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Comments
You ride as well, I presume?
Last week, when I returned from my Seattle trip, I proceeded to drive around town in my normal fashion using the last of the 2nd tank of gas from the trip.
I put about 40 more miles on when it came time to refill.
Strangely, when I did the fuel mileage for the total of both tanks of gas used on the trip, my mileage actually INCREASED to 25.2...
Odd, since I was moderately aggressive with acceleration.
(?)
Oh - I used "regular" (87 octane) gas for the 600 mile Seattle trip - VERY noticeable drop off in performance - Still "more than adequate", but well off the pace. No discernible knock or ping tho'.
Immediate and substantial improvement when i switched back to premium (91-92 octane, about $2.20-$2.40 in these parts).
I also reset the computer by leaving the battery disconnected (neg cable only) overnight. It feels like it's making more power than new now - Which makes sense for a number of reasons.
I did my first oil/filter change on the little beasty yesterday (2500 miles now). Piece of cake. Took about 15 minutes, mostly waiting for the oil to drain and cleaning up the oil pan and surroundings.
I used a Napa Gold filter ($6) and Castrol GTX (5/30).
Although I have a floor jack & 4 stands, I decided to just slide under and get it done. It's snug, but enough room to work - No lift needed.
While I'm on the subject, I thought I'd share my personal break-in and oil change philosophy:
For the first 500 miles or so, I drive moderately until the car is fully warm (I ALWAYS treat an engine moderately until FULLY warm), then a bit more aggressively for the rest of the day - max revs about 80% of redline, with moderate loading to seat the rings with compression. Occasional runs to about 5k rpm (+/-).
First oil/filter change at 500 miles.
I always let the dealer do the first change for a number of reasons:
1) Warranty concerns - It gives them a chance to look things over while they're under the hood, just in case.
2) If there's a problem, it's most likely to show up in the first 2500 miles, and this way, THEY would be the ones that first touched the car, and gurantees O.E.M. parts used.
3) They get to loosen up the drain plug, filter, etc.
500-1000 miles: A bit more aggressive in general, with more frequent forays above 5k rpm, and an occasional run to redline (under moderate loading). Maybe 3/4 throttle.
1000 miles+: Occasional WOT & hard acceleration, above 5k rpm as needed. More frequent redline.
2000 miles: WOT and max acceleration without concern - let it rev and work hard.
Next oil/filter change at 2500 miles - High quality filter, but still petroleum oil for break-in.
Next oil/filter at 5000 miles - Mobil-1 oil, and either Mobil-1, K&N, or Pure One filter.
That makes it easy to remember that oil/filter changes are now due every 5000 miles.
So: The O.E. "fish oil" in the crankcase gets about 500 miles, the next oil gets about 2000 miles, next about 2500 miles, then every 5000 miles (synthetic) thereafter.
I believe that an engine should be run fairly hard for best break-in, but that oil & filter changes should be early and often until fully broken in.
I'm even more diligent with motorcycles since they share the oil with the transmission - Changes are done at: 250, 1000, 2000, 3000, and every 3000 thereafter - Synthetic at 3000 miles and on.
I've used this method with many cars and bikes over the years, and I cannot recall ever having an engine that I broke in that used ANY oil between changes; I've always obtained better than rated fuel mileage, and excellent power.
FWIW - My R1 was dyno'd at 3000 miles, fully stock, and it put out 135 rwhp - The average for this bike is 131-133.
Also - FWIW - I've long noted somewhat better performance from all engines with the oil slightly lower than the "full" mark. A bit less windage drag in the crankcase I suspect.
A few other stray thoughts inspired by some posts here:
I wanted the huge factory sunroof, and was "forced" to take the leather.
I was reluctant since I have a toddler and a dog.
The leather has turned out to be easier to clean than a cloth interior.
I also use Lexol cleaner & conditioner (about 1x/month for now) - I've used it for years for motorcycle leathers with excellent results.
I may always get a leather interior from now on.
I removed the crossbars for quiet and appearance - Can't say that it's had any effect on fuel mileage.
