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Comments
K.
We have been lucky that the fuel pump and transmission did not leave us stranded, but we have concerns about its reliability.
Not to mention Purchasing a SECOND set of tires on a car that has 43,000 miles. The last set of tires should have been repalced last year but I could not bring myself to buy tires every other year. I am a carpooling mom and do not drive the car in a manner that chews up tires.
Has anyone had to have the transmission replaced more than once? Should we be expecting another major problem? Computer or electrical?
Has anyone tried NOT filling up with high test? 13 mpg with super is becoming more difficult with these ridiculous gas prices.
The volvo dealer is also a buick dealer. We took a peek at the enclave that is another first edition suv.
Never drive the xc90 out of the showroom without a warranty!
Thought it was normal until I saw this forum.
They said pirelli would pick up 75% of cost but it still cost me $515 for my share.
Volvo / Pirelli should own up to defect and replace tires for free. Not that I want terrible Pirelli's on again. I have an M3 which is still on its original continental tires at 20k
Volvo replaced the computer system 5 weeks ago but it has happened again.
First the car lurches and there is loss of power, then the check engine light comes on then Brake failure lights Abs light car overheats and I have to be towed. I am afraid to drive this car on the freeway.
Has anyone else had these problems. This car was leased thank goodness I did not buy it. Also had to replace tires at 20,000 miles.
The owner's manual states that TPMS is an option. The manual states in footnotes that the "Canadian models only" allow the TPMS to be recalibrated or deactivated. Therefore this very nice feature is not available on US models. Evidently in the US model the TPMS system only makes its presence known when a tire is low. So you would have to deflate a tire to the threshold below the correct pressure and drive the vehicle over 20 mph and see if the indicator light would come on and a message appear in the message field.
I keep the tires inflated on this vehicle with a manual bicycle pump, so it would be easy for me to test this system, but I have not bothered to see what level of underinflation would trigger a warning. There may be different warnings in the text box depending on the level of underinflation.
I found that Michelins & Hanook tires wore at less than half the rate described by the xc90 owners who had the stock pirelli tires.
Is it the tires on the front wheels that you think are wearing excessively? Is there any pattern to the wear, for example, are they wearing on the outside edge, both outisde and inside edges, or in the middle?
I was planning on buying one, but after reading these posts, I'm changing my mind.
I know the following Tirerack article on wheel alignment is a little long and involved, but reading it may be a benefit to you.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4
If this is your first SUV, then you might be comparing it to regular passenger cars which are lighter and lower. All SUVs wear tires faster than regular passenger cars. SUVs are heavier and have a higher center of gravity, both properties contribute to faster tire wear.
I would summarize the basics of the Tirerack article as far as front wheel alignment and what could be a cause of excessive war on the outisdes of the front tires. There are three axes that the front wheels are aligned along, called toe, camber, and caster. Except for wrecked cars, nearly all alignment adjustment is to toe and camber so I'll explain those first. You might have thought that the wheels should all be straight and vertical, but there are control reasons why this is not the case.
Toe is the direction the wheels are pointed down the road viewed from above the car. The front wheels are often aimed not straight ahead, but aimed in at the front toward the center line of the vehicle. This is called "toe-in". And often this is not symmetric--one wheel may be specified to be aimed in at a slightly different angle than the other. My understanding is that if the front wheels have excessive toe-in, then this will cause the outsides of the front tires to wear excessively. Evidently some cars are designed to be set with the front wheels pointed sightly out, called "toe-out", or maybe straight ahead.
But when front wheel drive (FWD) vehicles are under strong accleration, the front wheels tend to pull themselves into an increased toe-in configuration, especially if the vehicle is heavy and the suspension is soft (sounds like the set-up of most SUVs), so frequent strong acceleration would be expected to cause tire wear on the outsides of the front tires.
When rear wheel drive vehicles (RWD) are under strong acceleration the rear driving wheels tend to push the front wheels into a toe-out configuration, which, as I understand it, would cause wear on the insides of the front wheels. I suppose an AWD vehicle which is biased toward FWD would, on good pavement, act like a FWD vehicle.
Now consider the camber adjustment. Viewing the vehicle from the front, the front wheels are not "plumb" or vertical, usually they are farther apart at the top and closer at the pavement. This is called positive camber. This means that the front wheels are contacting the pavement more on their outside edges. If there is excessive positive camber, then this will cause excessive wear on the outsides of the front tires.
I also use 40 to 42 psi in my 2004 V70 which still has the original Michelin MXV4 plus Energy 195/65-15 (max infl pressure 51 psi). The ODO is at about 34,000 miles and the original tires still have quite a bit of tread. One of the OE tires was replaced due to a puncture in the sidewall.
