Dealer vs. independent shop?

1246

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    I had a friend who rebuilt transmissions. He tended to "oversell" the jobs but I must say he always did a good job. His contention was that the easiest people to oversell were a) the smart ones + b) who knew everything about THEIR profession but nothing about his.

    If you rebuilt engines for a living, about the last thing you'd do is flush out an old engine. Also, if you knew engines really well, you'd probably know which ones were very durable, so that additives, synthetics, etc., were a complete waste of money on certain types. (the trick? Use them on highly stressed engines only).
  • driftracerdriftracer Member Posts: 2,692
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    I agree with Mr Shiftright.
    I rebuild/overhaul engines and I would NEVER allow an engine flush on one of my engines.

    I have seen many engines AFTER the engine flushes and I can tell you that quite a few of them weren't pretty. Most were engines that hadn't seen proper maintenance and some oil change place convinced the people that it would clean them out.
    It cleaned them out all right. Their money that is.

    As has been stated several times, the only proper way to flush an engine is to pull the pan and flush the engine out.
    But.......
    If you are going to pull the pan, you might as well go throught the engine, bearings and all.
    If the engine is in that bad of shape that it needs an engine flush, you have other problems that need to be addressed.

    I like wtd44's engine flush. LOL!
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    Yesterday I was reminded that the auto tranny on my 1996 Chrysler Concorde should get its 30K service (no typo, just low miles). I engaged the dealership Mopar service writer in conversation on the matter. He advised that the dealership I was visiting ALWAYS did power flushes on this type Chrysler tranny, and they almost never pulled pans and never changed filters. Just flush in reverse flow with new fluid. I was shocked and flabbergasted, so I pressed the points made, only to have them repeated. I shudder in fear of the prospect of such a procedure, and I may ignorantly think that the pan should be dropped, the filters changed, and no reverse power flush. Mr. Shiftright and Opatience-- your counsel is sought! P.S.: I was there to get the recall procedure C45 done.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Reverse flow flushing is a controversial procedure. Some mechanics think it is a great thing, while others like myself view it as damaging the system.

    Old school trans guys rarely recommend a reverse flow flush, because the system is designed to have the fluid go one direction and things that get caught in that direction are best left where they are. Dislodging the contaminates can often cause them to go places they were not designed to go and damage certain parts.
    Plus, I have never thought NOT dropping the pan was a good idea.

    However, flushing the trans cooler or the trans side of the radiator IS a good idea. But only the cooler.

    To put a different perspective on it, ABS systems on todays vehicles you do not want to push back the caliper pistons into the calipers without opening the bleeder screw, so the fluid doesn't backflush through the ABS valve. If the fluid backflushes, there is a chance of contaminates going through the ABS valve and lodging in it.
    Once contaminates lodge in the ABS valve, the system sees a fault and the valve is no longer operational.
    So, if you use the same train of thought, you can see why some mechanics, including myself, see the trans back flushing as not a good idea.

    Anyway, that's my long winded opinion.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    That confirms my suspicions on which side you would take. I am inclined to go to an independent tranny shop for the service, but not any time too soon.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    I tend to agree about avoiding backflushing the transmission and converter. I think I might do this on a problemmatic transmission with a lot of miles on it, as you then have little to lose anyway if things go wrong.

    Keeping the cooler flushed is a whole other idea and a good one, since the main killer of transmissions is not dirt but HEAT.
  • bcb1bcb1 Member Posts: 149
    I have read through about 50 of the posts here and concluded that there is a lot of good, solid advice here!

    I have a 2000 Yukon 2WD with the 5.3L engine. Very good vehicle; I've owned it since it was new; it still looks new; and it has 90K miles.

    I took it to the dealer the other day because it needs the intermediate steering shaft (it's had some steering wobble/rattle since it was brand new almost); and also because I was getting some rattling in the exhaust system somewhere; only after it warms up to full operating temps, and even then only at certain times (like taking off from a stop).

