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Chevy Silverado - IV

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Comments

  • scottayscottay Member Posts: 91
    Maybe showing ignorance, but why are they called *locker* rails? And what exactly are they used for? Just looks?
    I like the look of diamond plate for skins, anybody know where to get those? Made of aluminun.

    -scott
  • 2sly4u2sly4u Member Posts: 28
    I am not promoting 10k mile oil change intevervals either. I use Mobile1 10-30 and wix filters. I change my oil every 5k miles. If I go offroad a lot or on gravel roads, etc. I change the filter only at 3k miles, then oil AND filter again at another 3k miles, so 6k miles total between a complete interval.

    You do what you may, but regardless of how minute, the synthetic is a better protection than petroleum based oils. Thats not difficult to figure out.
  • alwysl8alwysl8 Member Posts: 59
    Although I am not a fan of tube steps, I was just looking at the Performance Products Catalog and some did not look to bad. It is hard to tell from the pictures, but would appear that the Manic has a little tighter fit to the bottom of the vehicle. I hate it when it just looks like the tubes are just stuck on the vehicle. If I did go with tubes, I would have them painted to match my vehicle. Has anyone painted or had their tubes painted?
  • durango508durango508 Member Posts: 37
    I haven't looked back in history to see if this has been covered, but what kind of mileage are you
    New Silverado and Sierra drivers getting? Is it
    as published, better or worse? I have been thinking of trading my Ram in for a Silverado.
    The Ram really guzzles gas....

    Thanks!
  • mannwimannwi Member Posts: 29
    I ordered a 2 wd, 4 door, with ZX3 yesterday. The dealer said they ordered one a couple weeks ago with zx3 (first one) and they already have a build week yet this year. Time will tell if I can be so lucky.
  • oilwell1415oilwell1415 Member Posts: 5
    No one had anyhting good to say about fram filters so I will say soemthing good about them. I have never used anything but Fram and have had no bad luck with them at all. When I was 16 I got a 69 Pontiac Lemans and drove it like a teenager would. My dad totalled it in 94 after we had put over 250000 miles on it. It still ran great, and we never had to do anything to the engine. The next vehicle I had was an 86 GMC pickup, which also did fine with Fram filters. The only problem we had with this truck was that the carb was too big and some idiot must have ordered it. It had the 4.3 v6, three speed on the column, 2.73 axle and a towing package. We finally got sick of rebuilding /replacing carbs and EGR valves and traded the truck in on my current truck, a 90 F-150. It has 190000 miles on it and still runs great, uses no oil. I'm 23 now and still drive like a teenager though. Trap-Artic 10W-40 has been the oil used in all of these vehicles. Bottom line: As mentioned in a previous post, many of the problems you are stating come from a reputation developed long ago. Modern products are typically only separated by a slight margin performance wise. This margin is almost always within the realm of experimental error. If you look at the fine print in most studies they tell you this.
  • powerisfunpowerisfun Member Posts: 358
    The mileage reported is very good for both the 4.8L and the 5.3L. People are reporting 18-20+ mpg highway going 75-80 mph. I imagine if they slowed down a bit (to say, 65 mph) they could probably get up to 22-23 mpg highway regularly.

    The 6.0L is more of a hog for some reason. People are reporting 11-15 mpg highway. Still not bad for a truck but not as impressive as the other two engines. It is a bigger engine and it's only available on a 700 lb. heavier truck (3/4 ton) so that accounts for some of the difference, but it still seems a bit low to me (comparatively speaking).

    In any case, unless you are really unhappy with your Ram, I would wait for at least the 2001 model year. There are still too many bugs in the '99 and 2000 model years. Plus there is "gotta have the 4-door" fever going on now, so getting a good price on the 4-door will be difficult if that's what you want.

    -powerisfun
  • mckainmckain Member Posts: 20
    I just did a roadtrip from Boston to Fort Wayne IN. 1800miles at 65-70mph. 99 xcab-SB, 4x4, 5.3L, auto, 3.73 ratio. With 4 people in the cab, every tank was very close (+- 0.4mpg) to the trip average of 19.6mpg, through the mountains or the flatland it was about the same. As an experiment I went one-way with the tailgate up and drove back with the tailgate down. I could not tell any difference in mpg.

