Chevy Silverado - IV

scottay

exactly what oil comes in the truck from GM? And why not continue to use that (other than cheap insurance)? And why change @ 3k miles? Shouldnt synthetic last much longer? Maybe just change the filter @ 3k and add a qt.? And how about synthetic blends?
-scott

tuckyboy1

According to the instructions on the bottle/box, you can mix synthetic with normal oil and they will be compatible. Everything that I've read says that synthetics last more than 3000 miles, but I changed it at 1000 and will change at every additional 3K miles. In the grand scheme of things, it's inexpensive. I love the power that my engine provides and I want to keep it in top shape.

I don't know what GM puts in at the factory, but I know that Mobil-1 meets the Corvette specs. In fact, if you go to the GM Goodwrench website, you will see that they advertise Mobil-1 as their syncthetic.

leathal02

my dealer puts penzoil in vehicle

dch0300

ryanbab,

Sorry for not responding to post #185 sooner. The picture that I sent to you of the 2000 Silverado LT, ext. cab, Z-71, indigo with black wheel flares does have 265 Firestone Wilderness AT tires.

David H.

pathomp

I did my first oil change on my y2k 6L at 1400 miles. I then went to reset the Change Oil message by pressing the accel peddle three times within 5 seconds like the manual says. But it did not come back with a confirmation message as stated; it just kept the red battery symbol up. What does this mean? Mr goodwrench says it is because I changed the oil too early, but I don't think he knows. Anybody have any experience with this?

- Paul

mtrammell

Synthetic oils have a much greater life span than petroleum based oils if a comparable quality filter is used. AmsOil warrants a drain interval of 25K miles using their super duty filters. Yes they cost more ($5.00 a quart for oil and $6.50 per filter), but if you compare the cost of 8 filter changes @ 1 change per 3K miles using conventional oil/filters with 6 qts of synthetic and 2 filters, you actually save money in the long run. I have used AmsOil in my 77 Silverado since it turned 10K miles. It has 273K miles on it now, doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes (but does leak it from the rear main, of course). I can take the valve covers off and it looks the same as the day I bought the truck. 23 years and 273K miles later and there is absolutely no sludge in the engine or oil pan.

Synthetic oil's shine isn't only in its capabilities to protect the engine parts better by reducing friction, but also in its ability to eliminate carbon/sludge buildup which will destroy an engine by depriving it of lubrication. If you plan on turning your vehicle over every 3 or so years, synthetic oil probably isn't necessary. But if you plan on keeping it past 5 years and/or you put a lot of miles on it, I would seriouly consider synthetic.

BTW, I started with Mobil 1 5w/30 but it finds a leak like nobody's business.

kanton

The reset on my y2k 1500 does not indicate it was reset either. When I was at the dealer though, I read a bulletin that was posted and it said on y2k models, the reset does not indicate even though the computer was reset. It has something to do with software updates.

I did my first oil change at 1000 miles. Castrol Syntech 5w-30. The service manager said they would not even look at the motor if there was a problem if I used Syntech and a Fram filter. So after hearing that, reading the posts here, and reading articles elswhere about oils, I promptly changed the oil again. This time Delco filter and Mobil-1 5w-30 synthetic. Now the dealer can't say much about not using the right filter!
kyle

davidschneider

I have just had an A.R.E installed on my 2000 Silverado LS 1500 Onyx Black Shortbed and am very satisfied with it. The Quality is excellant, materials seem to be first class and opening and closing is very easy. A.R.E. had a coupon on their site for $20 so I got the tonneau for $679 completely installed plus Minnesota Sales Tax. The dealer was TRUXSTOR and did an excellant job. I also had them install a Penta liner and LuVerne Stainless Nerf bars.

rwagoner

My friend used to work for Mazda. One of the projects he was on involved torture testing a 1986 RX7. The staff was to drive the car as hard as they wanted, but they were ABSOLUTELY NOT to change the oil.

Well, one new guy did change the oil accidentally, but that was at 68,000 miles. The car was then driven another 100,000 miles with no changes. Regular oil was used, not synthetic.

At 168,000 miles, the car still had no oil-related problems. The engine was disassembled to check for wear, and it was all in tolerance: very little wear, fairly clean passages. The engine is still around, working as a test engine in the San Pedro High School auto shop.

