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Comments
I dress in my usual sloppy way - tee shirt, shorts, sandals, and maybe a fleece if it is a little chilly - so I sure don't impress them with my appearance.
I give them my SSN and tell them it's OK to run a credit check.
I'm 60 years old now, but I have been buying cars this way since 1972, so they accepted my checks even when I was a young stud.
I guess the dealers are pretty good at reading people and they could tell that I am not a flake.
If they didn't accept my personal check, I would go somewhere else. There are plenty of dealers in Northern VA.
I verbally agreed to a price the night before and went home to sleep on it. The next day, I decided to buy the car and transferred funds into my checking account.
I went back to the dealer that night, but explained that it would take several days for the funds to show up in my checking account. I expected to fill out all the paperwork that night and take delivery of the car when the check cleared.
Instead, the dealer said "That's OK. You can just take the car now and we'll hold your check until next week." So they let me drive away in a brand new car with only a $2000 deposit and a bad $18,000 personal check with insufficient funds.
Even more unbelievable is that they never ran my credit, and I'm only a 29 yr old "kid".
The guy that allowed it .. is now a paperboy in East LA .........
Terry. :shades:
Actually, it was the General Manager of that Honda dealership, and I believe he was the GM over the entire dealership group (4 dealerships).
In the meantime, I think I saw this guy at Publics last week as a bag boy ..l.o.l....
Terry.
If it is a draft we will hold it till it clears.
I initially wanted to put the entire car purchase on my credit card, for the cash back rewards points, but they would only let me do $2000.
I bought the car on a Thursday night, so they got $2K immediately from my credit card, and waited until the following Wednesday to deposit my $18,000 check.
I had no connection whatsoever at the dealership. However, I bought on the last day of the month, so I think they were desperate to close the deal.
I called my CU Friday night, got approved, called the dealer to make sure the car on the Mazda website still existed at the dealership and set up an appointment.
On Saturday I went to the dealership and told them that I was getting the loan check for 17,5 on Monday and that I needed to transfer some funds around to cover the rest. I was willing to come back mid-week when I actually had money, but they let me leave after I wrote two checks that they promised not to deposit until I came back. One for the down payment, and one for 17,5.
I came back as promised on Wednesday, gave them the loan check, they gave me the check for 17,5 which I ripped into little tiny pieces.
I was surprised they gave me a car for which they had no evidence except my word that I could pay for it.
Being in the military, I wonder if they realized they had a far better chance of getting money out of me than someone else.
Dec 2005 $28,000 Honda Dealer New
Dec 2001 $24,000 Honda Dealer New
Aug 1997 $23,500 Cadillac Dealer Used
Nov 1997 $9,500 Dodge Dealer Used
Jun 1991 $17,000 Ford Dealer New
And everything else before this bought at a dealer.
I give them a personal check, I drive the car away. Since about mid-80's, all I've gotten was the car and a bill of sale. Before that, I got the MSO on the new cars I bought.
I'll be paying in full cash. I know about Carfax. I know about getting an inspection before purchase and all that. I've read Buying a Car for Dummies too many times.
My question is, based on what I've seen around my price range, do you think it would be better (more reliable) for me to get an older mid-90's Corolla/Civic with 90,000 miles on it, or should I get a later 2002ish Hyundai Accent with only around 50,00-60,000 miles on it?
I understand that Civics and Corollas are known for their long-term reliability. But I've also heard that later model Hyundais are getting much more reliable also.
I also realize that Civic/Corolla will hold their value much better, which is good since I'll probably resale it in a year or two. But my main priority right now is getting another reliable car to get from point A to point B.
Thanks!!
Another popular recommendation around here is the Chevy Prism. Mechanically identicle to the Corolla for less money.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Are late-90 models pretty reliable? I've heard Mazda 3's and Miatas are above average reliability.