    Around town I get 15, towing 12-13.
  • 2sly4u2sly4u Member Posts: 28
    "Has anyone painted or had their tubes painted?"

    That's kinda personal, isn't it? (Just kidding)
  • rlangford2rlangford2 Member Posts: 17
    I've got a '99 4.8L Ext. Cab 2WD w/3.42 SWB, and I get around 17.5 mpg around the city and about 20-22 on the highway(usually between 75-85mph). I've never carried more than a few hundred pounds of stuff in the bed, and the mileage still stays about the same. I've also tried the tailgate up/down experiment, and I've noticed no real difference there either.
  • scoon8scoon8 Member Posts: 24
    What kind of gas did you use on that 1800 mile trip? I have a same setup except Y2K & has been getting 13-15 mpg on city & 18-19 on HWY: all on regular unleaded.
  • afs11afs11 Member Posts: 86
    I have a 4WD Ext.Cab(4-dr) on order. I would like to know what kind of city/hwy fuel mileage I will get.

    The truck will have a 5300 V8, 4-spd Automatic, 3.73 locking rear axle ratio, P265 tires & Z71 pkg.

    Any information would be appreciated,
    AFS11.

    P.S. Has anyone ordered the Z71 off-road pkg with the Fw1 ride & handling shock absorber pkg?
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    They are called Locker rails...cuz...um..well....That's what they call them!
    They are for looks and usefull for roping stuff down.
    They push into the stake pockets and then tighten up inside the hole...kinda like expand or something.

    Putco.com has the diamond plate skins....SS i think though?....check it out.

    Alwys18,

    Check out the Putco Pipeline boards. They are like cool shaped running boards...with the pipe on the outside edge. Looks like Nerf bars...but not open.

    Really nice

    Not cheap though...

    - Tim
  • al2al2 Member Posts: 73
    After a few months of driving, what has your experience been with the Z85 Firm Ride suspension? Am considering a 4.8 excab sb 3.73 with auto trans and limited slip to pull a small (5000#) fifth wheel. Besides firmer shocks, is there anything else in this option like a tran cooler, etc?
    Is the ride very stiff (presently driving an old F150 which is comfortable) or hardly much different than 'normal'? Also, is UY2 (5th wheel wiring) still available?
    Your input is appreciated.
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    Average about 16 combined (mostly city), 19+ highway.

    Best was 21.1 on a long highway trip.

    This in a '99 LT with the 5.3 and 3.73 gears. 2wd.

    >Fram Filters<

    The reputation isn't an old one either. The guy who cut them all up did so in the last few years. Can someone post the url one more time?

    richard
  • kantonkanton Member Posts: 142
    solid 16mpg around town, driving in 3rd gear
    last time on freeway 300 miles at 1/2 tank= 23mpg

    driving in y2k, 1500, 5.3, ex-cab, 4x4, z71, open diff also have airaid filter system and flowmaster dual exhaust
  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    Thought I'd share an experience I had today with my 2000 Ext. Silverado. Went to the dealer with a wind noise problem occuring in both rear quarter glass panels at freeway speeds. Dealer told me he would replace both and ordered then for me. They came in today. Dealer sent me down the road to a local glass repair place with the replacement panels. They took one look at my truck and told me they didn't need to replace the panels...they would just modify the latches with a new system they devised just for this model of Silverado. Something to do with adding a screw. They disassemble the latch assembly and add this screw which can be adjusted whenever needed! The guy told me they do 3-4 Silverados per day.

    And it really worked! All the way home the cab was as quiet as could be...even minor road noise I had heard previously was gone. When I inspected the latches, there was no sign of abuse or tampering.

    The service manager at the dealer about fell over when I pulled back in with both panels still in the box and I told him to send 'em back to he factory as the problem was fixed to my satisfaction.

    I was especially pleased that the cure required not fooling around with the factory panels: this often leads to even more problems with leaks.

    For what it's worth...
  • kantonkanton Member Posts: 142
    Can you tell where the screw was placed or what they actually did? This would be great information for several of us. Maybe you could give a detailed description of how to do it ourselves? Sure would appreciate it.

