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Comments
The only time I've ever suffered sidewall damage was while off-roading (sliced tire on a rock). Somehow I doubt that will be a problem with a Sienna. All other flats I've encountered in my 27 years of driving have been due to either a nail/screw/brad in the tread. Your argument regarding fixing the runflats being more complicated was also voiced back in the late '60s early '70s when steel belted radials started to supplant bias ply tires. Are you suggesting we go back to bias plys?
The other type of sidewall damage is generally confined to impacts against curbs. The stronger sidewall in runflats should actually help to prevent this from being a problem. Stronger sidewall = more resistant to sidewall damage. Common sense.
But, if you desire the peace of mind that comes from having a spare, feel free to lug one around in the storage well behind the back seat.
Perhaps you could arrange a trade with someone here at Edmunds: straight up trade between your set of 4 17" rims w/ runflats in exchange for their 16" rims w/ standard tires + donut. If I had a Sienna, I'd make you that offer in a heartbeat.
At first radials had their critics too and it was said they had crooked belts, looked flat, etc...the future arrived anyway...
If you don't like 'em, don't buy 'em, don't buy the Sienna equipped that way, no whinning necessary. Hold out as long as you can, it doesn't matter to me.
I'm glad my wife has them (and VSC) on her XLE AWD '04 Sienna - and a AAA plus card. She isn't changing the tire no matter WHAT kind it is anyway.
The size of the temporary spare is T155/80 R17. Caculated RR is 97% of the standard tire but at 60 psi it probably deflects less with weight, so the operating RR is probably identical. (In case anyone else besides me was wondering)
My (12/03) owner's manual states: "The compact spare tire can be used many times, if necessary. It has tread life of up to 4800 km (3000 miles) ... When tread wear indicators appear on the tire, replace the tire."
For those considering buying the temporary spare tire be forewarned it costs about the same as the standard runflat. And you still have to buy the rim.
mohammsa, my DRL's come on when I release the parking brake, so there is a switch in the system that might not be working on yours.
<lurking>
But.
Last week my 93 Ford ranger locked up in two gears, blocking traffic and AAA said would hurry. After about half an hour I called wife to bring tools so I could drop the driveshaft. Before an hour was up my wife arrived, I dropped the driveshaft and a patrolman pushed me into a vacant parking lot. Called AAA and cancelled at ~90 minutes.
New Year's eve My daughter/kids/husband started out to Mission Ridge, from Seattle eastside, for skiing. Their Chrysler AWD Minivan quit on I90 near the top of the pass. They called AAA. Two hours later the tow truck showed up.
235/60/16 tires I had put on the Chrysler would not allow for snowchains so they changed out to 225/60/16 only on the front. Seemingly not too much variation F/R for VC type AWD but....
Car smelled like methane, strongly, afterward, anyone experienced VC failure that resulted in methane odor?
These days there are only two more common types of AWD (full-time 4WD), the ones with an open center diff'l using the brakes to limit tire slippage and apportion engine torque, and the one's using some form of VC, viscous clutch.
With the first it will be a function of the Trac ECU firmware which determines the allowable tire circumference variation F/R. With a VC it will be the makeup of the fluid itself that is the determining factor.
The designers in either case must allow for a reasonable level of unequal tire wear F/R. The Chrysler, for instance, drives the front axle directly and the rear axle through a VC. So in most cases since the rear tires will be there only to prop up the vehicle the front tires would incur a higher wear rate.
But what level is acceptable and/or for how long?
The bottom line is that no one should ever intentionally install F/R tires of differing circumference on any AWD/4WD vehicle.
Can you harm anything in the powertrain? If not, then what are the advantages of using premium grade--better mileage, better acceleration...?
"OCTANE RATING
Select Octane Rating 87 (Research Octane Number 91) or higher. For improved vehicle performance, the use of premium unleaded gasoline with an Octane Rating of 91 (Research Octane Number 96) or higher is recommended.
Use of unleaded gasoline with an octane rating or research octane number lower than stated above will cause persistent heavy knocking. If it is severe, this will lead to engine damage.
If your engine knocks...
If you detect heavy knocking even when using the recommended fuel, or if you hear steady knocking while holding a steady speed on level roads, consult your
Toyota dealer.
However, occasionally, you may notice light knocking for a short time while accelerating or driving up hills. This is normal and there is no need for concern."
