One of the first things everybody notices about the Liberty CRD is that it pulls grades with minimal downshift, depending on the combination of steepness and speed desired. Very often it will pull steep mountain highways at 60-70 MPH in high gear alone. This is the "Torque vs. Power" discussion all over again.
Sorry, but 55 won't do for me. I drive about 100 mi each day with 90% on the hiway. If I went 55 (or even 65) I would have more cars up my rear than a colonoscopy exam. I drive at about 75mph which puts the rpms at about 2200. I still get just under 24mpg. Even when I add some in town driving I'm still over 23. I realize its not 27 like some people get (my personal best was 27.5 during a trip on 2 lane roads in rural area with speed limit of 50), but I have to flow with traffic and am willing to trade the mpg for less time spent on the road. With diesel (at least for now) being 25 cents less per gallon than regular I can be somewhat smug.
I tried to do this again this morning on the way to work. I drive 31 miles one way to work all on flat ground, all highway. I set the cruise at 60 mph and using the "decel" button, I slowed down about 1 mph at a time. I could get between 56 and 57 mph with the tach just below 1700 rpm and one more tap at just over 55,the transmission downshifted (or TC unlocked) and the tach went to over 1900 rpm.
I know the BullyDog systems for the Cummins/Power Strokes do some really amazing things. Banks power systems gets a lot of performance and HP TQ increases. Anyone added some aftermarket Diesel Kits yet? Any Results?
I drove my new Liberty Diesel for the first time at night yesterday and noticed the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel do not light up. Are they supposed to ? If not come on DC get your act together they even light up on my old 1988 Bronco II. If so it looks like a trip to dealer is on order. Also if I am sitting still with constant pressure on the brake pedal it will slowly go to the floor. is this normal it stops fine with little pressure needed and it will hold itself in place it is just when I try I can force the pedal to the floor. I know diesels do not make vacuum but it looks like a normal master cylinder. My F250 has Hydro-boost brakes that are rock soid.Thanx in advance tom
It seems you have air in your brake line, or a leak somewhere. The brake fluid is not compressible to more than 2 per thousand (0.2%), so a normal brake pedal stays stiff up if the engine is off, stiff 1/2 way down when theHydro-boost comes into action.
Didn't know they had it out yet. My 2005 CRD hasn' run right since I brought it although this is expensive if it would fix mine and not void warrenty I might consider thanks for info. Everyone is talking about driveing 55, mine doesn't want to run around that speed.
There are a few web sites that explain how power is boosted. What we can connect directly without reprogramming the controller typically gives more fuel during the first 1/3rd of the rpm range, same amount between 1/3rd and 2/3rds, and finally a bit more at the end of the range. There is a bit of a controversy here since the egr valve is there to produce the equivalent of a rich mixture that you can get simply by adding this type of kit. I would go for it on a manual shift since we have no control over the automatic transmission controller that kills the effect of this increase of torque. It's not harmful for the engine to consume a bit more, it's the global heating process that's putting the pressure.
When I first got 2005 Jeep, the brake did feel like it wanted to go to floor since it was new and had disc on back I thought it was just different the 2002 Jeep Renegage that was traded in, it didn't feel this way. there might be a problem someone wrote in about replacing brake booster and sticking back brakes. I really hadn 't paid much attention to brake mostly have been trying to get mine to run, to me it felt like the engine didn't produce enought vaccumm, I don't know, I just the person dumb enough to buy one of these Jeeps, My wife reminds me all the time and besides that I the one who makes the 561.00 dollar payment
yes, the brake works that way I think. I have driven 4 CRD's specifically, and if sitting at a complete stop you can push the brake to the floor. This will seem normal to you after time. I returned mine and drove all of the others on the lot they were the same. When it was new it seemed weird. It now fells completely normal. And yes, I still dragged a 26 foot4800lb boat with it and had to stop as fast as possible and the brakes worked perfectly. I am at 8000 miles and still thrilled with the CRD.
Disadvantages to driving 55 : 0% fuel savings (your results may vary). More chance of getting pulled over for suspicion of DUI. Can sip so much coffee on your way to work that you're an utter idiot by the time you get there. Can't relax and listen to your favorite tunes because of all the horns blaring. Can wave at the gas guzzelling speeders as they pass you by, giving the finger.
In all seriousness, 58 MPH really sounds like "the groove" for our first of a kinds. I surely hope ours does not become perceived as an 'elitist-mobile', like the Volvo or Saab were in the past. Ugh!
Another problem with driving 55 is that after the vehicle is crushed from the rear by a semi, the diesel fuel will burn so hot your body can't be identified
"Another problem with driving 55 is that after the vehicle is crushed from the rear by a semi, the diesel fuel will burn so hot your body can't be identified"
If you're burnin' biodiesel or straight SVO, you'll have a deep fried death.
