Volvo XC90 Maintenance and Repair

lspod

Hi -
I do NOT have a turbo XC 90..........

Still have a few days to decide if I should spend $1800 for an extended 3 yr/75k warranty - currently have 45k on the car, and have not had any major problems. So far I am hearing to definitely purchase one if I have a T6, but I don't!

jim314

I believe that the 2.5L engine in your 2004 XC90 is turbocharged, but it is a turbocharged model that has a much better reliability record than the T6. I think the 2.5L is a light or medium pressure turbocharged 5 cyl designed to have better low end torque and increase the max hp to the low 200s hp. Look on the window sticker, if you have it, or check the internet.

You will have to decide whether it is worth it to you to pay the $1800 for an extended warranty. We declined any extended warranties on both our 2004 V70 2.4L non-turbo and our 2007 XC90 3.2L FWD (also not turbocharged), but that is our bias. I do have good health insurance, but I cannot bear to think my vehicle is so costly to repair that I need to insure against the cost of repairs.

qbrozen

You don't even need to look for that sticker. I can tell you for a fact that you have a turbo. In '04, there were only 2 models available, both turbos, but one was a inline 5 cylinder 2.5 and the other is a twin turbo inline 6 cylinder 2.9. But it is as Jim says, the 2.5T a low-pressure turbo. Your engine has proven to be quite reliable. But its still a call you have to make on the warranty. Is that 75k total miles? So $1800 just to cover you for 30k miles from now?

tatilija

If you have an 03 or an 04 XC90 you will need the extended warranty for the Transmission not the Engine. It is a GM Transmission and that transmission is not strong enough to pull the weight of that car, Volvo no longer uses the GM transmission they switched to Japanese. We got 108K miles before our transmission went out but my husband drove that car like a little old man . . I would say you are getting close to having problems. You can look all over this site there are many people that have had problems with theirs at 35K, 40K, 50K ....its up to you. If I were you I would read the posts from months ago on this issue... good luck.

qbrozen

still just a T6 problem, as far as I've read (and I've read quite a bit at this point).

barbara16

Hi, Back after a short rest. My 03 has a new noise that has me concerned. I have noticed I hear a tapping noise while backing into my driveway with my foot on and off the brake. Anyone out there that had this problem? And is it a minor or major repair? What should I be expecting? If this is the start of a big problem I am still under extended warranty, should I let Volvo do a spit shine job or wait until the problem needs to be addressed completely. That would save me several return visits to the dealer and much aggravation!
Any thoughts?

dilijue

I have a 2003 XC-90 T6 (first model year) and the transmission utterly failed at 15,000 miles. We first experienced two occasions of slippage where the dealer made computer software adjustments instead of replacement. Finally, the trani failed and car was towed to service at 15,000 miles. Under warranty, they gave us a "rebuilt" transmission AND NOW at 69,000 miles, we are having problems with it. Under an extended warranty they are doing a repair on a "leak inside the transmission"...who knows if this will be an effective fix or just a temporary repair that will cause a trani failure shortly down the road (when the extended warranty expires?!!). I just bought a 2008 Porsche Cayenne V-6 base model. We've had 7 Volvos over the past 30 years, but probably no more, when we replace this XC-90.

revjeanne

Hello - did you find a solution to your intermittent a/c switch? problem? I'm having the exact same problem.

Jeanne

pinkydog

Just want to provide an update. As you see below, the car was repaired in February 08 for what turned out to be bad inner timing chain seal and #6 spark plug showed fouling. I guess the seal was replaced according to Volvo Tech's decision. The engine broke down again for the second time. This time, the engine's leaking oil and had stained my garage floor. The #6 spark plug is still fouling/fouled. The check engine light came on. It has now spent an additional five days in the shop, awaiting parts for cylinder head repair. I was told that I should have the car back next week. I think the VCNA techs would like to continue the experiments with me and my family behind the wheel.

Remember, this vehicle is not even five months old and has already spent a total of 16 days in the shop, and counting. I am from Florida, and yes, I have contacted the State Attorney General's office already.

