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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    This also happens to me if I turn off the engine and then the headlights while the engine has not yet reached full stop. I can get only one headlight left ON :surprise:
    The PCM resumes normal operation during the next run.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Turns out that I am getting dyslexic in my old age. The code is P0093 not P0039. The dealer told me that this had to do with a fuel quality issue or air in the fuel system.

    Here is a link with a list of the codes for Caribou and anyone else who is interested.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    So, is this an easy fix then? I thought you guys got water in diesel, not air....
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    twocycle2: DCX's rzone rep. told me either they fix the majority of problems and it comes with some kind of warranty, or it must be sold juke a rebuilt accident vehicle with a damaged title. In the case of our "Green Beast" we have been watching the VIN # on the web and there has not been a no change yet. I have no idea what they do with a vehicle that justcan't be fixed. Maybe sold as a part oyt vehicle. Sylubes on this forum bought a CRD that had been a totally wrecked and had a rebuilders title, at least I believe that's what he told me on the phone. You might catch him and ask.

    Auto auctions are fairly well honest at least that's what I have found a good length of time ago.

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Diesel injection systems can have a headache with either. Enough air in the injection system can stop a diesel dead in it's tracks. Need to find the place where the air is being pulled in and fix it.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    zachinmi: Documentation is required for the times you have taken it for repair. With 30,500 miles you are on the edge. Call DCX at Customer Care 1-800-992-1997. Tell them you want help in taking care of your vehicle which is not dependable. Give them all they ask for. Call your Service Manager and make a time where you both can review all your issues with the CRD. Tell him you want the Zone Rep to review the time you have been with out your vehicle, and the number of repairs. Then go to the General manager of the dealership and tell your history again. Tell each person you want a buy back. If you have kept up with the oil changes etc. you have a better chance of course. I would not mention the Lemon Law unless no one wants to help you.
    From start to finish it may well take 60 to 90 days, and limit the miles you put on the CRD. Begin to search what DCX vechicel you want to replace it with, and what dealer has what you want. Looking to find our Compass took 45 days, as we had very specfic things we wanted and nothing less, and price was important as well.
    If no one is willing to help file Lemon Law papers with your state, and file a complaint with the BBB in your area. If none of the above helps then you either ask the dealer what is the best he can do, or trade it off, or ride it until you can sell it your self.
    We had our CRD in the shop 25 times and never over night, and we had 28,500 miles when we started the buy back. When we actually got the Compass we had almost 31,000 miles on it. We were charged $ .05 cents a mile based on the 28,500 miles when we were told DCX would buy it back. DCX was more than fair as far as we were concerned.
    I believe your attitude, and with not down grading the dealership, or the tec's your chances are much better. If you have bought Chrysler made vehicles before tell then how many and your Brand Loyalty. We had bought 13 Chrysler made vehicles, which I mentioned every time I could. I stated how pleased I have been with Chrysler, and this CRD did not come close in dependability.
    This is the best advise I can give, hope it helps.

  • coolridercoolrider Posts: 84
    If DC acts like they won't help, the lemon law is a possibility depending on your state laws. There is a difference between states and the requirements. Some have time limits only and some have time and mileage constraints. You should have received a lemon law booklet with the new car. Write letters now to preserve your rights. DCX bought mine backwith a lot of miles.
  • coolridercoolrider Posts: 84
    I still believe the CRD issues are from the wiring harness(s)and the fuse box(s). After the "diesel" mechanic replaced my melted harness and fuse box the problems started. I wonder how many of you are driving around with the same until the grounding of various conponents starts.
  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Farout, I greatly appreciate the info. I do intend to take a friendly approach if anything at all. I am trying to decide if I want another DCX vehicle to replace it (I think that is just Chrysler family now!) or maybe go back to Honda or Toyota. I have had two past Chyslers (actually an Eagle and a Plymouth) which were both fine, and my wife drives a Dodge Ram which has been fine, but I'm not sure I want to put all my bets on Chrysler right now. Basically I need to figure out if a buy back would be enough money ahead to justify sticking with DCX or if I should just treat the CRD as a trade-in on some other brand.

