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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    cleaned the boost sensor the other day.huge difference for the better.truck has its pep back and it was a quick easy job.I'll check it monthly to see what kind of carbon build up I'm getting.I recommend doing this to all CRD owners,thanks to whoever posted that remedy,I think it was siberia or winter 2.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Posts: 59
    Would someone be kind enough to post a picture of where it is? I read the descriptions and had no luck.

    My CRD is baaaaaaack in the dealer with a problem where it intermittently will not shift into reverse. Dealer cannot seem to replicate the problem, but I can't blame them as it is very hard to deal with intermittent issues. Had TSB done with new kind of tranny filter that has lower flow resistance but to no avail. Anyone else had a similar issue? Is it the transmission pump they didn't replace on my F37 that is the culprit or does anyone think it might be a solenoid?

    Thank you. :cry:
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    farout: Thanks again for added info. First as to Patriot - that's bad that it runs worse on 10% ethanol because the whackjobs at the Cal CARB just voted to make ALL gas in California 10% ethanol. And my taxes pay these people.
    The Liberty CRD appeals to me on a gas mileage basis and a towing basis. I would use the thing for 4 wheeling and for towing a 6x12 cargo trailer and getting better than the 10 mpg I get now. BUT, I've never yet had a problem on the road and the Liberty CRD is scaring me a bit in this way. Seems that they made only what 11,000 of them and there are a lot of reported problems and buybacks in here... And now Jeep has dropped the vehicle from production. I'm just not sure I could 'trust' it. Still thinking about it though. I dont know if CA will allow the JGC diesels in here either. I am sick to death of <15 mpg and $3.65 gas though. Sick sick sick.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    One soluton is to have two vehicles. One for what are probably rare towing occasions etc and a commuter car.

    If you drive a typical 15,000 miles a year you would save $3,650 every year in gasoline ($304 per month) by going to a 30 mpg Civic. A hybrid would do even better still. The gas savings alone would cover most of the car payment, and the current 4x4 will last longer since it has fewer miles.

    Just food for thought.
  • coolridercoolrider Posts: 84
    Hey good thinking, but hybrid no way, my Jetta TDI gets better mileage than any one that I looked at, yes Prius too(they really dont get 60mpg). I'm even pulling an automatic on it. I came real close to two of toyota's hybrids camry/prius as a daily driver and a highlander to do my towing hauling until I drove it for a while and thought about how much there is to go wrong, yes I am gun shy after the libby crd. I was thinking along the same lines as you about two vehicles. The toyota highlander hybrid and a camry hybrid would do every I needed towing and economy with a roomy car. The highlander's looks :P and price and abilities killed it for me. Then I started looking at the diesel options. My vw jetta diesel will run circles around the prius/civic and my JGC CRD vs the Toy Highland Hybrid is well you look at them and decide which one for the same money. It works for me anyway. Diesel anyday!
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    I should have said a Jetta/Golf after it is still a diesel. The Prius would probably do better in the city, but it won't beat a good small diesel on the highway.

    I am looking forward to the new crop of diesels coming in the next few years.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    After many thoughts I went and did the ORM and also unplug the fuel heater because is summer. It has been about 3 tanks full and i can said the CRD runs as never before, smooth, powerful and no smoke. after each tank i check the map sensor and allways clean; The only thing is that the cell stay on at all time but that's ok fo me, it will clear if i put everything back after 3 warms up. Well i passing the good news to all of you...

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    I have been using Sunnoco fuel for the last month or so, i went the other day to wally world and found the diesel at 2.66 and i been paying 2.79 at Sunnoco. I have some diesel on a container for cleaning my hands etc. (chipper that mineral spirit). I went and i fill the tank with wally world diesel fuel and i took some in a container to compare it with the Sunnoco fuel. Well the Sunnoco fuel had the same color and lubricity,- but the smell; wally world smell like a very strong diesel smell and Sunnoco smell less strong and like gas. Went to the station and ask if the diesel had gas in it and they told me that 3 month ago they drain a tank of gas and convert it to diesel fuel.

    Now can this damage my engine or is ok.

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, if you can sample normal diesel fuel and low sulfur diesel (side by side), then you will easily distinguish the low sulfur fuel: it has no smell :shades:

    5-10% regular gasoline mixed with diesel won't hurt. This used to be the winter "mix" here.