I believe the Odyssey manual states effectively the same thing.
The advantage of using premium is that the knock sensor system will not retard the ignition timing, reducing engine power. The most likely circumstance where you would see this is in hot weather, high elevation, or high load. So if you don't expect to be using it in those circumstances you can likely safely use regular. For the times you will be using it where highest performance will be needed guaranteed, use high test.
I think the ideal world is to get it from the manufacturer, but as you said, it's not offered! We didn't want the LE w/ a power door (big $$ for repairs), so the CE was the only option for us.
can someone who is using premium gas let me know what mileage they are getting? I would like to find out if it makes sense to use premium gas.
Thanks,
Thats one of the reason I do not want an LE is the power door. I figure if I keep the car 7 or 8 eight years it will break and need repairs. I got a price of 250 for the darker tint. I need to call a few more places or see if the dealer can do it for me. Has anyone purchased a CE 7 with option 3? What kind of deals have they gotten.
That being said, I have seen numerous instances where people swear they get better mileage. If you feel better about burning premium, go for it. However, the science leads me to believe that increased mileage is due to some other factor besides the switch to premium.
Tom
Not an argument for premium fuel, just an explanation.
Something like having a more flat, not "peaky" engine torque band, but measured in power stroke milliseconds not RPM.
The power door will be fine, be reliable (more resaleable) AND it's great to have!
I'll pay more in a heartbeat for a Toyota. I keep personal vehicles a long time and the reliability factor is worth it. You might also think about the other options an LE has that will make it more comfortable over the long haul.
In our courier business, we use nothing other than Toyota's and Honda's. No other vehicles consistantly give us reliability and resale at 300+ miles per day!
Oh...and they are American made.
My arms work just fine, thanks. The wife's arms work OK too. Manual doors are easy to close.
I'd rather have the money in my pocket for the initial purchase and eventual repair. I've never had a manual door fail.
The one real regret of the CE over LE was the tinted windows. We were told by the dealer that ALL CEs came with an option package, which meant they would all have roof racks (which we also wanted), so no issue there (that was the other "LE thing" we wanted).
And thereby gain the benefits of the LE trim line (if the additional features and feature differences are of a benefit to you).
Besides, why pay for something that I don't mind doing manually?
manual door = cheap, basically "unbreakable"
power door = expensive, unnecessary, breakable.
It's not in any way a benefit for me.
Fold down split rear seat = definite benefit
good gas mileage (for a big beast) = definite benefit
plenty of space = definite benefit (3 kids in a volvo wagon does not=fun)
I like the CE. very nice van for the money, strong competitor to Ody (better for me) LE and above just don't interest me.
AND
I've had manual doors (and windows!) fail on an old UAW built vehicle.
The power door has a safety device that prevents little hands from being slammed in the door and lockouts to keep things closed when moving, etc...If you want your child to be able to open the door once you are parked, they can with a button...only if you want them to.
I appreciate the spartan approach, I tend to drive my personal vehicles for 10+ years as well. But there's the penny-wise dollar foolish thing here. That many years with the van, I'd sure want the LE trim.
Our kids are extremely well behaved and listen well to directions - in particular the little one.
I don't think there is anything spartan about a manual door. Rather, I find the power door decadent. :-)
I say it's a safety necessity with little kids and it keeps my wife happy. If by having a power door on my minivan I'm labeled decadent by you and the neighbors, oh well. Ain't this the life! ??
I never thought of ANY minivan in terms of debauchery or extravagance. I wonder what the neighbors will think when I finally get a Lexus maybe when I turn 50? OR...what the heck...a nice new pickup with 4-WD costs large coin these days. Maybe I'll have to move to the "high-rent" district.
That's mostly because I discovered that I can drive 750 to 1000 miles a day, and that in two days, I can whisk my kids from Alabama to the Rocky Mtns. for an impromptu vacation.
Beware your 50th. My wife threw a nice party for me one night, and then the next night kicked me out of the house and I had to sleep in the woods with strange men and boys. (It was for a Boy Scout campout.)
link
Steve, Host
Dizzy
Thanks in advance
BTW, I have XLE AWD, package 14 if that helps.
You might want to question your dealer about the fact that the lights are supposed to automatically shut off after 30 mins and why didn't they turn off when they were supposed to.
Dizzy