Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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So my 1989 Le Sabre T-type qualifies?
Sounds like they cheapened things up.
Motor failure and TSB
one more
I got the bike, the extended warranty, the priority maintenance agreement, the taxes and tags paid, the cover, a matching set of helmets with headsets included and still paid over 1000 less than factory invoice on a bike that only had 5 miles on it. I sold it a couple of years later for more than I paid for it with 40,000.
I am simply trying to get similar results with a car, but I am also trying to save time.
It seems to me that the customer service standards at a car dealer are different from what you would find at a motorcycle dealer; and it's sad.
-Moo
Remember that the turn of the century was like 7-8 years ago.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I hadn't thought about the lack of PW lowering resale value.
I've haggled some more prices, and these are my current options:
08 Corolla S (with 6-CD changer, rear spoiler, cruise control and side air bags) for $16500 out-the-door.
08 Honda Civic LX sedan for $18K out-the-door
08 Corolla CE (loss leader) priced at $12388 + tax and fees.
Any thoughts?
Just curious.
I've done it all by phone and/or internet.
The 16500 on the Corolla S is a good price, and I'm tired of fighting.
I found a good price on an 07 Civic. I emailed it to another dealer, who said he'd match it on an 08. I sent that back to the first dealer, who took $200 off their price. The second dealer said he'd match -- or maybe even beat that price. Now I'm waiting to see if the dealer with the 07 will go even lower.
The only times I haven't gotten them to budge has been in person.
Sorry...and I spoke too soon. I'd been told the CE would be on sale for $12388 this weekend -- now they say it's $12988.
Their out-the-door price is $14244. It's in Southern CA.
This is either a great deal on an 08 or you're getting ripped off on the 07. A $200 difference between an 07 and and 08? As long as you're comparing apples to apples, the 08 is a no brainer.
Keep in mind the 07 is a full model year older. Think depreciation.
$12988 price
$1075.22 tax
$136 fees and license
$45 doc. fee
I just realized the dealer added in the $45 doc. fee twice.
Other than that, it checks out.
Personally I wouldn't buy a car without any of those, but certainly at a minimum not without antilock brakes and the airbags.
Only you know your financial situation, so you'll just have to figure out what features are 'must have', which features are 'okay to have and you'd pay for them if on the vehicle', and which features you don't need or can't afford.
Make yourself a little spreadsheet, and that will help you figure out how the different cars stack up against what you want, and can afford.
That's why it's so cheap.
Thanks for the suggestions.
My advise would be to not skimp over a few dollars and buy the car that you like the best. Otherwise you may be unhappy with your choice for a long time.
If something is "cheap" there is always a reason!
1) Are you comfortable spending $18000 or do you only want to spend $14000?
2) Do you want a Corolla or do you want a Civic?
Once you have the answers to those two quesions you can stop comparing apples to oranges and go out and buy the 2008 car of your choice. You won't get a good enough deal on a 2007 Corolla or Civic to make it worth accepting a 1 model year old car in my opinion.
[Edit] isellhondas was replying as I was still typing. His point about not skimping is a good one. Within reason buy what you want and remember, you can never have too much safety.
Now THAT'S a classic. I'm jealous!
It sure attracts a lot of attention however.
I don't know why I hang on to it. Drove it 500 miles last year. IF you want it, come get it! Cheap!
It still runs and drives like it did when it was new, leather inside is still nice. A/C is ice cold etc.
What you trying to get is not customer service, you want dealers to fight over a no-profit or a loser deal.
Just FYI, as an Internet Sale Manager, I ignore mass emails and faxes - ones that say" I sending this to 20 dealership, lowest price wins my business"...
You want lower price - you will have to earn it.
I remember guys melting rubber with those.
I'm not much into redoing old iron, though. Don't know if you remember, I flirted with a '69 VW bug 'vert. It was rough, but ran. I ended up buying it for $700. Put a new top on it for $500. Decided I didn't have time to do a restore. Sold it 4 weeks later for $2,700.