The 626 exception noted above is due to a Ford-sourced auto tranny in that particular configuration that has a tendency to eat itself. Just something to keep in mind if you decide to step up to a mid-sizer.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
While some makes tend to be better than others, as you move down the price ladder, individual condition should play a greater role in your choices, as even a very reliable model that is abused is going to have more problems. For example, while a Toyota or Honda may generally be more reliable than would be a Mazda or Nissan, I would prefer to buy a well-maintained Mazda or Nissan over a somewhat abused Toyota or Honda, and put the savings toward preventative maintenance.
So in that price range, I'd keep an open mind and consider a variety of brands -- reject the obvious lemons, but broaden your search to include at least a few similar types of cars, and then try to be as choosy as possible in finding a car that appears to have been maintained.
As resale and reliabilty both play a role in your decision, I'd tend to stick with the Japanese brands, and avoid VW's, the domestics and the Koreans. Whether a 5 year old Hyundai deserves to be labeled as reliable on par with the better Japanese makes is debatable, and I'd be wary of a used Korean car not of recent manufacture. While Hyundai has been making extremely impressive quality strides as of late, that might not benefit those cars in the model years that you are considering.
Good luck in your search.
Also, at your price point I can't rule out domestics. Is a Taurus with 50,000 miles better than a Civic with 100? It's hard to tell, but if something like that was well maintained, it would at least worth looking at.
1. Under 12500 OTD
2. Four Doors
3. Traction Control and ABS
4. Decent crash test ratings from BOTH IIHS and NSHTA
5. RELIABLE
I do want the car to have some room so I have ruled out compacts, and would like to stay in the mid to full sized car range. Minivans are acceptable but must have the option of captians chairs in second row and rear heat/ac.
I don't care about style, just need something that will last for the next 8 years or so
So any thoughts??
A used Sonata might not be a bad choice. It is mid sized and has traction control and ABS.
They have absolutely no soul but for a good cheap first car in your price range they should be great.
Just in my local area there are tons of 2005 and 2006 GLS Sonatas 17,500 and under. I am sure you could get one for under your target price.
Some domestics to consider would probably be Impalas of the 6 cylinder variety. They are actually fairly good. I doubt anything Japanesse will be in your price range unless it was older without a warranty. Jettas are nice but then you got a bit of a crap shoot with relability.
The 5 year, 60,000 mile warranty bumper to bumper does transfer with the car however, so you still get a longer warranty than if you bought that second hand ex-fleet Taurus I suggested.
I know you want something with as much room as possible and want to stay in the mid to full-size car range, so next in line, I'd be looking at a used relatively low mileage Accord or Camry that checked out well with CarFax and had been thoroughly inspected by a trusted mechanic (be willing to pay some $$$ for a good looksee).
On a used vehicle, I would tend to be a bit flexible on ABS, depending where I lived. ABS is a great technology but not a substitute for smart driving. I probably wouldn't purchase a new vehicle without it though.
You want it to last 8yrs. Look at Edmunds true cost to own. I would also look in a Consumer Reports and see what has a number of good years with lots of red ratings for the various sub-systems. Unscientific? Yes. I would also tend to avoid new model introduction vehicles no matter the make - and personally, I would avoid fleet rentals.
But that is me.
Your economic situation plays an important factor and also your knowlege of vehicles and access to knowlege if you don't have it.
Good luck:
I've seen low mile '04s in the $12k range, so I'm positive you could get one for your OTD target.
I haven't researched the crash tests, but its reliable, has 4 doors, and is certainly quite large inside.
I'm not sure about the traction control, either, though. But, really, I've never found the need for traction control in a FWD vehicle, and I drive in all kinds of nasty weather.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
All the Altimas come with 4 wheel disc w 11.5 inch rotors so it stops quite well without ABS. The one notable safety flaw of a base model is that it does poorly in the side impact test w/o bags.
It's definately a good car and a good value, but unless you were flexible on the safety equipment or mileage, I think that 12.5 would be tough to do for a 2.5 SL.
