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Buying Tips - How Do I Get the Best Deal?

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Comments

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Yeah, showing my age, I know...

    So my 1989 Le Sabre T-type qualifies?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    from 1999 to 2005. Think they change suppliers after 2005.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    OK, I've never owned a 1999 or newer GM product.

    Sounds like they cheapened things up.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I think I've owned too many of them since 1997. Then again Lincoln wasn't much better.

    Motor failure and TSB

    one more
  • johnkarnjohnkarn Member Posts: 11
    If there is a place where I can post what I am looking for, and where I am looking for it, that dealers would look at and respond to? I am trying some reverse marketing and put out there what I am looking for so I can start negotiating an out the door price. I simply believe that dealers should compete for my business and I do not have the time to search to find what I am looking for, do my research on what I found, and then contact the dealer to be stonewalled with a simple lack of response. Unlike my experience when I bought my last motorcycle, I knew the players and contacted each one directly by email before ever setting foot in the place; but I had them competing against one another and got a great deal:

    I got the bike, the extended warranty, the priority maintenance agreement, the taxes and tags paid, the cover, a matching set of helmets with headsets included and still paid over 1000 less than factory invoice on a bike that only had 5 miles on it. I sold it a couple of years later for more than I paid for it with 40,000.

    I am simply trying to get similar results with a car, but I am also trying to save time.

    It seems to me that the customer service standards at a car dealer are different from what you would find at a motorcycle dealer; and it's sad.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    buy another bike?
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Member Posts: 2,039
    Ahahahahah. Good luck selling a car for more than you paid for it. You need to get a dealer license to do something like that.

    -Moo
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,592
    And, I don't think they had power windows at the turn of the century.

    Remember that the turn of the century was like 7-8 years ago.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • greanpea68greanpea68 Member Posts: 1,996
    Try the classifieds in your local paper... Salesman read the paper everyday.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Yeah, I know..I wasn't thinking.
  • anlinaanlina Member Posts: 52
    Thanks jmonroe...and everyone else who responded.

    I hadn't thought about the lack of PW lowering resale value.

    I've haggled some more prices, and these are my current options:

    08 Corolla S (with 6-CD changer, rear spoiler, cruise control and side air bags) for $16500 out-the-door.

    08 Honda Civic LX sedan for $18K out-the-door

    08 Corolla CE (loss leader) priced at $12388 + tax and fees.

    Any thoughts? :)
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Haggle...haggled...why did you stop? Did they meet the price you wanted or wouldn't budge another nickel? When you left the dealership did they walk you out or just let you walk?

    Just curious.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Why do you show two cars OTD prices, and one before tax, tag, and doc.?
  • anlinaanlina Member Posts: 52
    obyone,

    I've done it all by phone and/or internet.

    The 16500 on the Corolla S is a good price, and I'm tired of fighting. :D

    I found a good price on an 07 Civic. I emailed it to another dealer, who said he'd match it on an 08. I sent that back to the first dealer, who took $200 off their price. The second dealer said he'd match -- or maybe even beat that price. Now I'm waiting to see if the dealer with the 07 will go even lower.

    The only times I haven't gotten them to budge has been in person.
  • anlinaanlina Member Posts: 52
    kiawah,

    Sorry...and I spoke too soon. I'd been told the CE would be on sale for $12388 this weekend -- now they say it's $12988.
    Their out-the-door price is $14244. It's in Southern CA.
  • verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,288
    I found a good price on an 07 Civic. I emailed it to another dealer, who said he'd match it on an 08. I sent that back to the first dealer, who took $200 off their price. The second dealer said he'd match -- or maybe even beat that price. Now I'm waiting to see if the dealer with the 07 will go even lower.

    This is either a great deal on an 08 or you're getting ripped off on the 07. A $200 difference between an 07 and and 08? As long as you're comparing apples to apples, the 08 is a no brainer.

    Keep in mind the 07 is a full model year older. Think depreciation.
  • verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,288
    What's accoutning for the difference between their sale price of $12988 and their OTD price of $14244. That's a pretty big spread.
  • anlinaanlina Member Posts: 52
    verdugo,

    $12988 price
    $1075.22 tax
    $136 fees and license
    $45 doc. fee

    I just realized the dealer added in the $45 doc. fee twice.
    Other than that, it checks out.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You don't say what options are on the CE, so I'm assuming nothing. The Toyota website shows antilock brakes, side and curtain airbags, cruise, power windows and door locks as options or upgrades.

    Personally I wouldn't buy a car without any of those, but certainly at a minimum not without antilock brakes and the airbags.

    Only you know your financial situation, so you'll just have to figure out what features are 'must have', which features are 'okay to have and you'd pay for them if on the vehicle', and which features you don't need or can't afford.

