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Comments
CR seems to be the only ones who got that kind of fuel economy.
I have a little over 6K on my 2005 CRD. If I do 80% city driving and the rest highway, I get about 19 mpg give or take a few tenths. If I do straight highway, and keep it at 65 mph, I get a touch over 28 mpg. If I keep the speed at about 60 mph, the economy jumps to nearly 30 mpg. I still have another two - four thousand to go before the engine is really broken it.
Also, I don't think that DCX recommends a winch a for the KJ either.
Do as you wish, I just wouldn't.
Dealer has loosened the hand brake, and checked all other specs.
Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what did you do to solve the tightness of the brakes in cold weather?
I don't know how CR came up with those figures, but they don't jibe with the mileage that I'm getting.
I've got an '05 Liberty Sport (05/05 build date) that's got 1300K on it. It's been averaging a little over 23 MPG in mixed city/highway driving since I bought it. IMO, not too shoddy for a 4X4 SUV! I'll be putting it on the road for a 2K round trip tomorrow morning to TN. I'll post the fuel mileage on my return.
PS.
I'd put more faith in the information that you get on this board than what you got out of one magazine article.
Just my .02 cents!
Since the EGR valve was on order, I picked up the vehicle later that evening to drive until the part comes in. I figured I'd just bite the bullet on the lousy mileage for a few more days.
Yesterday morning, the darn coolant light stayed on again, only going out after the vehicle was completely warmed up and the temp needle was at the half-way mark. It never went past the half-way point so I wasn't too worried about overheating.
I checked the coolant level yesterday evening and it was down to HALF of what it should be, so I took it straight to the dealer this morning. They pressure-tested the system and found that the coolant reservoir had SPLIT AT THE SEAMS! They think it was a result of the extra pressure caused by the failing EGR valve. They're having a new coolant reservoir over-nighted so hopefully it and the new EGR valve will arrive at the same time. I certainly don't want to drive it until they install the EGR valve for fear that the coolant reservoir will split again!
Has anyone else had this happen?
Peggy
CR says that Liberty CRD is one of the misses of 2005. Noisy, slow and poor mpg.
Consumer Reports got it wrong!
Liberty will deliver it's fuel economy rating of 21/26 and will exceed it if driven to maximize mileage.
Acceleration test results show it to be faster, the same, or a bit slower than V6 gas version of Liberty depending on who is testing it.
Noise, OK, I will concede that while the CRD is acceptable to me, it could be a bit quieter and I've driven quieter diesels in Europe.
If I subscribed to CR I would cancel!
Also, check out my post regarding "Coolant Level & EGR Failure." Very scarry to think that a failed EGR valve can cause your coolant reservoir to crack at the seams!
Peggy in Houston
I read your post and am trying to figure out how the malfunction of the exhaust gas recovery valve could cause such an increase in pressure in your cooling system that it could blow the side out of the overflow tank. Are you sure that your service department wasn't talking about two totally unrelated (but coincidental) issues?
I posted in another Jeep forum day before yesterday and got a reply that in order to install the new EGR valve that they have to drain the coolant. Why, I don't know. That's why when the service manager told me that the problem might have been caused by the failing EGR valve, I thought it sounded plausible.
I don't know. Maybe there is some sort of coolant jacket through which the recirculated exhaust gas is routed. I guess I need to start looking around and see how these boogers are put together. It sounds like a plumber's nightmare to me!
When we took it in the other day and were chit-chatting with the service manager (before the coolant problem was diagnosed), he was saying that the 2005 CRD's are basically an "experimental vehicle" and that Jeep is still working out all of the kinks. LESSON LEARNED: Never again will I be a guinea pig for a first-year vehicle!
What do service managers know. This engine has been in service for about 10yrs in Europe but is configured as a 2.5L displacement. The fuel system is standard CR as is the variable pitch turbocharger.
Now the difference: this engine would be tuned and modified (EGR added for NOX control)for North American EPA standards. This will/does require the EGR being changed out plus the computer re programmed--no big deal. Lets get a grip--eh. The world is not coming to an end.
Westie
As to the ruptured overflow tank, make sure the head gasket is not blown.. Very unlikely, but possible. Sounds more like a bad tank to me.
