Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Bought extended warranty, mostly because of incredibly bad/expensive experience witha '99 Volvo XC. Generally, opinion has been that the warranties aren't worth it, especially with cars that have solid record of reliability. Subaru has good record, though with so many new things in the '05s, might be worth a longer look.
I paid $1195 for the gold package - $0 deductible up to 100,000 mi. Hope I won't need it, but - after the Volvo - at least I have some peace of mind.
Again...congratulations and enjoy!
Peace.
As I was just saying in another thread, I always pass on the warranties. Historically, they favor the seller (profits). But in reality, you can wait until just before the basic 3yr/36000mi warranty expires to decide. The warranties are available online, and prices are usually competetive. I think Kate in the other thread got a price of $790 for the Gold warranty.
Craig
Before returning the Highlander to Toyota this week, I decided to make a direct comparison. So I parked the two cars side-by-side on our dirt road to check the difference.
The Outback's headlights do indeed reach a bit further. But due to the much narrower beam, there is less illumination of the sides of the road and less light reflecting off the road signs (which was the main reason why I thought the Subie lights were not as good.)
I noticed also that with the OBXT, I constantly get asked for my low beams. I find that surprising given the sharp cutoff of the well controlled low-beams. Has anyone else noticed this?
Sly
to get the entire part beneath the carpeting, with just the hook exposed.
I'm not so sure about that -- I saw no mention of that in the brochure. In fact, it looked like the same conditions no matter when you buy and you can pick plans with $0, $50, or $100 deductable.
More details are online at Subaru's site.
Craig
I collect it on Monday. I have test driven Outback 2.5XTs a number of times (not the particular one I bought) but did not experience any turbo lag as I have read in other places. it was pretty smooth acceleration.
Hope the car turns out to be reliable. My first brand new car.
Higher ground clearance
Sturdier suspension with more wheel travel
Bigger wheels
Bigger fog lights
Smaller brakes
Did I forget anything?
Sly
The Outback sedan and wagon are the same. The sedan is available in one trim level only versus many trim levels for the wagon.
The Outback sedan is equipped like the L.L. Bean wagon - H6, 5EAT, moonroof, leather, 17" rims, etc.
The wagons are available in H4 5MT or 4EAT base & limited, H4 Turbo 5MT or 5EAT base & limited, and H6 5EAT L.L. Bean and VDC. This is the US model line up; Canada model line up is different.
DaveM
I'm not fully awake yet... where's my coffee!!!
It's the weatherstripping on the body near the striker plate.
Sorry took so long to reply.
Chas
That seems like a good price for the Gold Warranty, especially with $0 deductible. Did you have to haggle to get that price? I could've sworn they were charging $1600+ for the Gold w/ $0 for my '05 OBXTL. Just couldn't swing it at the time I bought my car, but definitely want it (since this'll be the first car I've ever financed for 4 years).
Any info you could provide would be most appreciated!
Rgds,
Tim G.
Krzys
Craig
Prices have dropped slowly and now it seems like sales are picking up.
Thanks for sharing the "neat features" stuff.
breld: great price on that GT Ltd wagon, I'd have been tempted also. But I'm house poor, so it would just tease me!
The one huge advantage an Outback has over a BMW X3 is the ride quality. It is much, much smoother, no comparison. I also think the Subie is nicer inside (you'd expect the opposite) and costs a bunch less. The X3 is too heavy for the 2.5l engine, and the 3.0l puts it close to $40 grand.
-juice
I then went to test the VDC. I was lucky that they had one. For me, the better interior, the strong engine and the reliability of the VDC won out.
The only thing I struggled with was whether I really needed the VDC, because it is signif more expensive. But the safety technology is always something Ive been interested in.
BTW, my wagon has an armrest extension, and it is the bomb!!!
thanks again, everyone and congrats to all new owners.
Michael
No haggle...straight up price. Stacey Subaru, Brattleboro, VT. I thought it was a fair deal. But, just read a post that said they paid $790!! (no. 5062, I think?)
Among other things to consider is how many miles you'll put on the car. I'll probably exceed 100,000 in four years, but that's above average. If you purchase the ext. warr., look for a deal that approximates the miles you'll put on.
Good luck.
Peace.
Congrats to all the other new buyers.
I didn't know that Outback has a better ride than X3. Quite surprising. Thats great. Makes me feel better about my purchase even more. Cannot wait to go for long drives.
Juice you mentioned that prices have fallen. To how much? I paid here the same price which existed a month or two back. BTW I paid 27642 for at Outback 2.5XT Automatic Transmission. Please let me know if anyone thinks this is too much.