Perhaps you should try the Michelin 4x4 Synchrone, or you could try a less expensive tire like a Khumo, which are probably a better value. Looking at the Tirerack prices I see that the prices of the 235/60-18 size is a lot higher than the 235/65-17, and the selection is much more limited. It might be cost prohibitive to sell your 18" wheels and get new 17" wheels, but you might consider it. Maybe you could sell or trade your 18" wheels. The total outside diameters at the tread are the same for these two wheel/tire combinations.
Let us know what you ultimately decide on.
Kumho Road Venture APT KL51
(Highway All-Season)
Overview | Specs | Warranty | Reviews
Sidewall Style: Blackwall
Size: 235/60VR18
Serv. Desc: 103V Load Index 103 = 1929lbs (875kg) per tire
Speed Rating “V” = 149mph (240kph)
UTQG: Treadwear: 600 Traction: A Temperature: A
Price: $109.00 (each)
Estimated Availability: In Stock
Optional Road Hazard Program: additional $13.08 per tire
Here's one review:
Initial Review, 3,000 Miles on Tires
March 06, 2008
Great tires, bonus is savings over big brands. Much better than Bridgestones that were OEM. If I drove in hardpacked snow and ice, I would probably go with all terrain tires. On a recent trip I found myself stuck twice. In regular snow, no problems. However, they are great on the road. Price was less than half what the dealership wanted to sell me Michelins for!
New to forum, & have seriously considered a brand new '08 xc90 3.2L
From Canada, & wondered if anyone's had any issues with a recently
purchased XC from 07/08?
- sounds like the extended warranty should be purchased at the end of the
factory 48mos "bumper-to-bumper" transmission excluded warranty
- sounds like bearings & electrical are also issues.
Love the style, concerned with the reviews & hope things have been adressed
by the MFG regarding the common 04-06 complaints.
This will be our ONLY car.. making repair trips painfull.
TIA for any current model complaints/issues.
Buying in Hamilton/ Oakville Ontario area...?
She declined all extended warranties and is self insuring against expensive repairs.
What's your mileage if you don't mind me asking?
We don't have the same option to self insure here, so we'll likely take the basic 48mos warranty, keep if for another year or so without payments & roll the dice on that time frame after warranty..
cheers!
By "self insure" I meant we would pay for any out of warranty repairs. I didn't mean that we arranged outside insurance. I'm all in favor of insurance for health and life, but I figure I can budget for auto repairs.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The good news we replaced the tires again, but this time we got Cooper and stopped using premium gas. Now for the good news................... the best gas mileage in five years. We have no idea if it is due to the lower octane gas, different make tires or both. But who cares. For the past five years I have never seen the mpgs go up to 16 (approximately 12). This is very exciting when gas is just a few cents away from $4 a gallon.
I hope this can help someone else out! Ease the pain at the pump and stop buying the crappy Pirelli tires!!
Also, when I pressed the door lock button on the drive and passenger side door, nothing happens with that door. Is this a fairly common experience or am I just that unlucky? We have the balance of the factory warranty and we purchased a 6 year warranty for the car, so the maintenance is merely an inconvenience at this point.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Thanks for the tip.
thinner oil actually lubricates a cold engine quicker. such as "zero-weight" oil available now. there's an oil additive in there. beware!? please just use the recommended oil (I think volvo recommends synthetic for your vehicle now even though it did not when your manual was printed!). volvo often recommends a thicker weight for summer >100F or >90F temps, not sure if that's true for the T6 engine too, but is summer is the time when you would want the thicker/recommended oil.
I have a 2004 XC90 3.5L T6 with 67,000 and recently had a 65000 service. The dealer told me that the car had an oil leakage at the head gasket with a repair cost of $4,013.22 and a faulty power steering rack needs to be replaced for $2065.70! I told my service advisor that it should not happen at this mileage at all and asked if Volvo should cover the repairs. Of course they told I'm out of luck and these problems happen every now and then. I believe this should be covered by lemonlaw. I'm very dissapointed with Volvo and will never own another Volvo again. I'm concerning about the transmission is potentially at risk next after reading a few owners had tranny problems with the T6 at lower mileage. Best of luck.
Have you noticed an actual oil leak? spots on your garage floor? having to add oil periodically? running rough at all? And what is with the "faulty power steering rack"? Have you noticed any problems in that area? If the answer to all of the above is "NO," then I suggest you take it elsewhere for a second opinion.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm going to inquire at my dealer how much they want for an extended warranty, but unless I feel its a good deal, I'm playing the odds and not buying one.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you do buy a policy the best bet may be through Volvo itself rather than the "privates" as a large number of them have gone bankrupt of late leaving policy holders holding "nothing". Remember that insurance companies are all in the business of collecting premiums and denying responsibility. Volvo is not likely to go bankrupt, and also has a reputation (of sorts) to try to maintain.
Good luck, and let us know what happens.
Extended Warranties (the CarSpace discussion)
Extended car warranties - don't be a pushover (a recent Consumer Reports article summary)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S