Why do I mention this? Only to state that, unless you drive short trips that don't allow the oil to warm up and burn off moisture, changes at 3000 miles are excessive and do nothing but use up resources and (unless you have your oil filters crushed at a recycling center to remove the oil trapped inside) polluting the environment.

I changed my S-10 oil every 5000 miles. At 129,000 miles it used no oil, still ran fine and was squeeky clean under the valve covers. My '67 Camaro goes 5000-6000 miles with similar results. I live in Southern California where the climate is mild and allows this, and I will soon be switching to synthetic for the added protection it provides, but if you don't use a Fram filter, anything even approaching 3000 miles is excessive in my opinion.

Richard

wang2

I know this is a slippery slope (little oil change humor), but I agree with Rwagoner, 3000 miles is excessive for an oil change interval. All of the Silverado trucks have a somewhat sophisticated engine management system, and I would be really shocked to hear that the "Change Oil" life-o-meter would go off at 3k. It's not based on mileage, but a blend of engine RPM, idle speed, run speed, engine starts and stops, et al. The reason oil change guys want you to come in at 3k is mo' money in their pockets, more opportunity to sell that $25 air filter, 'flush' your transmission... yadda, yadda, yadda.

Before somebody pipes in and gets defensive on behalf of the oil guys, I'm not knocking them. They've gotta make a buck, too. All I'm saying is, be a smart consumer and use good, common sense judgement. It's your money...

Bryan

markbuck

My '99 has triggered an oil change at 3300 miles, then another 3600 miles later.
I reset mine at 9000. The oil change reset light will come on if you wait 30s or so for the battery light to go off after you do the 3 quick wacks on the pedal.

scoon8

My Y2K 1500 LT also did not give the confirmation message when I reseted after initial oil change. I have reseted both before and after "change oil" message and both times confirmation "flash" did not occur. I thought it was b/c resetting prior to the actual message like you did, but apparently it wasn't the case.

Thank you Kanton for your info: now, I don't have to ask the Service dept.

planejane

What did your dealer say was wrong with a fram filter, that's what I've been using.

QUAD>>
Saw Jupiter and Saturn last night (with binocs) - was tricky trying to steady it but I could see the 3 moons of Jupiter and Saturn was a bit of a blurr. How amazing, now tonight is suppose to be the brightest yet, so buddy is bringing over his telescope tonight. Thanks.

agreene1

I ordered a 2000 Z-71 on July 27th for 500 over. I was told by the dealership that they had received a "start build date" of 25 Oct. How long do I have to wait? Has anybody else experienced anything like this?

northernbasser

I have had an LSII on my Onyx Black '99 Silverado since it was only a week old. It's going to be six months in a couple of weeks, and I have only good things to say about it. Fit and finish are second to none, and I put a lot of research into this. Styling, as mentioned in an earlier post really makes a big difference, too. Most of the other fiberglass tonneau covers with their flat surfaces simply look too generic.

If you lilke, you can go to

http://community-1.webtv.net/dp2000/TRUCKFORCEACTION/page3.html

to see a picture of my truck with the LSII on it. Mine is the 12th picture down from the top.

Jon

mgdvhman

are the WORST you can buy..

I used to use them also..

- Tim

nasviking

There was a site posted in the past here, can't find it now, but it reviewed all filters. Very comprehensive report. Fram got the worst rating. A C Delco(GM's filter) was the best and is available at K-mart for $2.99

rwagoner

How bad are they? Let me count the ways:

1. Lower filtering area than most others
2. Bad anti-drainback valve design (not a problem with our trucks since they face down)
3. Bad bypass valve, which when combined with the lower filtering area means you have stopped filtering the oil after a relatively short period of time.
4. (according to my auto shop teacher) Thinner metal canister than others.

Around here, Fram costs the same as or more than AC-Delco.

Fram is kind of like Microsoft ... they're the biggest so everyone buys them, even though they're crap. Combine Fram with Pennzoil ... I don't even want to think about it.

My problem lately has been finding AC-Delco. The chains don't have them any more, and the chains have put the smaller shops out of business.

Richard

rwagoner

After reading my last post, it made me think that I am still in high school. Actually my auto shop teacher told me that Fram was lousy way back in 1979. Now I teach with him, instead of taking classes from him.

Richard

teaboy022

rwagoneer

Pennzoil isn't good stuff? That is what i always use when i am changing my oil on my GMC Jimmy. I have a Silverado coming in Dec. and I want to make sure i am using the best stuff on it so it will last me a while. What is a good motor oil to go with?

