By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
-Frank
The XT might have been sold already, as I don't see it listed in the dealer inventory anymore. that would be a load off my back.
How about those aftermarket additions. Got any ideas?
-Olga
John
-Frank
elissa
I like to thank all who have helped with my questions over the passed 2 weeks.
I took the plunge and purchased a black FXT premium w/manual tranny with almost all the goodies(splash guards, rear spoiler; tinting I had done outside the dealer as suggested here - great savings). The car hmm SUV rocks. This thing can move but my first tank of gas moved too. I think I actually saw the gage go down. Worth it though - what a rush. I still need to get used to stick shift - it has been 10 years since I drove one with any consistancy. Stalled twice at a light - always from neutral to 1st. Have to pay attention to the kick in the new clutch.
One thing I noticed while I am trying to be good on gas mileage with the 2nd tank is RPMs at 65mph is ~2700 in 5th gear. Is anybody getting different? Feels like I should shift to 6th (of course there is no 6th gear) to lower it to 23-2400 like my wifes chevy cavelier. That has got to eat at the gas.
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
What's AWD when your wheels with the power can't hold the road and slip?
Well AWD by itself isn't going to turn you into a race car driver and if you're driving style is such that you need it in such circumstances then you're probably better off with a true perfromance car like the WRX STi ;-)
-Frank
Thanks for the quick reply.
By tire slippage, I didn't mean from to much torque or at least I don't think the comments were about that. I thought they were referring to handleing on slippery or dry pavement while cornering or emergency handleing.
It is really fun learning to drive stick again.
By the way does it void the manufacturers warranty if you use a Cobb AccessPort?
Thanks,
Jim
By the way, if I purchased in N.H. wouldn't I have to pay sales tax when I registered it in NY?
Keeping the dream alive,
Dan
Almost forgot, you obviously haven't yet experienced the joy of a 4-wheel drift while powering through a turn. Now that's what AWD is all about!
-Frank
Typically, yes. But you wouldn't pay sales tax in NH on a car that was being titled in NY.
Tim
Being happy with an XT will cost you less than being unhappy with an XS model that you later trade-in on an XT.
-juice
-Jim
"At the first bend, I had the clear sensation that Tazio had taken it badly and that we would end up in the ditch; I felt myself stiffen as I waited for the crunch. Instead, we found ourselves on the next straight with the car in a perfect position. I looked at him, his rugged face was calm, just as it always was, and certainly not the face of someone who had just escaped a hair-raising spin. I had the same sensation at the second bend. By the fourth or fifth bend I began to understand; in the meantime, I had noticed that through the entire bend Tazio did not lift his foot from the accelerator, and that, in fact, it was flat on the floor. As bend followed bend, I discovered his secret. Nuvolari entered the bend somewhat earlier than my driver's instinct would have told me to. But he went into the bend in an unusual way: with one movement he aimed the nose of the car at the inside edge, just where the curve itself started. His foot was flat down, and he had obviously changed down to the right gear before going through this fearsome rigmarole. In this way he put the car into a four-wheel drift, making the most of the thrust of the centrifugal force and keeping it on the road with the traction of the driving wheels. Throughout the bend the car shaved the inside edge, and when the bend turned into the straight the car was in the normal position for accelerating down it, with no need for any corrections."
-Frank
Otherwise I like to have no wheel squeel at all.
-mike
Volkov
That can happen unintentionally, but it's fun whether it's intentional or not.
-juice
e
Hopefully it doesn't happen again in another 30k or so...
-juice
There was a lot of talk when the XT came out last year about the high-revving at highway speeds, but it's more from watching your tach than instinctive reactions via your seat or ears. If you are used to a domestic vehicle running at 1800 rpm on the interstate, the XT tach makes you nervous at first, but there is no real increase in drive train vibration or engine noise and fuel consumption is linear...the bigger problem at highway speeds is the somewht boxy shape of the FXT.