    The dealer calls me back and informs me that he can "get me back on the road" for a measly $2,000. I just about dropped the phone. $2,000? I didn't want the engine replaced, fer cryin' out loud! He said there was an intake manifold leak (verrrry serious!), and "since the manifold will be off the truck......" he wanted to do a cooling system power flush, transmission power flush, replace the plug wires, spark plugs, and replace some of the exhuast hangers/o-rings or something like that (for the exhaust rattle). That all added up to a whopping $2,000!

    I told them thanks but no thanks; and I picked it up. I'm going to my local independant garage that my Dad uses and trusts; and hopefully I'll get some honest advice there.

    But just as a ballpark estimate; what should I expect to pay for: replacing intake manifold gasket, trans fluid filter and change; coolant change (if it's even necessary?); oem plug wires; oem plugs; and the intermediate steering shaft?
  • driftracerdriftracer Member Posts: 2,692
    on the steering shaft, as about 90% of all GM products have the knocking/clunking in the shaft - there's probably a silent recall on it - call GMC Customer Service before you have someone fix it.

    The intake manifold gasket should pay between 3 and 4 hours, plus parts - the tune up should be under $200, I'm not a fan of flushing anything, except a cooling system, and yours should have Dexcool and be good for 150k...
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Intake manifold gaskets:
    upper, 1.5 hours
    lower, 2.9 hours
    add 1.0 hours w/AC

    Coolant should be flushed every 3 years. Permanent doesn't mean forever, it means it can stay in year round. After 3 years the anti-corrosion additives have signed off. Usually runs about $75 here.
    Brake fluid should be flushed every 3 years max. Expect 1 hour labour plus fluid. For more info read this:
    http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/brkfld.shtml

    At 90K miles the plugs and wires are due for replacement. Use ACDelco only.

    DON'T get the trans power flushed, but have a fluid and filter change.
  • driftracerdriftracer Member Posts: 2,692
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Looks like around $800 to me.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    If you are like me, you may find this "huge" service expense at 90K miles less than appealing. I seldom even get to 90K before my fickle nature guides me into replacing such a vehicle with a nice, new one with no miles on it...
  • bcb1bcb1 Member Posts: 149
    Thanks to all that responded about my GMC Yukon repair message -driftracer, Mr Shiftright, wtd44, and alcan.

    I was thinking that all of this should come in the neighborhood of $500 to $800, and Mr Shiftright confirmed that. I guess the only "real" expense is the labor involved in the intake manifold gasket job. Everything else...plug wires, plugs, trans fluid change, fixing an exhaust rattle, etc...is all fairly normal routine maintenance stuff.

    Is there anything about replacing the intake manifold gaskets that I should be concerned about going to an Indie shop versus a dealer; or is it a straight forward repair?
  • bcb1bcb1 Member Posts: 149
    WTD44: I have to agree in a way; it does make me think about buying a brand new Yukon or Tahoe.

    BUT - Understand that I saved for this one for about 2 years, and I ONLY wanted a bright red one with a silver bottom (which I had to special order from my dealer). Plus I wanted 2WD; and all the dealers around here only stock 4WD.

    Now you can't even get a Tahoe/Yukon in bright red; so I'm out of luck in that regard. And the mega-payment (even with 7K cash down) was no fun. I paid it off about 3 months ago and it is SO nice not to have a truck payment anymore.

    There really isn't much out there that I like besides the Tahoe/Yukon. Suburban is too big. I like the BMW X5, but it's too small, and pricey even if you buy a used one. Same for the Mercedes ML series. I don't like Expeditions. I like the Toyota Land Cruiser, but they cost really stupid money, even used. $40K for a USED TLC is just too much. So I guess I'll be driving my "old" 2000 bright-red Yukon for the foreseeable future :)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Straightforward job providing the shop has the torque specs for the manifold, and that cheesey coolant hose fitting doesn't break off.
  • bcb1bcb1 Member Posts: 149
    The dealer recommended replacing the steering shaft due to the rattling/clunking; at a price of $125 plus an "hour or so" labor. I love those exact prices, don't you?