Tea

jimcarr

Looking for URL of the oil filter info? Go to:

http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html

trucks4me

I highly recommend both Fram filters and Pennzoil oil, that is if you drive a Tundra.......

mannwi

I plan to order in a couple days a 2000, 2wd, Silverado,1500 LS, 5.3, 3.73 axle, Z82 tow package, G80 locking diff, ZX3 ride control suspension, K47 air cleaner, PF9 cast wheels,QCC blackwall 255/70, power bucket seats, deep tint, fog lamps, pewter/gray with 92D Medium Gray interior.

I'm not sure about the suspension option. We tow a 5,000 lb open race car trailer. A test drive in a Z85 hd suspension (2wd) was too harsh when empty. Has anyone experienced the ZX3 suspension?

Are the blackwall 255/70's all General brand? Would the raised letter 255/70's get me Firestone?

Also, we will probably not order the fourth door to just avoid the wait hassle. Any thoughts?

Any other comments about what plan to order? We are just south of Milwaukee, WI....$100 over invoice (no advertising added in).

vince4

I read two things in the 2000 Silverado Owner's manual I don't understand, can anyone enlighten me?

1) They say to not put a child seat in the front middle position in either cab style (40/20/40 seat). It doesn't explain why, it just says it won't restrain properly. Why?? That position has a manual seat belt which is probably better anyway.

2) The maintenance schedule recommends checking the front & rear differential fluid levels every 7500 miles, for ever! What gives, I've never heard of such a thing. Most cars never have this checked for the life of the vehicle. If there are no visible leaks then the level must be okay. This seems like a stupid recommendation to me but they must have a reason to put it in. Why??

Thanks

vince4

Good luck getting the ride control suspension, I have never read about anyone, in any topic, actually receiving it yet. GM marketing seemed to have jumped the gun on that one.

fishman349

I ordered a 2000 Silverado LT 2WD with ZX3 back in July. Be prepared to wait a long, long, long time. I haven't even been able to confirm that they have started to build the ZX3 suspension equipped trucks, much less get a definite build date, although the dealer says they will be building the truck this month. I'd stay away from the ZX3 if you want your truck this year. Hope you have better luck than me.

vince4

Want to see a power curve for the 6.0L? Check it out:

http://www.gmpowertrain.com./trck60TC.htm

rwagoner

Keep in mind that oil formulations change periodically, so this information may be old. But in tests run a few years ago by some engineering students at CSULB, Pennzoil tended to break down faster, at a lower heat, and contained a high level of ash (I think it was ash) due to the heavy Pennsylvania crude oil that it is refined from. At the time, the better traditional oils came from Union 76, Castrol and a few others.

I would not NOT use it, but there are other brands I like better. I other words, it's not BAD, but others are better.

rwagoner

It wasn't at CUULB, it was Cal Poly San Luis Obispo.

tuckyboy

about pennzoil - if it was the best, why would so many of the oil change places use it? They don't want to give you the best, they just want the cheapest brand name they can sell. I ran it through a lease, but my Silverado will never run on the stuff.

As for filters - always used Delco.

alwysl8

I am impatiently waiting for my 2000 LT and have even begun to enter such places as a Ford showroom in my boredom. While perusing their product I picked up their accessories catalog and was duly impressed. They have a 22 page catalog which lists all of the factory authorized/supplied accessories. It includes clear pictures of the product as well as MSRP on each item. I would say that Ford is a step ahead of GM in that regard. My dad, knowing my frustration, just sent me a 1/27" scale model of a 4 door Silverado. Given the way things are going, I will probably just get to roll that around on the floor for awhile.
I got the Crutchfield catalog recently, but was wondering if anyone knows just how much power (watts per channel) the factory radio puts out? Since this is my first full-size truck, I did not have any brand loyalty issues to deal with. Two things got me to buy the Chev - GMO and Autotrac.

2sly4u

AC Delco is the best as far as low end filters you can buy at WalMart or KMart type places. However, the Mobile1 is the best filter tested, but it costs about $10. The next best would be a WIX or Purolator @ about $5 - $6 each.

As for oil. In petroleum based - Valvoline is the best and is used more by auto racing teams than any other brand. For synthetic - Amsoil or redline is the best rated, but costs about $6-$7 per qt. For the best synthetic used for daily drivers with regular maintenance intervals, Mobile1 is the best for the money.

