Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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  • 0rnery0rnery Member Posts: 23
    What a coincidence:

    Engine Surge When Braking--I have a 2006 Lincoln Towncar...

    The answer also includes mention of disconnecting the booster for troubleshooting. He's right, but it's VERY hard to brake without the booster, so be forewarned.
  • barjorobarjoro Member Posts: 4
    No, I don't use cruise control. I don't even know if it works on this car because I didn't try it.
  • 0rnery0rnery Member Posts: 23
    Somebody driving a 2006 Town Car, with the same problem as you, paid $15.00 for that answer, so I thought it might be the solution.

    The same fellow who got paid for that, also offered the suggestion to disable the brake booster. That could help eliminate it as the culprit, but it's very hard to brake without the booster.
  • jay2010jay2010 Member Posts: 2
    On a similar website I found a poster saying that he had simply disconnected the power to the actuator and used a screwdriver to move the door from one side to the other. He had to do this once in the spring, to deliver cool air, and once in the fall, to deliver hot air. That sounds like a workable solution for me here in central Ohio, with my otherwise wonderful 1996 Town Car. How difficult is it to locate and disconnect the power to this unit?

    The diagnostic test I just did confirmed the actuator is bad. It's already gone to "all cold air" after giving me the clicking and tapping as it tried to close/open these past few days. Otherwise it's time to dig up about $800 or so and get her to the dealership. My fear is that will all the bolts and screws that are involved I'll end up with a good actuator and multiple rattles & squeaks that have nothing to do with the original problem. Thanks for any input!
  • kargkarg Member Posts: 20
    My '03 Cartier L (long wheel base) recently started leaking rear axle grease from the passenger side rear wheel. The inside of the wheel was cover and it was leaking so much - it came out onto the paint. I knew something was amiss. Long story short - my mechanic had to replace both rear axles because they were literally wearing out. The passenger side had a groove created from where the bearings spun around the axle - that was 1/8" deep. the driver's side was not quite as deep, but definitely there...

    I read there was a recall for "Fleet" versions of the Town Car L editions - but not for the ones sold in dealerships. Kinda silly - considering they are essentially built the same. I filed a complaint from Ford.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    How many miles on the car when the axle needed repair?
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    edited March 2010
    Hi. My wipers on my 91 Town Car started acting up the other day.Now they stop in the up position.I have a new wiper motor that I want to install if it's not to hard.Anybody know where the wiper motor is located on the car?? Under the plastic stuff at the bottom of the windshield maybe? What tools will I need for the job??Thanks.
  • msledge50msledge50 Member Posts: 11
    Hello, i have a 99 town car that just shut off try to restart it and it just turn over but wouldn't start so i had a new fuel pump put on because it was not getting fuel,Now with the new pump on its getting fuel but it still won't start it just keeps turning over but won't start. Any suggestions. :sick:
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    TRY A NEW CRANK SENSOR or a new regulator,if they still use those on cars!lol.My first thought was fuel pump but you fixed that.So crank sensor might be it.
  • gilly09gilly09 Member Posts: 1
    hi guys hope you can help i just bought a second hand lincoln town car 1987 model the engine cut out when i start to turn the steering wheel any advice would be most greatfull thanks gilly09
  • msledge50msledge50 Member Posts: 11
    where is the crank sensor located and how can you tell if its bad, THANKS :sick:
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    Thanks man!
  • msledge50msledge50 Member Posts: 11
    THANKS TO YOU, I am on there now
  • wicketwicket Member Posts: 18
    edited April 2010
    i finally got the car fixed today and it was what you told me. It was the lower rear control arm bushing. thank you for your help. i forgot the car was a lincoln town car signature with 109,600 miles on it.
  • wicketwicket Member Posts: 18
    edited April 2010
    the car seems to jerk and buck when i give it the gas. it feels like the engine is missing but at an idle you cant even tell it is running.the car has 106,000 miles on it. i just got it a while back and it ran great. any ideast it is a 1993 LTC sig.
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    02 sensor.bad gas.old plugs/wires.throttle position sensor.Could be a bunch of stuff or any one.
  • armywife818armywife818 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 94 and it jerked for 4 years. Been to dealers from east to west. One even had it for 3 weeks. Any after alot of money and time plus frustration, my husband checked the alternator, I know it sounds weird, but it was sending the wrong volts and causing power surges. Have someone check the alternator on a computer or something. We got a new alternator around november, and since then no jerking or dieing. Runs smooth. It now has 230,000 miles. Good lucky
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    This problem developed a week or two ago. It began with a slight delay in cranking when I turned the ignition switch to start the engine. It would crank and start. Didn't think much about it. On subsequent starts over a couple days the delay got longer until eventually it wouldn't do anything when I tried to start the engine. No crank, no perceptible click or clicking. Just basically nothing.