    Now that I've done a bit of browsing; I see that GM recommends a "grease kit" to grease the shaft rather than replace it. Which one would you mechanic guys recommend? Greasing it with a quarter's worth of grease sure sounds cheaper than replacing the shaft; but would it just end up needing replaced anyway eventually?
  • driftracerdriftracer Member Posts: 2,692
    until the "greasing" doesn't work, then they replace it.

    Has the intermediate steering shaft been lubricated previously?
  • bcb1bcb1 Member Posts: 149
    The dealer looked at it (in fact the service manager even told me on the phone that they were going to grease it); but when I went to pick it up they hadn't even touched it. But they were most happy to hand me a bill for $93 (basically charging me for the service manager's time for sitting at a calculator figuring out how they could screw me out of $2,000). Sorry; I'll get off my "I hate the GMC dealer soapbox".

    I'll have my local repair guy grease it and see how that works; then we'll worry about replacing it if that doesn't fix it. Heck, I've been putting up with it for almost 5 years now :)
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Hi everybody! I'm new to this board (I usually hang out in Isuzu Rodeo board), but though my experience is going to fit this discussion group perfectly. I noticed that some people rave at Just Brakes $99 "deal" and their "fair estimates"... well, I always thought that Brakes plus are much better... hmm... it turned out to be not too much better... and MORE expensive than dealer.

    I took my car to one of the Brakes Plus locations here in Denver and experienced the most straight on attempt to overcharge/overprice/underestimate and overestimate at the same time I've ever seen.

    When I took it in, i complained that the steering wheel pulsates when brakes are applied at high speed and about the squeaking noise. (I've talked a lot about it in Rodeo forum. It's coming from the rear when you back up with wheels turned WITHOUT brakes applied). I also suggested the take an extra look at rear brakes for that noise. When they called back they said that the front rotors need to be turned (well, duh...) and, therefore, the pads need to be replaced for $159 + $50 rotors + $50 grease packs. (dealer will do it for LESS than that). They didn't find anything wrong with the rear brakes but he said that he didn't hear any sounds coming from it. I asked him if he got a chance to test drive it and he said no. Hmm... Getting frustrated, I asked him to put it back together and test drive it and let me know. After two hours, I called him myself (he, apparently, decided he doesn't need to call me back) and he said that he did hear the sound but didn't know where it was coming from. He then said I misunderstood him and he actually did test drive the truck in the first place. GRRRRR....

    His guess was it might be coming from e-brake system, but they didn't check it out as they normally don't do it as part of the brake inspection as it's unlikely that it will go bad. When asked if it's possible that the drums or the pads in that system are worn, he said “Yes, but unlikely.” When asked if it may be not aligned, he told me the same thing, while still admitting that's the only possible place he could think off the sound might be coming from. He refused to check it as, as he claimed, they didn't have enough time and too many cars in line (they had my truck there for 4 hours at that time).

    When I picked it up and looked at the “suggestions” that were listed in the estimate I noticed they “suggested” I change the shocks and serpentine belt. The belt didn't surprise me too much (except the price tag on it was $115: $50 labor and $65 parts), but shocks did. When asked, he explained that shocks are fine, not leaking or anything but “they” recommend replacing them. I wondered who “they” and his answer was: “Dealers and other such places”. I don't remember seeing “replace shocks” in my maintenance schedule for $60K mi. Additionally, i don't remember seeing it in ANY scheduled maintenance plan for any vehicle.

    So, basically, the results of my brake inspection are as follows: Brakes Plus didn't feel like messing too much with the brakes to check it out completely even though the possible problem area was determined.
    They found a $300 problem(front brakes) which the found sufficient to pay for their time.
    They tried to sell me unnecessary parts with the most ridiculous reasons.
    AND (I applaud them for this!) the overshot dealers prices by a good portion on the belt. (dealer wants $30 for the belt and $50 labor) and either overshot or, at lest, matched the dealer on the brakes. Of course, they claimed, their pads are much better than what I can get from Isuzu.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    After years in an auto related business I would suggest staying away from the chains. I would stick with a dealer or a trusted independant.