AFTER you get through your 1000 break-in miles,you will might find yourself on a deserted, straight road getting the tach close to redline as you upshift your way to the legal speed limit.....even then the car is amazingly free of drivetrain vibration and handling is predictable.
Mark
-Frank
It is peculiar, if 3,000 rpms is the most efficient rpm then I would have thought Subaru would have set their automatics to do that (noise issues aside).
John
As for MPG ... I find it's not so much how high the RPM are but how efficient the car is engineered at those RPM. I know folks will disagree, I probably didn't say that right. What I mean by that is that the Civic gets 36 MPG on the same commute doing speeds of up to 80 on the highway. The F-XT gets 21 MPG on the same commute with speeds up to 80 also. Both generate around the same RPM for a given speed. So discussing RPM alone as a factor in MPG is pretty useless from my standpoint. Like John mentions, the F-XT has been engineered to most efficient around 3000 RPM - hence the better highway than city mileage - even if you're loping in the city (I can easily drive my F-XT at no higher than 2000 RPM around town and I"m sure I'd get [non-permissible content removed] mileage)
*shrug*
Elissa
I finished my second tank of gas the other day(first was test driving mode)
and I averaged 23.84MPG with a combination of city and highway
driving. Not too bad I think. I tried to shift between 3-4K RPM
and it worked out nicely. I imagine as I get better with stick shift the gas mileage will be even higher(hopefully). It hasn't
been a week for me and I have 600 miles on it.
I think I'll rest her a bit - til the weekend.
I heard in very high traffic with a lot of stop and not much go - going straight to second gear from standstill was ok. Is this ok to do? or will it hurt the transmission?
Thanks,
Jim
Jim- That might be a bit much to ask from the transmission. Pretty much if you're moving at all then you can safely accelerate from 2nd but you're likely to lug the engine if you try to start out in 2nd from a complete standstill.
-Frank
ROCKPORT, WASHINGTON — A 38-year-old Australian man has been killed in Northwestern Washington State while participating in a 400-mile long adventure race for reality television.
Nigel Aylott, a member of team "AROC" died from injuries he sustained Tuesday when a huge bolder came crashing down on him, after being apparently loosened by another team member.
Aylott was part of a four-person team participating in the "Subaru Primal Quest" – a 400 mile long endurance race being filmed for air on the CBS Television Network next January.
Authorities say the man was not wearing a helmet when the boulder struck him.
In addition to Aylott, two other people were also injured by the 300-pound boulder. Both were Americans from the team "Montrail".
Witnesses say the boulder was apparently dislodged during a rope descent on a rocky slope below Illabot Peak in Skagit County near Rockport, Washington.
Gordon Wright the race organizer says, "Adventure racing is new sport that is growing fast. This is nothing we wish on anyone. He was tremendous athlete and great person."
The hiking, biking and kayaking race began Sunday and it was to last about ten-days and the prize for the 58 four-person teams is $100,000.
At the time of the accident, the two teams involved were leading the competition.
I finished my second tank of gas the other day(first was test driving mode)
and I averaged 23.84MPG with a combination of city and highway
driving. Not too bad I think. I tried to shift between 3-4K RPM
and it worked out nicely. I imagine as I get better with stick shift the gas mileage will be even higher(hopefully). It hasn't
been a week for me and I have 600 miles on it.
I think I'll rest her a bit - til the weekend.
I heard in very high traffic with a lot of stop and not much go - going straight to second gear from standstill was ok. Is this ok to do? or will it hurt the transmission?
Thanks,
Jim
My 38 mile commute includes about 6-8 miles of stop & go, 1st & 2nd gear. Makes me wish for an automatic transmission at times!
John
Bob
-Frank
The problem is if you tow over 2400, and something breaks or goes wrong, don't expect SOA to stand behind it with any warranty claims. Also, if you have an accident while towing, and it's your fault, you may(?) be more open to the possibility of a lawsuit, since you exceeded the manufacturer's recommendations.