    The next day, I put a new positive cable connector on the 2-3 yr old battery b/c the old one was corroded. After doing that, it started up fine and I had no problems starting until yesterday. Let me explain, I don't drive much. Usually short trips, one or two stops about 6 miles total but yesterday I made several stops for a longer trip. On the next to the last stop it barely cranked but started then stupid me made another stop and then it wouldn't do anything when I tried to restart it.

    After waiting about 20 min. and trying several times with no crank, it started but not with a regular sounding crank. I got home. Tried to restart and nothing. Fast forward to this morning.

    Started right up like nothing wrong. Drove 3 miles to store, after 20 min. started like nothing wrong. Drove 3 miles home. Turned off ignition. Immediately tried to restart. Started but didn't sound 100%. Shut down and tried to restart. Started to crank for a second then stopped cranking. Tried to restart - Nothing.

    It seems when the engine is cold - there's no problem starting. I bought the car in 2004 with 93000 mi and it now has 160. I haven't replaced any electrical except for the battery. Sorry for the length but, this way you know what I know. Anyone have any ideas?
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    Maybe the fuel pump is going.Maybe the CRANK SENSOR is going.Maybe the VOLTAGE REGULATOR is going (if it has one!lol)
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    Could you read post #944 and see if this is what was happening to you? How did you resolve your issue? Thanks
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    edited April 2010
    Could you read post #944 and see if this is what was happening to you? Did your fix finally solve the problem once and for all? You said you had a lot of diagnotic work done. Was it a dealer or independent mechanic that finally figured it out? How many places did you go to? Thanks
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    edited April 2010
    It said it's not CRANKING. (starter is not engaging) Fuel pump works fine. Replaced 1 yr. ago. (sorry I originally said only electrical replaced was battery).
    Maybe you think its funny lol. I can think of alot more ways to have fun.lol
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    Does anyone know? I've ruled out the battery and battery cable. Which leaves alot.
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    edited April 2010
    It sounds like you did have everything changed except the wiring. I think I found a good troubleshooting article for starter problems. It's specific for Porsche but it should allow one not to have to replace everything to solve the problem.
    http://www.928oc.org/tip/tip567.htm
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    I found an excellent site for do it yourselfers and those who want a good understanding of how their car works. Ques and ans. how to, pictures diagrams.
    Here's an article referring to starter problems. I'm sure I'll find the problem. Once I know the problem I won't get ripped off if I have to have someone do the labor.
    Thanks everyone. Honk if I see you.
    http://www.2carpros.com/first_things/car_will_not_crank.htm
  • wicketwicket Member Posts: 18
    fixed the jerky transmission. took the car to a transmission guy i know and he said it was a misfire in the engine and it was probably the plug wires and spark plugs so i stoped an the way home and got plug wires and plugs and it runs very good now.
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    Here's a few tips to quickly diagnose this problem. If nothing happens when you turn the ignition switch, have your inside lights on. Don't come on or are weak. Or Do they dim way down when trying to crank? Yes. Check Battery.
    No dim? Starter not getting current. Check battery connections. Then check connection at the starter solenoid. This is the small wire connection. Take off and clean and replace. This was my problem. This requires getting under the vehicle which has to elevated. Be careful. Get it on ramps or better a rack. Don't get under with just the jack. If you can test for voltage at this connection and it is present when trying to start and it doesn't crank after cleaning the connection with current present replace starter/solenoid.

    If there is no current present at the solenoid when trying to crank you have backtrack the wiring and check ignition switch, neutral safety switch, relay (never did find it- maybe inside) ugh!
  • msledge50msledge50 Member Posts: 11
    what all do i have to take loose to remove the radio in a 99 town car. :confuse:
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    edited April 2010
    Hi.It's pretty simple actually.All you need is the right tool.If you look on both sides of the radio,you'll see 4 little round holes.Go to ebay or your ford dealer and get the tool to put in there and then you just pull and it comes out.The tool is shaped like a sideways horseshoe.
  • msledge50msledge50 Member Posts: 11
    i cant find the tool on e-bay it might be because i really don't know what i'm looking for.Can the tool be purchase at auto parts store, :confuse:
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    Yesterday it wouldn't crank at all again so I bit the bullet and had the starter replaced. The old starter had Mortorcraft written on it so it could be the original. If it is I think that's a good longevity. 17 yrs/160K miles.
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    93 TC. 4.6L This the inline one that costs about $12.
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    Here is a link to show location and how to replace most town car fuel filters.
    http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00260.html
  • 93sig93sig Member Posts: 13
    Where is that sensor?
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    You can try an auto parts store but any ford/lincoln dealer will have one too.
  • wicketwicket Member Posts: 18
    the a/c wasnt working so i had it recharged and now sometimes it works for a while and then it wont work. it seems like i can turn it off and restart and it will work for a while. whats is going on?
  • chenjingzhuchenjingzhu Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Town Car with 110,xxx miles has been having exactly the same problems. At first, I thought that it might have something to do with the transmission, because the car would "buck" as if the transmission was hunting for the proper gear, but this is not the case. Rather, as others have noted in this forum (thanks to you all), the cause of the problem is ignition. I replaced the boots (Borg-Warner @ $4.50/each) and spark plugs (Autolite platinum @ $2.50/each); now it runs smooth as a dream, even when added load is placed on the engine while engaged in overdrive (i.e. the conditions which would produce the "check trac" warning light, zero temperature gauge reading, rough running / bucking, and goofy downshift outcomes). 7mm to remove the coils from the manifold, 5/8" spark plug socket with extension to remove plugs. Gap is .054". Platinum is OE. Must remove plastic air intake on driver's side to access driver's side coils/plugs/boots: one nut atop the engine and disconnect from airfilter, throttle, and two smaller hoses at the rear.