Cremated in cookin' ole.
Why do they call them semis? Where's the other half?
I have been lurking in the back ground for about a month, bought my CRD about six weeks ago. I found some useful info. CRD now has about 3500 miles on it, best milage so far is 26mpg. I will try the 1800 rpm, 58 mph and see if that helps on my 35 mile commute to work. Up and down a large mountain and part interstate highway. I have noticed it gets better milage in the afternoons (90F) rather than the mornings (70F). Anyone got any ideas on that?
Anyone know the Mopar number for the Liberty CRD air filter.My dealers parts dept tells me it is the same filter as the 3.7L Gas engine.I don't believe that,but then again, I have been wrong before.......Taking the little devil down to Mexico for the winter. Regards Narovers
I spoke to these people yesterday. They want $695 for the device. They claim that fuel economy will improve or be unchanged They claim power improvements of 60 HP and 90 LB-FT of torque. They state they modify the injection pattern (sequence) to get more power out of the engine. They also reduce exhaust gas temperatures a little bit too, so they claim.
I'm curious. I'm considering buying one but only if some big numbers can be obtained like some of the other big numbered diesels that have a Cummins or Powerstroke under the hood. I'm crazy and wouldn't mind trying to get 600 lb ft of tq. out of a Liberty. Was wondering if anyone has done any mods and the kind of results to expect. $695 is a lot for modest gains. I like hearing from actual people like the ones on this board, not the manufactueres claims.
I don't know how far it has gone with the light on , but once I pulled into the gas station with the " Miles to empty " readout saying "0" . It took 20.52 gallons to fill it and fortunately I didn't experience any problems . I'm not going to make a habit of pushing my luck .
Since the CRD has not been around all that long, I am curious about how owners will be able to maintain their vehicles over the long term. Will they be able to replace typical wear items like hoses, belts, that big battery, and the like without having to go back to the dealer?
My low fuel light came on today for the first time. I put 18.5 gallons in, I think the tanks is just over 20 gallons. That work out to 23.2 MPG highway, with small utility trailer in tow. I try to fill up at 1/4 tank mark, at least normally. I also used a different brand this tank. With BP I got 28.2 MPG. Has anyone else noticed a mileage difference with different brands?
I went to the Whaler form on above link, they this the price of fuel is going to come down when the "other refineries" get back on-line...don't hold your breath these prices are here to stay. Somebody has to pay for the exploration in Alaska (the great energy bill), and it will not be the oil companies. Oh by the way the Alaskan oil belongs to the people of the USA, which we will buy back from the oil companies.
Please be careful with anything from Dr. Performance. They used to be in Kellogg ID and you may want to check with the BBB before buying products. As an alternative, I ran across http://www.dieseltuning.com/index_eng.html but have not bought anything yet. I'm waiting to hear from someone who has tried their products.
Ha ha ..funny 1 ... All CRD's may not be equal. Programming differences in cruise controls, Rear end gearing may be different than a standard 3:55.Could it be a 3:73,or a 4:11?
Different brand of tires or tire pressure could be a factor.
Anyways I can't see how 1 mph could change mileage that much .
Here is to hoping that you enjoy the same mileage that , I have been getting at or around that speed . You will see results from a full tank of fuel ... , Go ahead give it a try , using the digital odometer . travel at 65-70 mph on your trip till it is at 1/4 tank. Then after the next fill up , Travel at 55mph- 56 mph till at a 1/4 .
Planning to make a trip to the local "auto recyling" yard to find some used rims w/ or w/o tires to use for mud and hauling firewood. Can anyone provide me with what other brand / model wrecked vehicles to look for compatible rims on ? Much appreciated !
I am interested in seeing if you noticed any increase in HP and better fuel mileage. I used an K&N air filter on my old E-150 351 gas engine and had good results. More power and increased mileage by 2mpg. Thanks.
As it kept happening I noticed that it would also occur without applying the brakes. It stopped doing it about 10 days ago. Had it at the dealer today, they checked all the brakes and said there was a friction something or other in the rear axle that needs to fill up on lower mileage libertys (mine has 4100 miles) and it will sound like grinding after it sits. They indicated this was pretty common and would go away. In any case it hasn't happened in a while -- before it would only happen if I let it sit in the garage over the weekend.
Don't know if thats the whole story, but mine went away on its own.