    For one thing, a lot of the chains know they will never see you again and the will try to sell you everything they can think of.

    The brake pads they say are "much better" are often made of very hard material so they will last long enough to get them through their warranty period. The downside will be squeaky brakes.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    I think you are right on the money in this situation. I must say that I once tried Meineke in my locale, and the results were excellent, however the price was about the same as a dealership. In retrospect, I considered that in the future it would make better economic sense to go to a dealership. After all, you are more likely to be able to hold the dealership responsible for correcting unsatisfactory service, in the unlikely event that it might be necessary to do so. Agree?
  • asafonovasafonov MinneapolisMember Posts: 409
    Not sure about the engine flush, but regarding the AT oil flush: a few years ago, I spoke at some length about these to the owner/mechanic of a very small local shop I had my car serviced for years, and he did not recommended power flushes for the transmission in old cars. His explanation was, the flush was likely to dislodge small pieces of "gunk" that would do all kinds of bad stuff. He suggested a drain and refill, repeated after 6000 miles if I felt like it. Did what he suggested and the car is still running great 3 years later at 140k miles.

    One other thing he said was that the power flushing equipment was quite expensive, and there may have been some pressure to get more money out of that investment.
  • cutehumorcutehumor Member Posts: 137
    my 92 mitsubishi mirage 4g15 is leaking oil out of the rear main oil seal. I know pulling the transmission is required to repair the oil seal. I like to take to independent shop. I went to one and he wouldn't tell me how much it would cost to repair. he just said "we won't know until we work on it" do some of these independent shops don't use labor guides?
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    That is their way of saying they don't have a clue.
    If they can't provide a quote, then they can get your vehicle in, tear it apart and charge you what they want. Not a good practice.
    I would shy away from that shop and find another shop who can provide a quote.

    Below are the OEM part numbers and prices from the dealer. So, the price may be about $20-$25 for the seal and another $5 for the gasket.
    Add about $50 for incidentals, like sealer, trans oil engine oil and filter and waste disposal. MY recommendation is to find a shop that can give you a firm quote. If they can't give you a decent estimate, then they may not have the info available to do the job, which may lead to trouble later on.
     Part OEM Part Price

    Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal

    33 - Rear Main Oil Seal MD372250 $16.87

    35 - Rear Main Oil Seal Case Gasket MD183242 $2.28

    Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal Replace

    Manual Trans B 4.6 hours Includes: R&R Transaxle.

    Auto Trans B 4.6 hours Includes: R&R Transaxle.

     Remove transmission, clutch assembly and flywheel or flex plate, as equipped.

    Remove rear oil seal case and separate: oil seal, case and separator, if equipped.

    Drive in oil seal from inside of case, using suitable tool. Ensure the oil seal plate fits properly in the inner contact surface of the seal case, if equipped.
    Install separator with the oil hole facing the bottom of the case, if equipped.
    Apply engine oil to oil seal lips.
    Install the oil seal case in the cylinder block.
  • cutehumorcutehumor Member Posts: 137
    0patience,

    I have the 4 speed automatic. Thanks for the information. This leads to another question. My dad works as a bus driver for the public school system. He told me this morning that the head mechanic there said he could do the job for $300 as a side job. Not including parts and supplies I would provide. Does that sound reasonable? labor rate at independents here are about $70/hour.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    I'll bet your dad's mechanic compatriot would be a good deal both in cost and quality, presuming he was not just talking casually. He didn't get to be the head mechanic by being average, wouldn't you think? You might want to really look into his offer, and then take it to a dealer if you aren't sure that you'll get the quality of job you want.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    I would say that is reasonable.
    And since he works on buses, his attention to detail is probably far superior to other mechanics, as he is held personally liable for things he misses on those vehicles.