Just for the record, I did increase power service amount, made a trip down 131 for a two hour trip and got 27 mpg on trip comp. Filled up down there and used smaller amount on return trip and saw 25 mpg. On first leg it did the same at 60 as 70. On return was worse at 70. This with 2500 miles on truck. Happy traveling. BR
I failed to mention my CRD is a 2005, so that TSB may not apply. I experienced the shifting problem again today, the first real cold day. At highway speed it took about a mile to shift into top gear. I mentioned this to my mechanic a few weeks ago. He attributed it to colder weather, which does seem to trigger the problem. Just wondering if the TSB you mention would fix this problem.
ON the EGR valve, Yes it is water cooled. I have a power point presentation on the motor that was given to Jeep Engineering.
We love it and have had absolutely no problems, I would like to get a CRD and enjoy the kind of mileage we get from her 13 year Honda Civic. I have a few questions:
How is parts (EGR) availability?
Are the dealers turning this problem around reasonably fast considering they probably know to expect it by now?
Is there anyone that has had the EGR replaced been back for another one? In other words does DCX have a handle on this, ans replacing bad part with good??
Last question, anybody broken one in say 20-30K miles and if so wht kind of MPG are you getting now compared to new? -Spin
Narovers in Kino Bay Mex.
The TSB that I had done to my CRD was to prevent the fluid from draining out of the torque converter. The TSB is a different filter in the return line. I would be concerned about running a "dry" TC, the fluid is the only lubrication source for the bearings. The "pause time" while the TC is refilling could slowly cause bearing damage, thus TC failure. I would also believe increase operational tempature, as the bearing would run hotter due to damage. According to some engineers at Modine (they make the cooling system) the TC is the single largest heat source on the vehicle.
I put a set of knobby LT195-85R16's on Libby and now she looks like a soap box derby racer. What 2 do ???? Is it possible, if I put a snowplow on the front, it'll hide how ridiculous she (and me) look now ?
Also, has anyone low-rided their's yet... er..... besides me?
Farout
Farout
When I picked up the Jeep they had a seal on the oil fill cap and dip stick. They said I was selected to do an oil test for 1000 miles and they would change the oil at 5400 miles for free. Anyone else had this happen?
Farout
Farout
I called CR and was treated not only rude but the person said they have very strick standards they use and they (CR) will not recheck their tests. This proves to me CR has a bias, and is not up to the high standards they claim. They also list the Dodge Neon as only getting 24 mpg. I have had three and none of then got much less than 28 to 32 mpg! I canceled my support of CR!
Farout
At this point, all I can say is, "come on, August 2006 and a Dodge Nitro with a 3.7 V6!"
Do they have a bias toward Japanese products? Hard to say. Do they read this forum? Probably not. Many of their findings are generally contradicted by owners in this forum. I do not place any value in their evaluations. Better than half the time they are wrong about many things.
Next, the CRD does not require much right foot to get it to move. A light right foot works best with this engine. You have more than adequate torque to get you where you need to go. On acceleration from a stop, try not to exceed 2700 RPM. There is really no need to go beyond that. I rarely need to use the passing gear. A steady slow increase of right foot on the accelerator pedal yields some pretty interesting results, especially in top gear on the highway. Do not drive this engine like a gasser. You do not need to wind the dickens out this engine to make things happen.
Check the build date and have the dealer check to make sure brakes are not binding. This occurred in early builds.
Use an additive in your fuel to keep the injectors and combustion chamber clean. Add a cetane improver if need be. This engine is designed to run on ULSD with a cetane of at least 51. Check your oil level. This engine will use a quart of oil in the first 1000 miles so make sure it is full. Once ULSD is on the market, many if not most of the EGR issues should go by the wayside.
One last thing, is to see if there are any codes stored in the OBDII system. There is an earlier post that describes how to make the codes appear on the odometer. If there are no codes stored, it will just say done.
We have had (2) days of teen tempature, starts easily, take a long time to warm-up, maybe cause for lower mileage.
Noticed a couple of what I'll call miss-fire when running. :sick: Oil change soon, I'll
I this area I have not seen another CRD on the road, but I know there are (6) around here.
thanks
It's kind of stupid for a car company to sell a car that doesn't match the fuel available in the country. It should not be a requirement to augment the fuel you purchase at the pump. You should be able to just put the fuel in and go.
I drive slow and the vehicle runs just fine. I've been following the advice I've seen in this forum to let her warm for 30 seconds before taking off and letting her purr for another 30 seconds before i shut it off. I want that turbo to hold up a long long time.