    2000 Town Car: Does anyone have a remedy for random turn signal clicking?

    2000 Town Car: Does anyone have a remedy for a heat/ac blower motor that won't turn on?

    2000 Town Car: I had water collecting in the passenger side footwell as well. Water was leaking through the fresh air intake gasket just underneath the windshield on the passenger side. I fixed this with a homemade rubber gasket and silicone caulk.
  • stinkylinkystinkylinky Member Posts: 8
    Hello everyone, my issue seems to be that when i accelerate my TC i get this awful screech, and if i hit the gas a little too aggressively than i get a clack,clack,clack followed by the screeching. only seems to do it while i've got the accelerator pressed, no sounds when im just coasting. not very handy over here so any help would be appreciated.
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    Could it be your belts under the hood you're hearing??Other then that,is your e brake on? :confuse:
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    If it is under the hood, you may be able to isolate this noise with some WD40. Without the engine running (for the inexperienced) squirt a small amount of WD40 behind a couple of the pulleys (idlers, water pump, power steering, alternator). Start the car between each application. Although the car is at idle, you should be able to hear some slight differentiation in the sound. If the noise is at one or more of the pulleys, the WD40 will silence it but only for a short period of time.
  • chenjingzhuchenjingzhu Member Posts: 2
    The blower motor in my 2000 Town Car stopped working about a month ago, prior to total failure it was intermittent. The problem was a faulty blower motor resistor (aka blower motor speed control), which is mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall behind the passenger side valve cover. Easy enough to replace own your own if you have tools and patience (it's a tight squeeze to get to some of the fasteners). Here's a good page to look at for reference: http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00062.html
    Bad solder was the source of the resistor failure on my TC as well. Airtex should improve the product! The driver's window switch module (Airtex) failed on my car last year too!
  • stinkylinkystinkylinky Member Posts: 8
    thanks for the feedback, as i've tried to isolate the noise it almost seems as if happens during the rotation of the wheels if that makes any sense at all, but strangely enough when i let off the gas it goes away, then when i hit the gas again the noise comes back but seems to screech at the same time of one revolution of the wheels? gosh im so damn bad at car repairs/diagnosis and im sorry for the vague information given. i'll attempt to grease or lube the pulleys like you suggested even though it doesnt make the noise while idling, only upon accelerating, guy at work said maybe CV joints or something to do with the tires. well i'll keep trying, thanks again for any help you guys can provide

    charlie
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    Have the joints checked.It can't hurt and might keep your tires from falling off!So to speak.Is your E BRAKE off??
  • simbashaesimbashae Member Posts: 1
    Evaporative emmission System Leak detected a sm leak.. What exactly is this ??/ I have a 1999 Lincoln Town Car......
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    This is part of the fuel system. The fuel tank evaporative emission system allows for controlled release of fuel tank pressure through the evaporative emissions canister. The canister is located on the driver's side of the car near the front of the engine. You have to get under the car to see it. There is a canister, hoses attached to the canister, and valves. First, check your gas tank cap. You may need a new one. Then check the hose connections to the canister and make sure that they are tight. Look for cracks along the hoses attached to the canister. If the hoses are cracked, replace them.
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Is this a chirping sound that you are hearing when accelerating and then when you are coasting, you don't hear it?
  • msledge50msledge50 Member Posts: 11
    Hello i have no power to my windows,door locks and moonroof. check the fuses they are good i here a click when i hit the door locks but nothing happens. Could it be my power window box but if so why won't my moonroof work. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. :confuse:
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    I had this problem in my 94.It turned out to be a bad power moon roof switch or wire up there.It would be that everything worked but then from time to time everything stopped working for a while,then it would work again.I brought it to Ford and they found it very quickly.
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