    I am in Michigan, where the Lemon Law was pretty much written by the Big 3. Any conceivable chance I had under the Lemon Law ended at 12,000 miles. Even within that first year/12,000 miles the vehicle has to be out of service an incredible amount. So anything I do will be by friendly persuasion, not suing or threatening to sue.

    One clarification - on that 5 cents/mile they charged you, do you mean that they refunded your original purchase price minus only $1425 (.05 x 28,500)?

    I am probably lucky as my CRD has only had 6 or 7 visits to the dealership for non-maintenance items. However, two of those were 7 nights in (each time), and two others were 1-2 nights in. Even though I'm in Michigan, less than 2 hours from DCX headquarters and less than 3 hours from Toledo where these are made, there have still been many delays in getting replacement parts for the CRD - EGR valve, torque converter, PCM computer, engine oil drain plug, a simple brake hose, a simple fuel line, etc. I am on a first name basis with all the service writers and several of the technicians! My dealership has been good about service, but the amount my Jeep has been in is too much.

    The next most troublesome car I've owned was a 2001 Honda Accord which spent only 4 nights at the dealership, all in one visit for a replacement transmission. It did have a couple other same-day visits though. Incidentally I seem to be good at picking models that are defective, so I will post on here when I get something new and then everyone else can avoid buying what I just bought.

    Strangely enough, having owned maybe 7 cars in my life, 3 of them purchased new, the one and only totally reliable car, with zero mechanical problems, was my 2004 Honda Civic HYBRID....
  • thstrangerthstranger Posts: 60
    Glad to hear you are pleased with your CRD, as I have been with mine....I too use Rotella 5w-40, was wondering if you could tell me how to clean the EGR valve and the Boost Sensor ??
    Thank you,
  • stbstb Posts: 31
    Has any one had a tire wear down to the steel on the two inches inside right front? I had the ball joint repair three months ago and now my right front is down to the steel cord on the inside two to three inches. The middle and outside looks perfect and left front is good. 32000 miles now last 5000 since ball joint replacement now right front tire is shot.
  • boredbored Posts: 300
    That happened to my mother on a different vehicle. Front suspension was perfect. Turned out to just be a bad tire.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    zachinmi: This is rather confusing, but I will do my best to explain how my buy back went. The sticker price was $27,790. We had mudguards and a spare tire cover added. for $216. We actually paid $25,157. plus the $216. DCX bought our "Green Beast" from us at full sticker price and the extras, for a total of $28,006. DCX sells us the Compass for full sticker price, and we had top of the line floor mats and mudguards put on making the Compass total come to $24,521. We owed DCX $.05 cents a mile for use of the vehicle which came to $1,450. Our pay off on the "Green Beast" was $26,5505. we traded our 2005 Jeep Liberty Limited in on the "Green Beast" and we had a "dead horse" to add to the new loan. That made us even more upset we traded in a really loaded Liberty Limited on a Sport CRD!

    Here come the very best part! We bought a Chrysler Service Contract, 5 years, 100,00- mile, $ .00 deduct able and for three years at no interest, for $1,540. shortly after we got the "Green Beast" CRD. DCX transferred our Service Contract from the "Green Beast" CRD to the Compass, and started the mileage from 0 miles again. We a little less than $640. on the Service Contract.

    So we felt for 30,500 miles that even with all the problems we endured DCX stepped up to the plate and did what was right and fair, and even gave more than we had thought possible. We are very pleased. We like the Compass 4x4 and we have only been to the shop for two oil changes! With our "Green beast" we had been to the dealer 5 times by this mileage. I was thinking of bringing a Lazy Boy chair from home, that's how bad it was.....LOL.

    I hope you can follow all this and it helps. I would say you have a good chance of getting something done. I can say unless you are willing to stay with a DCX vehicle, I think you staying with a Chrysler vehicle is a key point, as far as Chrysler presented it to me. Let me know how it turns out.

  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Thanks Farout. That is a very clear explanation and it sounds like DCX was very fair to you - of course, after far too many unplanned service visits!