Not bad!
Thanks for trying to help. The real answer is that I want a Corolla with all the options the Civic comes with! The 09 Corollas will probably be perfect for me since they'll have all the Civic's options standard -- but I don't want to wait.
Waiting is probably the smartest thing to do. But I'm determined to make a decision on this sooner rather than later.
What it comes down to is if you want more you should sell it on your own. For me the hassles just isn't worth it and if you've ever sold one on your own you would know exactly what I mean.
Local dealer has: 02 Town & Country LXi with 38000 miles.
Very clean and clean carfax. One owner coporate lease.
A few scratches and passenger power slide door doesn't shut when hit with remote. It seems to be fine when you hit the button in car.
Front Wheel Drive
3.8L V6 OHV 12V FI Engine
Edmunds TMV: $11,235
Dealer asking: $13,900
He also gave me what appears to be a somewhat lowball trade-in offer of $3000 for 99 Mountaineer that I am willing to accept. I have never negotiated a car deal before, so I'm unsure of myself.
My question would be is it fair/acceptable to offer $11,300?
This is quite a bit lower than his list price, but I am also willing to do the trade in.
Also, should I say $11,300 Tax & Title out the door? I really don't know those costs. Or just suck it up and pay Tax and title on top of that? Or is my offer above too low anyway? Thanks!
Thanks!
Ask the dealer what percentage the taxes are, and how much the title/plates fees will be. The taxes are usually calculated on the difference between the cost of the new, minus the cost of the old...but be sure to understand that as well because states differ.
Be aware that most dealerships also have an administrative or documentation fee, ranging from $50 bucks to $600 bucks. Sometimes this is limited by state law, other times dealers can do whatever they want.
it was a 2000 Honda Valkyrie Interstate (2000 was the last model year for this particular model, there were 3 Valkyries; the base had no windshield or saddle bags, the tourer had side saddlebags and a clear windshield; and the interstate had a full fairing, intercom, saddlebags, trunk, and AM/FM radio with connections for a CB and another audio source (cd player, IPOD, Satellite receiver) The interstate was a severely limited production (somewhere around 20% of all Valkyries produced were produced as interstates).
The buyer was LOOKING for an interstate in my color pattern to convert to a trike...... I wasn't looking to sell at the time, but he made an offer I couldn't ignore... I really loved that bike....
Are car salespeople somehow less eager to SELL than motorcycle salespeople?
I am a sales manager (I sell PC's to corporate and government institutions) and if I found a member of MY team ignoring an opportunity, they'd be GONE!
Corporate/Goverment sales are a whole different world compared to the car business.
The man hours to reply to all of the I am emailng 20 dealers and best price wins are not worth the return. We are not big fans of begging someone to come pay triple net for a car and then have to load up on there trade. It is lose, lose for us.
I can see A Motorcycle shop doing it , the Honda store down the street still has new 2005 models in boxes, I would guess they need to embrace every opportunity they can get.
Can someone clarify what "Total Trade" means in negotiations? Does this mean they have inflated your trade value by not giving you the sales tax discount you are entitled to and using it to pump up your trade value so it looks like they are giving you more?? I had my car appraised today and the figure the salesman showed me was written $XX,XXX Total Trade.
But, I knew what they were selling their car for, and based on the selling price and my supposed trade value, they quoted me a payment that I know is about $40 higher per month than it should be. I told them I was pre-approved by my credit union (one they work with, too) and what rate I was approved at.
Then, I asked what about the sales tax difference, this should make the payment lower. But they salesman stumbled and made something up, so apparently they pumped the trade value up? Is this common, or is this unethical?
I said NO THANKS and left.
The dealership does not have any choice on the sales tax credit issue. They can't take it away from you. "Pumping up the trade value" (assuming the price of the new car is raised by the same amount) is irrelevant because you pay tax only the difference between the two numbers.