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Comments
I find the Turanza EL42 to be poor in the snow as do generally 449 reviewers on Tirerack.com with "snow" rating of 3.6/10. To be honest, Tirerack considers 3.6 to be "fair." Maybe I'm being harsh having driven in New England for almost (oh my goodness, how did I get so old!!!) 30 years and not recalling having tires slip and spin so much. Now it also could be sensitively tunded TCS on the TL, it just doesn't allow any slip. I've yet to be stuck and don't fear for my life. I just am much more aware of the need for ever more cautions snow-driving with these tires.
I post this view simply to make potential snow-country TL owners aware. IMHO, if you buy a TL with the EL42 tires, just be very aware in the snow. I, too, am very happy with my '05 TL. But when the EL42s time has come, I will not be renwing my subscription...
Anybody else care to opine on this subject? And, yes, I've used the word, "opine" before O'Reilly...!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
My 05 TL probably started the whining sound at approx. 15,000. My local dealer tells me it is normal. In a couple of weeks I am going to get a second opinion from another Acura dealer. I will post results here.
I had the temperature display flat lining problem on my 05 TL (no nav), but not a dead battery problem. Maybe I did not have the dead battery problem because I drive my TL everyday and several miles at that. I took my TL to my dealer and after calling Acura hot line they ordered and replaced my Module Assy Display. The Module Assy Display is the whole center stack including radio display readout. It has been three month since the display was replaced and no problem since. Part number on invoice is ACC 39051-SEP-A03ZA.
You're absolutely right, the system was howling at me driving around in the -7 weather here a couple of days ago ... which is when I decided to post and find out what others experience with the tpms. When cold the gauges said I was 1 psi below optimum, tpms was saying 5 psi below optimum. Needless to say, I did add and correct pressures to gauge levels.
There is a blurb in the owners manual saying
"It is possible that the pressures shown in the multi-information display and the pressures you manually measure are slightly different.
If the difference is significant and you cannot make the low pressure indicator go out after inflating the tires to the specified values, have your dealer check the system as soon as possible"
Slightly in my mind is 1 psi, not 4-5.
I returned to the dealership last Friday to have my brakes looked at...they were sqealing like crazy and to have the "harmonic vibration fix" completeted.
The dealership is saying that the front brakes are glazed, but that otherwise the brakes, rotors etc are all in good shape. They stated that the only way to get rid of the noise is to replace the pads and rotors and to do so at N/C would require authorization from corporate....great
I called corporate on Friday spoke to a rep and specifically told them that I do not want to work with the normal rep that deals with this dealership, because of my bad experience previously with her.
I have not heard from anyone and am returning Monday to have the vibration fixed with some part that is coming in.
I am guessing I won't hear from anyone as last time when I asked for a supervisor she said there wasn't one and that her decision represented that of "American Honda and Acura".
Any advice would be appreciated.
PS the dealer stated I could take the car to 100mph and panic stop a few times to try to help matters. When I spend close to 38K on a car I should have to even think of this as a solution.
Thanks everyone in advance
Thank~
I'll post tommorrow with the details of the "fix"
toothdude
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Maybe I'll begin to lay the groundwork at home that I might need to add a "winter" car (=another toy!).
Otherwise, I love the TL.
I think I got lucky with my local Acura dealer being aware of the temp flatline problem and replacing the module. The same dealer says the whine sound coming from my transmission (I think trans) is normal. :mad:
That's because they're trained to say the "n" word.
I do not have the cracking sound. It was so quiet some time I forgot I started the engine already. It is smooth and quiet with excellent 5.1 surround sound.
I am thinking to get snow tires.
I am sorry for some of you have the cracking sound.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I went to the dealer to buy an alternative nob. Doesn't exist. They have one for the automatic, for the TSX, etc., but none for a stick TL. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions, other than wrap it with tape, which I am about to do?
Thanks
don't take this as a smart a$% answer, but how about asking the dealer to replace the existing nob with another factory 6spd nob vs. buying an alternate nob?
assuming of course all the 6spd manual nobs do not have this issue... :confuse:
I have had a similiar problem with my 2000 TL with 130K miles. It stutters at about 24 MPH at a steady speed .. no decel or accelerating. Have had the tranny serviced and checked by tranny shop people. None so far seem to know for sure ... only some maybe's.
I am planning to try a Acrua dealer but would like to have some insight, like you, prior to letting them take off with a ghost chase.
It seems like someone would have had the same problem and have come up with a solution.
I did see a similiar problem description elsewhere... but no indicated solutions.
Good luck....
davedanna
On my first try it failed. I had to hold the window glass with both of my hands otherwise it would have taken my fingers. Subsequent tries worked but not consistent on my every try. All it takes is not to work once when you need it and get seriously hurt.
Let me know if anyone tried and your results.
Thanks!
Simple!!
My '02 Max. buttons are lit all the time at night!! Oh well !! (I know, deep subject )
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
" sushi96720 ". Maybe he knows the " one armed man ".
I know.....be nice !
I know what you are going to say before you even say it.
" That's different ". No it isn't. IMHO of course.
I believe the anti-pinch only works if you stick your head out the window and then try to put the window up. I think somebody on this board should try it and report back to us. I opt out. :P
The steering wheel buttons are for the driver, not the passengers.
Disabling the passenger windows can be for safety/security reasons. Or to avoid annoyance, "Stop playing with your window!"
Not that it matters. I was just giving my theory on why the window lights extinguish when they are de-activated. I could be wrong, but it does make sense.
YMMV?
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
No, I don't have big fingers. No, I'm not wearing gloves when I press the lock button. Yes, I can hear just fine. The car is only about eight months old so I can't believe it's a lack of fob battery power because everything else on it works just fine.
Any thoughts? Can you tell I'm bored tonight?!?
Thanks, Rob
When you press the lock button, do the parking lights flash. If they do, that means the fob and battery are fine, and there may be something wrong with the "beep" mechanism. But if even the lights don't flash, then you may have a faulty fob, or batteries.
Thanks!
gglaze