    It is a miserable job and I would charge at least $85/hour minimum for that job, plus parts.
    Do yourself a favor and get the seal and gasket from the dealer. You will thank yourself later for it.
    Also, you may need a "speedi-sleeve", "wear ring" or what ever you want to call it. It is a sleeve that goes over the end of the crankshaft where the seal rides. They are usually about $20, but if the old seal has worn a groove in the seal ride of the crankshaft, it will be necessary.
  • icrmanicrman Member Posts: 23
    That is real reasonable. I wouldn't want to do that job for less than $400.00 as side job. Especially if it is a transaxle.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    Yeah,I would go for that in a hurry!
  • cutehumorcutehumor Member Posts: 137
    the guy just finished with dropping the transmission and putting it back together. I went ahead and replaced one of the cv boots that was torn when he removed the axle that cost

    $11. He accepted $275 for the job. However, when he replaced the rear main seal. he showed me that he didn't have to pry out the old seal. it was "popped out" what would cause that? the old seal wasn't torn or cracked. He put in the new dealer part seal in that I bought. I test drove the car with him and He forgot to reconnect the speedometer but that was no biggie. He reconnected it when we got back and the oil leak is gone. I think I saved a couple hundred dollars this way. It took him about 6.5 hours to do the entire job.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    That is good to hear.

    Sounds like a good deal all around.

     

    After looking at my last post, I probably need to clarify the comment I made about his attention to detail is probably far superior to other mechanics.

    I meant no disrespect to any other mechanics. Just that a bus mechanic is liable for anything he misses or makes a mistake on that would cause anyone to get hurt. So if he has been at that job for quite some time, he has no choice but to be very meticulous.

     

    Did I back pedal good enough? ; )
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check the PCV system for operation.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Al reads better than I do. : )

    I missed the part about the seal popped out.

     

    Alcan gave you great advice.

    If the PCV valve or hose is plugged, it will create crankcase pressure which would push the seal or seals out. I would check to make sure that the hose to the PCV (if equipped) has vacuum to it and replace the PCV valve.
  • cutehumorcutehumor Member Posts: 137
    I changed the pcv valve. I still need to check the hose to it though. After reconnecting everything, I drove the car about 50 miles with no problems Then all of a sudden, while driving I heard this taping sound, he took a look at it and couldn't find where it was coming from. On the way home, I was accelerating up to 45mph in 4th gear, and heard a "boom" like something broke. I said oh !@#$. felt like I lost gear, pulled over asap. had the car towed home. He helped me drop the transmission again, the flexplate broke. It looked like one of the hex type screws on the plate worked halfway out while driving, and the loose plate was making that tapping sound. What would cause that? did the transmission suffer any damage? he mentioned to me that he's going to get some locktight to put on these bolts for the new flexplate. I'm not getting charged at all for this one. :)
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 766
    Use the dealer for oil & filter changes. If a problem arises and you need to use the warranties, all your "proof of maintenance" is in one place. It makes life "stupid / simple"! Change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Don't be cheap with maintenance.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 766
    I would drain and flush both the cooling system and the brake system every two years, and I would use factory fluids.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    You have got to be kidding, change oil every 3000 miles and use the dealer for everything. Too bad they use bulk oil, the cheapest they can find, maybe even the incorrect weight but it is the dealer!

     

    Wow, those salesmen sure have been trained on how to intimidate the new car owners into dealer maintenance.

    However, if that lets you sleep at night then stick with it.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Well, today I got a taste of how people are treated at dealerships.
    My wife's 01 Impala was having a problem shifting from Reverse to Neutral and the intake gasket was leaking coolant.
    No problem, there are TSBs on both problems and it is under warranty.