    Like I said I am on a first-name basis with the service writers. At some point I will have to start inviting them over to my house.

    I have to make up my mind on what I want to do and will post back here when I do something.
  • bmartinpebmartinpe Posts: 51
    Since I am on my seventh EGR valve, I asked the servicing dealer's service manager I I could speak to a zone rep. I wanted to document the fact that I had so far changed the EGR valve (and throttle plate also) about as often as I changed the oil on this CRD. The service manager agreed that six EGR change outs was excessive, and he promised to contact the zone rep to see what could be done.

    Today he told me that DCX (I don't think they closed the deal yet) has a new throttle plate design, and that he will order another EGR valve and throttle plate assembly to swap with me. The zone rep told him that this seemed to fix the issue on several other vehicles.

    So we will do it again for the seventh change out and the eighth EGR valve.

    The good news. We just traded our 1977 Airstream 31 in for a newer 2007 Airstream 20 (just slightly used). With a GVWR of 5000 pounds for the trailer, I just couldn't wait to try the Liberty as a tow vehicle. Towed that trailer all over town a couple weeks ago. The rig handled well, but I will need to be careful on the interstate cloverleaf ramps. At somewhat higher speeds I could feel the trailer tugging the Liberty to the outside of the curve. The trailer really wanted to tug us over on our sides. There was a slight two mile grade on the interstate as we came home, and I noticed the temperature gauge began to inch up a little bit. I will have a better feel for the hill climbing performance this Wednesday since I will need to return to the trailer dealer on Tennessee's Highland Rim for some warranty issues. Details will follow on a later post.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    Great explanation, farout. Dont know if u'll know the answer to this, but I'll ask anyway.

    You may recall, prolly not, that I've been toying with the idea of a Liberty diesel. Since I'm in California the only ones available to me are imported from out of state with 7500+ miles, thanks to my California politicians who are definitely lookin out for me. My local dealer has purchased a bunch of used CRDs and brought them in to Ca. They are asking way too much for them, but that's another story.

    OK, finally the question - if I buy one of these used CRDs and it turns out to be a :lemon: will there be a possibility of a DCX buyback even though I'm second owner? TIA.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Bmartinpe..... After they do what ever, do the ORM. You will be at peace for ever with the EGR valve issue

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    joehoe: Yes I remember that you posted about your interest in a Calif. CRD's with 7500 miles in them. I think the only way to know for sure is to ask a Jeep dealer out there. I have an opinion that DCX would not do a thing. The issue with the CRD in Calif. is they do not meet the pollution laws. It seems to me that this dealer had these CRD's sometime ago. Did he go get more or are these the same ones?
    When you say the price is to much, what is the price and what are they a limited, Sport and are they a Certified DCX warranty? They should come with a 70,000 mile warranty if they are a 2005, or 36,000 if they are a 2006. A certified CRD comes with a 80,000 mile warranty, I would be cautious, and see what the DMV says about any extra fees. (I lived in CA for 30 years) I know the smog tests and all the stuff that they can put you through.

  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    Well, my wife and I test drove one about 3 weeks or so ago. They had 1/2 doz of them. I haven't been back since so I dont know for sure. Drove by one day and it looked like 4 or 5 of em still there.
    They are not legal to sell new, but are legal to sell used after 7500 miles. Dont ask me why I'm not a lawyer or a politician. I'm sure there's a good reason :confuse: .
    THe prices were real steep. The red one we drove was a limited with everything incl navigation, had about 10,000 miles and was priced at $31995 IIRC. Ridiculous price. I recall the salesman saying they had the market 'cornered' on CRDs in california. I didnt go back partly because of that remark and partly because I must admit the stories on here have put the fear of DCX in me. Course now it isnt even DCX anymore and I expect the new management may be less inclined tomake good on the old CRDs.
  • randy_rayrandy_ray Posts: 9
    I need a truck so I'm looking to sell my diesel Liberty... 06 Sport with just over 15k miles. Haven't had any major problems with it... had a defective vacuum solenoid but dealer fixed it and replaced the recalled blower motor while it was in. Run Mobil 1...
    I don't know about the lemon law and its application to second owners but I imagine it varies from state to state. I do have an extended warranty on mine that covers everything through 100k miles; pretty sure its transferable but will verify and discount the difference if it isn't. Asking $24500. I'm looking for an 03/04 Dodge 2500 SLT or Laramie Quad Cab, 4x4, 6spd, Cummins.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    How far from California are ya? :>)
  • randy_rayrandy_ray Posts: 9
    Houston.... meet ya in AZ? Seriously, if your interested check out and shoot me an email or call my cell.
  • randy_rayrandy_ray Posts: 9
    There was some incorrect info in my online ad for the Liberty... $24500 is w/ the warranty (as in my earlier post); $23250 is w/o the warranty (autotrader ad) but the update I did somehow excluded the w/o warranty piece. I fixed that. Anyway, no more about that... sorry for the misdirection.

