OK, I was just kidding. I had a similar experience with a 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 that had a 390 HP T-Bird engine and a 3 speed auto transmission. Turns out the cause was a broken right motor mount and a failing transmission mount. The engine and transmission were trying to leave without me! After the mounts were replaced, I took it easy from a dead stop to prevent the damage.
I purchased a 2005 Chrysler 300 last October (2007) from day #1 I had problems with several "noises" in the front end. It has been in the service garage numerous times. They think they've fixed the problem, then another one occurs. Now the steering column is frozen. They replaced some of it, but now they think it's the rack and pion. I'm confused ... doesn't anyone have information on problems with the 300 front end?
Looking back through this forum has been a hoot. From early doomsaying about the 300C's expected service longevity based on the flexible plastic nose & tail, to comparisons of NASCAR performance as if it related to the real world.
I've had my 300C since June of 05 & it just now ticked 74,000 on the digital odometer. Three years without a significant problem (biggest bug is that silly auto-trans inspection plug that leaks periodically). This is good & bad news -- I sprang for the 7 year 100,000 mile bumper-to-bumper extended warranty (although I got it at dealer cost).
The Conti tires suck, but Chrysler doesn't make those. Eventually there were a few rattles in the back end -- I found that the plastic fender liners can flex sufficiently to hit the exhaust pipes -- the home made fix is rubber stoppers stuck onto the metal underbody & the fender liner with industrial contact cement -- no more rattles.
With good winter tires the car is really good in snow & way more fun than front or all-wheel drivers. I have never been stuck & I have never "lost it".
The much-maligned soft plastic body parts are still in perfect shape & the car still could pass for new -- gleaming paint, tight body, smooth running, still-perfectly supportive seats.
My old 99 Concord LXi now has 237,000 showing & is beginning to give trouble -- I will replace it with another 300 -- maybe a Limited this time -- or even a yr-old 300C at a lower price than a new Limited. Whatever I buy to replace the Concord, the 05 300C stays -- it is an awesome ride, has been a tremendous value & is still like a new car.
It is refereshing to hear from someone who truly knows what they have. Although I only have about 25,000 miles on my two 300C Heritage Editions, they are beyond a doubt the best cars I have ever owned. Good for you! :shades:
I see that someone has filed a Class Action Lawsuit against Continental Tire - stating that they failed to disclose that their tires would incur abnormal and premature treadwear. From comments in this forum, I knew the Conti's were not a great tire. When I bought my '07 C, I had them switch the tires to Goodyear Assurance, which I had on my 300M, Great tires, great car! You should be getting the Notice of Class Action shortly. I received mine today.
I barely got 20,000 miles from the Conti tires on my two 2006 300C Heritage Editions. I upgraded to Michelins and love them. They are the run flat design with extra firm sidewalls which improved cornering considerably. I also opted for the widest size tire that would fit my stock 18" chrome clad wheels (P255R55-18) and the wet and dry performance improved even more. I expect to get at least twice the mileage from these tires as opposed to the Continentals. The Michelins were about $250.00 each (mounted/balanced) so it cost me a bit over $2000.00 to replace the rubber on both cars. Still, the durability, reliability, handling, safety and even the road noise improvement makes it well worth the expense. The Mercedes in Chrysler clothing is much more apparent now! :shades:
Just unbuckle the two latches and lift the cover up and roll it over to access the filter element. There are three slots on the back that accept three plastic square alignment tabs before you snap the cover back in place. There is no need to remove the air duct (looks like a hose).
I have seen a photograph of a 2009 300C Heritage Edition and it is spectacular! One thing different: The Chrysler wing on the trunk looks wider and it has the red, white and blue Heritage Edition badge in the center of it. They also have LED turn indicators on the mirrors and puddle lamps. The rear spoiler is molded into the trunk lid and the rear deck brake light is relocated to the trunk as well (like the 300M). The dual exhaust stainless steel tips are rolled on the edges instead of just cut off. The interior is improved as well with more wood and chrome trim. The MyGig entertainment center is a great feature also. The Navigation system is now touch screen operated, much better than my 2006 model the requires everything done with a twist button selector, and a graphic keyboard and enter button. Too much trouble! Chrysler is listening to everyones' suggestions and making changes to improve. The prices have not gone up much since 2006 either. The cars are just getting better.