That said, how about an '02 (last generation) Honda Accord EX (not V6)? These have ABS, get great gas mileage, are fairly roomy, should last a while, and are usually at or under $12k. Of course, they're five years old at this point, so will be 13 by the time you want to sell.
if you're a person in the software industry, "just software" should bring a smile.
anyway, i agree the '02 would be a good vehicle. saw a ford taurus with leather and alloys last night for 13.8 which was an '05.
now which vehicle would you rather put the money on?
-juice
Actually I am, lol. My family has two cars one with Traction control and the other without. The one with handles much much better in the snow and ice. ABS I guess I really don't care about, its really the traction control I want. It doesn't snow enough were I am at to warrant 4 wheel drive or even AWD.
My current car is 13 years old with 152,000 miles on it. It pooped out (with some TLC could run again, but really I am sick of it). I have to stay at the 12k mark OTD.
I saw some 01 Buick LaSabre's (10k) and some Buick Century's (6-11k)with lower miles (old people mobiles).. are these reliable cars or junk buckets (both have ABS and Traction control, and the LaSabre had side air bags).
My 1989 Pontiac Bonneville, very similar to a LaSabre from the same era but with a bit sportier suspension, with the 3800 series 1 had over 140,000 miles on it when I sold it to the friend of a co-worker.
That guy is still driving it and that was over a year ago.
This is true. I basically need a car that will last a long time, is reliable and will be cheap to work on (and lower cost upfront because I am strapped for cash big time).
That reminds me of my friends Kia she bought. It wouldn't start and it took 4 weeks to get a part in (they refused a loaner car). Then the motor in the mirror went out and it took 3 MONTHS to get the stupid thing in.
My other friend has Toyotas that are in the shop all the time and when she gets handed her bill its HUGE. I just about fell over when I went with her.
If you do not defer maintenance, the engines and transmissions last nearly forever. In general, the repairs are fairly inexpensive and the parts are readily available at reasonable prices.
I know you are able to spend more for your new car. So were we. However, just because you can spend more doesn't mean you have to.
I just test drove a Honda Fit and the manual tranmission is wonderful! But that's way less and maybe way smaller than you want.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
-the Accord 4 cyl (I have a 2005 EXL 5 speed also). Nice car, pretty loaded, economical, and will save on the purchase price.
- If you want something faster, a V6 6 speed Accord.
-Acura TSX or TL both come in a manual
- Subaru Legacy is nice (although smaller), and you can get a GT Turbo with a stick.
- At the top end of your range is a 3 series 6 speed, but good luck finding one at a dealer!
- Nissam Altima (the hot road version).
- VW Jetta or Audi A3 2.0T
You will get lots of advice here, but you do need to supply as much detail as possible as to what you need/want in a car, and how you will use it.
At least you are going for a stick. We need more devotees to manual trannys! It also makes your decision making easier, since you eliminate many choices up front (no manual available), although it doesn't make it any easier to find one to buy.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Altima SE-R. Does the Maxima still offer a stick?
Camry doesn't come in stick with the V6, I think.
Legacy GT, or Outback XT if you want a wagon. Even the Forester XT if a small crossover fits the bill. WRX, too. Subaru thankfully makes them available with almost every model.
Give us more criteria, size? Sedan or wagon? FWD, RWD, or AWD?
-juice
Also you could look at a Honda Accord EX-V6 6M (6 Speed Manual) or a Infiniti G35 with a 6 speed.
Basically here's the list of what I can think of:
Acura TSX
BMW 325i
Honda Accord EX-V6
Infiniti G35
Subaru Legacy GT
-Jason
Besides, my son learns to drive next year, and that could be a fun car to learn on! Then I would give it (and it's beat up clutch) back shortly after he turns 17!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I really liked the 325/330, but since I keep my cars until they die and don't like high maintenance costs, I bought the TSX.