    After doing the ORM, how does your tranny behave? Can you easily play with the shifting just using the throttle pedal?

    Mine is now close to 60,000 miles. I'm thinking of resetting the mileage to '000000'. It works like new and never needed any repair. ;)
  • butchmanbutchman Posts: 24
    Hi Caribou1,

    I tried clicking on the boost sensor link you had supplied earlier when discussing this with Farout. The link does not take me to a page anymore. You don't happen to know where this diagram can be found now do you?

    Thank you,
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    love mine now to thought we lost you on the forum glad to se you back since tourqe converter and pump no problems mayby low sulphur fuel is helping
  • thstrangerthstranger Posts: 60
    Glad to hear you are pleased with your CRD, as I have been with mine....I too use Rotella 5w-40, was wondering if you could tell me how to clean the EGR valve and the Boost Sensor ??
    Thank you,
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi Butchman,
    Could you please point me towards the defective link? I haven't changed any of my web directories...
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I was away for some time but kept an eye on the forum from the land of 'Flying Dragons', across the other pond ;)
    I hope you can finally enjoy your truck as we do over here.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribou1..... Welcome back. If you reset your mileage please let me know how you do it.

    If the ulsd has no smell, then Sunnoco is ulsd and wally world is not. They said in the pump that it is 15 ppm but the diesel smell is very pronounce.

    The ORM is great, the tranny is very smooth between 50 and 55 the tranny used to jump back and forth you could see it at the rpm meter but now it stay at one speed all the time.

    When it goes to over drive at 58 or so it fill like it goes in to a silk is so smooth that you think there is on neutral.

    If back in 05 we would it known about the ORM, Farout would still have his CRD.
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    i'll take a pic and try to figure out how to post it...
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    what do you clean the map sensor with?
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    ARvman.... With regular carb cleaner and if too sooty use a tooth brush. make sure to be gentle.

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, it's sad to understand a 'typical' problem and not be able to share convictions. The tranny issue was identified a long time ago by our local dealerships :(

    This is also why I never re connected my EGR valve :surprise:

    The problems Farout faced seem to be related to the "learning period" of his dealership(s). But if he's happy now with the Compass and the consideration DC gave him after all the worries he went through, well...
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Thanks nescosmo,I used a toothbrush on the boost sensor as do we unplug the fuel heater?
  • butchmanbutchman Posts: 24
    The link you posted was:

    At one time someone posted a diagram of the boost sensor right in their message, but I can't find that anymore. I have been fortunate in that my 05 CRD has 40K and is running terrific - I love it! However, based on what I have read, there will be a day that I need to be prepared to clean the boost sensor and I want to know exactly where it is and how to do it. Thank you! Butchman
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Arvman... Face the filter and is the plug on the right, it has one red wire on it; Do not take the other plug off, that plug ( on the left) is the sensor, if you take that one off you will have a cell.

    When you take the heater off 99% of the time the shutter goes away and the air issue will go away, some times the heater will heat too much even when the sensor tell it not to and problem happen without you knowing; Take a ride with the heater plug in and stop and touch your filter if the filter is too hot, it means that you are starting having problems. Now that is summer go and plug it off you wll fill the diffence it will run better with no issue at all.

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Here is a well detailed link:

    Esperanto was invented for people to share a common language; now we have web forums :blush:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, are you kidding? Was your heater ON during summer?
    Normally the reference temperature sensor is the one located under the battery. There is a small two wire connector coming from under the battery. If this contact breaks open, you could simulate 'out of range' temperatures! I was thinking of installing this sensor against the firewall. On cold starts, the firewall is also cold. Once the engine warms up it's compartment, it can read a warmer temperature and we should get better mileage as well.
  • chester5chester5 Posts: 9
    Hello all,
    I have never been one to do the computer forum thing, but I decided to check it out, look around and ask for help and advice. When I found this page, then I knew I had a lot of reading to do, and since I am in the boonies on dial up it takes forever to load the pages. So now I willask for quick help while I in the meantime spend many hours reading the previous forums.

    My 2006 Jeep Diesel hasn't run right since new, and I have been getting the run around for the past year.
    It seems they really don't even know what kind of engine it really is, and they dont' know how to fix it, and customer service tells me there is nothing wrong, that all Jeep diesels have an inherent Characteristic vibration.