You are welcome. There is one other thing I failed to mention concerning the air filter on the 300C as well as a lot of other late model cars with high performance engines. I have been using K & N high-flow, permanent, washable air filters on all my cars for a number of years. About every three months, rather than change the filter, I clean it in my kitchen sink with a special detergent and re-oil the filter element when it is dry and put it back in the intake plenum. The idea of a high-volume, low restriction air filter is better performance, mileage and economy because you don't have to buy another air filter for about 100,000 miles. Well, that is what i got out of them with my older carbureted engines. However, on all my fuel injected engines with the modern electronic controls on everything, I am not seeing the same results. My mileage has not changed, and the performance is about the same as well. I questioned others about the reason why, and the best explanation was as follows: Most modern engines have a "mass air flow sensor" in the intake manifold that precisely measures the CFM of combustion air that is drawn into the combustion chambers and adjusts the amount of fuel released by the injectors to maintain the exact ratio of air to fuel mixture consumed by the engine. It doesn't matter if your air filter is covered in dirt and restricting 50% of the air or if it completely removed and the maximum amount of air is allowed into the engine. The computer will always keep the same fuel to air ratio, so it will cut back fuel to match an excess of air. The horsepower will vary with the amount of fuel allowed to feed the engine cylinders as in any car, but the mass air flow sensor will limit any benefit of high volume intake air automatically. The carbureted engines will take as much air and fuel as you can cram into them, even if your use a blower to do it. But, modern engines are built with high performance, reliability and fuel economy in mind. Switching to a re-useable, oiled, low restriction filter doesn't really gain anything. In fact, on some vehicles, they are expressly forbidden because they allow larger particles to pass through the filter and can void your warranty. I am going to remove my K & N filters and go back to paper element disposable filters. they don't cost much and are available everywhere. I thought you might find this information useful, in case you were considering changing over to a permanent filter.
You are correct - and in some cases, the K & N will blow up a mass air flow sensor. Some companies will stand up to replace it under warranty, but some will void your warranty if they see a K & N in there. How do I know? Had one on an Infiniti I owned, the mass air flow sensor failed as a result. Nissan stepped up and fixed it for me, but warned me they would not do it again if I continued to run the K & N in there. They are an outmoded aftermarket technology now.
I think the majority of problems people have with K&N type filters is over-oiling. Oil then coats the little MAF sensor and that's not good. A throttle body cleaner can remove the film but if it's oiled correctly in the first place it will never happen.
I have a drop-in K&N in my wife's PT Cruiser turbo and it works well. I used a cone K&N filter in my old Mysitque for nearly 10 years and no problems after I learned not to put too much oil on it.
I have dual K&N cone filters on my Viper that seem to work fairly well.
I read where the President-Elect had to give up his Chrysler 300C in favor of a hybrid SUV due to pressure from the environmentalists. Does anyone know what color and model 300 he had? Thanks
Now have 40K on my 300C and no major issues! However, it has been raining a lot recently and water started dripping down the back grab handles and the passenger side seat belt holder. When you open the sunroof, you'll see two drain holes - one in each front corner (hard to see, but they are there). These holes drain down through the door frame (between the front door and the fender) - you can see the drain tubes by opening the front doors and looking for the small 1/4" tube that sticks out about 1 1/2" long about half way down the door frame. (Becareful not to move the door and trap your fingers as you look!) The problem is that the insulation in the front fenders can move and block the drain tube that empties out between the front door and the fender. I found my problem by trying to blow a blast of air through the drain hole and it must have dislodged the blocking insulation and I saw water dripping out. I checked the other side of the car and pushed the insulation slightly towards the fender and water came pouring out. Hence - check this insulation if you are having this problem.
