Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • bremertongbremertong Member Posts: 436
    Thank you for your reply. I agree with most of what you say. The comparison was the 05 ride quality versus the 04. Agree that the ride quality was probably within the limits of normal on the 04 but the drive train was clearly not in as good shape as the 05 even though the 05 had ten thousand miles more on it. The dealership did agree to allow overnight use if I find another car that I like. I live in a small town and they have known me for many years so not that surprising that they would allow overnight usage before deciding. Ford has revived improved and brought back model names in the past and hope Town Car will be one of them, don't think it will be any time soon but still hoping. Thanks again for your interest and reply.
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    I used to be in the Limo Business in NYC thru the 80's and 90's using Town Cars and Grand Marquis'. Since then I've had a 91,94,99,2002,2005 and 2 2007's,one of which I still have.Leaks were an issue on a few of them and in the 91 ( I knew of the engine issues with that 1st year 4.6 but it was ok while I had it) it's air ride went shortly after I gave it to a kid around here.The 05 had a noisy sunroof issue.That was the only suspension problem in all the lincolns.They are all over the place out here and the nice thing is it doesn't matter if it's a 95 or 05,the ride quality is excellent anyway!I actually like that 90's style a little better then the current version but I like some features in the newer ones that the oder ones don't have.A classy car no matter what year!Good luck and hop you find another one out there!CARS.COM and AUTOTRADER have many,many Lincolns.
  • lestermanlesterman Member Posts: 4
    I just sold my 99 Town car with 140,000 miles. It was my first Town Car which had 99,000 on it when I bought it. I loved it and its great ride. The only reason I sold it was to get a newer one with lower mileage and possibly take advantage of a better resale value. I found an 03 with 64,000 actual miles that I bought from a 90 year old widow whose husband had just died 6 weeks earlier. She did not have a drivers license so couldn't use the car. I only did a short test ride (10 minutes) and did not get to a freeway. Car looked and felt like a new car. Bought the car and then felt this car did not have the ride quality of my 99. I stopped at a dealer to get there opinion as to whether something was changed in ride design between the 99 and the 03. He told me the only thing he could think of was the 03 has 17 inch tires to the 99s 16 inch. I'm not sure this is it, but I know I'm feeling bumps more and also some roughness coming through from the road itself or the drive train that I didn't feel from the 99. I'm wondering if the tires themselve's could be the problem. They only have around 6000 miles on them and are "Good Year Weatherhandler ES". I'm also wondering if it could be a difference in air pressure in the air bags of the 2 cars. I did have a bad rear shock that I found right after I bought the car. Installed new rear shocks which helped take care of that problem. Thanks
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Our 94 Sig has an underhood light, automatic trunk pull down, cornering lights, & the parking brake releases when you put in Drive. These are not even available on the 11 MKS so we are learning to do without. :D
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    High humidity will drastically "warm up" your cool air produced by the A/C, as much as 20 or degrees. On an aging system, what you experience isn't all that unusual. Best remedy would be to switch to recirculate to block out the wet outside air. Should help a lot.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Jittery ride sounds like the tires to me, and if the inflation doesn't seem to make a difference, the actual tires may. Some discount brands, particularly those made in China are not at all ride or road noise engineered, and can mess up the ride on luxury cars noticeably. Now, maybe you have Michelins on the car, in which case, I'm all wet. But it's worth a shot. If the tires are cheap ones, you may consider upgrading. May help a lot.
  • bartbarterbartbarter Member Posts: 39

    The dealer was seriously uninformed. The entire panther front end was completely redesigned in 03.

    The standard 'recirculating ball steering, suspension being bolted to the frame with a stamped metal crossmember supporting the engine' (like your 99) was put to pasture.

    In its' place, a marvel really: a big cast aluminum rail runs from one front tire to the other, with the engine sitting on it, the control arms (upper forged, lower aluminum!) are bolted to this rail. The shock and spring setup was changed to a coilover unit (looks like a strut, but there's still an upper control arm/ball joint), and the old recirculating ball was changed to rack and pinion steering.

    Handles better, and it's a much more planted car (it's hardly the same car!), but much stiffer overall as you noticed. It is radically different. Some prefer it - I prefer the old front end.

