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Comments
I was washing and waxing last week when I noticed rust on the as yet unused factory hitch. I've had the truck less than 2 months. I've also seen some rust underneath and I do live in a place where the salt the roads. A little troubling if you ask me. I want to keep my 00 until at least 08 or 09, so I'm hoping that it holds up.
I guess I'll just have to be patient. 00 Sierra 1500 SLT, 5.3L, 3.73 limited slip 2wd, leather, fire red sportside. First truck can't wait. Would love 4wd but can't justify the cost for mostly city driving. Rust?!? sure hope not.
That's what axles do!
- Tim
The reason I ask is because I have this clicking sound coming from the drivers side valve train? It is only there under load. I kind of sounds like a valve is not getting lubed. It does it at just about all rpm's. I can only hear it if the radio is off. It has been there since day one. My old chevy used to do the same thing. Is this a chevy thing or should I be worried and take it in? Thanks for any info.
Kyle
Not only does the indicator light in the climate control panel illuminate, but the system is engaged. This occurs regardless of what setting the system was on when the vehicle was turned off (unless the system was completely turned off).
For example, if the "outside fresh air" blower is selected, and the fan set at level 2 - with the system directing that fresh air toward the passenger's chests, the A/C will be turned on when the vehicle is started.
After a trip to the dealer today for the first oil change, I was shocked to hear that "the software settings may be incorrect, or outdated". This vehicle was produced Wk. 3 Sept'99!
If anyone else has noticed or experienced this, please advise. Also, if you have been made aware of any service updates pertaining to this issue, please share this information.
Other than this issue, I have enjoyed my first month of ownership!
I have had it since Sept 1 (2 months), and have acquired approx. 6500 miles on it, whew! I have had to add oil to it twice, so it seems once month, OK, I know its been with me only 2 months, but has anyone had to add oil yet? Is it really using quart a month or it is me? Maybe its like this with new engines?
Shampton,
Let me know if you find software update info, I have had no trouble, but would like to know if I need to take it in.
Fun truck, isn't it?
-Cindy
Richard
LT = Light truck (more plys, way heavier duty)
If you carry heavy loads or do much driving over rocks (especially sharp ones), don't even consider the P-rated. I have seen so many sets of brand new P-rated tires shredded out here in Eastern Oregon on the long gravel roads, I wouldn't even consider going on a lot of them without a GOOD set of LT tires. Two years ago, my buddy picked up his brand new Silverado 1500 and went directly elk hunting. Got two flats on the first day. Went directly to Les Schwabs Tires, and got some LTs.
There are a lot of dirt roads here that you go about 65 mph that can litterally shred all four of your tires over the course of 20 miles if you have any kind of load. I think it's absurd to even offer P-rated tires on 1/2-tons or bigger (probably fine for a Tindra, careful with the Ginsu knives around them though). I guess if your driving will only be on the street, soft dirt, or snow, the P-tires are fine.
Break it in easy. Warm it up slowly. Don't wait 7500 miles to change oil. Change it every 3000. Use synthetic oil. It is an easy "do it yourself" on a Silverado/Sierra.
My oil level doesn't move off the full mark between changes. '99 5.3L, 15,900 miles, Mobil-1 5W/30.
nasviking, if you are looking at a 2500 they only come with LT anyway. If you are looking at a 1500, don't do it. A slide-in camper is too much for a 1/2 ton truck (except a very light popup) and the boat even makes it worse.
shampton, mine was built the same week and I don't have that problem. It's a different model but that shouldn't matter. I think the dealer just gave you the easy answer. I'm sure we'll be hearing "it's the software" quite a lot no matter what we complain of. Maybe it has to do with defrost. If you turn it off in the recirculate mode, when the problem occurs does it kick it over the outside air setting?
planejane, you are funny. Don't say a quart per month, rather a quart per 3000 miles. That sounds reasonable. I can't say the same about driving 3k/mo though!
Whether you use outside fresh air, inside recirculated air, chest, feet, chest/feet, defrost/feet, or defrost settings >>>> turn off the vehicle, then next time you get in and turn it on, the A/C goes on.
I'll let everyone know what additional information I learn after my trip to the service department.
Kanton - I still have slight ping under some conditions and I'm running 93 octane. It is getting much better though (1300 miles). Have to agree with quadrunner on the warm up. Let it warm up before driving. It runs much better when warm.
Why do you use 5w30? Is that all year 'round? You know mine is a 3/4 (not that that makes any difference...I don't know) but I have changed the oil at about 2500-3000K miles. I have been using Quaker State 10w30. What is the difference? I bet there is a whole topic on this but can you offer me some info?
I use 5W/30 because it flows faster to all the engine parts during starting, where most engine wear occurs.
5W is the viscosity of the base stock, the /30 is the equivalent viscosity at high temperatures due to the additives. All oils have a base stock+additives. A 30W single grade mineral oil has high temperature viscosity, but flows poorly when cold.
What you want in an oil is one that flows quickly, gets to all the parts, or the thinnest oil with enough shear strength to prevent metal to metal contact. The long chain molecular bonds of a synthetic polymer means the oil can be thinner because the bonds are stronger, and prevent metal to metal contact, or last longer while doing it.