I have used K & N filters for all my vehicles and NEVER had a problem with them period. Carbs or Injected, every one performed flawlessly and every one did increase horsepower and mileage. I have recommended these for years to anyone who will listen and THEY have had flawless performance. My latest is a 2008 Honda Ridgeline, 15.5 mpg to 19.9 in town, (63 Impala 383 Demon Carb, 2000 Mercury Sable injected, 2003 GMC Sonoma injected, 2008 American Iron Horse carb. also have them) I agree that the cleaning may be an issue as folks are cleaning them way :too often. Once every 6 months, "clean and dry it completely, oil it lightly" then put it in. The thing will last 1,000,000 miles. My friend Dock just put one in his 300 and it's doing great...better mileage and more power. Thanks for the opportunity to share info and experience. My personal experience with Nissan is .....Well (I am not allowed to use bad language) not very good. My Nissan Maxima SE 2001 (traded for the Honda) was a sensor/EGR valve eater with paper elements or K&N, premium fuel an all.
It must have been yellow! If all it takes is a bunch of whiners to make him change vehicles, who else is going to manipulate him? He has to be the first president to let a group of fanatics dictate what he should drive. Last time I checked, most presidents get driven around in a limo with lots of secret service protection anyway. Are those same "environmentalist" also concerned with the MPG rating of Air force One? The little photo-op in NYC was reported to cost about $200,000.00. :confuse:
My wife have been complaining about a rubbing noise in her steering for a bit on her 2005 (I believe) 300C. We took it into the dealer and they say the steering column is somehow bent. They suspect from mishandling when work was being done on the car. He said he's seen this happen when someone pulled the dash and didn't properly support the steering wheel. Well, the part is something over $1K. As far as I know, we've never had anything other than tires, alignment, and fluid service done elsewhere on that car. Anyone seen this before?
The whole point of Nitrogen is to stop the slow leaks that are inevitable. Many aluminum rims or valves will slowly leak air. Nitrogen molecules are larger then oxygen, so they don't have that same opportunity to leak through the rims, etc.
They say better mileage because a properly inflated tire will provide EXTREMELY MARGINALLY better mileage. This is based on the assumption that you have regular air in your tires, and DON'T check the pressure to make sure it is up.
32lbs nitrogen or 32lbs regular air will provide the exact same ride, and the exact same gas mileage.
SO.....check your tires frequently and fill with whatever is available.
I had an "outtie" door ding appear suddenly one day just after opening and closing the driver's window on a New 2011 Chrysler 300C. I thought I had been hit by a shopping cart, but my dent doctor said it was an 'outtie' and that something in the door panel dented the door from the inside. Most likely a loose screw or other part from the window regulator. The dent doctor fixed the dent, but, the Chrysler dealer could not find the cause after removing the interior trim panel covering the window regulator. There was another panel underneath this one, but they did not remove it. They did take out the window and could not see anything that would hit the door.
Anyone have any experience with something like this? I had one once before on the trunk of my Mercedes when I put a large suitcase in the trunk and slammed the trunk shut without realizing the interference.
I have heard rumors about an upcoming Executive edition with dramatically upgraded interior and, I think, exterior trim. Does anyone know if it is still coming, and when? Also, when will they have the 8-speed trans with the V-8?