Craig
A few interesting points from his impressions:
- The 2.5T is easier to get off the line than the JDM 2.0T due to it's extra displacement and works better with drive-by-wire.
- The 2.5T pulls very linearly compared to the 2.0T which has a noticeable kick after 2000RPM. The USDM motor has the torque advantage while the JDM motor, a HP advantage.
- Overall handling is not too far off the JDM version. The USDM model definetly has a softer suspension tuning to compensate for our poor roads. He notes that "a degree of softness goes a long ways in terms of livability".
- The softer suspension translates into more body roll, but Paul noted that brake dive/squat were very well controlled similar to the JDM model. "Due to the relative softness of the suspension, especially in the rear, I can see where abrupt throttle lift mid-corner would have the rear end stepping out."
- The biggest weakness in the USDM model are the tires stating "It is a poor grade of rubber that lacks the grip necessary with a 250hp vehicle". "While [the RE92] is inadequate, it communicates its failings clearly". Should be fine for regular driving.
In closing he noted that although his preference is for the JDM version, "in no way would I be crying if I had to take the USDM model".
Ken
In fact I doubt prices will drop any more until the end of the model year (maybe next April or so). Sales have increased so I think dealers are happy. They don't need incentives right now, and it would erode residual values.
-juice
Do I have any price leverage in shopping around between dealers for my factory extended warranty? I don't understand how there could be such a price difference between what I was quoted and what some people stated they'd paid for their's. And I got my OBXTL for $400 over invoice, so I don't believe my dealer is unfair to deal with.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Rgds,
Tim
The difference is that warranties are a cash cow, and some dealers really try to milk the profit. Some sell at a lower price but sell more warranties (like the online places).
Craig
You might consider telling the dealer, directly, that you know folks who have paid these amounts for the extended warranty...and, that you would be willing to purchase for that price.
My dealer has a straight price. Saw no need to negotiate, since it seemed fair. Certainly, he made a nice profit and I was satisfied with my cost. But, if your dealer seems to be looking to profit excessively on this, offer to pay your price or look elsewhere. (BTW, a similar $0 deductible, 'gold-type' plan for Volvo or Audi would be over $2000!)
Good luck.
Peace.
Definitely shop around for a price. If you want to buy from your dealer, bring in the different quotes you get from other places. He should match it, if he wants the business. I know that's what I did when I bought mine in 2000. Another suggestion is to make sure you get a Subaru warranty, not another company. Subaru will work better with you if you have one of their own warranties.
Mark
Inflation and the turbo will mean it will most definitely cost more for you.
-juice
Thanks to everyone on these boards for the wealth of information posted - occasionally a little TOO much information ;-) - It's almost fun buying a car when you know more than the sales person does about it!
I've added all weather floor mats - these are very substantial and well worth the money if you plan on getting muddy.
I also added the side cargo nets, very useful for keeping small items from sliding around in the back. You have to drill two 1/2" holes in the plastic to install them, but the hole locations are already marked so there's no measuring to do.
I know I'm a bit late to the party, but does anyone have a free maintenance coupon that they won't be needing, valid for an October purchase?
Thanks,
Tim.
-juice
Craig
Craig, I saw your aux-in hack on another forum - this is great info, something I'll be trying in the near future so I can play my MP3 jukebox. If I'm feeling really bold I might try to find a place inside the radio to inject a signal without having to play a blank CD.
Tim.
Congratulations! Glad to have you on board.
Several people, including Craig, have thought up a way to get an AUX in on the stock headunit. They just need a EE to draw up a PCA to make it happen.
Ken
-juice
Craig
CRaig
So here's the routine I have developped for cold mornings. After starting the car, I hit the auto button and let the ACC automatically go to full heat once the car is warmed up. Once the temperature in the car is becoming comfortable (before it gets too hot), I hit the mode button once, which switches to semi-auto mode with the fan sending air to both the windshield and the feet. It also switches the AC on (why!?!) so I have to hit the AC button to turn it off.
The temperature settles nicely and the semi-auto mode gradually reduces the fan speed to control the temp. I no longer overcook, I no longer get hit with cold air in the face, and I no longer have to worry about the AC being on.
While I'm learning to live with HAL, it doesn't mean I'm any happier with it. I still think I was sold and I paid for an Automatic Climate Control. What I got instead is a schizophrenic and temperature challenged computer. At least I have reduced the number of times I have to look down at the ACC and I no longer get fried in the morning.
Sly
This is similar to what I did on my 02 Outback -- basically, the whole system can be controlled from the temp knob in most cases. So I guess I don't think of the temperature knob as an absolute setting, rather, it is sort of the comfort knob that controls the whole system.
Craig