    Just one example - this is similar to the lower control arm on the 99 -

    And this is the control arm on your 03.

    This is the new front end:

  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    edited October 2012
    Bart,thanks for the wealth of knoweledge man!I didn't know about those changes.I'm an old ex NYC limo driver from the 80's and 90's and I expect to be driving my couch when I get in a Lincoln!As well as expecting it to handle like the Titanic in rough seas.I love the old swaing front end but this newer handling stuff isn't to bad either.My 07 is slightly more responsive then my other ones were.Another thing I miss more is the old seats they had in the 90's versions.Much more comfortable then these new ones.
  • lestermanlesterman Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Bart for the great response. I knew there had to be something different about this 03 from my 99. The feeling I get from the drivetrain in this 03 I never had in my 99. (maybe poor motor mount isolation or exhaust isolation) I'm with you, I prefer the old style for smoothness. Your right though, the 03 does seem like a better handling car.

  • bartbarterbartbarter Member Posts: 39
    You're welcome guys, it's nice to be able to tell some folks who haven't heard it from me 100 times :D

    I went from a 97 MGM to a 85 TC and then to a 03 MGM in the last couple years (I've owned many panthers). The 03 LOOKS like the 97, but the 97 is closer to the 85.

    And even though it's still being fixed up I'd usually rather take the 85. Not to slam the 03 though, it's a great car, and I prefer it in bad weather. I can see why some would rather have the 03. Different strokes etc.

    Agreed on the engine feel/noise. Maybe the one piece front end has something to do with it. And for some reason the 03 has a lot of valvetrain noise too, more than the 97, and I already fixed the tensioner issue.

  • gregp_117gregp_117 Member Posts: 1
    I believe this is what it is called. My rear suspension stabilizer bar has come down from the car (just the ends where bolts go) and the two bolts have come out (while driving I suppose). The actual bar seems fine but I am not sure if two new bolts screw into the holders. Do I just need the bar to be held in place, (maybe with clamps)? Or should I get the whole thing replaced?
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    Better to replace the whole thing just in case,if there's a lot of rust undeer the car.Not sure clamps will work.Put it on a lift and look at the setup.Maybe new bolts will do.
  • bartbarterbartbarter Member Posts: 39
    If it's just surface rust replace the pins. I've heard them called many things but I believe the actual name is 'Stabilizer Bar Link'. That style pin fails all the time. You can probably get polyurethane replacements for less than $20 and the job is easy.

    While you're down there you might want to look at the 'Stabilizer Bar Bushings' too.

    This is not your car :) But the pin is similar, and it shows the job generically. It also shows the bushings:

    Good luck.
  • joebeachjoebeach Member Posts: 2
    I have a low mileage 1994 Lincoln and I get no clicking when I try to start. I have found by having the shift gear hard into the park position activated the interrupt and overcomes it not starting but now I want to find the actual starter solenoid on this car. So what is the LOCATION. You can give me trouble shooting techniques if you like but I want the LOCATION of the the starter solenoid.
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    Probably under the hood on the firewall or on the side mounted to one of the there a fuel pump cutoff switch in the trunk?cant remember if 90's vintage ha that or not. Make sure that's off too because the at wont start if its engaged.
  • bartbarterbartbarter Member Posts: 39

    On the 94 it's on the starter, they changed it in 90 iirc? But if it starts by slamming the gear selector into park I'd check my neutral start switch. You might be shaking something else in the steering column too.

    The starter can be hard to pull, if you take it out you might want to replace it.

  • joebeachjoebeach Member Posts: 2
    I finally got it to start with jumpers and when I run the engine at idle everything seems fine. when I rev it up I start getting interior lights changing brightness wildly if they are on and the air suspension light in the dash lights up and then goes out randomly and the battery charging symbol lights up and the goes out and the anti-lock brake symbol flashes. Note that I had charged the battery for several hours before I tried starting it with jumpers with no success. I can't see a bad battery causing these symptoms. As for the starter where is the starter? I don't have a lift, so can't get under the car to try to find it.:) Can the solenoid be reached from the top? Would like to clip on a remote starter switch if I can.
  • bartbarterbartbarter Member Posts: 39
    But it looks to me like you need to crawl under the car. I haven't had my 97 for a while and just don't remember.