    My y2k is going to the dealer tommorrow for this problem as well as some other computer updates. Hopefully they will fix the glass problems, if not I sure would like to know how your's were fixed with a screw. Thanks for any information.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    The word Skins is unique to a particular Putco product. They are bed rail caps, or covers. The Skin is because they custom form the metal to conform to the contours of the truck and wrap around the back corners. The Putco diamond tread is aluminum but several other companies make these as well. From memory: Dee Zee, Lund, Deflecta Shield, maybe Steel Horse. Or you can buy them from the dealer for only double price.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    Tim, if I could find the SS Skins for $155 I would jump for joy. I think that's just too low. Maybe you saw the Putco plain rail caps. Those are also SS but don't cover the rear corners and don't look nearly as nice.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    If anyone is interested I have a long article (39k of text!) about motor oil. It is pro synthetic but really delves into the technical details and explains what is different between the two oils. This was forwarded to me so I don't know the source but it starts with this introduction:

    "Title: Synthetic Oil: Rx for Long Engine Life by Curt Scott

    [Publishers Note: Since specialty car enthusiasts and street rodders
    often tend to be zealots when it come to optimum care and maintenance of their cars, and also because so many of these cars utilize smaller,
    harder working engines, we at Homebuilt Publications felt that the following article would be of particular interest to Specialty Cars
    readers..."

    If anyone would like a copy just post a request or send me an e-mail. It's worth a read.

    Vince
  • xam1xam1 Member Posts: 7
    2000 Silverado, 5300, 4spd auto, 3.73 rear, 255/70R/16 tires, 2WD ExtCab, Long Bed, with running boards, bug deflector, 'Legacy' Canopy, using air conditioner on flat-land and mountains with this crappy California gas --- over all average is 18.9mpg.
  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    Ok, I'll do my best. Although they would not let me into the service bay (insurance regulations) they did describe the procedure. The latch assembly is in two parts: One part is attached to the glass panel and the other is attached to the door post, each part held together by a plastic "arm" which pivots on a post when opened. You must disengage this arm from the post by exerting enough force so it pops out from the pivot point. The glass will now open freely. The screw (which appears to be about 2" long) is drilled in BEHIND the plastic shield--on the door side now-- until it makes contact with the door metal. Turning the screw forces the plastic assembly outwards which in turn gives you more "purchase" when closing the latch which in turn closes the panel tighter.

    It takes some real looking to even detect the screw, as it is behind the plastic shield. If you still hear wind noise, you simply pop out that "arm" described earlier and tighten the screw a bit. The guy told me to bring it back in that event, although they have yet had to do it on any truck.

    I did not have to pay for the procedure, yet I saw the bill they sent to the dealer and it was $100 for both sides.

    Believe me, it really works. Hope this helps.
  • volkejvolkej Member Posts: 108
    That fix for the wind noise is good info. What city are you in and what's the name of the glass repair company?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Fram filter test results can be found at the following link:

    http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html

    Gave a copy to a couple of my friends who own service stations. They now carry Wix.
  • mtrammellmtrammell Member Posts: 125
    Is your truck a 1500 or a 2500? If it is a 1500, your truck configuration is quite rare. It is extremely hard to get an xcab longbed in the 1500 series. I've had mine on order since July and still don't have a build date. Did you order yours or purchase it off the lot?
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Who ever asked..

    After 3 months...My Firm Ride is a dream.

    It's stiff...but I have a 3/4. The 3/4 Firm rides and handles better than a 1/2 Z71. it comes with nothing more than the shocks.

    Vince4,

    Go to putco.com.....links....and the first one listed has them for $155. all I found was 98...I didn't fell like next..next...next....and already had mine ordered...so I don't know if they have 99/00 or not?

    They will be here today..hopefully...and the Bed liner goes in this afternoon.

    Amazing how motivated I get before hunting!

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I seen and touched them both!

    ...Unfortunatly the 4 -door was just a cab on a pallet and the burb was a prototype that is being fitted with some trial kick [non-permissible content removed] ground effects.

    A place I know here does all kinds of experimental stuff for GM. I spent 2 hours last night ooooing and ahhhing.