This is based on several different studies. It is not my own formulated opinion. I am just repeating what was determined.

My choice is Wix filters and Mobile1 10-30. I them both for my 99 Silverado and my 96 GrandAm.

ryanbab

WHered u get that toy truck at???

vince4

Chevy also has a similar brochure for use at the dealer. It's a big binder in the parts department which you are welcome to look at. The stereo is very decent for a factory unit but if you are into medium to high end car audio then it won't be enough. I would guess the power is about 12 watts RMS at 1% THD or so. Fine for moderate volume and bass levels. The door panels rattle beyond that anyway. The weak area is the rear speakers which I'm guessing is intentional. They are really midrange only speakers. Since they are at ear level I think they limited the high end so you don't hear bad reception & tape hiss so much, and limited the low end to protect your ears and because it's cheaper. The door speakers really aren't too bad, I will likely start with the rears when I get around to improvements.

vince4

Pennzoil = green sludge in old engines.

eadeneris

You guys need to do your homework. The new Pennzoil with "Clear Base" rivals the performance of synthetic oil at the price of conventional oil. All oil contains wax, oil companies "crack" the oil to remove wax and sell it. To say Pennzoil is bad oil is bull. These stories about Pennzoil causing problems is an urban myth. If someone had a problem with Pennzoil it was from not changing it or putting STP or some other additive like slick 50. That stuff is junk. Get on the manufactures web site and check out the numbers for yourselfs before you quote hearsay.

No I do not work for Pennzoil, yes I am an engineer that can interpret the numbers, and yes I have personally run many vehicles with Pennzoil for many years with no problems. Their labs and process are state of the art.

Bottom line is use what you like as long as it has the "start burst" emblem. For something simple to look at, read the consumer reports test with NY taxis. All modern oil is good, synthetic are usually recommended for Turbos, Towing, and retentive owners.

planejane

All this good info. Thanks guys.

I will definitely stay away from FRAM. No one had anything good to say about that.

It also makes sense about all the shops use Pennzoil, though. Eadeneris, are you sure? You definitely did the study? Thats interesting.

alwysl8

My dad, a consumate model car collector, got it for me from a friend in Chicago. Since my dad retired from GM he has gotten into the model car craze big time. He tells me that he has over 1500 + models tucked away in every corner of the house. The model he got me is silver die-cast and he has not been able to find another one like it. Must be like trying to find a full size four door these days.

2sly4u

Keep using that Pennzoil if you feel so strongly about it. To each their own. However, you seem to be greatly mislead by marketing ploys, not numbers as you say. There is no such thing as a petroleum based oil having better heat and friction dissipation, less breakdown, and more lubrication properties than any synthetic made. You're living in a fantasy land.

Let us know how you fair if you ever put any real miles on your vehicles. Its a proven fact that synthetics greatly increase engine longevity over petroleum based oils. If you only keep your vehicle a couple years as I do, it may be overkill. However, if you keep your vehicle past 100k miles, you will greatly see the advantage of a synthetic over a petroleum based oil, especially if you ever rebuild the engine.

On top of its better protection properties, synthetic oil is better on the ecosystem and natural resource management. I don't think anyone has to be an brain surgeon or even an "engineer" (which I happen to be also) to know that synthetics are better than petroleum based oils.

mtrammell

I ordered my Silverado back in July with the ZX3 suspension. GM wouldn't accept the order until I changed the suspension to the Firm Ride (I waited till Sept). I got an 800 number to call at GM and after 2 days of handoffs and run-around, I finally got hold of the right person. She confirmed that the ZX3 suspension was not being produced and would not be available till May 2000 at the earliest. So, if you don't need the truck right away, it may be worth the wait.

rsk

If you use the recommended weight oil (in the case of the Sierra/Silverado it is 5w30)and change your oil and filter every 3000 miles the internal engine components will most likely out last the rest of the vehicle. I don't care if you use synthetic or conventional. It is the dirt and other contaminants in the oil that causes wear. Patrick Bedard column in the November 99 Car and Driver talks about the makeup of modern engine oil. It is very interesting and worth reading.

Where synthetic has it over conventional oil is if you overheat your engine. Which is why most of the Winston Cup and NHRA teams use synthetic oil in there engines. Most people never require the added benefits of synthetic.