    I talked to the service tech at my Dodge dealer (refuse to go to Jeep dealer where I bought my Liberty) about some of problems folks have posted here and the DCX buy backs, he said that he wasn't aware of any around Houston but that mine was the first he'd worked on. He added that as the main diesel tech he had been reviewing material about the 2.8 prior to my visit but was well connected with DCX concerning all diesels. He said he'd try to get the skinny on Liberty diesels back at DCX. I'll post anything I get from him.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Posts: 59
    I made several trips to the dealer and they have decided to replace the front transmission pump. It was not replaced when I had F37 done. It seems like the only problems I've had with this vehicle has had to do with things that have been part of a recall campaign. Nothing went bad on this on it's own except the egr, it's always been after the dealer touches it and then needs to fix it twice to get it right.

    I hope they're done using our CRDs as training for when the
    "real" diesels come. My dealer is a Chrysler Jeep Dealer.

    Check this out (slightly off topic):
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    pump has to be replaced with the torque converter totally different pump
  • kphoustonkphouston Posts: 15
    Randy_Ray, which dealer would that be?
  • coolridercoolrider Posts: 84
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    jeyhoe: $31995 is OUTRAGIOUS !! I am sure that Arizona was legal to sell the CRD's. Earnheart Dodge was selling then, they are located near Phoenix. A limited with 7,500 miles being a 2006 might be worth $22,000 to $24,000. So they are taking a huge profit on thoes golden eggs.

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    I will sell you mine for 28k never had any problem but EGR one time.

  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    I Know! However ...

    I just went to KBB and the Dealer retail for the one I looked at is about $29,000 believe it or not. About $26K for a private party sale.

    What's even more unbelieveble is, with rebates I could get the exact same model (sans the CRD though) brand new 2007 for less than $25K. $7K buys a lot of gasoline. Well, maybe not a LOT.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    jeyhoe: Why do you want a CRD, is it just for the sake of being unique and just something different? The Liberty gas 3.7 has the same tow capacity, and is far less to keep up, and the price for a 2007 has a $3,500. rebate for a Sport, and $4,500. rebate for a Limited. Just as a added note a oil change for the CRD is much more than a gas, and the fuel/water filter change is more than $120. EVERYTHING cost more on the CRD! From my perspective, owning a CRD in Calif is like having no air-conditioning in Death Valley in the summer. What if you have mega problems, who are you going to take it for repair? In order for ANY DCX Tech to work on it they must be certified, and have gone to the DCX school. Just some things to consider.