    What it does, (NOT VIBRATE), is that it for lack of a better word bucks kind of jerks. IT happens at different speeds, can't be reproduced, but it happens almost every day. It can happen in one of two major ways, one is very subtle and unless you drive it all the time you probably wouldn't even know it is happening, but I know it does it, because it does it even on fresh even pavement with the cruise on. It almost feels like somebody is just lightly touching the brake as I am driving.

    The other times this happens it goes into violent convulsions.

    And it also happens more often at a in between, moderate level.

    When it runs good, it is great, and I love driving it. And while it is a nuisance and aggravating inconvenience, it is absolutely unsafe at high speed on a freeway with a semi on my tail. That has happened a few times, and when I just start slowing down for no apparent reason, and because I am not braking they don't know I am having trouble, the truckers are not such a nice breed then.

    So now, I will take the short cut and ask for opinions and advice while I take a few days to read through back files.

    The service manager thinks it is the torque converter, and a computer issue. Does that ring a bell with anybody?
    And what is this ORM? hope i have that right, what is that for?

    I initially thought it was the tranny, but now have been told it might be the engine, and to watch for any engine lights to come on, because it might just stall out. That really is not very reassuring at this point.

    Thanks everybody,
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    The first thing that comes to mind is air in the fuel system. Make sure that all of connections at the fuel filter/water separator are snug. Next pump the pump on the fuel filter twenty times to make sure all air is purged from the system. Drive it and see if it is any better. I had to do this with my own 2005 CRD a few times before it behaved well.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Chester.... You have to get involve with your CRD and forget about the dealers.
    First You have to replace your fuel filter and make sure that you do it right. then you have to bleed the fuel filter ounce a month for the shudder that you been having goes away.
    second: you have to clean the Map sensor so your CRD will run smooth, then make sure that your ccv. is not contaminating the cat hoses and last do the ORM which consist of unplugging the Maf sensor that is on the air filter. What this do is deactivate the EGR valve and also let the Air control valve to be open at all time giving the engine fresh air at all time. This keep the oil clean (no soot)and there will be no smoke when you clean it nose.
    Also my CRD had the problem that the fuel heater for no reason was on at all time i turn the heater off and that help in keeping the CRD without the shuddering and keep low air in the fuel. Well that is all i can tell you for know.

    Hope it help.
  • coolridercoolrider Posts: 84
    yeah thats right disconnect all of the pollution equipment so we all can breathe better :P Oh but you can have clean oil! I still think most of the problems are wiring harness/fuse box based. Just a little short here and a little grounding there and gearbox ecms go crazy and the pcm is shot and the egr quits and the map wont read and the sending unit wont send and the jeep wont run. Enough said, fix it or buy it back and they did. :shades:
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Coolrider... I am so happy that we are in a free country, you do and think what you want. About pollution think about the boats at sea. go to San Diego and look at the water were they all park. ULSD fuel have cut pollution more than you think. There is a black box on the making to take care of the cell and let me tell you 99% of the issue will go away with the ORM. -I LOVE IT-

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I agree with you over most of the issues:
    - The EGR components play an important role in the synchronization of the gearbox + torque converter. Adopting ORM also gave me total satisfaction :)
    - The ball joints recall was not due to a severe deficiency of PTFE lining. The ball joints that were replaced on my truck were rather well built. There is no need to panic when you detect play on the front wheels. Just keep an eye on the evolution of the play. If there is an accidental metal to metal hammering sound coming from the front suspensions, then stop immediately. :D
    - My mileage is clearly temperature dependant. Replacement filters gave me even values over long periods of time. We must always consider weather conditions, and a season lasts only 3 months! In my case, I have 20% variation between summer and winter for the same driving conditions (10-12 L/100Km).
    - Rear brakes moan, especially after it rained. Mine still moan and perform as new. They're almost human.