I'll let you know what Volvo/VCNA will do to my request of replacing this evidently defective product of theirs.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------
Picked up my XC90 3.2 FWD last week with 9 miles on it. Exactly one week later (today), it has 485 miles, and a message warning: "LOW OIL LEVEL" and the red triangle sign is lit. Checked the oil, barely made it to the dip stick bottom. It blows white/bluish smoke upon starting, but goes away after a little bit. Also blows bluish/wite smoke when accelerating. No visible leaks in the engine compartment and underbody. The car is currently being driven normally mostly in city driving. Where did the oil go? Is this normal for a 7-day old car? I know engines consume oil, but this is a brand new car with less than 500 miles on it. Thanks in advance for your insights.

qbrozen

well, the fouled plug and blowing blueish smoke on startup and acceleration definitely sounds like a head problem (leaking valve seals). However, the oil on the garage floor would not be explained by that. Sounds like 2 problems going on to me.

camille9

I just traded in my 2004 XC90. Transmission failed on the road at like 24,000 miles. They acted like they were so shocked. After I traded it in Volvo said the transmissions were a BIG problem with those earlier SUVs and I think there was even a recall. Do not let them make you pay. It is a MAJOR issue with all the earlier SUVs. That 2004 was the biggest lemon. The steering column went next... be prepared.

brewhat

I've also noticed a musty smell from my 2007 XC90. I brought it to the dealer in April and their solution was to replace an air filter, at my expense. (So much for a new car warranty.) So, when the same smell occurred when I turned on the AC when the weather became more pleasant, I returned to the dealership to try to have the problem resolved. After waiting for about 2 hours, the service rep showed me a memo from Volvo outlining the steps involved in eliminating the smell, which is apparently a common occurance. The first step was to replace the filter, which was already done several months ago. The next step in the official Volvo directive was a "cleaning" of the air conditioning/air filtering system. That included replacing, once again at my expense, said filter. I told them to go ahead and clean the system and skip the filter replacement (which will be done anyway in about 1200 miles at the 15000 maintenance). Now my car stinks like shaving cream and I'm furious because I'm convinced that the air conditioning and filtering system does not work properly and there's mold growing in my car.

onawhim

I have also had intermittent problems with a musty smell. I have a 2005 XC-90 V8. I discovered that the cars are/were shipped from Sweden with the after-blow software deactivated. Once the cars are here, it has to be activated by the dealer. If not, the condensation sits in the AC system and gets smelly. Since mine has been turned on, I have not had the problem and I often get in my car even an hour or two after driving it and find that it is blowing out air. It is worth finding out if your after-blow is on.

revjeanne

After a year of working on it, they finally replaced the compressor, and it seems to be fixed and running well now. Thanks for everyone's contributions.

beer1952

Have mine over 2 years now (25k miles) still operates flawlessly. By the response rate of your mail we seem to have made the right choice. The 2.5T has been around for many years; never trusted the newly developped beefed up engines, especially not in the first years. Never wanted a tractor or race car anyway.

Regards,

Beer<a href="http://www.madoe.nl/volvoxc90/Albums/Album1/Source/IMG_4804.htm

cheapskate7

Lost switchblade remote. Programed remote/key $500 at dealer. Remote with key blank available for $29.92 from Midwest Keyless Inc. If dealer willing to program remote [and fashion key], what are chances of success?

volvomax

The remote MUST be a brand new one, witht the pin code.
A used remote cannot be re-programmed.
Also, the dealer cannot cut the key.
Key has to come from Volvo Cars.

cheapskate7

Thank you volvomax. Over the years many of us have relied on your expert advice. Volvo not alone on the rip off - understand Lexus charges over $700 for same "service." FYI - San Diego Volvo apparently has the very expensive machine for cutting the key with same day turn around [ are they charging extra for the convenience ]?

volvomax

Don't know anything about SD's key machine, or whether or not it can handle laser cut keys.

tlawrence70

Has anyone experience problems with continually leaky tires/wheels? I've replace my front tires because they leaked although no one could ever find a leak when they went looking for one in the tire. Now the new ones leak too and it's been suggested that I need new wheels! Can anyone offer any advice? I was told they're not covered under warranty although my car is still officially under warranty.