    So, the vehicle goes in, they replace the intake gasket and don't even flush the cooling system, even though it sludged up. Terrific, more work for me.
    They drop the transmission pan and find no metal and then call me and tell me that all it need is a flush....$270. HUH???
    Yeah, I don't think so Bud.
    So I tell them if they aren't going to do anything about the trans, change the trans fluid and call it good.
    So, my wife picks up the car and calls me and says the transmission is "growling". As a typical husband, I asked what she meant by it is "growling". And of course her reply is that it is growling!!!
    Ok, so not much I can do about it until afternoon.
    So that afternoon, my son checked the trans fluid and started filling the transmission.
    After 4 1/2 quarts, it finally started showing on the dipstick.

    So I get home and the transmission is slipping worse than it was and mysteriously, the steering wheel is off center. HUH??
    Which of course, they never touched the steering or hit anything, even though the underside says different.
    I called the dealer and looked at the repair order, which showed they only charged us for 4 quarts of trans fluid. And no one thought this was odd?

    So now, the car has to go back Tuesday, which I am confident that they will fix the transmission problem. NOT!

    As a mechanic, I have never been so disgusted with this industry. Most of my career in this industry has been helping folks and providing a resource for folks. To see, first hand, what folks go through (even though I know better), is totally disgusting to me.

    The worst thing is, I send several vehicles there from a fleet for work. Guess that is going to change. I have to wonder if they realize how many customers they will lose because of their dishonesty and incompetence.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    Welcome to the club! It is almost unbelievable, isn't it?
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I have come to the conclusion that dealers do not care if they lose maintenance customers, why, a steady stream of new sales where the buyers feel obligated to use the dealer for service due to warranty fears. So, lose a few with poor service but offset by new owners who are fearful of warranty issues. And, there are those unique service problems where only a dealer can service as most independent shops draw the line at certain types of repairs or problems.

    I agree though, for about everything else crazy to use a dealer, paper hassles, appointments, lousy service rep, poor/sloppy repairs and huge prices make them undesirable.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Well, to add to the more unbelievable........
    The car went back in, because the transmission was starting to slip worse.
    I put a data logger on the vehicle and ran it, so I could show that the rpms were raising, while the vehicle speed was not.

    The transmission fluid was black as coal and they told me all they could do was flush the transmission for $230, because there isn't any trouble codes. HUH??
    I must have stupid written on my forehead.
    30K on the trans fluid and it is black. There is a problem. These warranty companies are a joke.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    If you owned an Audi, you'd be used to black oil at 30K.

    I don't think all dealers are bad. I know some very good ones, but they are getting rarer and rarer. They seem so profit-driven that they become a tad...um...merciless.

    You have to cut good customers a break now and then....build goodwill...eat the cookie and swallow hard to please people if the situation requires special action.

    I think it is the "impersonality" that really gets to people. If you think about it, what makes us angry as human beings is not being yelled at or cheated a bit so much as being IGNORED.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    Some of us despise all three! >:O[
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Yeah but what would get you into more of a rage...being charged $10 for a fuse that fixes your problem, or leaving your car all day, coming back that night, and finding that it hadn't been touched?
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    That is perhaps the most profound, existential enlightenment to ever be in this forum... >:^/
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    Isn't the hours allowed by most automakers on warranty work virtually guarantee the job will be done in a sloppy manner? Combine that with a severe shortgage of experienced technicians, and it is no surprise.

    I look at automobiles as being equivalent to the healthcare system - both are extremely complicated, and the actual service providers make the smallest piece of the pie, as the middlemen (dealers, hospitals, insurance companies, etc.) take most of the money for themselves. Ever wonder why a doctor has basically practice assembly-line medicine to make a living a doctor should make?
  • ljwalters1ljwalters1 Member Posts: 294
    this is not directly on point, but there's a lot of knowledgable people in this forum who can probably answer this question:

    I bought a 1 year old used car that's still under warranty. When I bring it in, will the repair-shop know from the VIN or whatever that the car is under warranty or do I need to do something more?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Well the dealer will know but a repair shop won't.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,211
    And often, dealers can input your information into the manufacturer's system so that you will become associated with that under-warranty vehicle as its current owner. There are advantages to getting this done, obviously.
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