By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
You could also erase the settings/link with a key fob, but that's more involving than just using the other fob. Your fobs are probably already preset at the factory for Driver 1 and Driver 2 selections. Mine were. You probably just need to swap the fobs around.
That was my theory anyhow.
So, I'm pinned to the wheel, but can still move my arms, and I press the "1" button, knowing full well this will send the seat back to my preset comfort positions and free me of my bond.
No dice, the wheel telescoped out into my spleen, the seat found a few more inches to move forward with, and I was suddenly back to a 30 inch waistband and wondering why Chrylser engineers felt the wheel should be able to touch seatback.
Turning the car off got me back to breathing capacity again as the seat retreated from its assault. Me thinks the Lojack tech was playing a slight prank.
I was very pleased to find the FOB feature available on the 300C. If only I can get it to work. I did read something about the factory settings and I believe I tried switching the keys but can't be sure. I'll try it again tonight when I get home.
try these sites for reviews:
http://www.bullz-eye.com/carreviews/2004/chrysler_300.htm
http://auto.consumerguide.com/auto/new/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/- 38054
http://info.detnews.com/autosconsumer/autoreviews/index.cfm?id=13- 916
http://www.nctd.com/review-intro.cfm?Vehicle=2005_Chrysler_300&am- p;ReviewID=1557
They'll help you to decide. Getting one seems to be another story!
fastdriver
Another thing...the manual often refers to and shows the ignition switch in text and visual reference and the switch is clearly marked "LOCK", "ACC", "ON" and "START". However, the instructions for programming the key fob memory feature (again page 94) begins with "1. Insert the key into the ignition and turn the key to the Run position."
OK. There is no Run position! Are they asking me to start the engine? I have tried programming them by both starting and not starting the engine. Nothing works. If they wanted me to start the engine they should just say so! If not, how about "turn the key to the ON position without starting the vehicle."
I'm going to give you a toll-free number for Brampton Assembly, HOWEVER, it's against house
rules to post phone numbers. Load these three words onto your browser, and hopefully, you'll
have it. One word of caution when calling: Be courteous, be patient, be specific. No long stories, just have your VIN handy. They patched me through two people until they found someone who finally knew that my vehicle had been shipped. Hopefully, the number is still viable.
caw1285, systemdoc, phonebook
I found a mobile tint guy that's been in business for 10 years. He tinted my 300C last week and had problems tinting the back window. He couldn't exactly get the tint down around the brakelight. He got all sides except one corner....
He came back today to re-do it and 2 hours later he removed all the tint from the windows and gave me my money back. He said he just wasn't happy with the job. He said even the side windows weren't good. He went on to say that a lot of fibers from the top of the window door kept getting onto the glass when he wet the window to lay the tint down. Thus, he said I'd have to take it to an indoor shop and let them deal with it. He said he would never attempt to tint a 300 again.....
I did see what he meant about the fibers at the top of the side windows.....
Has anyone else had any problems with tinting?
My tint guy was actually excited to do the job, and it looks awesome. My 300C was the first black one he'd done, but it was his 5th 300C through the process. He showed no desire to 'hang it up', and in fact he volunteered to drive the car to my house after it was done.
I consider that drivng experience his tip.
I took my 300C to an indoor tint place here in the KC area. They actually removed the back seat, back break light, and cover over the speakers. It cost me 145.00 and looks perfect.
Jon
-mike
Has anyone taken theirs to the road course yet? I'd be curious to see how it handles on a road course.
-mike
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0403phr_hemi/index.html
Wait a minute, why am I glad about that?
My car claims to accept the code, but the garage door won't budge when it sends the code. Oddly enough, the same garage door opener had the codes for the front gates of the neighborhood, and the car accepted those codes and they work just fine. In fact, the gate has always been a nuisance getting it to open with the garage remote, but with the car's buttons it is flawless.
Is it possible that certain garage door openers just aren't an option with the 300C? Or could it be something to do with the part of the car that sends the signal possibly not aiming correctly?
When Best Buy installed the XM radio antenna, the wire created a small gap in the flexible windshield molding. After the car sits in the sun, that molding gets hot and flexible, and it would sing like a canary at speeds of 60 mph or more for five minutes, then after it cooled, it was quiet.
I fixed the problem with a little piece of black electrical tape.
Only problem left now is a slight pull to the right. Chrysler issued a bulletin with new alignment specs last week, and that may resolve the problem. Realignment is scheduled at the dealer tomorrow.
stephen
-mike
Then again, the whole car is a neat effect!
Some of their arguments for the DC engine don’t hold a lot of water. For instance, they mention the Chevy's parallel valves as a drawback. Changing the valve configuration is as easy as swapping to different heads. In other words, it's pretty darn easy. For an apples-to-apples (or hp-to-hp) comparison, look at the fact that the new Corvette engine, an LS6, has no problem producing 500 hp, pushing that close to 2-ton beast to 12.5 second quarter miles. Need more than that?
