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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bandit10bandit10 Member Posts: 28
    Hello, can anyone reccomend a reliable source for a CD Repair Manual for 2WD SR5? The one I have is a Mitchel CD. And it worked great on Windows XP. But my computer fried and I bought a Windows Vista system, and the CD won't load. I tried eBay but to no avail. These CD's are an invaluable source of information. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Ben.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I get mine online - just open a free site when I want to look something up and maybe print off a page or two (Online Repair Manuals).

    Did you ask Mitchel1 if they have an update or know some way to get the CD to load? Does the CD still load in other XP computers? There's a compatibility tab in Vista for running older programs, but it helps if the CD opens in the first place!
  • duns22duns22 Member Posts: 1
    The oil change problem is eliminated on the newest 4runner generation. On the old ones the oil filter sits up so when you unscrew it all the oil runs out on your hands and on the frame. On the newer ones they added a drain cock so you can drain the excess oil in the filter before you take it off. Everything else (drain plug and oil filler) are pretty much as standard as any other vehicle.
  • bandit10bandit10 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for the info about online repair manuals. Yes the CD will work on my friends XP system. I'll also go to Mitchell directly and see if there are any updates for Vista.
  • jerbojerbo Member Posts: 1
    The "check engine light" has been on constantly for about two weeks with no sign of problems (125K mi). Two days ago it became difficult to start in the morning only, and today it will not start at all, although it turns-over. Batt & Alt appear fine; connections have also been checked. A buddy of mine mentioned the O2 sensor, but that was just a guess on his part...HELP!

    Thanks
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Not sure where you are located, but most "do it yourself" auto stores will loan you a scanner to read the code(s). If the light came on, something is wrong.

    Read the code. Spending money to try to "guess the problem" is pointless.

    Good luck!
  • rneufeldrneufeld Member Posts: 1
    Hello dcam47,
    I am Canadian working in Africa. I have a small company here. A friend brought his 2005 V6 4 Runner to me having come back from a dessart trip.
    His remarks the engine gauges first showed loss of oil pressure, then overheating, the radiator blew, there is mixing of oil and water in the radiator.

    He had the same problem 6 months ago in Apain. No parts available here. We will order parts parts through his dealership in Spain.

    I found your comments helpful.

    - need to get both head gaskets and full head overhaul kit
    - you recommeded Ishino head gaskets designed for this problem
    along with new Corteco head bolts and washers

    -we will check the head for warpage. It was already planed once the last time the headgaskets were replaced.

    Does this also apply to the 2005 model Toyota 4 Runner?
    The engine ID plate shows the model to be B1717 (fuel injected) (has Air conditioning)

    Any suggestions how to most easily dismantle the exhaust to get the heads off.

    I have no engine manual. What are head torque specs for the vehicle.

    What is the best way to get ahold of a repair manuel?
    Thanks for any advise you have.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There are some online manuals you may be able to get access to:

    Online Repair Manuals
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I have a 2002 V6 4X4 4Runner SR5 Sport with 88K miles. I am the original owner, and have had all of the routine maintenace performed on it by Toyota dealers (minus about 3 oil changes done by quik-lube type places a few years ago). I just had the 90K mile service performed, plus replaced all belts, the timing belt pully (?), plus all fluids not replaced routinely as part of that service, as well as the water pump (worked fine, but the dealer recommended it and gave it to me at cost plus an additional $50 install after haggling). I also replaced the battery myself about 2 weeks ago. Other than that, I replaced the tires about 30K ago and the current Michelins still look new. Now that I've shared the vehicle's history...

    I currently have the original brake pads & rotors. The brakes were cleaned & adjusted at the time of the 90 mile service, and I was told I had 30% left in the front pads, and 60% in the rear. When stopping prior to the service, I would feel a slight pulsing of sorts under most stops. To me it felt like the rotors needed turned, but I am a little rusty on that feeling as I haven't done it to a car in over 10 years. After the service, the pulsing feeling went away for a few weeks. I forgot to mention it to the dealer at the time of service. Now the feeling is back, although usually only when slowing down more slowly - I had a panic-type stop last week when someone pulled out in front of me and I didn't notice anything beyond the anti-lcoks then as best I can recall.