I have always used Castrol GTX and have never had a problem. I started using it in motorcycles years ago and like the advertisements say "it does not breakdown and foam". My last car has 140,000 miles on it. My neighbors kid runs it now. The valve covers were leaking, when we pulled them off (at a 130,000 miles) the top of the heads still looked brand new. The engine has never been overheated and doesn't burn oil. It is 91 Daytona with a Mitsu 3.0L V6. An engine that is known for dropping valve guides and burning oil. This car was well maintained and still is.

If you feel you need to spend lots of money for synthetic oil by all means spend it. All I can say is I have never had a problem with a good quality conventional oil.

Randy

mgdvhman

Vince,

Well I finally got motivated and ordered the Putco stuff from Autozone.

S.S. Locker Rails - $189.99
S.S. Skins with Holes for stake pockets - $182.99

Plus 6% for the state - $395.36 Total

Should have them wednesday and on by Thursday. I leave for Deer waiting Friday....so they will be just in time. I'll post pics Thursday.
Pipeline Boards are out of stock right now..

Oh well..

Whos says it doesn't pay to procrastinate??..DOHHHHH!!

- Tim

2sly4u

If you can use a petroleum based oil and not feel guilty for not treating your truck the best you can, then by all means, go right ahead.

After seeing the difference in engines running synthetic and engines running cheap oil, I won't even risk it on a 30k truck. Daytona's were use once and then throw away cars from the get go, so I highly doubt I would have ever invested any money in one of those cars, but a 30k Silverado that can last 20 years and still keep going....I'll give it the best possible treatment.

If you ever run synthetic in the extreme heat while towing a bass boat, you will see the difference. If you ever start a truck using synthetic in sub-zero weather, you will see the difference. It's your money. You will either pay it in the beginning or if you plan to keep it a long time, you will pay for it in the long run.

I only keep my trucks 2-3 years, but running synthetic is cheap insurance against friction heat, and oil breakdown in my opinion.

I would never buy a used vehicle from someone like you.

RichinKs

I don't know what pennzoil is like today, but you cann't trust any product based on its reputation. Back in the fifties it was considered the best you could buy. Look at Coleman camping products. A great product bought out by someone wanting to cash in on a good reputation. Same happened with macculach(sp) chain saws. And it happens with the trucks we buy. Manufactuerers only want to make a profit and look to make the vehicles just good enough for us to accept them while making a good profit. So we cann't go by how good a particluar truck was yesterday, but how good it is today. I once worked in service and was chewed out by a manager for getting too good a rating from my customers. He said I should only do enough to keep them from going to another service. So just because our granddaddy drove a Chevy (ford, dodge) 4 million miles over dirt roads with no problems isn't a good reason to buy one today. Rich

rsk

I would rather buy a used vehicle that had its oil changed every three thousand miles using a good petroleum based oil. Than one that had synthetic oil changed every ten thousand miles or more. I change my oil every three months or 3000 miles which ever come first. I have never had a problem period. More damage gets done to the engine by the dirt and acids being carried by contaminated oil as it is pumped through the engine.

Thats why GM now installs oil life monitors in it vehicles so people don't over use there motor oil.

fishman349

MTrammell could you please Email me the name and phone number of the person at Chevrolet who told you that the ZX3 suspension would not be available until May. I have been waiting way too long for my truck, and have not been able to get my dealer to come up with any useful information regarding the availability of the ZX3 package. Please Email me at FISHMAN349@AOL.COM Thanks in advance for your help.

eadeneris

If you read my post you would see that I never said or implied that conventional oils are better or equal to synthetics,it would be foolish to state that. My point was that the latest round of conventional oils (SJ) is closing the gap and for normal driving conditions have excellent performance. All modern oils that meet the US and European standards will not harm an engine in anyway unless they are not changed per the manufacturers recommendations. Synthetics do hold up much better in extreme conditions, and are "cheap insurance" if you change your own oil.

Why don't we go back to talking about what we all came here for which is Silverado's not oil, or start another topic on oil.

vince4

I think we know where everyone stands on oil. May we go on to other topics now...

vince4

Tim, that is a GREAT price on the Putco Skins. Kragen auto wants $235. However that is for long bed and you have a short bed so that's part of the difference. I'll look for the nearest Autozone but I don't think there is one close.

Thanks

mgdvhman

I saw the Skins for $155 on a site somewhere...but they only mentioned up to 98 models. can't imagine a 99/00 being much more??

Oh well.

They be on the way

- Tim