  • zachinmizachinmi Posts: 228
    Unfortunately I have to agree with Farout. I doubt you will find properly trained techs in Kalifornia. Also, while I love the mileage and power of the CRD, it has proven to be more trouble-prone than the gas version. If you still want one, I will happily sell you my 2005 sport, with 31k miles and no current problems (all fixed, for the moment!) for $20k - maybe less.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Let me get this right. $120 for a fuel filter change. You can now get the filters from Napa and Wix for under $30. It takes 10 minutes tops to change it out yourself. As for the engine oil about $35 when you do it yourself using shell 5w-40 synthetic. Only have to change engine oil 12,500 miles. You have been talking to the greedy dealers a bit too much. I have 62,000 miles on my 05 CRD and haven't had "Any" problems since 28,000 miles when they did the torque converter recall. Get 26.5 MPGs average. 31.5 on the highway and 22 MPGs was the worst with it in 4WD. Haven't done any mods to it. It runs great and is "very economical"
    A few people have had bad experiences but don't start a slash and burn campaign. Walk away and let other enjoy what they have. And didn't you hit a deer with yours and where able to walk away without being hurt? Any good mechanic can repair these CRDs. I wouldn't let the dealer I bought mine from polish the wheels. I will do all the work needed myself. This way I know its done right. Good vehicle but bad support and service from lacking dealers. My 2 cents.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    Your response appears to be tainted by your bad experience with the CRD. Some aspects of care do cost a bit more but occur less frequently than for a gasser. All engines are becoming more complex with time and there is more computer control too. This means diagnosing a problem, be it gasser or diesel is becoming more of a headache.

    I have been fortunate to have a good running CRD. I have also been fortunate to have a good shop too.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    :>) How far away are you?

    In response to farout and everyone posting here, here are my reasonings.

    I need a 4wd vehicle that can tow. 5000 is pretty minimum, but I could make it work. Since one child is gone to college, the number of seat belts needed is down by one. Therefore, I no longer 'need' my 8 passenger Lincoln Navigator (though I really do love the vehicle). SO the new one would replace that. Now the Nav can tow almost 9000 and I've used it to do that and the thing is great. But ...

    Being in Kalifornia and subject to the whims of the mental midgets in charge here (not you, Arnie, the other ones) is painful. Gasoline, despite being refined right here so shipping costs are minimal, is the costliest in the country, thanks to taxes and idiotic environmental blunders over the years. The price has actually dropped in the last week to $3.41 for premium (at the local indy station. If I want Shell or 76 , add 15cents at least per gallon).

    So the Navigator gets at best 12 around town - shopping, kids to school etc, and 18 or 19 on the road if I work at it, not insanely like a Prius driver, but just keep gas pedal up/down to a low roar. Hook up the trailer and I'm lucky to see 9 mpg. I am SICK SICK SICK of paying so much for gas.

    So enter the Liberty CRD. Much much better mileage, better off road capabilites etc. I'd have to get a different trailer, but seems like the mileage jump from 9 to over 20 would help me live with that. Creature comfort would drop somewhat, eh? etc.

    Main thing though is mileage. I just dont want to pay what I'm paying to the robber-barons here and in the middle east. Now, to the gas Liberty: quieter and more reliable, CHECK. Less torque, much worse gas mileage. CHECK. I am surprised it has the same tow rating (makes me think the CRD can actually do more than 5000). But the mileage of the gas Lib is just plain awful, IMHO. It's maybe 10% better than my Navigator if that? I really dont want to pay basically the same for gas in a car I could almost fit in the back of the Nav. SO a gas Lib is pretty much out for me.

    I thought about and even test drove the Patriot, which I rather liked despite it being so obviously cheaply made. But it cant tow anything and off road capabiities are suspect at best.

    All just one man's humble opinion.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Do you need to tow or go off road while taking kids to school and going to work? Perhaps a small car could let you keep the truck for weekends.
    If I convert to USD, we pay $6.44 the gallon of diesel (1.15 Euro x 4 liters to the gallon x 1.4 USD to the EURO). And to put the cherry on the cake, we can't use straight vegetable oil like in the older diesels.
    Have you heard about 'peak oil'? Seen from today it's difficult to make a wise decision, if not to live closer to work.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    caibou - hey, a pen pal from France! Cool.

    I appreciate your input and you have my sympathy for the price of fuel in France and the rest of Europe. I would presume that taxes make up most of the price, as they do here in Calif?

    In any case, your suggestion of a smaller car is not lost on me. However truth is, we do have another car which gets a bit better than 21mpg all round. That is our commute car while the Nav is part business, part family get away vehicle. To buy a third vehicle just to use less gas while chauffering the kids etc doesnt make much sense does it?