    Do you guys think I need my rotors turned, or is it something else? Is it time to replace the front pads or at least close enough to time that I should look into it now? I would like to keep the truck for at least 3 more years, and it is my daily driver as well as our primary vehicle for trips.

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    -Duke
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    If you turn you rotors it is only "stop gap" measure. They will start to "pulsate" again in a few thousand miles. I would suggest new Brembo rotors and dealers pads. If you go with after market pads you run the risk of "squealing or grinding noises". You can look at tirerack.com or elsewhere to find out about Brembo rotors.
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I definitely don't want to go the squealing route, that would drive me crazy. Why would turning the rotors result in the problem coming back in a few thousand miles? It took over 80K to get to this point.

    Thanks
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    they are pulsing because they are warped. They are warped, not because you drove 80k on them, but because metal when heated and then cooled quickly changes shape. This could happen in 2k miles.

    Turning the rotors scrapes a layer off them. At some point there is no more "layer" to scrape.

    Usually a turn will do it but at some point they will have to be replaced.
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    OK, thanks. That makes sense. It sounds like replacing them along with the pads would result in less problems going forward.

    Thanks for everyone's help!
  • bandit10bandit10 Member Posts: 28
    I believe I would have the dealer look at this because of ABS and Electrical Sensors involved, and quite possibly brake booster. Don't gamble with this. It could be something insignifagant or a serious problem waiting to happen. Don't gamble with brakes. Ben
  • fort284fort284 Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing the exact same problem with my 2000 4runner limited. Anyone have any resolution/suggestions, since I did not see a resolution in the thread? Thanks for any insight or help you might be able to provide.

    FYI, I have checked the door switches, all are traveling freely. If I manually lock all the doors (to include using the key to lock the back door), and I hit the remote lock button, it gives me the single beep saying the doors are locked. Otherwise, I cannot lock the vehicle using the remote, or either the drivers side or passenger side lock button. All methods work for unlock.
  • ktfordsktfords Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 toy 4runner, recently the ignition has been acting up. This is what happens. Usually when I have the key in the ignition (door open) and try to lock the doors, it won't let me (the car will not let you lock the doors). That option doesn't work anymore. Also, the light that illuminates the key whole no longer works. Also, when the lights are on and the key is in the ignition and I open the door, I would be told by buzzer that my lights are on, this audible sound no longer exists. Which one do I replace, the tumbler or the electronic part of the ignition? Thanks in advance.

    Kevin
  • jeremy18328jeremy18328 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 92 Toyota 4runner and I would like to throw a 3.4 liter V6 from a tacoma in it. Would any know where I could get a conversion kit from?
  • janarjanar Member Posts: 1
    Wow, my '97 4runner passenger compartment caught on fire. Luckily we were OK, but in no time it was fully in flames, exploding, very scary! TG for the fire department. I saw your message and though it's old, just had to reply
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Please let us know what the cause was if you find out. Glad everyone is OK!
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    4runner gas tank is plastic, right?
  • kpustkpust Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2007 4Runner SR5 4WD V6, 18K . Intermittantly I am getting a very heavy smell of amonia that just about knocks me out! There is sometimes also a burning smell before the amonia smell. My Mechanic cant find anything. Do any of you know what this may be? I have only had the car 1 week and it has happened numerous times. The airconditioning is not running and the windows are open when I drive. What other fluid could cause this odor? :confuse: Thanks for the help!
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Most gas tanks are light weight. Don't all 4Runners have skid plates that protect the gas tanks?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Could be a bad catalytic converter, but I think now we know why the truck was traded in early.....
  • promojumbopromojumbo Member Posts: 1
    I am having an intermittent problem with the rear window and wipers front and back. Occasionally for no reason (although it may be related to the rear gate key switch) My center console window switch will stop working. When this happens, both my front and rear windshield wipers stop working also. After a day or two everything goes back to normal. Any ideas??
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    You mention all the windows being open. With the rear liftgate window being open, the aerodynamics of the vehicle are such that they'll suck some exhaust into the cabin. The liftgate window must remain up.

    Have you looked under the vehicle to see if anything is on the exhaust system that doesn't belong there, like maybe some undercoating overspray?