    By the way, pollution is not always what you see floating above the water ;)
  • coolridercoolrider Posts: 84
    nescosmo: I know that they are many places (boating) (airplanes) that need to address pollution issues, but when your crankcase oil is clean something else got dirty from the exhaust gas recirculation valve being open. I was trying mainly to point out that I firmly believe the problems with most Libby CRD's is electrical. Chrysler told me the problems would go away too and now they own my libby. Yes free country, have you thanked a soldier today? Enjoy your Lib CRD I do miss mine but then I would not have found my JGC LTD 4X4 3.0 Mercedes CRD as a replace vechicle! It is doing great @ 2k and my libby had been towed twice by then.
  • butchmanbutchman Posts: 24
    Thanks! I am familiar with Manifold Abolute Pressure Sensor (MAP). I didn't know it as a boost sensor. And now we have web forums! The pics help - thanks again!
  • mngolfermngolfer Posts: 18
    Just got our 2005 Liberty CRD (28K miles)back from the dealer and the second time we've had the EGR replaced. About 2 months ago they also replaced a throttle control valve.

    Asked to see the failed part, but they had already packed it for shipping back to DC. Service manager told me the valve was stuck in the closed position and that DC had a redesigned EGR valve from the one that was replaced a year ago and had issued another TSB. He also said there were several customers that have had their EGRs replaced 4 and 5 times. It also appeared the EGR might be covered with "hidden warranty" after the OEM warranty expires because of all of the problems with the EGR. Hope this latest EGR design proves out. We really like the CRD. We are getting 22mpg in town and on last road trip 26 to 28 mpg
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Golfer now that you have a new EGR do the ORM so you never go back to replaced it again.

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Cool... I went to see the GC but the only one that they had was the 2 wheel drive. I took it for a ride and it is a dream, do not know if it was because the B5 in it but there was no clatter. That will be my next vehicle but is too much for me now. The tranny is like the Sprinter (I do have one) so maybe i wait another year or more.

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribou1....I am at about 10k on my CRD and mostly i drive it on flat land (Fla) but the most demanding condition is rain so tires and brake has to be at top one shape.
    Tranny has never been an issue for me i do not abuse it at all and for that it has given me a good service.
    The air box configuration that they all talk about i think the CRD will starve for air; with all the rain that i have seen here, the filter never been with water
    We have a perpetual summer and because that, i was thinking of using 15W-40 syn oil. I do use it on my Sprinter and for that my cooling hoses stay allways clean, so the engine do not clatter as much as the CRD with the 5W-40 oil.
    I know that in your land they use mostly 10W-40 for diesel, also i know the VM motori recommend 10W-40 for the 04 and under. So what do you think? Would it harm the engine or would it make it run stronger on the Florida summer.

    Will like all comments.

  • jcscrdjcscrd Posts: 4
    More good news. Thanks. I'll be spending my Saturday at the dealer tomorrow to deal with the mystery check engine light since they refuse to give me a rental car. Has anyone had Jeep/Chrysler give them any options other than lemon law for getting rid of these CRD lemons. Maybe giving us a regular liberty with similar mileage and taking this Jeep out of our hands. I plan on talking to the manager, but I really don't have any solutions to the ongoing problems with the CRD. At this point I would gladly give the diesel away for a normal liberty that gets bad gas mileage. Buying this CRD was by far the worst mistake I've ever made. :lemon: Thanks for your help.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Could you verify they are replacing the EGR under a TSB or recall of some kind?
    Do you know if they did any re-programming of the PCM also?
    With mine disconnected the off idle lag is gone, but it would be nice to have it stock.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Tires are important when it rains, but no tire can grip on the oily film that forms when it just starts to rain.
    To give you an idea, when I was involved in racing there was a difference of 1.5 second per mile between each type of tire on dry road (slick, grooved 1/8" and rain 1/2"). They were called SB5, TB5 and PB5 made by Michelin. This is to say that the density or presence of the "full rubber" touching the road plays little role in normal traffic. A wet road when freed of it's hydrocarbon residues will give good adhesion to most tires that have enough thread to laterally evacuate the excess water.
    Concerning oil, there are different approaches:
    - When you need to hurry with a cold engine, choose 5W-40
    - When you have time, choose 10W-40
    - If you're a purist, SAE HD-40W will bring back memories and worries.
    I've used Yacco 5W40, Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 plus the original oil. I've seen no difference. In your case I would use 15W-40 without worry. You may have to cross check the pressure drop of your oil filter when the oil is cold. This could "push open" the release valve if your oil is too viscous when cold.
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Mdamick, DCX gave us 3 options. Trade,(1) $12,000 off another vehicle.(2) Buy out mileage about 70 cents a mile which would be as I figured $7000.00 or (3) Replacement vehicle which cost us $2500.00 to get a DCX vehicle. The first two options were like throwing our good money down the drain. WE took the Replacement. no one ever used the word Lemon Law. NO ONE. We got the most help from the Attorney Generals office in our state. NC When they wrote a letter, we would get a phone call from Impartial Service Group. ISG were also very helpful. However, I still don't have the paperwork for the new vehicle. Should be in the mail this week. It is a clear title, so we just don't understand why it would take since April 27th to get the tag and title paperwork to us. I will be patient. I have the 2nd dealer tag on the new Dodge Dakota replacement truck. That expires July 10th. WE had no vehicle from the dealer while they tried to fix the CRD. It was 110 days before they got it running. By that time it was owned by DCX. I agree, 'buying this CRD was by far the worst mistake I've ever made" :lemon: hamchamp
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Hamchamp.... Do not take your Dodge Dakota for service to that dealer. It is not the CRD, it is the Dealer, It will be the same with the Dakota. I had a 93 Dakota and the injectors never work right. one day the oil sending unit start licking oil when i was in the highway and the engine went. so Good lock.