Believe it or not, the piston design they describe is fairly old tech these days.
I'm actually surprised they're using a speed-density injection system. Mass flow isn't exactly state of the art and is better. Easily changed...
Coil-on-plug ignition also isn't a big deal these days. Heck, even a lowly 3.0 liter Ford Taurus uses it.
It's old news that the heads really aren't a true hemispherical design. It's also old news that hemi heads aren't as efficient as a pent roof combustion chamber, as would be used on a well-designed 4-valve head. So why would someone want to "go back" to a hemi when there have been better designs?
There certainly are some good points. For instance, cross-bolted mains are nice - much better than a normal 4-bolt cap. Rover's been using them on their all-aluminum V8s for years.
In summary, I think DC's hemi advertising is just that - advertising. And it seems that Popular Hot Rodding got a couple of those advertising dollars from them. :-)
My 1992 Subaru SVX has this on it's 3.3L quad-cam H6 motor! Also it turns off 1 bank of cylinders during upshifts to smooth out shifting. So turning off a bank of cylinders is nothing new either!
-mike
There was a back order on the camber bolt kits but many orders were filled and now there seems to be another back order. If you car pulls right, I suggest you get your dealer to put an order for the kit and not try to fix it without it, which my 5* dealer tried to do.
Here is what I have:
DEALER CODE
&
VON
I'm using the following site
http://insightnl.extra.daimlerchrysler.com/inl_dealer/Dealer_LOGI- N.jsp
Once there I enter the dealer code to login.
Next I select search by VON and enter my VON number
The list comes back with no entries.
So then I select search by dealer code
The list comes back with many entries for the dealer
The problem is my car is not on the list.
I ordered the car on 5/17/2004. I thought it would show up by now but maybe I'm wrong. Anyone have any info about this or should I call the dealer who by the way has been very helpful and responsive!
No big deal really, an annoyance, an oddity, but nothing to scream "poor quality!" about.
Supposedly there is a fix for it (TSB 0200304). Therefore, I want it fixed. Seems fair enough. So I called my FIVE STAR dealership and ran into a FIVE STAR jerk response from the service manager. He claims Chrysler has not updated his system to reflect any problems that need to be fixed as far as alignment, or camber bolts are concerned. In fact he was in disbelief that such a problem exists.
O...k. I then explain to him that such a TSB does exist, I even have the number for it. He responds "no, it doesn't exist, my computer would say it does if it did". I then offer him the TSB number, AND HE DECLINES TO TAKE IT! He says if his computer doesn't show it, they won't or can't fix it. He then suggests I call Chrysler myself, and have Chrysler call HIM if a drifting problem fix exists. I'm his secretary now? Granted this is my car...but sir, it's YOUR JOB.
This is FIVE STAR treatment?
If anyone has info on TSB 0200304, preferably something from Chrysler, website, official form, or a person I can call at Chrysler to get and give the necesary info to this "fairly rude gentleman" (G rated) I would greatly appreciate it.
Time to get medieval.
I did ask for a issue date and she said she saw a date of 5/25/04 but couldn't be certain if that was the official issue date. My dealer is aware of it and has already placed orders for the kits so I am surprised at the response you got.
I would be on the phone in a heartbeat with the GM/Owner of your 5* dealership and let him know what I think of his service manager for sure!
-mike
"In fact he was in disbelief that such a problem exists."
Get used to it. It's only just begun. This is EXACTLY what they're like! This is why I DON'T understand why Auburn Hills does nothing about this treatment ESPECIALLY when you have a TSB number.
They haven't changed since I had Christine back in 99. Read this http://www.fivestar.com and then COMPARE it to YOUR "5-STAR"! ANY comparison? ;-))
fastdriver
SUBJECT:
Right Lead
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves adjusting the alignment to revised specifications.
MODELS:
2005 (LX) 300/Magnum
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built prior to April 25, 2004 (MDH 0425XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The vehicle operator states the vehicle leads to the right.
DIAGNOSIS:
Drive the car on a FLAT road. If the car tracks straight, the vehicle operator is experiencing
crown sensitivity. If the vehicle tracks to the right, perform the Repair Procedure. Crown
sensitivity can not be eliminated in all the cases. Vehicles built on or after April 25, 2004
already have the alignment biased and no further action should be required or taken by the
dealer other than verifying the vehicle is set at the revised specifications listed in this
bulletin.
NOTE: Before evaluating the vehicle, it is important to check the following:
1. Tire pressure - Adjust tire pressure (if necessary) in all four wheels to
the pressure stated on the door placard.
2. Tire size & type - Verify that all four tires are the same size and type.
NOTE: When evaluating the vehicle, always drive the same road in both directions to
get a feel for the effect of road crown & cross wind.
SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
NPN Alignment Equipment
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Use the procedures outlined on TechCONNECT to set the wheel alignment to the
specifications below.