    Drive the vehicle for a few days with the windows up and the air running to see if the smell goes away. Let us know what you find. Good luck.
  • md4runnermanmd4runnerman Member Posts: 72
    Ever since I got my 4runner, I thought the front wipers were noisy at times, especially if there was not enough rain falling hard. I have had them replaced once since them by the toyota dealer, but they still have a hard rubbing sound at times. Does anyone else notice this, and did you find a way to fix it?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    If at some point they were replaced by non-factory wiper arm blades (not just the rubber-the whole arm), this could very well account for the noise. This happened to me, the guy who works on my car bought cheap arms and switched them out for the original OEM arms. There is no guarantee that the dealer switched out only the rubber part. It's quicker to switch out the whole arm.
  • md4runnermanmd4runnerman Member Posts: 72
    Chuck1, I bought my vehicle new and it has been on the noisy side since day 1. I cannot imagine the dealer switching them out for non-Toyota parts, and they were changed out completely, arms and all, but who really knows anymore.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    My Toyota dealer ran a "coupon special" for air filters. At the bottom of the ad it said, "meets Toyota Specifications but not Original Toyota Filters".

    In short - with dealers anything is possible.

    If your car is under warranty - take it to the service department.
  • mjixxxmjixxx Member Posts: 1
    Hi kpust,

    Your problem is definitely the exhaust/converter. This is very common on 03-07 4runners. Toyota has a tsb and fixes this problem under warranty. For more info go to www.t4r.org and google this topic. Lots of runner owners have responded to this problem and you can find links to the actual tsb in this very good runner site. I have an 0r SR5 runner with similar problem and have the tsb but have not as yet approached a dealer with the problem
  • beercoll1beercoll1 Member Posts: 88
    I have an '03 4-Runner with 104k miles. About a month or so ago, my brakes started to squeal. I figured this was normal since I only had replaced my brakes 1 time in the 104k miles.
    when they took the front wheel off (I do not know what side), they told me my calipers had seized up and they could not free them. This meant that they would need to start from scratch in rebuilding the brakes, and all associated parts/pieces/etc. The final tally came to $1062. However, now the truck stops worse than before. As soon as I started driving away, I noticed that I had to press the pedal to the firewall before the truck would stop. I drove back to the garage and told them of this.
    A mechanic test drove the vehicle, and told me that the new brakes needed time to get seated. He told me to give it a couple of days, and I should be fine. I asked him if there were any type of adjustments that could be done, and he said no adjustments could be made.
    It is 2 weeks later, and I am taking the truck back to the dealer. The brakes have not improved over this period of time.
    Has anyone ever had this problem in the past? Does anyone have an idea of what this issue could be? Is the mechanic telling me the truth about adjusting the brakes? It seems to me that the brakes have been adjusted in the past, especially when they start to wear out.

    Thank you for your help, and for reading this message.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    Sounds like he didn't properly bleed the brake lines.
  • arkansasrosearkansasrose Member Posts: 2
    Our dealer has recommended that we replace the water pump along with the other service work as shown by Toyota for the 90,000 mile service on our 2004 4Runner. We do only highway and in-town driving - no towing or other heavy duty work with the vehicle. We've had no problems with the water pump... and the suggested maintenance does not include replacement. Do y'all think we should? We'll be taking a 1800 +/- mile trip in August. Thanks for the input.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    You don't mention if you have a timing chain or timing belt in your motor. If timing belt Toyota suggests replacement at 100K. Also, the water pump is usually replaced at that time as well.

    If you have a timing chain, then it's up to you if you if you want to replace the water pump. AT 90,000 miles I would begin to think about replacement. At 100K I would replace it. Water pumps may or may not give a warning before they start to leak.Also, this isn't a job the dealer has to tackle. A good independent can perform this work as well.

    How much is your piece of mind worth in the heat of August driving almost 2000 miles?

    Only you can answer that.
  • arkansasrosearkansasrose Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Chuck. That's good info, and we'll talk some more. ~~Arkansas Rose
  • beercoll1beercoll1 Member Posts: 88
    Thank you for your message....I told the mechanic to bleed the line......I am assuming they did, because now my brakes work like they are factory new.