    They came up with the extreme and z-71 tahoe..as well as the 6.0 SS thunder. They have sold one so farr.....a prototype for Jay Leno. Thay also did the tool time Van and a custom Impala SS for Tim allen with a 510 under the hood. They had another one there also.... I begged them to let me drive it...no go.

    They also just got in a 00 Extended Cab Silverado with a 510 in the bed that's going under the hood.
    Only place you might see it is in Hot Rod or something like that.

    I love that place every time I go!

    Also had the box for the new style Chevy Duelly.
    it has all that covering all over like when you see Spy Photos in books. Kinda like a hood bra. I peeled it back and took a looksee though.

    Damn nice

    Gotta run

    - Tim
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I ordered the Z85 Firm Ride Suspension when I ordered my 99 Silverado 4x4. I was disappointed, I thought it would be firm, and it was not. It rides softer than any car I have ever owned.

    I upgraded to Z71 shocks, and later to Bilsteins. I'm happy with the Bilsteins, the Z71's weren't quite firm enough with the camper on.

    For what it is worth, my dad also got the Z85 and he thought it was a little stiff compared to the standard suspension he had before.

    Mike
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    What's your pin weight on that 5th wheel? Most 5th wheels are about 20% to the truck bed. 1000lbs on the rear springs will really squat your rear suspension on the 1/2 ton, it does on mine. Quad and a few other posters on here have added air springs. I think you will have to consider this too.

    I don't understand all this stuff about shocks, they only last a year or two if you really want optimum performance. I have Z85's and they give a great ride. Sometimes I wish I had a rear anti-sway bar when driving on fast curvey roads with a load in the bed. But when I run off road, am very glad I don't have the rear anti sway bar.
  • scottayscottay Member Posts: 91
    It was posted elsewhere (cant remember ) that a place in Sacremento area was doing this fix also. In the long run the screw always loosened and the metal wasnt strong enuff at that area. (maybe too thin?).
    They also had luck w/using a heat gun to warp the handle in order to get more pressure on the seals. I think this also failed over time.
    My .02 cents worth...why drill holes in your truck when the dealer will supply new parts?
    -scott
  • jaijayjaijay Member Posts: 162
    I just read the latest consumer reports that rated the 99 full size pickup trucks. They rated the Tundra, Silverado, F140 and Ram. They liked the Silverado however the complained that it developed squeaks and rattles and that it its first year of reliablility was low.

    However in their pulling test it pulled 7000 pounds of trailer as well as the Tundra and alot better than the F150 and Ram. The brakes worked excellent as well. The Ram did the worst in their tests.

    My 99 Silverado does not have any squeaks or rattles and rides very tight. I have quite a few miles packed on it and am very happy with my choice.

    I am begining to think that many of the test drivers for Consumer Reports drive Toyotas as their daily driver cars and therefore are partial to Toyota. Being a magazine touting saftey and reliablilty, they did not give GM much credit for the rear seat head rests. I would think during a head on crash, the head of a rear seat passenger could smash into truck's rear window due to the reprocussion force. Having the back seat head rest could save a life.

    Has anyone out there have any rattles and squeaks with their truck? So far everyone that I have talked to does not and is quite satisfied with their Silverado truck.
  • planejaneplanejane Member Posts: 167
    Maybe on occasion when going over good bumps only.
  • planejaneplanejane Member Posts: 167
    completely satisfied with my SIlverado!
  • afs11afs11 Member Posts: 86
    Has anyone replaced their factory shocks with the new Edelbrock shocks?
    I have a 2000 Silverado Ext.Cab(4-dr), with Z71 on order. I want to replace the Z71 tenneco shocks with the Edelbrock shocks.
    Has anyone done this? I would like to know how the ride & handling is, has it improved?
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    I'll buy those old tenneco shocks off of you! I'm in Flagstaff, AZ. How much you want for those used shocks?

    Half ton, I assume....
  • tuckyboy1tuckyboy1 Member Posts: 36
    Only in the doors. Door clicks when opened/closed. Handle is already a little loose. Nothing major, but a little annoying at 1500 miles. Took it to the dealer for the clicking and of course, it would't do it on the dealer lot. Dealer played stupid, even though I've heard that it is a known problem and there is a TSB coming out for 99 door hinges. I will take it back again when I'm close by.
  • tuckyboy1tuckyboy1 Member Posts: 36
    forgot to mention - mine is a 00.
  • kantonkanton Member Posts: 142
    Went to the dealer today to have them fix the wind noise problem, those dumb asses said they couldn't hear any wind noise at freeway speeds!! It is so loud, I can hear it with the radio on, not on rare occasions either; always!! At any rate I will not be back to that dealer, there are about five Chevy dealers withing 10-15 minutes of each other around here.