Thanks,
KY Volvo owner

qbrozen

this could be tough.
it does seem like you have a wheel problem. Whether or not you can get it covered is the tough part. I would be emphatic. Call corporate if need be. Explain that the car has obviously never been in an accident. The wheels are visibly undamaged, supporting your "no accidents" claim. So the only conclusion is that they must have come defective from the factory. See if the shop can "prove" this somehow and get you free replacements.

volvomax

Chances are, the wheel is bent or cracked in some way.
It will be very hard to convince Volvo Cars that this is a defect.

peppergurl

Are the wheels chromed? I had a problem like this with a Honda I used to own. My wheels where chromed and the chrome began to chip and peel so the air escaped. Honda wouldn't cover the problem because the wheels were chromed after factory.

jim314

A possibility is corrosion of the sealing surface of the wheel.

"Thoroughly cleaning the buildup of corrosion from the bead area on the rim is an important step whenever a tire is dismounted or mounted on an alloy rim. In addition, tire shops can apply a special sealer to the rim area to help seal the tire bead and prevent future air leaks." Link.

"I just had the same problem and I finally found a mechanic who fixed it by sanding the seats with 180 grit sandpaper until good clean aluminum is visible."Link.

But this source suggests that just sanding would be a very bad idea.

"Aggressive cleaning can trigger air leaks in alloy rims

When the air leak can be pinpointed to the bead area, the bead should be cleaned gently with a non-paint-removing solvent, the tire mounted and a quality bead sealer used. This should resolve any issues of leaks around the bead.

If the bead area has been cleaned so aggressively that the clearcoat is removed, the tire will leak at the bead. I've seen shops use a grinding wheel on the inside of a bead, then remount the tire with all the clearcoat gone.

After that kind of a cleanup, the inside of the bead area should be repainted. It doesn't have to be clearcoated; I fancy a nice neon colour myself.

The paint reseals the alloy and when it has dried and hardened, the tire can be mounted with bead sealer.

Wheel weights should not cause corrosion. The shop in question used incorrect weights: alloy wheels require plastic-coated weights that can't react with the alloy.

The corroded areas should be cleaned and sealer applied. If there are too many spots of corrosion around the bead and weights, you may have to have the wheel totally refinished.

Cost is about $125 a wheel. Or you could simply buy steel wheels for around $80 each. "
Link.

wirelessbitz

Like others, I am trying to distinguish between the 2.5T and T6 models in the 2004 year. The engines are obviously different, but apparently so are the transmissions. I found the following quote at wikipedia:

"The 2.5T was the entry level version and offered a 2.5L 20 valve turbocharged inline 5 engine putting out 205hp and 236 lb-ft mated to an Aisin co-developed AW55-50/51 5 speed automatic. The T6 offered a 2.9L 24 valve twin turbocharged inline 6 with 268hp and 280lb-ft mated to a GM-sourced, Volvo modified 4T65EV/GT 4 speed automatic."

I have a 2004 2.5T AWD with 55k miles on it. I have not had any problems until last week when the electrical system went crazy similar to some others here. Unfortunately nobody seems to have found a common solution, and neither has my dealer since after 'fixing' it, it did it again this weekend and was towed back this morning. So it appears that I don't have the tranny issues like the T6, but perhaps wheel bearings and some of the other issues on this forum. However, everyone should remember that all car forums like this bring in the folks with the problems, so caution should be exercised before making any decisions (like the one I'm facing...).

Like many others I am not interested in a car that is not dependable after the warranty is up. I was a bit concerned with buying a Volvo since dependability is always a requirement.I like not having a car payment but perhaps a lease will be required going forward for the wife/family car...

Perhaps the 2.5T owners should start their own thread to distinguish from the T6 flaws...

qbrozen

Good post.

However, as I believe the engine and tranny are the only major differences between the 2 models, I think this place is fine for all to co-exist. There is a thread dedicated to just the T6 tranny. I believe that should suffice. Just my opinion, of course.

anninainohio

We're considering trading in our '06 XC70--which has been the best of the 3 Volvos I've owned--for an '08 XC90 V8 simply because we could use the extra seats. Is anyone aware of transmission, tire or other problems with this particular model (V8)? We need AWD and are, therefore, not considering the 6-cylinder.

I really appreciate the help!

jim314

You can get AWD with the 6-cyl, and it should get better mpg than the 8-cyl.

volvomax

You can get AWD with the 6-cyl, and it should get better mpg than the 8-cyl.