    Certainly I understand the problems with the world's oil supply. Thus explaining partly my desire for a more fuel-efficient vehicle. OTOH, there are things I need a vehicle to do and even a Liberty CRD would be a stretch to do everything that the Navigator does. I know that driving a Lincoln Navigator makes me the target of much disdain from certain folks. Well, too bad. As soon as these folks invent a vehicle that gets 30+ mpg with low range 4WD, comfortable seating for 5 and towing of 5000+ pounds, I'm there. In the meantime I, along with Al Gore and John Kerry, will continue to drive my large SUV. I will as always try to do it in the most fuel-efficient manner.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    goodcrd: With no disrespect intended, and having gone through a solid inspection by DCX of how our CRD was maintained, I can state most assuredly from experience what DCX will say and do about how a CRD is maintained.
    There is NO ONE WHO QUALIFIES FOR SCHEDULE A MAINTENANCE! Changing oil at 12,500 miles is not acceptable under DCX warranty. DCX has pulled one over on anyone who believes they qualify under Schedule A.
    Under the factory warranty both Axles and Transfer Case must be changed every 12,000 miles. Fuel Filter at 25,000 miles. I had no idea that these had to be done to keep your factory warranty. If my dealer has not made a mistake and put the "next service due at" I would never have gotten the buy back.
    There is the huge issue of any Bio fule over B-5 voiding the warranty as well. This would be a hard one to prove, I think, but if DCX wants to be picky they can use it.
    I an assuming you do your own work. I am not able to do so, so that did make it cost more.
    I don't have a slash and burn campaign, and you are correct that the DCX support and training was lacking from the start and got even worse.
    Unfortunately hitting Deer is a hazard that is a real problem in our area. Most vehicles are damaged to one degree or the other, but most are driven away if the radiator isn't hit. We need more hunters in Missouri!
    I do appreciate your 2 cents worth, and I fully understand where you are coming from, I met no offense to you or anyone else. I only wish I had bought one that was made to the same standard you got. As for any good mechanic, after the F-37 recall our CRD lost so much power, and the fuel mileage went down to 20 and 22 on the open road. I agree than any good mechanic should have been able to make our "Green Beast" work right. The problem is with 3 Jeep dealers only one would work on the CRD.
    Thanks for the note.

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: I attempt to be fair, and the only thing I can state is from my actual experience. However, I do recognize it is tainted. I also have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport 3.7. The only problem is 16,500 miles has been a drivers window that was sticking on the track. The fuel mileage is more spread apart between town and highway mileage. We get 16 to 17 in town and 18 to 21 on the highway. The cost per mile is far less than the CRD was considering the added cost of parts and higher diesel fuel cost while we had the "Green Beast".
    I will try not to be so sour, and a little less tainted.

  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    There is NO ONE WHO QUALIFIES FOR SCHEDULE A MAINTENANCE! Changing oil at 12,500 miles is not acceptable under DCX warranty. DCX has pulled one over on anyone who believes they qualify under Schedule A.

    The above statement is woefully wrong. This is what the greedy dealers want you to believe. DCX has it in print at 12,500 under schedule A and a good lawyer would eat them alive. So has the state of PA's Attorney General over games like this. Just turn the dealer who or DCX for that matter over to a State's Attorney Generals office and see what happens. Your warranty will be honored maybe with a little pressure but it will be honored.
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    they would have to prove the oil caused the problem to deny warranty
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I have 60,000 miles and I'm on the 5th oil fill including the original fill. I've noticed a constant water temperature drift, and now the gauge never reaches the middle mark. I think the engine is finally breaking in, but there is no oil consumption yet. Without the evidence of a destroyed oil bearing I can't see how warranty could be technically denied when using appropriate synthetic oil :confuse:
  • twocycle2twocycle2 Posts: 55
    I think most of us agree that when our CRDs are running properly, we love the vehicle. But for most of us, having a vehicle we can't depend on is simply not an option these days. Farout, you have been a wealth of knowledge over the past two years, and an inspiration in patience to me to have gone to the dealer 25 times! But think about it, to have a modern vehicle in the shop as much as many on this forum is ridiculous. In the year I owned my CRD, it was in the shop more than my 1993 Ford Escort that I put 90k miles on. That's the only reason I traded my CRD in....I just don't have time to be taking my car into the shop all the time. I replaced it with a Caravan....I have nothing against Chrysler....every previous experience with Chrysler has been great....">I don't think for a minute they intended CRD owners to have all these problems, and it appears that they are treating the owners pretty well when it comes to buybacks. I think it comes down to this: if you love your CRD and can accept the risks of potential problems, then it will be a great vehicle for you. If your main goal for a vehicle is dependable transportation, there might be better alternatives. There's no right or wrong here...each person does what's best for them. Personally Farout, I think you have every right to be somewhat bitter (though I think you have stayed amazingly understanding and objective throughout this experience). If I had been through what you have been through, I can assure you that I would be redefining what bitter and angry mean! For what it's worth Farout, thank you for showing us all that taking the higher ground still wins out in the end. For me, I do miss my CRD, but I do sleep better at night not having to worry about what will go wrong next.