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Since I purchased my Chrysler 300 Touring used, it has never been in an accident, right off the bat it had problems. It was under a warranty, kept taking it to the dealership, they kept telling me there was nothing wrong, warranty expired, took car to my mechanic plus another reputable repair shop and found out this vehicle had problems which include tire rods, strut arms, lwr control arm, shift cylinoid, light that lit up the nag/cd/radio etc., went out, not a fuse problem, but elec pblm, and the list goes on. It appears that the dealrshp new the prblms but wld not take care of it. Went bk to dlrshp and voiced my concerns/issues, but to no avail. I've already paid out $$$$ on this vehicle. Filed a complaint w/BBB. Chrysler has no recall or silent recalls on these vehicles. One would think there would be w/all of the pblms w/these vehicles. Something shld be done. Unless all these owners have $$$$ to throw away...I do not. I feel I have bght a lemon, but this same dlrship continues to say these cars R top of the line. REALLY. WHO ARE YOU KIDDING. In my town, the employees of this dlrshp R not driving these TOP OF THE LINE Vehicles they R trying to sell their customers. Sign Will Not Buy Another One if You paid me $$$$$$. I am still paying off this car.
If you bought a new Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep or Fiat "special edition" model in the past year or so - or if you are a dealer who sold one - a reporter would love to hear about it. Please email PR@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, October 10, 2012 with your daytime phone number and a brief description of the car and your experience with it.
Bought the car in April 2012 and had a computer recall on the car. They reprogrammed the computer a month later and it ran good until 2 days ago. Parked car at a store and when I returned to car it would not start. Every warning message that it had came up on screen including one that said pull off to side of the road that transmission may fail to shift and another said that the brake system might fail and cease working. Has anyoneelse had this problem and what was the repair. Dealer is holding car per-Chrysler because they can not figure what is wrong. With no key faub in or around car the windshield wipers stayed on and lights stayed on. CraigSS@live.com
Hello, rattling sound underneath in area of drivers seat. Was off/on now sound is constant varying in pitch based on speed and acceleration. Also,when I turn on a/c on high for 30 min or more,smell of rotten fish which goes away if air shut off. A/c not as cold as should be.Are there a/c line under car,near heat shield or otherwise? Car has 40000mi. on it. Does this sound like two different problems? I thought maybe a/c fitting might have loosened and caused leak of refrigerant and rattling. Thank you for your assistance. I am taking car in,would like some ideas,has anyone else had this?
A reporter would like to speak to a recent buyer of a Chrysler 300. If you've purchased a Chrysler 300 in the past 6 months, and would like to share your story, please send your daytime contact information to pr@edmunds.com no later than Monday, March 18, 2013 at 5 p.m. PT/8 p.m. ET.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I'm thinking about buying either a 2013 or 2014 Chrysler 300C in the next few months because I am a fan of RWD and they are few and far between unless you spend a ridiculous amount of money for a European model like a Mercedes or BMW. However, my concern is that in the past, Chrysler products always had good solid engines but suffered miserably from "fit and finish" issues. Could anyone address whether Chrysler vehicle quality and durability has improved from the past now that the company is managed by Fiat? Also, how has the fuel management system on the HEMI which deactivates the cylinders been performing? I'm curious about this operation since it proved to be a major problem back in the day when General Motors introduced it on the Cadillac with it's 8-6-4 arrangement. Please elaborate on any other issues with the 300C. Thanks for your help!
We have had our 300 limited for 1 year now. We got the limited because we did not want the Hemi which did not get good gas mileage. 30 -34 mpg on the HYWY. So we paid for all the upgrades that the Hemi had standard. Did have some problems with the computer(s) but it seems we are good. Car rides like a champ, heated and cooled cup holders along with heated steering wheel are a plus. Unlike many of the competitions cars, the passengers in the rear seat are very comfortable. Sun roof is a bit noisy when open, rear auto shade is nice. Good luck with your new car. Craig
I've read some complaints from owners of 2005-2006 Chrysler 300C's with the 5.7L Hemi that they have experienced complete engine failures due to bent rods,damaged pistons,timing chain issues,etc.,due to engine lubrication problems. This has happened with mileage ranging from 40-100K+. Although it has been 8 years since these issues occurred, does anyone know if these engine failures still exist with the current 2013-2014 models?? It was also reported that transmission problems were also a complaint. I would like to purchase a new 2014 or 2015 with the HEMI but would like to find out if this situation is still going on before I invest my money. Thanks for your help!