I've also had the coolant odor since new - I work with the techs at my dealership, and they assure me it's normal withh all the new Subbie turbos - It "should" go away on it's own. No noticeable drop in coolant level tho'...
I had the compass mirror in my last Sub (dealer installed) - I miss it, but I am contemplating a GPS unit - I do quite a bit of "adventure driving", i.e. - Better have a compass and a gas can!
I have no input about the sunroof deflector - I had considered it, but I decided that I really like the wide open blue sky when I look up, and the deflector would eliminate the first 6-8 inches of openness.
I am considering the bug/rock deflector tho' - I got 3 new windshield chips in one 600-mile trip.
Anyone ever use the side window deflectors?
I'm considering them since I like to drive with the windows cracked open a bit for the baby and the dog.
I wish the Forester had pop-out rear side windows for the dog.
*Sorry for the long post(s) - I get a bit long-winded sometimes!
I hope folks are getting some value from it tho'.
(about $4000?)
My dream bike has long been a Merlin - I'm sure you know the connection.
I'm pretty happy with my Bianchi for now - Boron steel, with full Campy Chorus and Campy Proton wheelset, fully handmade in Bianchi's Reparto Corsa (race shop).
My dealer (a few years ago) found an actual Bianchi boron steel fork from a source in Italy, which I wanted for the ride quality and traditional appearance.
All steel, and all Italian.
Oh - And Celeste color as well - If it's a Bianchi, it should be Celeste!
My C-Dales are my thrashers - Great fun trying to break them! (haven't yet...)
*Sorry for the off-topic discussion everyone!
Elissa
Thanks,
Jim
Elissa
Thanks, Scott
John
pitbull, r464- It's an Axiom Steel. I get it tomorrow, finally. Color is close to Celeste actually. I'm getting Centaur with Kyserium wheels. Hopefully not $4k, but yea, in the zip code. More money than I've ever spent on anything outside the house and car. I've paid my dues riding my $600 MTB on the road all summer though- to prove to myself I really love the ride and can justify spending the dough on a bike to last a lifetime.
I looked at the sway bar and encountered a lot of difficulty trying to remove it from the end links (which are also pretty bad). How did you remove it without crushing the boots on the end links?
Best "idea" for an extended mat into rear passenger compartment would be to buy a "supersized" roll of non-slip shelf liner at Costco (it is extra wide and long and is rubberized and has "waffle holes". It isn't waterproof, though, but it a good protector and is VERY effective in keeping things from sliding around. I bought the Subaru Accessory Mat for the rear (I had a few extra free SubyBucks) and was surprised to see that it was exactly this same stuff when I received it (mail order).
Some say FXT will never handle like WRX/STi. Well, you'd be surprised how well FXT does with Plus Sized tires and the rear STi Anti Swaybar!!! Sure, without lowering (which would prevent 4x4 FXT from doing much offroad) they are not a good match. But I find my mod FXT handles much like my Miata; so I'd be surprised to hear that an FXT with these mods is still not up to staying with the WRX crowd in the twisties.
My favorite bike (I own quite a few):
http://birdy.foldabikes.com/images/birdfold.ram?IE
Bob
John
-Dennis
Regards,
Jim
We would really appreciate a answer, as we are ready to order the Forester with options.
Thanks,
Donluce
Mine hood protector is the same shade - I think they only come in one color. Glad you managed to get that thing on. *whew* The XT looks kinda stylin' with it I think. Not to mention, my hood looks free from chips. It may not look like it does much but believe me, if you saw a hood after 50K miles that DIDN'T have one you'd be glad you got yours!
Donluce,
I suspect that folks on this board don't have experience with the moon roof air deflector and are perhaps a tiny bit put off by reading the same question across several threads several times. Because the Forester's moon roof doesn't have a tilt and it comes with it's own air deflector, there's little reason for Forester owners to buy a $75 part for that. I suggest you ask you question of the Legacy or Outback boards. I can say that my husband bought the air deflector for his CR-V and the net effect was to reduce sun glare and reduce passage through the roof (like if you wanted to stand up or reach through the moon roof, now there's less room). As for wind noise, I doubt it helped much.