Bob <fine-tuning Frank's response
But braking? What if someone cuts you off and you have to stop short? I'd leave a lot of room up ahead. Even then you can't control other drivers' mistakes.
I think there are vehicles better suited to tow that kind of load. 3,000 lbs is nearly the weight of the Forester towing it, and you could end up with a tail-wagging-the-dog scenario.
I'd look for a heavier truck to pull it, maybe a Liberty or XTerra. It'll come with trade-offs, of course.
Even a Baja turbo is a lot heavier than a Forester XT, and might be better suited. It even has a longer wheelbase for more stability.
-juice
It took me a few weeks, but I read through this ENTIRE thread - All 5,200-and-some-odd posts!
Some great info here - Thanks in advance for everyone's contributions - I hope I can contribute here as well.
My story:
"Longtime "car-guy" and adrenaline junky seeks a compact car that can truly "do it all!"
FOUND!
I bought my '05 XT w/Premium Pkg (auto) about 5 weeks ago.
The lease on my previous car ('01 Leg GT Wgn / 5-sp) was up, and the wife decided it was time to get something with an auto-trans so she could drive now (I taught her to drive a manual trans, but she prefers the auto - I gotta say it is a stress-reliever in stop-and-go traffic!).
I also felt we should consider something that will sit her up a bit for a confident view of the surroundings, but also with better outward visibility.
We had put almost 60,000 miles on the previous Subbie with absolutely not a single problem, it never even blew a bulb!
Mobil-1 w/O.E. filter every 5k miles and add gas - so getting another Subaru was a no-brainer.
We looked at the Forester (for the first time ever), and realized that it suited our needs perfectly!
But, I had always felt that if I were to get a car with an auto, it would need at least 200hp, and/or be a V6...
The salesman (wisely) capitalized on this comment and quickly suggested the (say it with me...!) - TURBO!!
I hadn't realized the XT even existed - But it is ABSOLUTELY PERFECT for us - 2 adults, 1 toddler, and a dog.
I call it a "STi for a family guy!"
This thing kinda reminds me of a hot-rodded Chevy Nomad - The sporty wagon with "more go than slow", and rugged good looks.
A bit more hp (300-350) and it will be the vehicular embodiment of a pitbull- Smallish, but muscular, and packing a big bite!
During my buying process, I actually was offered a sales job at the Subaru dealership and have been working selling these things now!
I love my XT, but I still feel that it needs a little sharpening up in several areas - I want a bit more feedback, but leaning towards quiet and "stealthy", but a bit more intake and exhaust sound when really getting on it.
Here's my list for now - Please feel to make suggestions:
(I have a limited budget, so I need max bang-for-the-buck, but I insist on quality)
Nokian WR tires - size TBD.
I previously used Nokian NRW's on my Leg GT with great experience, so sticking with Nokian was another no-brainer, but the NRW is no longer available, being replaced with the WR.
Anyone know if 225/60-16's will fit and work on the Forester - I know there is limited rear strut and front fender-well clearance.
If not, what about 215/65-16's?
STi rear sway bar to lessen the terminal understeer, especially upon initial turn-in.
F&R strut-tower braces - Anyone know if the rear bar fits under the O.E. cargo cover?
Anyone know of a front model? I have only seen rears advertised - I would prefer something that ties-in the firewall.
Steel brake lines (maybe also pads) for a firmer feel and better modulation.
Aluminum F&R under-chassis bash guards - I do a fair bit off-roading and like to challenge the cars abilities a bit. (*also hence the taller-than-stock tires, above)
Phillips Vision Plus bulbs, + equiv replacement for fog bulbs.
Good small driving lights that will fit in the grill opening (suggestions??)
3M front end protector.
Plastic headlight protectors (clear).
Tint all side/rear windows - Anyone know of anything with minimal darkening but max cooling (reflective?)