    Make yourself a little spreadsheet, and that will help you figure out how the different cars stack up against what you want, and can afford.
  • verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,288
    ahh. The tax accounts for the bulk of it. Cool.
  • anlinaanlina Member Posts: 52
    Thanks, kiawah. You're right, the CE has nothing like that.
    That's why it's so cheap. :D

    Thanks for the suggestions.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    In my not so humble opinion, you ae making this very difficult and time consuming over a few dollars.

    My advise would be to not skimp over a few dollars and buy the car that you like the best. Otherwise you may be unhappy with your choice for a long time.

    If something is "cheap" there is always a reason!
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    I think it will help you if you can answer a couple of quesions:

    1) Are you comfortable spending $18000 or do you only want to spend $14000?

    2) Do you want a Corolla or do you want a Civic?

    Once you have the answers to those two quesions you can stop comparing apples to oranges and go out and buy the 2008 car of your choice. You won't get a good enough deal on a 2007 Corolla or Civic to make it worth accepting a 1 model year old car in my opinion.

    [Edit] isellhondas was replying as I was still typing. His point about not skimping is a good one. Within reason buy what you want and remember, you can never have too much safety.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,120
    o my 1989 Le Sabre T-type qualifies?

    Now THAT'S a classic. I'm jealous!
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    A "classic" I don't think so.

    It sure attracts a lot of attention however.

    I don't know why I hang on to it. Drove it 500 miles last year. IF you want it, come get it! Cheap!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    T-type?
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    I think its silver.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Awesome!! Must have been a chore to keep that GM silver from fading over those 18 years.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    And the hood needs to be repainted, the rest looks good.

    It still runs and drives like it did when it was new, leather inside is still nice. A/C is ice cold etc.
  • micosilvermicosilver Member Posts: 212
    It seems to me that the customer service standards at a car dealer are different from what you would find at a motorcycle dealer; and it's sad.

    What you trying to get is not customer service, you want dealers to fight over a no-profit or a loser deal.
    Just FYI, as an Internet Sale Manager, I ignore mass emails and faxes - ones that say" I sending this to 20 dealership, lowest price wins my business"...

    You want lower price - you will have to earn it.
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Agreed, and folks that really confuse me are the ones that get mad because you don't reply. The consumer has sent 20 offers to bid and we choose not to bid, whats the big deal?
  • anlinaanlina Member Posts: 52
    isellhondas, thanks. The problem is I can't decide which one I like best -- they each have pro's and con's. :(
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,120
    Craig, if you weren't so far away, I might consider it. That T-Type may not be a classic, but it's a car that I lusted for when I was younger. Still a rarity around my 'burg.

    I remember guys melting rubber with those.

    I'm not much into redoing old iron, though. Don't know if you remember, I flirted with a '69 VW bug 'vert. It was rough, but ran. I ended up buying it for $700. Put a new top on it for $500. Decided I didn't have time to do a restore. Sold it 4 weeks later for $2,700.

    Not bad!
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • anlinaanlina Member Posts: 52
    grandtotal,

    Thanks for trying to help. The real answer is that I want a Corolla with all the options the Civic comes with! The 09 Corollas will probably be perfect for me since they'll have all the Civic's options standard -- but I don't want to wait. :(
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Consumer Report you may just want to buy that Civic.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    You may not want to wait, but can you? You may have to wait only 3 months for an 09 Corolla. Of course you'll probably not get much of a discount at that time.
  • anlinaanlina Member Posts: 52
    grandtotal,

    Waiting is probably the smartest thing to do. But I'm determined to make a decision on this sooner rather than later. :)
  • ucdrumsucdrums Member Posts: 4
    I am about to purchase a mazda 3 but the dealer i am working with claims that dealers don't use kbb for trade in value but that they use galves.com, never heard of galves and they were a good %50 lower in trade in value. ANy body know how i can get him to use kbb or get around this galves value which seems only to benefit the dealer not me. I am very concerned...
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    If you want more for your trade you should really consider selling it yourself. There are many different "books" to determine the value of what you're trading in. However the dealer needs to figure what they need to do to the vehicle to prep it for selling whether it be tires or just a detail not to mention that they need to pay a salesman to sell it while it takes up space on their lot.