Comments
I've had my 300C since June of 05 & it just now ticked 74,000 on the digital odometer. Three years without a significant problem (biggest bug is that silly auto-trans inspection plug that leaks periodically). This is good & bad news -- I sprang for the 7 year 100,000 mile bumper-to-bumper extended warranty (although I got it at dealer cost).
The Conti tires suck, but Chrysler doesn't make those. Eventually there were a few rattles in the back end -- I found that the plastic fender liners can flex sufficiently to hit the exhaust pipes -- the home made fix is rubber stoppers stuck onto the metal underbody & the fender liner with industrial contact cement -- no more rattles.
With good winter tires the car is really good in snow & way more fun than front or all-wheel drivers. I have never been stuck & I have never "lost it".
The much-maligned soft plastic body parts are still in perfect shape & the car still could pass for new -- gleaming paint, tight body, smooth running, still-perfectly supportive seats.
My old 99 Concord LXi now has 237,000 showing & is beginning to give trouble -- I will replace it with another 300 -- maybe a Limited this time -- or even a yr-old 300C at a lower price than a new Limited. Whatever I buy to replace the Concord, the 05 300C stays -- it is an awesome ride, has been a tremendous value & is still like a new car.
I have a drop-in K&N in my wife's PT Cruiser turbo and it works well. I used a cone K&N filter in my old Mysitque for nearly 10 years and no problems after I learned not to put too much oil on it.
I have dual K&N cone filters on my Viper that seem to work fairly well.
I have used K & N filters for all my vehicles and NEVER had a problem with them period. Carbs or Injected, every one performed flawlessly and every one did increase horsepower and mileage. I have recommended these for years to anyone who will listen and THEY have had flawless performance. My latest is a 2008 Honda Ridgeline, 15.5 mpg to 19.9 in town, (63 Impala 383 Demon Carb, 2000 Mercury Sable injected, 2003 GMC Sonoma injected, 2008 American Iron Horse carb. also have them)
I agree that the cleaning may be an issue as folks are cleaning them way :too often. Once every 6 months, "clean and dry it completely, oil it lightly" then put it in. The thing will last 1,000,000 miles. My friend Dock just put one in his 300 and it's doing great...better mileage and more power.
Thanks for the opportunity to share info and experience. My personal experience with Nissan is .....Well (I am not allowed to use bad language) not very good. My Nissan Maxima SE 2001 (traded for the Honda) was a sensor/EGR valve eater with paper elements or K&N, premium fuel an all.
They say better mileage because a properly inflated tire will provide EXTREMELY MARGINALLY better mileage. This is based on the assumption that you have regular air in your tires, and DON'T check the pressure to make sure it is up.
32lbs nitrogen or 32lbs regular air will provide the exact same ride, and the exact same gas mileage.
SO.....check your tires frequently and fill with whatever is available.
Anyone have any experience with something like this? I had one once before on the trunk of my Mercedes when I put a large suitcase in the trunk and slammed the trunk shut without realizing the interference.
Any help would be appreciated.
Brownie 12
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Has anyoneelse had this problem and what was the repair. Dealer is holding car per-Chrysler because they can not figure what is wrong. With no key faub in or around car the windshield wipers stayed on and lights stayed on.
CraigSS@live.com
This might interest me...
- Ray
Torque addict
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Good luck with your new car.
Craig
I've read some complaints from owners of 2005-2006 Chrysler 300C's with the 5.7L Hemi that they have experienced complete engine failures due to bent rods,damaged pistons,timing chain issues,etc.,due to engine lubrication problems. This has happened with mileage ranging from 40-100K+. Although it has been 8 years since these issues occurred, does anyone know if these engine failures still exist with the current 2013-2014 models?? It was also reported that transmission problems were also a complaint. I would like to purchase a new 2014 or 2015 with the HEMI but would like to find out if this situation is still going on before I invest my money. Thanks for your help!