*I will also apply a reflective heat-resistant panal to the top of the sunroof shade.
Engine: (make suggestions - I want good bottom-end torque, better throttle response and quicker spool-up - "crispness"; a bit more intake/wastegate/turbo sound and light exhaust note when accelerating hard, otherwise quiet - I have the entire family in the car a LOT - frequent long road-trips.)
O.E. airbox, but with better-flowing tubing (suggestions?)
Maybe an STi muffler - Otherwise I'd like the exhaust to remain largely stock, except bits that improve power without adding noise or thrumming/harmonics in the cabin.
Boost controller (?)
Underdrive/aluminum pulleys (?)
COBB AccessPort (stage-1)
I'd also like to swap out my bright aluminum top rails for black - Any local takers?
Thanks, and looking forward to getting to know everyone here!
-juice
Owen
Bob
As enthusiastic as Frank is about driving his FXT hard, you yourself have no business worrying about trying out 4 wheel drifts, as you have zero performance driving training. Not a put down by any means, but it is clear that your approach to driving has not included any training beyond the initial Drivers Ed plus your own life experience.
Soooooo..... As for the traction issues you are concerned about, I concur that much of the criticism lies with the stock tires and their SUV design. Rather than spend money on new rims and such, I recommend switching to a high performance all-season tire. My personal recommendation is the Dunlop SP5000 in stock size, 215/60/16. It has plenty of grip, neutral handling attributes, and surprisingy good foul weather behavior. A tire much better suited to the *actual* mission of the FXT than those silly Geolandars. Bear in mind that the trade-off in tire performance is usually service life. Having said that, I think the SP5000 does well on that front too. While you should NOT expect it to go 70k, I personallt believe that the safety of its performance envelope is worth having to replace it every 40-50k, especially since it is not too expensive.
Where do I start?......it all comes down to the old adage: "Speed costs money. How fast fo you want to go?" I am not the most experienced FXT tuner out there, but I am the most experienced FXT tuner on the boards right this minute, so I'll give it a go! ;-D
Yes 225/60/16 will work. I run them right now on +50mm offset SSR Comps, so certainly they will work on your +48mm OEM rims. I have kept my OEM rims and Geolandars for the winter for now.
Do what you want on intake and exhaust, just bear in mind that only a full turbo-back is going to net much of a gain. And frankly, these cars are so stinking fast out of the box, I don't think it is wirth the headache or expense.
A rear strut tower brace will be a major incursion in your cargo room and no, it will not hide under your cargo cover cross-piece. Might be worth the sacrifice if you really want it though, I am pretty sure it would add some stiffness to the rear of the car. The STi 20mm upgrade is far more rewarding however.
As for other power mods, I really think you have 2 choices: leave it alone, or prepare to unload $1200 for a turbo back, another $700 for the AccessPort (which is still a little buggy), a couple hundred on intake, another couple hundred on proper gauges, plus the install costs/headaches. If you have the means, go right ahead. If those numbers look daunting (and menacingly warranty-voiding), let it be. It was hard not to go for all that, but I walked away from it all and haven't regretted it.
-Scott
You didn't happen to cut/paste from your perusal of all the posts, did you??? If perchance yes, please advise. Seems a pity to do all that reading without being left with some work product
I did the same thing with my Miata back before there were any "Browsers" on the Internet. There was a Miata Group BBS and I read it all before I bought the car. I didn't cut/paste but I took notes. You end up knowing more about the car doing this before you buy than most people who own one!
Bob
Seriously, we went to a BMW Ultimate Driving Event and took identical 330i models around a timed course. The students' times ranged from about 1:19 to 1:29. I was pretty proud of myself, since I came in just under 1:20.
Still, the instructors were lapping in the 1:17 range. Two full seconds faster than me in an identical car!
Give me 20 extra horsepower and I bet those instructors still beat me.
Fix the nut behind the wheel!
-juice