    I looked, and tried to figure out what bassamatic was talking about, but it did not make any sense to me. I will try to find a glass dealer around here that uses the same type of fix or something similar. I will also call, not visit and waste my time, the other dealers in the area and see if they have a fix.
  • kantonkanton Member Posts: 142
    I am taking my truck in tommorrow to have a Rancho four inch suspension system, and new wheels and tires put on. So I will have four shocks (z-71), four Firestone Wilderness AT 265 WOl's, and four aluminum wheels for sale to anyone interested. I am in the bay area of CA. You can email me at anton@pon.net if interested.
    Thanks, Kyle
  • mckainmckain Member Posts: 20
    RE mileage on my trip to Indiana.

    If you are still interested, I used 87 octane; mostly Shell, a tank each of Sunoco and Citgo, couple of tanks Ammoco.
  • joelisjoelis Member Posts: 315
    I've had my 99 for exactly 11 months. The only two things I've needed service on is the notorious Windshield rattle (two sided tape) and the rear diff click (new oil). Other than that, I have had no problems whatsoever. Its strange that the rear side window noise problem is more on the 00's than the 99's. I do notice a bit of a strange sound when I shut the driver door with the window all the way down. It seems as though something is loose inside. Its fine when half or all the way up.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    I have a 00 with 500 miles on it and also have the door click. It's not a big deal. Otherwise no squeeks or rattles at all.
  • jerobbinsjerobbins Member Posts: 48
    I had the door click on my driver side door on my new 2000 Silverado. I took it to the dealer and asked them to grease the inside latch, a fix I saw in an Edmunds post (I don't know where). The door now sounds just fine.

    My passenger door just started doing that so when I take it in for maintenance I'll have them grease that one too.
  • kantonkanton Member Posts: 142
    This is a common thing on the Silverados. It is a design flaw. The only solution is to regrease the door latch. The dealer has done this twice to mine now. No big deal!
  • alwysl8alwysl8 Member Posts: 59
    Has anyone gotten an official build date for a 2000 4 door. Does anyone know if production has even started?
  • tuckyboy1tuckyboy1 Member Posts: 36
    Can you give more info on the rear diff click? Is this a common problem?
  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    In case any of you are interested, I found the perfect storage utility box for my new Silverado. It's called the "TuffBox" by Contico. I was looking all over for a storage box of some sort to store basic emergency equipment. Those large aluminum boxes were way too big for a short bed and I really didn't need that much storage. Just a place to store some jumper cables, basic tools, rope, tow strap, etc.

    This box is made of high impact plastic, and matches my bed liner perfectly. It fits along the side of the bed and goes up over the fenderwell. It does not stick out into the bed area so you really lose very little room. You can lock it, and it has a removable tool tray with plenty of storage space for the basics. I ordered it out of the latest Cabela's for $74.00. Check it out at www.cabelas.com (vehicle accessories).
  • joelisjoelis Member Posts: 315
    Dealer Service knew what it was as soon as I explained the problem, so I assume it's fairly common for 99's. When you came to a complete stop and then started off again, there would be a strange click noise from the rear end like something was having trouble releasing. At first I thought it was the brakes sticking, but it apparently was inadequate fluid in the diff. They replaced the fluid with an upgraded product (don't know the specifics) and its been fine since.
  • durango508durango508 Member Posts: 37
    I had driven a 2000 Silverado a few weeks ago and realized there wasn't an antenna, at least out front. the salesman said that they have it inside the roof or something. Is this true? Any reception problems? I remember poor reception way back when.... when they decided to have the antenna
    embedded in the windshield of cars. Anybody remember that? Also, is everyone having problems with the door latch click? Is it something that
    can be greased by a shade tree mechanic or do they have to get into the door? Going back to the dealer to get the door latch greased every now and then would seem to get old.
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