    What it comes down to is if you want more you should sell it on your own. For me the hassles just isn't worth it and if you've ever sold one on your own you would know exactly what I mean.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take it to CarMax. They'll give you a price buying it outright. I've found them very reasonable, except in one case my car was so old and undesireable to them that they were just sending it to auction.
  • abbygayleabbygayle Member Posts: 3
    Need advice on making an offer:

    Local dealer has: 02 Town & Country LXi with 38000 miles.
    Very clean and clean carfax. One owner coporate lease.
    A few scratches and passenger power slide door doesn't shut when hit with remote. It seems to be fine when you hit the button in car.
    Front Wheel Drive
    3.8L V6 OHV 12V FI Engine

    Edmunds TMV: $11,235
    Dealer asking: $13,900

    He also gave me what appears to be a somewhat lowball trade-in offer of $3000 for 99 Mountaineer that I am willing to accept. I have never negotiated a car deal before, so I'm unsure of myself.

    My question would be is it fair/acceptable to offer $11,300?
    This is quite a bit lower than his list price, but I am also willing to do the trade in.

    Also, should I say $11,300 Tax & Title out the door? I really don't know those costs. Or just suck it up and pay Tax and title on top of that? Or is my offer above too low anyway? Thanks!
    Thanks!
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Hell, offer the $8300 and your trade OTD as is, the worst thing they can do is say no. If they stick close to there asking price then tell them you want the door and the scratches fixed along with a full tank of gas.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well you need to understand the tax and title fees. Some states and counties can be like 7%, which may not be an insignificant amount of money to have to have.

    Ask the dealer what percentage the taxes are, and how much the title/plates fees will be. The taxes are usually calculated on the difference between the cost of the new, minus the cost of the old...but be sure to understand that as well because states differ.

    Be aware that most dealerships also have an administrative or documentation fee, ranging from $50 bucks to $600 bucks. Sometimes this is limited by state law, other times dealers can do whatever they want.
  • micosilvermicosilver Member Posts: 212
    Your car is worth what it can bring at a local auction, books don't matter. If you are determined to trade it in - you will have to do the leg work - go to 3 Mazda dealers, explain to them what you are doing, shop for the same car and compare the OTD difference you have to pay after the trade.
  • johnkarnjohnkarn Member Posts: 11
    Here was the case with the bike I sold:

    it was a 2000 Honda Valkyrie Interstate (2000 was the last model year for this particular model, there were 3 Valkyries; the base had no windshield or saddle bags, the tourer had side saddlebags and a clear windshield; and the interstate had a full fairing, intercom, saddlebags, trunk, and AM/FM radio with connections for a CB and another audio source (cd player, IPOD, Satellite receiver) The interstate was a severely limited production (somewhere around 20% of all Valkyries produced were produced as interstates).

    The buyer was LOOKING for an interstate in my color pattern to convert to a trike...... I wasn't looking to sell at the time, but he made an offer I couldn't ignore... I really loved that bike....
  • johnkarnjohnkarn Member Posts: 11
    When I did this exact thing for the bike, EVERYONE I asked for bids responded (some more than once and within hours).

    Are car salespeople somehow less eager to SELL than motorcycle salespeople?

    I am a sales manager (I sell PC's to corporate and government institutions) and if I found a member of MY team ignoring an opportunity, they'd be GONE!
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Hell you sell the Goverment, they pay sticker+ for everything. :D:D

    Corporate/Goverment sales are a whole different world compared to the car business.

    The man hours to reply to all of the I am emailng 20 dealers and best price wins are not worth the return. We are not big fans of begging someone to come pay triple net for a car and then have to load up on there trade. It is lose, lose for us.

    I can see A Motorcycle shop doing it , the Honda store down the street still has new 2005 models in boxes, I would guess they need to embrace every opportunity they can get.
  • mb789mb789 Member Posts: 89
    I live in a state where when you trade your car in you pay tax on the difference between the new car and the trade amount.

    Can someone clarify what "Total Trade" means in negotiations? Does this mean they have inflated your trade value by not giving you the sales tax discount you are entitled to and using it to pump up your trade value so it looks like they are giving you more?? I had my car appraised today and the figure the salesman showed me was written $XX,XXX Total Trade.

    But, I knew what they were selling their car for, and based on the selling price and my supposed trade value, they quoted me a payment that I know is about $40 higher per month than it should be. I told them I was pre-approved by my credit union (one they work with, too) and what rate I was approved at.

    Then, I asked what about the sales tax difference, this should make the payment lower. But they salesman stumbled and made something up, so apparently they pumped the trade value up? Is this common, or is this unethical?

    I said NO THANKS and left.
  • pygnsowpygnsow Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advice--sounds easy enough--just wanted to know if there is anything else I should be digging deeper for.
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    Whatever "total trade" means is beside the point. The important thing is that the numbers were not right so you left. Focus on the "real" numbers, not per month figures.

    The dealership does not have any choice on the sales tax credit issue. They can't take it away from you. "Pumping up the trade value" (assuming the price of the new car is raised by the same amount) is irrelevant because you pay tax only the difference between the two numbers.
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