About 2 mpg better than the V8.

anninainohio

With all the problems posted here on the "VOLVO XC90 V6 Transmission" page, I'm scared off of buying a 6-cylinder model. In fact, that's the reason I posted my original message, i.e. I'm trying to determine whether all the transmission and tire problems on the 6-cyl also affected the V8 model? Thanks!

jim314

The tranny problem was with the Volvo XC90 T6 (not a V6 engine) . The 6-cylinder engine in the 2007 and later Volvo XC 90 3.2 is a non-turbocharged inline 6-cylinder engine (I6) with a different tranny from the problem one in the T6.

On the highway my wife's 2007 XC90 3.2 I6 FWD gets as much as 26 mpg. I would bet that the I6 will get as much as 4 mpg better than the V8. The 3.2L I6 is a brand new engine design.

I think the V8 and the I6 have the same 6-speed auto tranny made by Aisin in Japan. I think this is the AWTF-80 SC, but I wish Volvomax would confirm on this.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AWTF-80_SC.

AWTF-80 SC
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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The Aisin AWTF-80 SC is a 6 speed automatic transmission designed for use in transverse engine applications. It is designed to handle a maximum of 440 N·m (324.5 ft·lbf) of torque. It is built in Anjo, Japan. It is also called the TF80-SC, AF40-6, AM6 and AW6A-EL.

The design team set out to create a 6 speed automatic that fits in the same space as a manual gearbox. It measures 358 mm (14.1 in) in length and weighs 90 kg (198 lb). Its combined use of a conventional 5-pinion planetary gearset and a compound Ravignaux gearset makes it incredibly light and compact. This combination is known as a Lepelletier arrangement. The shifting of gears is managed by a sophisticated computer programme which over-sees a clutch-to-clutch actuation. Gear changes are accomplished by one clutch engaging the instant the clutch from the previous gear disengages. The transmission control module (TCM) is located inside the transmission housing, instead of being located outside it. The advantage of this is to reduce external wiring as well as to provide a constant environment for TCM operation which encourages longevity. One aspect of the advanced nature of the electronics is at idle, it automatically selects neutral gear to reduce internal temperatures and improves fuel economy.

It utilises a special AW-1 transmission fluid which is labelled as being maintenance free. It has a fluid capacity of 8.0L (8.45qt).

All wheel drive transfer cases can be fitted to the AWTF-80 SC, making it ideal for use in cross-over type SUVs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_SI6_engine

http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20050614/FREE/506140704&Searc- - hID=73295944060540

volvomax

3.2 and V8 do share the same transmission.
V8 is capable of 25 MPG cruising on the highway.

jim314

1. Am I right that the V8 is only AWD?

2. Am I right that the base 3.2 I6 is FWD, but AWD is an option? So for the 3.2 AWD must be ordered from the factory, right?.

3. Who is the manufacturer of the V8 engine?

anninainohio

I can answer #1 and #2:

1. Yes, the V8 comes standard with AWD
2. No, you do not need to order it from the factory. Here in Ohio, most of the 3.2 I6 models on the lots have AWD.

volvomax

1. Am I right that the V8 is only AWD?

Correct.

2. Am I right that the base 3.2 I6 is FWD, but AWD is an option? So for the 3.2 AWD must be ordered from the factory, right?.

Most markets carry the 3.2 AWD pretty readily.

3. Who is the manufacturer of the V8 engine?

The engine is a joint venture between Volvo Cars and Yamaha.
The engine is built at the Yamaha factory in Japan.

onawhim

I have a 2005 XC90 V8 and I love it still. It has been problem free at almost 60K miles. We did replace two tires around 29Kmiles and then a while later, the other two. I fully expect that tire wear on a heavy vehicle is going to be faster than on a lighter car. There have been 0 engine problems overall, everytime I get in my car and start if up, I'm glad that I got it.

By the way, my father got in it the other day to drive it and said, "I forgot how nice a new car is to drive". I enjoyed reminding him that it is now three years old. Despite the mileage which with today's prices could never be good enough, I am very happy to put my kids in that car everyday. Also, I love how easily the third row seat is to deal with after having to strong arm a Honda Odyssey's thrid row bench.

jim314

What is your "typical" city and highway mpg with this 2005 XC90 V8?

wirelessbitz

As an update to my issues with my 2004 AWD 2.5T, turns out the main electronics control module was bad. At the same time the front seat motor stopped moving fwd or backwards. Together it would have cost nearly $2k but with minor complaints on my part, Volvo picked up more than half the cost and it 'only' cost me $800. I'm still not happy with that on a vehicle like this, but not much I can do.