I have a 2005 liberty crd. The trans control modual went bad, unit was stuck in one gear. Think it was 3rd. took jeep into dealer for service. took over a week to get a control mod, when they installed it, they re flashed the computer to the new up dated changes. Now the shift patterns are different, the torque converter use to lock up at 58 mph and now locks up at 63 mph. I want the original back but the dealer said they only have the up dated flash program. Does any one have any info on re programing lock up at a lower speed for better mpg. now at 57 mph the torque converter unlocks and this has a negative effect on fuel mileage.
I checked on my yet to be delivered jeep and noticed the differential was 3:73 which says standard on the sport. Why are some different? Is it due to wheel size between the sport and others. I worry now about this effecting the mileage overal. Or does having the trailer pkg change things. BR
I looked the gearing on jeep.com. It looks like 3:55 is standard and 3:73 is optional. I wonder if I am reading the spec's correctly. I would think the 3:55 would be a better choice if you have the choice for gas mileage and you can drive faster than 55mph and still get decent milage
Perhaps someone smarter than me can interpret this. Would the two ratios give similar mileage in under 55 mph and a disparity when at highway speeds. I had a high ratio in an astro van for towing and for some odd reason did better mileage on the highway than the 3:55, or am I just hoping this will hold true here?
Diesel and gas engines are different. You mentioned your astro van V6 gas motor is the only engine that I know of in the astro van. Diesels make there horse power and there torque at low end, they DONOT like to rev up .Gas engines make there horsepower and torque at higher rpm's notice the redline on a gas verses a diesel engines. I am not an expert this is just my personal experience.
Definitely go with a 3:55 rear end. A good all purpose rear end.
Although the 3:73 is a beefier gear, for offroad ,and towing power. You won't see much difference in mileage as long as , you take your time, and stay at 55 - 56 mph. Keep those rpm's down below 2000.
If you find that you are towing alot, treat it like a race car,this is hard on the rear end.
Make sure to change the rear end dope , tranny filter and fluid every 2 years.This will help mileage and longevity.
I never had a problem with my Gr.Cherrokee 3:55 rear end. Towed many a miles with it,and not one breakdown.
What was the solution to the rear brakes rubbing/growling first thing in the morning?
I don't know what the solution is, but I thought mine was doing it this afternoon, but it turned out my son had left his Power Wheel Jeep behind the jeep and I backed into it and drug it for 10 feet. I was worried for a second there.
I must have missed most of the discussions on this rear brake noise - mine does it only as I back out of the garage first thing in the morning. If I gently touch the brake peddle the sound goes away. Chrysler informed me ( via an email answer ) that this noise was nothing to be concerned about - so I'm not! I never here it again after I have driven a few miles. I now back my vehicle into the garage and drive directly out in the morning - never hear the brake noise when I do this. I just can not figure out what causes the noise - and why driving, or "warming" the barkes has to do with a "clanking" sound - but if Chrysler says it's normal - why worry about it? My dealer knows about it - and has informed me that if a bulletin comes out on it, he will let me know.
On US CRD Libertys, there are no gearing options. All come standard with 3.73:1 gear ratios; no 3.55s are available. There have, from time to time, been errors in Jeep brochures and on the Jeep website that led people to think otherwise...but only 3.73s are available.
Thanks for that info. It makes sense as I did not ask for any changes. I was just concerned that I get good economy and in fact did look up their web page. They do give options for three ratio's depending on model. Again, I appreciate this.
My noise started at about 2000 miles and has gotten somewhat worse, now at 3500 miles. Definitely happens only after backing out of garage (after sitting overnight) when going forward again. Will continue for about 100 yards or so. It started during a trip so I stopped at a dealer and their certified mechanic told me he thought it was the clutches in the differential and not to worry about it. Fluid level was full though he said I might have the differential serviced at my local dealer. The local dealer found nothing wrong though they couldn't duplicate the sound, and said it didn't need servicing until 15k miles. The service advisor said his Dodge Dakota does the same thing. I'll be interested in any further reports about this issue. Vehicle built in 05-05 and is wonderful otherwise.
The Chrysler dealer here in Edmonton,Alberta has now racked up 22+ days on the vehicle trying to find out what is causing the Engine Light to stay on, and replacing appror $5000.00 cdn in parts god knows how many hours of labor. Waiting for a EGR valve gasket as parts only ordered the valve itself. Vehicle sitting behind dealer collecting dust at this time......... Anybody else out there with same issue ?? :confuse:
I think there is only one gear ratio in Europe as well. The engine is at it's best at 2000 rpm, and you need the standard gears to be cruising at 55-60 mph and get the best mileage. Smaller tire size (225 instead of 235) made no difference to mileage figures, but the K&N filter and the cold weather affected my figures by almost 10%. This truck is still at the top of it's category.
I had a similar problem. Engine Light on and lack of power and smoking even when the engine was warm. The dealer replaced the EGR Valve and reprogrammed the onboard computer with a download from Chysler. That was about 5k miles ago and it has been smooth sailing ever since.