Ed: not cardboard, but maybe felt? I used some of those self-stick pads made for furniture legs. They are durable and they stick and stay on.
Diffy plug size? IIRC it was 17mm. Maybe 19mm. Standard ratchet socket. It's been a couple of months.
-juice
Nope, it's a huge T70 Torx (see my post 5367). Just go out and by your FXT and you'll find out. ;-)
-Dennis
-Dennis
-Frank
- turn on your A/C at least once a month to lubricate the motor, even if it's not hot out.
- don't run your gas tank down to empty, you run the risk of damaging fuel injectors, pumps, filters, causing a misfire, engine damage and catalytic converter damage.
- etc etc...
Elissa
-Frank
-Dennis
-mike
Actually now that I think about it mine might have been a straight 1/2" drive. I should check.
I'm sure that Mustang has EXTREMELY tall overdrive gearing. It would require a down shift to pass anything, though.
The Forester is geared for immediate passing power.
I believe the 6MT Corvette gets high 20s highway mileage also, with a 6th gear ratio around 0.50:1.
Corvette has that annoying 1st-to-4th skip-shift features to avoid a gas guzzler tax. So does the Viper. I don't think the Mustang gets it.
Any how, I was disappointed to hear the Mustang will keep its live rear axle. I guess it'll continue to go fast only in a straight line.
-juice
-mike
Bad news: I spent a good portion of that tankful crawling from Exit 7 to Exit 18E on the NJTP at an average speed of 30 mph. >:-( The rest of it was spent on I-80 and some two-lane backroads in western NJ/eastern PA.
Ed
2004 XT 5-speed.
Ed
I own an '05 FXT - manual and I just got back from vacationing in Lake Placid. I live in NJ which if you drive a Subaru you are pretty much one of the few(and proud) but in Lake Placid almost every other car is a Sub. Anyway, the point of my post is that on my way up averaging about 67mph I got 27mpg. That was using the cruise control most of the way - every chance I had. On the back I stayed at the same speed and was also using cc and obtained just over 28mpg. I couldn't believe it. We also got off a few times, once at the Lake George region and the other looking for a McDonalds way off the beaten path. I have been getting ~24mpg while driving thru the towns and shopping. I am very impressed with the gas mileage. I also have only been using premium gas. Trying to keep down the zoom zoom but sometimes letting it rip - which scares my wife and amuses me to no end.
Regards,
Jim
perfect the entire trip..
Deadeye
My XT would slip into neutral when coasting at highway speeds. THAT IS DANGEROUS! I went to SOA and after my third trip to the dealer told SOA I wouldn't drive that car again...even with a new transmission. I didn't feel comfortable paying new car prices for a car that had a transmission rebuilt in a mechanic's stall shortly after purchase. There's no way it's to factory spec. You're the customer and you have rights. Get some info on your local state laws and be firm and communicate well on what you need to feel safe in your new (or in my case replacement) car. Good luck!
That's why they say YMMV.
-juice
Should this sort of corroboration continue, I may just considering diverting my Naval Reserve savings/car purchase account from the Forester X to the Forester XT. Good info Senor Bird....
Anyone else? all the best, ez
If it weren't for the bikes (wind drag), I'm sure the MPG would have been slightly better.
My highest MPG ever was 24.8, lowest 19.8.
2004 XT 5-sp.
I'm at just over 37,000 miles now, fuel economy pretty much stabilized after around 15,000 miles. My normal commute is around 70% highway/30% stop & go, that nets me at 22-23 mpg...
My trailer is well equiped, with a load distributing hitch, anti-sway bar, and surge activated hydrolic disk brakes. Hitch weight is 250lbs.
On looking for information about the XT Forester, I found that in Australia, the maxium recommended trailer weight that can be towed with a trailer with brakes is 2000kg(4400lbs), in New Zealand it is 1800kg(3960lbs), and in the United Kingdom and Europe, it is 1500kg(3300lbs).
John
Bob
-juice