I seriously considered trading it in and going with a lease vehicle, but financially that just doesn't make sense. My math was as follows:

My xc90 is worth ~$18k. A 3 year lease ~$500/mo. So my money from selling the xc90 would pay for the 3 year lease (approximately of course). If I did the lease deal then after 3 years I would have no vehicle and no equity and would be facing another lease or purchase from zero. If I keep the xc90 I can assume that it will be worth ~$10k at the end of the 3 years. So assuming that the repair costs on the xc90 during this 3 years is much less than this, I end up with somewhere under $10k in my pocket. The missing piece is that if I lease a car I can assume that we can drive worry free, whereas with the xc90 I'm a bit nervous about the next major calamity.

So I don't see enough incentive to get rid of the xc90 because it is not worth $10k to have a newer vehicle to drive. We really like the xc90, altho if I had the T6 I would probably get rid of it due to the transmission issues.

My thoughts...

jccai1

We've owned this one since purchasing it new in late 2004. It has been a enjoyable and relatively trouble free vehicle until recently - just about the end of factory warranty, of course. We now have two intermittent but persistent issues.

"Passenger Air Bag Off" light keeps illuminating even with an adult sitting in the seat properly wearing the seat belt. No, the seat is not reclined in any weird position. 3-4 visits to the dealer, got BS responses ranging from "cannot duplicate" to "recalibrated seat sensor". No fix.

Dashboard shows "Fuel Cap Loose" message even though the cap is tight. Then the Check Engine light comes on a day later, requiring a trip to the dealer, who does nothing more than resetting the computer to clear the message. Happened twice within two weeks. Of course, they also told us to "tighten the cap more". C'mon, I've had the car for 4 years, I know how to fill up the tank and put the cap back on! If I was such an idiot, why hadn't this problem ocurred before?

It's the car my wife uses to transport our son. I no longer have the peace of mind that they are in a safe vehicle (how safe is a car if it has hidden problems and can potentially break down any time?). Too bad, we've enjoyed this car so far and was planning to keep it a few more years. I almost bought another Volvo when I replaced my car earlier this year. But I'm glad I had the sense of going with something else more reliable.

jim314

We had a few episodes of "Passenger Air Bag Off" in my wife's 2007 XC90 3.2 FWD base model, but it has been 6 to 8 months since the last one. The seat belts provide 99% of the crash protection in a frontal crash. The side curtain airbags surely must have a separate activation mechanism. Probably also the pass side torso bag.

Concerning the loose gas cap message. Maybe the "U-ring" seal in the gas cap is bad--dried up enough to fail to seal completely, or has deposits between the seal and the sealing surface in the cap.

You might possibly just replace the rim seal in the cap, if that is available as a separate part. If you can't get the seal or you want to mess around a little, you might try removing the seal (carefully so as not to damage it), then wipe and coat it with a light coating of silicone grease or other suitable grease.

Don't load the outward facing channel with grease, just coat the 3 sealing surfaces. While the seal is out, clean deposits on the sealing surface on the cap.

Or you could try coating the seal in place.

But you might have to get a new cap. I got a new cap when a relative's Jeep began to give that sort of message. He was only going to be in town briefly, the cost wasn't too high, and I didn't realize when I got the cap that the one seal was probably the weak point.

See http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080816033932AA0zc71

qbrozen

I agree with jim. Just replace the gas cap. I'm surprised it happened in just 4 years, but depends on climate and conditions, I guess. I had to replace the one in my S70 after about 6 years. Cured the light problem.

Dunno what to tell you about the airbag light.

Now, the title of your post says AWD issues. Yet nothing in your post about it. ??

how safe is a car if it has hidden problems and can potentially break down any time?

Ya lost me here. An airbag or fuel light is not going to make the car "break down."

jccai1

Sorry about the confusing title. I didn't mean AWD issues. I just wanted to fully describe the trim level of our car in the title.