    For those who still have them, keep the posts coming....I still enjoy living "electronically" through you all :-)

  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    i agree with you i just chanced oil and had twelve thousand mile on it with 5-30 oil and didn't add any
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    My is over 10k and never use oil. have the proven and now for the last 2k the ORM. The power is great and the mileage also great. It used to have a cloud of smoke every time i open it, but now the smoke is gone maybe the ulsd did the job. Never has been back to the dealer since the F37 I just drive it and ounce a month I bleed the fuel filter. I just order the Dynomax exust system #19392 to see if i get better mileage.

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, there is still an open question for me:
    - Do you really recuperate oil in the Provent?
    My Provent sits in the garage, it's brand new. I was expecting to challenge it with oil fumes when the sump level would go down, but it's desperately stable.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    twocycle2: Thanks for the kind remarks, but as you say when you depend on a vehicle, and you are at the mercy of the dealer, there' not much that being nasty will help.
    As I am unable to do any work that the "Green Beast" needed, I was stuck with the best the dealership could do.
    We have had three Caravans and liked them, the fuel mileage with the 3. L engine and the cheap 3 speed automatic was generally 17 to 91 mpg. The ride was smooth and the wind had very little effect on it. IF the Caravan had and AWD I would have chose it rather than the Compass. But now I see that Dodge has the Avenger, Magnum, and the Chrysler 300 with AWD. The Avenger uses the 2.4 World engine with a 4 speed automatic in it. Odd that they did not use the CVT like the Compass. Maybe the CVT is not beefy enough?
    Nice of you to respond, thanks again.

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribou1... Yes plenty to make a difference in the turbo but not in the deep stick. I take the filter sometimes and wash it with diesel fuel and put it back; It keep the hoses clean; The proven works for me so far so good, I am getting the air box conversion because 3 days ago in a torrential rain the air filter was wet, not to cause damage but it was wet.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribou1 I know that you are using the BFG tires but i been searching for tires, rain is bad around here. Michelin tires side walls are weak some peaple in the forum have had issue with them (blowing up). I been thinking to get Goodyear Forteza triple tred (P235-70R-16) on a local store for about $150.00 each. what do you think.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, assuming one goes offroad and the nature of the terrain is agressive for sidewalls, my second choice for the Liberty is the Bridgestone A/T REVO: 2FT+Revo
    I prefer tires that can evacuate lots of water lateraly with the counterpart of being more noisy.

    For wet road conditions, the "Uniroyal rallye 4x4 street" should be excellent: ummer/rallye4x4street/rallye4x4street_en.html
    I've known this make for more than 25 years. These tires gave fantastic grip under pouring rain but never lasted long (~30,000 miles).

    I have colleagues who get very good all-year street mileage from Yokohama and Michelin. My original Goodyear Wrangler S4 tires gave excellent grip when they were new, but lost 1/3 of their profile in one day on the highway at 80 mph with cruise control. Jeep dealerships advertised the Goodyear S4 at 284 Euros each (~400 USD), and I bought the BFG for 150 Euros each (~~210 USD). Over here, most rescue vehicles use BFG tires. There has to be a reason for this choice.
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