't a clue how to change that. With fuel for where I live reformulated for winter to flow and burn at temperatures to -40F, I suspect the winter blend is the culprit.

    Love my CRD!
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    I too have crossed Loveland Pass with the CRD, both directions, and I've also had it at 12,000 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park. Power seemed to be near normal, but turbo lag was noticeably greater. Pretty impressive performance all in all.

    My CRD starts right up down to -10 outside (and unplugged) but it runs rough for the first several minutes. For the first 30 seconds it sounds like it may not even be firing on all cylinders.

    Winter blended diesel has a proportion of #1 diesel which has about 15% less energy content. Combine that with more short trips and more time with the engine below its operating temperature and a 20% loss of mileage is no real surprise. I only lose about 10-15% of mpg in winter, but I have a longish commute (20 miles) and our Michigan winters are milder than Minnesota.
  • Looking for something about the size of the Liberty with decent fuel economy & towing capacity. From what I read in this forum FE seems to be a mixed bag and there's a lot of chatter about F37 changes, transmission concerns etc.

    What is a reasonable expectation for city & highway FE numbers?

    Is towing 4500-5500 lbs a reasonable event with the CRD?

    If I buy one used should I expect the tranny to fail within ??k miles?

    I like diesels but don't want to buy something with poor reliability.


  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    My house is at 6000'. No problems above 20F.
    Last winter it did not want to start below the teens.
    It acts like the glow plugs do not heat after the engine fires. If plugged in-no problems.
    I am waiting for the weather to cool so I can run some tests. I may put in a manual glow plug switch for cold weather starts.
  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    I turn the key and it always starts. Last winter to -12F without use of plug in heater. I have had it up Mt. Washington in NH (6,100ft) without issue. Going down the Mt. W auto road, I used 2nd gear in order to save brakes. It was a non-event.

    What else can you ask.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    What is a reasonable expectation for city & highway FE numbers?

    Depends on if you are a lead foot or not. I live in the metro Washington D.C. area and get 21 to 23 MPG commuting. On the open road, 28 to a touch over 30 MPG (if I keep it under 65 MPH).

    Is towing 4500-5500 lbs a reasonable event with the CRD?

    Maximum towing capacity is 5000 pounds. Tow more at your own risk.

    If I buy one used should I expect the tranny to fail within ??k miles?

    Depends on how well the original owner cared for it and if the original owner subjected the trans to any abuse. I am expecting at least 100K before I think about rebuilding.

    I like diesels but don't want to buy something with poor reliability.

    As some have stated in this forum, there are some who have had lots of aggravation with their CRDs and they tend to be quite vocal about it. I have had good luck with my CRD. A big plus is that I have a really good dealer to help me out. If you buy a used CRD, make sure you have a very competent dealer/tech to help you in the event you have issues. Also, consider purchasing an extended warranty for piece of mind.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribou1....AS we were talking about tires I am going to see if i buy the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo.
    I do not know if to buy the D or the E. The load range E is stronger, do I need a tire like that, will the ride be harder than the range D, will the E last longer. What do you think....

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Semper.... For the ORM there is a kit that come with all the components but you have to assemble it; you need some skill on soldering resistors on PC board.

    It cost about $75.00 and there is a list going on now, If you want to be in let me know and i will tell you how to get there....

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Mdamick, these glow plugs need a voltage and current limitator. I read they would burn if connected directly.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, the load index will tell you the maximum weight you can put on a tire to have the full functionality of the profile. If you go off road "gently" where stones are laying flat or on gravel and dirt roads, you don't need the highest index. I ripped my tires when pulling timber and extracting ornamental trees.
    I've finished my job but there is a price to pay concerning the transmission as well: the silent blocks of my front differential are worn and I get a CLINK-CLONK sound when I rotate the drive shaft. I use all the power available from my truck but during short periods. This is my main argument for using Light Truck rated tires. But the drive line is not Light Truck rated :sick:
    The tread width of the REVO 235x65x16 is not wider than that of the BFG A/T 225x75x16. Over here, SUV owners who have REVOs don't leave the pavement much. They should be good quiet tires for equivalent people :P
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    I had noticed the sticker on the front of the engine noting that the glowplugs are 7v rated.
    I was going to trip the glowplug relay manually to keep from frying things.
  • Just wondering what tires give the best ride. My wife thinks it is a little rough. I need to change tires, any advise.
  • I got Liberty CRD 2005 model with the tow package. I have been problems with the needle climbing to the red line while towing up steep grades.

    I know there has been several discussions on the forums regarding this problem. Did DC ever resolve the problems?

    I'm in the middle of of a cross country trip pulling a 3500lb trailer to the Nevada desert. I'm having to turn on the heater wide open to help cool the engine, no AC and OD turned off...still climbs into the transmission overheating light. It's been a very stressful trip having to watch the temp gauge like a hawk.

    the Needle has stayed in the middle on flat drives except crossing the Salt Flats where it climbed slightly passed center, but pulling some serious 5% grades it went into the red pretty quickly

    I'm completely over this Jeep and seriously considering ditching it for something else. My dealer's service dept is the worse I have ever dealt with...completely clueless. My Jeep has spent WEEKS in the shop and I've only had it since Sept 2005.

    I have had problems with glow plugs going out. tail light bulbs blowing and signal circuit board problems. The service guys have broke parts that have taken weeks to replace. I'm at my wits end with this vehicle and my dealer. I have drove Jeeps all my life..every automobile I have owned and I'm 45...4 jeeps total. I was thrilled to get a diesel model...but it has given more headaches than all my others combined.

    If I could use the Lemon law I would in heartbeat. I'm contacting my attorney when I get home to see what i can do.

    ....But in the meantime...anybody got any suggestions or updates on this overheating problem? :lemon:
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