If the check engine light is purely because of a bad gas cap, sure, it's not big deal. And I'll gladly pay $30 to replace it (I found some site selling the OEM cap at $23). And I don't understand why the dealer can't just replace a small part like this under warranty.

I'm just more concerned that this may be caused by a hidden, yet more serious issue, like with a bad fuel sensor in the tank or something. I'm not mechanically inclined to know what to do should the car break down, and I certainly don't want my wife and kid to be caught in that situation.

Like I said, it's been a very enjoyable vehicle until now.

jim314

The local dealer told me that the seal is not available as a separate part. The entire cap is $31 and change plus tax. But the dealer was out of stock so maybe the caps go bad regularly.

It looks to me like the seal would come out easily and you could use some silicone grease in a small foil pak, usually sold to coat the insides of spark plug wire boots. Buy or beg some. It it doesn't work, you haven't lost much.

But from its design it looks like the seal could crush over time. Of course, it might be another part of the cap that is bad. It looks like it has a check valve in the center which could go bad.

Or it might not be the cap at all. Keep an open mind, but don't start thinking it's something major until you've exhausted the simple and cheap things.

Maybe a seal is available on line from one of the aftermarket Volvo places.

Or a Stant brand replacement cap for $13. Might be made in China though. Try some of the local autoparts stores.

Part Number: ST10834MFR#: 10834"STANT FUEL CAP, PRESSURE VACUUM TYPE -- A High Quality, Direct Fit OE Replacement Fuel Cap, Protects Vehicle's Occupants From Gasoline Vapors, Provides Fuel Economy And Reduces Fuel Emissions"
This Product Fits the Following Vehicles:
2004-2007 Volvo XC90
2005: 5Cyl 2.5L "Gas, FI, Turbo, B5254T2" 2.5T 2005: 6Cyl 2.9L "Gas, FI, Turbo, VIN

qbrozen

its not even worth messing around with for $25, IMHO. Just buy the new one.
and I wouldn't jump to conclusions about hidden problems. Most times the simplest answer is the correct one.

Thanks for clearing up the "AWD" thing, jccai. Now it make sense.

they have to figure out the airbag light. Just be persistent. Maybe the next time it comes on, if possible, drive straight to a dealer and don't shut the car off until someone comes and looks at it. I dunno. Intermittent problems are the toughest.

qbrozen

Ahhhh.
We may have something to work with on your check engine light problem.

I just received a notice in the mail from Volvo.

"Volvo Car Corporation has determined that a certain function controlled by the engine management system software may cause the Check Engine light to illuminate falsely....
Your vehicle performs a test to determine if fuel tank vapors are escaping into the atmosphere. Under certain conditions, the test may falsely set the Check Engine light and store one of the following codes: ECM-400C, ECM-434C, ECM-4308, or ECM-P044200....
If your vehicle exhibits this condition during the extended warranty period, Volvo will perform a software upgrade on your vehicle at no charge to you."

The extended warranty they refer to is that they are extending the warranty of the engine management system software to 10yrs/120k miles.

jim314

We got letters on the Check Engine light for both my 2004 V70 2.4L non-turbo and my wife's 2007 XC90 3.2. But so far we have not had this problem on either. vehicle.

qbrozen

Yeah, neither have we.

suja1

Hi there, thanks so much for the info on what you did to get some recompense!! I just found out that my 2005 XC90 with 67K miles on it has to have the transmission replaced! I went in to find Anne Belec's contact info (unsuccessfully) only to find that they have replaced the CEO with someone named Sparks. Would you mind telling me how you even got the contact info? I can't find it anywhere and I am really going to try to get someone to listen. I can't believe it. $4600!!!! What the hell??!!

qbrozen

Welcome to Edmunds, suja1.
Unfortunately, the person you are replying to hasn't logged in since May, so I wouldn't hold my breath for a reply. You may have better luck posting for info on the Volvo XC90 Transmission board.

Good luck with your vehicle.

visa2014

I just purchased a 05 xc90 v8 It came with the valet key, tv dvd in the headrests and nav system.... But I need the dvd remote in order 2 use it so if anybody knows where i can find one for a good price the cheapest i have found is $100.00... I also need the nav cd or dvd .. I need help finding that also with the remote for the nav...And if i can get any tips on how 2 maintain this vehicle.. And reviews from current owners
Thanks
Any links for these items Please post them.