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Dealer vs. independent shop?
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I like to go to emissions stations that sell NOTHING but emissions testing.
I tried turning the engine on for 10-20 minutes without driving it but when the engine is already hot, it dies.
Please help.
Thanks.
I always have the dealer perform all the maintenance and service on my vehicles. The reasons for this action are as follows: 1.) I always purchase an extended FACTORY warranty on all my vehicles. 2.) I do an extensive amount of traveling with my vehicles. 3.) I want all my service records in one place, should I need warranty service either at home, or "on the road". 4.) If I have a problem "on the road," the local Honda dealer at my location can access my service records, and deal with the repair under the terms of the extended FACTORY warranty. 5.) The dealer performing the repair, can contact my selling dealer if there are any questions as to maintenance.
When I didn't, I usually trusted the work to an indpendent mechanic. I've known several over the years that are excellent in every respect. It is definitely worth the effort to find one in case the need ever arises.
And I usually picked a mechanic who specialized in my particular vehicle, unless it was just for standard oil changes.
I avoid the Jiffy Lubes, etc. like the plague. Too many horror stories, and I have a major aversion to risk.
For warranty work, of course you have to go to the same make dealership.
But for cousin models, like Acura/Honda, Lexus/Toyota, Infiniti/Nissan, etc. I have found the lower priced models often have dealerships that charge less for service and will take care of the higher priced models, except for warranty work.
It is definitely worth checking out.
But for cousin models, like Acura/Honda, Lexus/Toyota, Infiniti/Nissan, etc. I have found the lower priced models often have dealerships that charge less for service and will take care of the higher priced models, except for warranty work.
It is definitely worth checking out..."
Big "ditto" on that from here.
Most the dealers I have to deal with replace parts far more than the independant shops I deal with.
While most the dealers replace parts, most the independants troubleshoot. I'll admit that this isn't meaning that for every dealer or independant, but my experience is that most the dealers I deal with replace parts and do little diagnostics.
On some things, the dealer may be the correct choice, but a large percentage of these can be handled at any independant, just as well.
An independant has to work on many different makes and models so his experience isn't that focused.
An independant has to work on many different makes and models so his experience isn't that focused
Not always true.... the Indy that I use focusses on a single marque. All of the guys worked at dealers previously, and all of their various certifications are prominently displayed. The big advantage is in the lower overhead, and that these guys genuinely like cars.
The only drawback with these guys is the fact that theri experience ended the day they left the dealer. Maybe the last madel they worked on was a 1998 or a 2003 and they aren't abrest of the changes and quirks of the newer models.
After 19 years in the tool business I have been in and seen every kind of shop you can imagine. The very best down to places that keep their tools in a cardboard box and use cinder blocks for jack stands.
I had ususally ended up being not real happy with most independents I tried, until I started using a place 3 blocks from where I work that specializes in Japanese imports for an old Sentra we had. Independents that limit themselves like that are very rare. I decided to try the place because it was convenient, the car was an old pile of junk, and because the shop did limit themselves instead of claiming to be experts in every make and model. I plan to take my Mazda6 there after the warranty is over.
There is also a VW specialist about 6 blocks from where I work. My kid just bought a '96 Jetta and is trying that place out. My wife has a Jetta under warranty that still goes to the dealer. I'll probably use the convenient VW specialist and his $60 per hour labor rate over the dealer (and $95 per hour labor, plus inflated parts prices) after warranty is up.
But, when the warranty ends, none of these "problems" are a problem any longer.
Independants always have an "out". If the really get stumped or it's areally miserable job they know will be more trouble than it's worth, they can always throw up their hands and tell their customers..."That is a dealer only type job".
A dealer can't do that. They HAVE to fix the car!
I kind of gotta disagree with that.
I've seen a lot of vehicles that have been to the dealer over and over with no fix. The people finally had enough of it and it ended up in my lap. I HAD to fix it, because the dealer couldn't.
There are a lot of the fleet vehicles I deal with that I send to the dealer, because of warranty, only to end up having to fix it myself or send it to an indy shop in town.
I know your reputation and you are definatly an exception.
People wonder why labor rates are so high!
A MODiC 3 (Factory Scanner) from BMW was $14,000 7 years ago.. 4 years ago you needed to upgrade to the GT1 for $17,500 now the new G3 setup is coming out for $30k+
We were delighted to see it go through 100k miles with just minor problems and then it finally happened. It was dying at lights... Whenever you hit a point where the car had to idle - a stop sign or a light, the engine would sputter and quit. We figured this was a good time to give it one last dealership visit (a selling point to a buyer) and remedy this stalling problem.... They couldn't fix it... This was a dealership with a seasoned Saab mechanic too. Parts were flying and diagnostics were hooked up... At one point they thought they would have to rip out a circuit board!
They finally gave up, refunded most of our money and said it was good for salvage if we wanted to try that route.