  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    i did the fuel plug and the maf plug,got a CEL when the maf was unplugged but the truck runs great and better fuel mileage.if need be,can i reconnect the sensors and disconnect the battery to reset the computer.i know this worked in older vehicles but the dealer said this will not work on new generation obd.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Arvman.... I do have the ORM at all time but what i did (to see if the cell clear) was to plug all and run around til the engine warm up then I stop in a parking lot and shot off the engine, turn it on and off 4 times and the when i took off the cell went off. Some peaple sait that after 3 warm ups the cell goes. You do not have to disconnect the battery but you could try maybe will work.

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribou1... The oil filter that i use do not have bypass valve only an 8 micron element it is use on racing car, maybe you are familiar with. the name is CM filters or Canton Mecca. They are high performance filters. I don't think that with this filters pressure drop exist. The lubrication is the best and the oil is filter at 100% all the time.
    When i start my engine i run the CRD below 30 until it gets to normal temp. after that is normal driving.
    The reason i want 15W-40 is because the blow by, at 15W-40 is minimal and clatter is low -it sound like a diesel- i know i drive an Sprinter with a 5 cylinder 2.7 mb engine.
    I still have an old 1/4 can of Synclair HD 40W oil -on the metal can-, the one that you need to have the special opener to put the oil in the engine. I treasure it .
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    you guys keep running that thick paste i run 5-30 series 3000 amsoil and love it warm up much quicker and only use half a quart in ten thousand miles have a nice day
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Synlubes, the last oil refill I had to do was for my power steering at 50,000 miles. It needed about 1 cubic inch. Engine oil I haven't added in the last 10 years. Both my lawn mower and bike run with diesel oil. Engine machining tolerances combined with research to improve lubricity made our lives more comfortable. If I would still need to top my engine oil level, I would look for a leak of the dipstick seal :shades:
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    as always reply very good
  • coolridercoolrider Posts: 84
    The 5 speed is adequate, I wish it had come with the mb 7 speed that is on their suv with the crd . Well I guess that 30 grand more should get you something extra on the mb suv. I thought the sprinter was the 3.0 crd, learn something new everyone time I log on. I do miss the clatter from the libby ... a little. Sold on diesels.
  • mngolfermngolfer Posts: 18
    Was not a recall. Service manager said there was another TSB out for the EGR and that DC has a new design for the EGR. Nothing was noted on the paperwork that the PCM was reflashed.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    jcsrd: Yes, yes! There is hope for you friend. Call the Customer Care line at 800 992 1997. If you have been to the dealers shop a good number of times, and you are under 36,000 miles there is a good chance they (DCX) of a buy back. Ours was in the shop 25 times in 16 months! It was an assortment of problems, but even the dealer said he was sick to death with our CRD in his shop!
    In fairness to many others who have has no problems, and the CRd has been a great experience, the majority of the 11,000 CRD's in the US seen to be good ones.
    Sadly we had one that had many defects. We got a Jeep Compass 4X4 for our replacement. It's a good vehicle, and has more useable room and gets what the CRD should have in mpg.
    Hope this helps, let us know.

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