    Thanks again!!!!
  • dacarpenterdacarpenter Member Posts: 10
    Just happened yesterday: turned engine on and 10-15 sec. later hear a click and RPM jumps from 750 to 1000 and it keeps repeating. Then later that day I shifted to neutral while on downhill and and again click and RPM jump to 1000 and back to normal. 96 4R 3.4L 6-cyl. with 90k miles. What that could possibly be?
  • help09help09 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94' 4Runner, and it recently started making extreme noises, like a clicking and rattling. It happened when i was driving and saw that my rpms were very high, the noises are very loud and increase as i accelerate. My oil was checked for metal pieces and none were found. I'm told that it could possibly be a thrown rod, or rod knocking. Any suggestions? Any help would be much appreciated!
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    Sorry I can't help directly, but I did throw a rod on a 93 dodge once and it had a definite noise like someone hitting the engine block with a hammer.
  • help09help09 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks anyways! So how did you fix it? replace the engine?
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    Luckily, it was under warranty at the time, so I got them to give me another truck (after a long fight)
  • andy3882andy3882 Member Posts: 1
    Same problem with my locks. Have you found a solution to the power unlock but no power lock problem? Please Help!!!!!!! I cant afford to go to the dealer
  • dfleetdfleet Member Posts: 1
    Thank you for this information with the phone numbers, etc., to report this sludge problem which WE now have on our 2000 4Runner with 120,000. The gentleman at the Toyota 1-800 number was very pleasant, and gave us the reference #, etc., which you said we'd get. I'll call NHTSA on Monday, as they were closed today -- Saturday.

    Interestingly, when we had our car towed to the nearest Toyota dealership, after getting stranded in Kansas when the oil light came one (plenty of oil, which LOOKED nice and clean, too), they didn't mention that this sludge problem has been so prevalent. Perhaps they're discouraged from mentioning it??

    I agree, though, that people need to get this word out, and apparently it's not just the Camrys and Highlanders with the sludge, either.

    dfleet : :(
  • msrdumasmsrdumas Member Posts: 2
    Do you still have this 1997 4runner? Did you ever come up with an answer? I am having the same problem with mine. It has been in the shop six times and they can't seem to fix it.
  • msrdumasmsrdumas Member Posts: 2
    HELP! The rear seals keep leaking. The Toyota dealership repaired it the first time, therefore, it is under repair warranty. BUT it is VERY ANNOYING AND TIME CONSUMING. Not to mention the fear of it locking up. The fluid keeps getting on the rear brakes causing them to lock up. The dealership had the rear axle sent to the machine shop to have them press them on. No help, it did it again. It is at the shop once again and they are going to machine press them again. Why? I do not know.... After six trips I am very tired and frustrated. HELP!
  • mr10mr10 Member Posts: 4
    Gentlemen: I purchased a 99 Runner this past March with no records.Now that it is almost 90,000 miles I will bring it to a Toyota dealer to perform only the necessary maintenance required.The truck runs flawlessly.There are absolutely no problems with it.What things need to be done? I don't want to give the service manager the go ahead to do whatever he recommends.I know they work on commission.Thanks...Joe

    '
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the Edmunds Maintenance Guide. It'll tell you what Toyota recommends and will estimate how much it should cost in your zip code.
  • mike805mike805 Member Posts: 33
    That is a good list to go by but the only thing they did in my case was change the oil for $143. I do my own repairs so I am always amazed as the dealer costs. Most of their servicing now is just inspecting things like stearing, A/C components, etc that anyone can do. If something looks wrong you can then take it to a garage for repairs if you don't feel up to the job. On a 4 gen 4Runner there is no grease fittings except 4WD driveline and no means to check the transmission level so there is very little to do except inspect components for damage or leakage.
  • spyder599spyder599 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 V-8 Limited edition 4Runner. I do regular maintenance and have had very few problems. My daughter took my car to Oregon from California and no problems until this a.m. when she was driving up hill and a clicking and grinding started. She turned the car off and back on without any cure. SHe pulled it over and is going to check it after her work at 12:00 - I'm wondering if anyone is familiar with anything which this might be - the vehicle has 93,000 miles and I use synthetic oil changed every 5,000 to 7,000 miles, full maintenance etc. Not sure if I should have her drive it to the dealership or repair facility.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    May not be the motor. U-Joints?
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