Lastly, the owners manual strongly suggests 5W/30. The high temperature protection of 5W/30 is said to be as good as 10W/30 now. Same viscosity index, same, vaporization point, etc.
I used to think a thicker coating of oil was more slippery, after watching those old STP commercials where the strong man couldn't hold the screwdriver by its end after being dipped into the thick goo. But the fact is, that "thickness" just creates drag and builds heat if it's more than you need to prevent metal to metal contact.
Pull the oil filler cap and run the engine. Smoke or air pressure from the crankcase indicates a leak.
Some smoke out the tailpipe? I'm sure not, but it has to go somewhere. Puddle in your driveway, oil in your coolant...would be obvious. One guy knew because there was oil spray from the exhaust on his craftsman tool box next to his tailpipe.
-powerisfun
Needless to say 15 plus trips to the dealer for warranty work and I still do not believe problem(s) are fixed. Water through the door (carpet removed twice to be dried). Have had water leaks from both quarter glasses as well as rear window.
BBB auto line is of no value to me. TN State Atty General will be on the lemon law. Disagreement on remedy. Amounts to $1000's in GMs favor. Not this ole boy. Moving back to TN.
So, if I continued to use 10w30 (because sometimes my husband, whose motto is: "we fear change", may not believe what you say about 5w30). Since he and I ever owned a vehicle, it was common that 5w30 was winter weight oil. I also saw in another post somebody mentioned not to use Mobil 1 synthetic until after so many miles (what I don't remember) so, I haven't thought about using it yet.
I don't suspect anything is wrong yet, but that its a new engine. If I were to continue using 10w30 because hubbie wants to, will there be an problem down the line?
-Cin
my 2 cents
Richard
http://www.mattracks.com/
:^)
-- Rock
Ryan
For the people that do not know what I am talking about, my truck is a Silverado 2500 4x4 ext. cab 5-speed LS. I thought the stock 245's were too wimpy. I traded the 245's in for the 265's. The place gave me around 280 for the 245's with 1100 miles. and I paid around 360 for the 265's.
I read in a post earlier about the water leak through the windows. Im taking mine in Monday for the same problem. My passenger side floorboard gets soaking wet when it rains. They said they could fix it by replacing the seal inside the door.
Also, about how hard it is to get a 3/4 ton. I waited 2 months for my order, then found out they could not even get an allocation for it. They found mine in North Carolina, I do not know how, almost 5 hours away from me in Tennessee. They tried to trade for it, but they said they would be losing money, which they would have. The dealership in NC wanted 2 old body style crewcabs just for my truck. To make a long story short, i called up the dealership in NC, and after 2 weeks of fighting over the price, they finally called me back and gave in. After 9 hours roundtrip on a Saturday, it was in my driveway.
I haven't seen a telescope at a dept store in years, but that Jack guy on Star Gazer says they are so bright now, even with the cheapest telescope (about like mine)...I think you might even be able with a pair of binoculars.
on the 2000 Tahoe's and Suburbans will make it
over to the Silverado's at some point in the future? I've heard it works with the Locking
Raer Diff.
Here is a link with some pretty good oil info. I leave it to you, but without re-reading, I think one of the table shows that for Mobil-1 5W/30, the high temperature protection is about equal to the 10W/30. Also note that you don't get the API starburst (energy saving) symbol for anything thicker than 10W/30 anymore.
http://www.f-body.org/oldfaq/html/tech/sect2.html#chooseoil
Good luck!
Also service manuels are on the web now. Need to find someone who is friendly to give up pass word and sign on name. If you get it DON"T POST it. Not went for public yet.
I ordered an A.R.E. tonneau cover for my 2000 Silverado 1500 LT, extended cab, short bed on October 8th. The dealer (Brown's Truck Accessories of Forsyth, IL) installed it on October 29th. I paid $629 (included installation), plus $12 for 4 clamps, plus $16 for a new Wade tailgate protector to replace the whale-tail protector, plus tax.
I love this cover. The quality is excellent, and it feels very solid. It also has the exact same center line as the hood. The dealer took the extra time to make sure all the rubber bumpers were properly adjusted, and the result was a perfect fit.
I would like to caution you about one thing. My truck is meadow green metallic. The paint code, 68U, is the same for 1999 and 2000 models. However, the 2000 is slightly darker than the 1999. My dealer sent A.R.E. my gas door cover, and they used their computers to come up with an exact paint match for the cover.
Hope this information helps.
Gary
The prices you listed are much lower than here in Houston. I was told the aftermarket Whale-Fin replacement was $25. A.R.E.'s web page listed only one dealer in the Houston area. That being the case the dealer can set whatever price the market will bear. For a city of 4 million people I would expect a market large enough for other dealers. Anyone in the Houston area know of any others besides Johnson GT?
Quad, which way am I looking for the planets? I want to check it out tonight!
I'll use 5-30 from now on....even in summer.
Standard GM filter.
For a few bucks...who cares?....cheap insurance I figure...
- Tim