We told a friend the story and he HOWLED obscenities towards that dealership saying things like "those idiots couldn't fix a flat tire that still had air in it!". He urged us to take it to a local rural mechanic he knew.
The car was fixed in minutes... It was a simple evap purge valve that got clogged up. I asked him why the dealership didn't see it and he said the "kids" there are not mechanics - they're technicians, they want to plug junk in and make machines go beep. I laughed and told him that I had remarked to the "kids" at the dealership that it seemed like fuel or air delivery and they just scoffed at me saying it was electronic.
I would specify the name of the dealership but I don't know if it's against forum rules. Let's just say that I live in South Central PA in the York/Lancaster area and leave it at that.... After events like this, sometimes I think the Amish are doing it right with their lifestyle.....
http://www.newmancarcreations.com
As for dissatisfaction with the work you get, here again it's a matter of proper training and lack of licensing and apprenticeship.
A friend of mine was approached by a gentleman in his Masons Lodge I guess it was. Wanted his son to apprentice at my friend's Rolls Royce/Bentley restoration shop.
So my friend said: "Sure okay. That will cost you $1,500 a month"
The man was shocked. What, I pay YOU to have my son work for you?
He replied: "Well you'd easily pay that for a college education wouldn't you?"
It is very rare to see someone still working the line after about age 50. It takes a toll on the body.
please comment back and let me know if i have a chance fighting this, this is a 2005 dodge ram still new. 41,000 miles. it has a 70,000 mile power train warranty.
Don't blame it on the mechanics.
As for the problem, you are pretty much on your own.
I've said this before.............................................
When ever you get an estimate that doesn't seem right, call around and ask other shops for estimates on the problem. A lot will tell you that they would have to look at it, but ask them for an estimate on the same job you were quoted.
Remember that cheapest isn't always best.
Now, as far as your vehicle right now,
If the powertrain warranty is 70k miles and you have less than that and it is with in the age limit of the warranty, then I can't see how they couldn't cover it.
Call them again and explain that your vehicle should be under the warranty and that you will be discussing the problem with your attorney if they don't want to cover the warranty.
Be prepared to seek consultation with an attorney.
JUST ANOTHER CLOGGED PURGE VALVE! Discovered by local country mechanic. Seventy bucks.
We're starting to wonder if this Saab dealership's maintenance dept. is in cahoots with the sales department..... Pretty sad.
Unlikely. Once a person has owned a Saab, they usually won't buy another one!
In this way you not only can compare prices, but also check and see that both shops or three shops are bidding on the exact same job. Is it new rotors or turning old ones? What quality of pads are they using?.
I am a single female senior citizen on social security and know very little about automobile mechanics. I feel that my lack of knowledge in the area allowed them to take easy advantage of me which they readily did. I contacted the Saturn company and they got the amount reduced to $1567.66. They would not release my car until this amount was paid, which I had to do. My automobile is currently being repaired in another shop for $950 but I know I have been robbed by Saturn of The Mountain Empire.
My Saturn was a nice automobile, but I will never own another one. Has anyone else had a similar experience with a Saturn dealership?
I can't just go into your pocket book and help myself. I have to provide an estimate, and you have to authorize it before I can spend your money. Here, in my dealer, you are told up front that there is a diagnostic fee, and what that fee is. Typically, it is $95.00 that is quoted for a blanked generic fee. You sign the bottom of the repair order that states the diag fee as "$95" and provide us with permission to drive the vehicle as needed to diagnose it. That pays for up to one hour of diagnostic time. Most problems will be diagnosed in that one hour. So then you get a call back with a repair estimate that includes the original diagnostic fee as well. If you decline the repairs, you only owe the original diag fee of $95.
In some cases, the problem will require more time to diagnose. Some times teardown is required of a large mechanical part (like engine or trans), or the interior of the vehicle may require disassembly (taking seats, carpet, panels out). In a case like that, you'll get a call stating that we need more $$$ for the added diag time, and an estimate for the added time will be provided based the technician's view of the amount of teardown time he will need. If you decline it, you owe only the original diag fee because that time is used up.
Now, the funny part is when it comes to authorization when done over a phone. There is no one to sign a dollar figure. So, both parties need to be honest. Most of the time, that works fine. Every now and then, a shop or a customer (this does go both directions).... will say one thing and do something else.
Sometimes a customer lies. They authorize work and rip the shop off this way... it happens. I worked for one independent that recorded all phone authorizations with phone recording and informing the customer they were being recorded.
I've also heard of a bunch of stories like yours about shops who just either went ahead and fixed a car without authorization, or ran up a huge diag fee without auth. So I have no doubt it happens, I've just never seen it. I have seen what appeared to be miscommunication situations, usually the fault of the shop because they are not clear enough in explaining charges during the conversation.
It might be that they are saying you ok'd it when you didn't. But, can they prove it in court? That's what matters. If it is not in writing, the courts don't recognize it. The only thing is, it sounds like you've already paid for it. So, by paying for it, that is a type .... or could be turned into... a type of authorization.