I had the same problem with my 05' I bought in May. It took the dealer 3 attempts to find that it was the EGR Valve. The parts were backordered and it took another week to get the part in store, That was at around 5,000 miles, I am now at about 9,000 and haven't had any problems since....other than that unfortunate problem I love the vehicle.
I had my EGR replaced and then had the engine light come on immediately with a boost escaping noise. They originally, after doing a bunch of pressure drop readings, said the problem as diagnosed by DC was that a "water pipe" needed replacing. I got the vehicle back and it is OK but it looks like they replaced gaskets and fixed a leak in the intake manifold gasket. Everything seems OK although the turbine sounds different.
Comments
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DR-PERFORMANCE-Pred-For-2005-06-Jeep-Liberty-Diesel_W0QQcmd- - ZViewItemQQcategoryZ33597QQitemZ7999390125
I know the BullyDog systems for the Cummins/Power Strokes do some really amazing things. Banks power systems gets a lot of performance and HP TQ increases. Anyone added some aftermarket Diesel Kits yet? Any Results?
Diesel Vs. Hybrid
CRDeviant
0% fuel savings (your results may vary).
More chance of getting pulled over for suspicion of DUI.
Can sip so much coffee on your way to work that you're an utter idiot by the time you get there.
Can't relax and listen to your favorite tunes because of all the horns blaring.
Can wave at the gas guzzelling speeders as they pass you by, giving the finger.
In all seriousness, 58 MPH really sounds like "the groove" for our first of a kinds. I surely hope ours does not become perceived as an 'elitist-mobile', like the Volvo or Saab were in the past. Ugh!
If you're burnin' biodiesel or straight SVO, you'll have a deep fried death.
Cremated in cookin' ole.
Why do they call them semis? Where's the other half?
Regards
Narovers
http://continuouswave.com/cgi-bin/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&forum=ContinuousWave:+The- +Whaler+GAM+or+General+Area&number=1&DaysPrune=&LastLogin=
In cold winter weather, expect your economy to drop off. This is normal for a diesel.
Trying to be greedy and extend the time between filling up.
CRDeviant
LK
I went to the Whaler form on above link, they this the price of fuel is going to come down when the "other refineries" get back on-line...don't hold your breath these prices are here to stay. Somebody has to pay for the exploration in Alaska (the great energy bill), and it will not be the oil companies. Oh by the way the Alaskan oil belongs to the people of the USA, which we will buy back from the oil companies.
Good luck!
All CRD's may not be equal.
Programming differences in cruise controls,
Rear end gearing may be different than a standard 3:55.Could it be a 3:73,or a 4:11?
Different brand of tires or tire pressure could be a factor.
Anyways I can't see how 1 mph could change mileage that much .
Here is to hoping that you enjoy the same mileage that , I have been getting at or around that speed .
You will see results from a full tank of fuel ...
,
Go ahead give it a try ,
using the digital odometer .
travel at 65-70 mph on your trip till it is at 1/4 tank.
Then after the next fill up ,
Travel at 55mph- 56 mph till at a 1/4 .
Good luck..
_______________________________________
I used an K&N air filter on my old E-150 351 gas engine and had good results. More power and increased mileage by 2mpg.
Thanks.
tidester, host
It stopped doing it about 10 days ago. Had it at the dealer today, they checked all the brakes and said there was a friction something or other in the rear axle that needs to fill up on lower mileage libertys (mine has 4100 miles) and it will sound like grinding after it sits. They indicated this was pretty common and would go away. In any case it hasn't happened in a while -- before it would only happen if I let it sit in the garage over the weekend.
Don't know if thats the whole story, but mine went away on its own.
Although the 3:73 is a beefier gear, for offroad ,and towing power.
You won't see much difference in mileage as long as ,
you take your time, and stay at 55 - 56 mph.
Keep those rpm's down below 2000.
If you find that you are towing alot, treat it like a race car,this is hard on the rear end.
Make sure to change the rear end dope , tranny filter and fluid every 2 years.This will help mileage and longevity.
I never had a problem with my Gr.Cherrokee 3:55 rear end.
Towed many a miles with it,and not one breakdown.
Speak Soon
Lightnin3
I don't know what the solution is, but I thought mine was doing it this afternoon, but it turned out my son had left his Power Wheel Jeep behind the jeep and I backed into it and drug it for 10 feet. I was worried for a second there.
I had a similar problem. Engine Light on and lack of power and smoking even when the engine was warm. The dealer replaced the EGR Valve and reprogrammed the onboard computer with a download from Chysler. That was about 5k miles ago and it has been smooth sailing ever since.
Will