NUMBER: 02-003-04
GROUP: Suspension
DATE: May 25, 2004
NOTE: When aligning the front end to induce right caster bias (the vehicle will tend
to track toward the side with the least positive caster), target the cross caster
to be -0.8 degree and no more than -1.3 degrees. That means you will have
more caster on the right than on the left. Cross camber should be set in at
+0.2 - +0.3 degree. That means you will have more camber on the left than on
the right. Utilize the cradle shift method PRIOR to using the caster/camber
adjustment bolt kit, p/n 05134117AA. The adjustment bolts only provide
about 0.2 - 0.3 degree change and should only be used as a last resort. When
shifting the cradle, the passenger side of the cradle will move forward in car
and the driver's side will move rearward in car.
NOTE: After the cradle has been shifted, torque all 4 cradle bolts to 175Nm (130 ft.
lbs.).
CAUTION: If an adjustment bolt is to be installed do not allow the bolt head to turn
during disassembly or assembly, the cradle tension link joint or the lower
control arm bushing inner metal sleeve will be destroyed and require
replacement. THE NUT MUST BE UNTORQUED AND REMOVED, BEFORE
THE BOLT. Once the nut is removed the bolt can be slid out.
REVISED ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
CAMBER - LEFT -0.1° -0.60° to +0.40°
CAMBER - RIGHT -0.20° -0.70° to +0.30°
Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side
difference)
0.20° -0.30 to +0.60°
CASTER - LEFT +10.30° +9.00° to +12.10°
CASTER - RIGHT +11.10° +9.00° to +12.10°
Cross-Caster (Maximum side-to-side
difference)
-0.80° -1.30 to -0.50°
INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.15°
TOTAL TOE** +0.20° 0.00° to +0.40°
Maximum side-to-side difference 0.00° 0.06°
RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 328mm (12 15/16 in.) 318 to 338mm (12 1/2 to 13
3/8 in.)
CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
CAMBER* -0.75° -1.25° to -0.25°
Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side
difference)
0.00° -0.50 to 0.50°
INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.25°
02-003-04 -2-
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
THRUST ANGLE 0.0° -0.50° to +0.50°
RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 296mm (11 5/8 in.) 286 to 306mm (11 1/4 to 12
in.)
CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)
Notes:
Vehicle height and suspension alignment values reflect after vehicle spring settling values.
* For reference only. These are non-adjustable angles.
** TOTAL TOE is the sum of both left and right wheel toe settings. TOTAL TOE must be equally
split between each front wheel to ensure the steering wheel is centered after setting toe. Positive
toe is toe-in and negative toe is toe-out
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
02-00-02-90 Set Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel 0.7 Hrs.
02-00-01-91 Alignment Using Cradle Adjustment and Set
Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel
1.0 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE:
LM Leads Right
-3- 02-003-04
But I see kvilleboy posted the bulletin.
After reading all of your 300C comments, I'm wondering if I should wait awhile before putting in an order. My question - to former 300M owners: Are there more "bugs" in the 300C in its early development than there were those experienced in the early 300Ms? Or has Chrysler got its act together?
Ah... there you go. PRINT that out now and bring it to your "5-STAR" and see if that will enlighten him!
chuckg-
It gets confusing sometimes what you can and cannot post especially with the "loosening up" of the "rules". If it's a no-no, it will be deleted and you'll get an explanation why. If it stays, then you're all set.
fastdriver
I owned an early 300M and bought an early 300C. The only problem I had with the 300M was the Goodyear Eagle LS tires that were specifically produced for that car caused vibrations or pulls to the left or right. One window mechanism failed. Those were the two most frequently noted weaknesses.
So far, the 300C has been much more pleasant in comparison, because the only defect is a slight pull to the right, that I am sure will soon be fixed by a factory kit, due at dealers in mid June.
Another early model that I bought in 1992 was the 1993 Intrepid ES, also manufactured at Brampton where these 300C's are made. That car was excellent, no deficiencies at all.
I'm not always first in line for a new model. Earlier this year I bought a 1961 Cadillac six window sedan - 17,000 miles on it. Just barely broken in. You could say I waited 43 years for the bugs to get worked out. But already I've had to have the water pump rebuilt, and had to replace a wheel cylinder. And it pulls to the left. You just can't win!
stephen
The 6.1L Hemi under development is using exotic materials to sustain higher engine speeds as well.
Our 2002 Mercedes C240 had a noticeable pull to the left that was quite apparent on my pre-delivery test drive. Right after delivery, I took it back to the dealer to have it corrected, and the [very sharp] tech took it upon himself to use more caster on one side vs the other as the final solution to the problem. I thought that took some imagination, and incidentally, it solved the problem permanently - the car tracks like a train now. I carry a copy of the final alignment numbers in the car in case the job ever needs to be done again.
It's fascinating and discouraging at the same time when dealers think their job is to do as little as possible rather than as much as possible to keep a customer. This particular MB dealer I had been dealing with for about 9 years, and I never considered them to be anything special - guess I was underestimating how mediocre the competition is.