    You've got interesting problems though. I'd at least start by going to a parts store and having them do an electrical test (free).
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    After horrible service at a Lincoln dealer,I've decided to tackle this myself. The recliner (back) part of my driver seat does not work.When I push the button I hear something but it doesn't move.The bottom does move,no issue with that part.Anybody have any ideas?2007 LINCOLN TOWN CAR SIG.LIMITED,34600 MILES.Thanks.
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Sometimes the switch contact points become corrorded & working the switch several times scrapes the corrosion away. Hopefully! :)
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    edited January 2013
    Hi. Thanks. I had a thought about the switch and tried to jiggle it,move it and otherwise just see if I could get it to do something.Didn't work.I brought it to the dealer and 371 dollars later it's the seat actuator.It's sitting at that dealer as I write this waiting for the part to come in to fix it. This is the one thing I don't think I've ever had happen to any of my Lincolns.
  • crftyldy003crftyldy003 Member Posts: 1
    Have 2004 Ultimate Towncar. Left low beam headlight won't come on. Have checked fuse and changed bulb. High beam works. Husband thinks ballist might need replaced. Expensive fix. Anyone have advice? Will appreciate any help.
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    If you are sure that the connections are clean and tight, then more than likely it is the ballast.
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    I was just looking on ebay for headlights and other stuff for my 07 t/c.You can buy a complete headlight set for 250 bucks.Also,any issues I ever had with headlights either involved the bulb or the actual switch in the car.However, I'm no mechanic,just a guy who's owned lots of Lincoln Town Car's.What is and where is the ballast located?
  • jmichael63jmichael63 Member Posts: 1
    I would imagine that those $250 headlamps have the halogen bulbs and not the H.I.D. headlamps which were optional and are much more expensive to replace. If your car has ballasts for the headlights, then you would have H.I.D headlamps. The Lincoln option code for these is 51H
  • yamaha007yamaha007 Member Posts: 1
    hi i have gearbox problem wil not drive forwards when in drive but will go backwards i have changed oil and filter
  • jerrym11jerrym11 Member Posts: 1
    Seems to be a lot of that going around. My recently acquired '97 TC has instrument cluster legibility problems as well. You have only to Google the problem to learn that there are scads of us out there. So here's my question: How does Ford get away with producing defective instrument clusters with obvious safety implications?
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    Well it could just be the age of the thing.I had a 91 a few years back that was starting to show signs of that condition.I was in the limo business in NYC for many years and never had any issues with the cluster,even after hundreds of thousands of miles.That was in the 80's and 90's though...I guess we're finding out what the life span of those things is.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    How does Ford get away with producing defective instrument clusters with obvious safety implications?

    Are you serious? You're actually whining because your 16 year old instrument cluster is failing? The whole car was made with a 10 year - 150,000 mile lifespan expectation! If you ask me, (and technically, you asked everybody), it has served you adequately. Cars need parts. It's the cost of owning one, and a part that fails after 16 years is not defective - your thinking is. Sorry.

    My cluster in my 4 year old Escalade failed. Now THAT may have been worth a complaint..... Give me a Lincoln that lasts that long anyday.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Six months ago I bought a certified '11 MKS ecoboost. I wanted to sell either my 95 T Bird or our 94 Sig. I sold the T Bird because the instrument cluster still works on the Lincoln. ;)
  • peachpie5254peachpie5254 FloridaMember Posts: 14
    I'm still driving mine and the trunk motor went out. A new one is $150. And most junk yards don't have used ones. If your latch is in the up position so your trunk lid is raised up but locked I worked a cheap fix that I'd like to share with everyone and it's very easy to do. You'll need a 7/16 socket or wrench, a phillips screwdriver and a 15T and 25T torex male socket to remove screws. Locate the two round plastic interior covering holders about 12" on either side and 6' down from the trunk latch. Pull out and remove to get access to the motor unit. Disconnect wire on your right from motor and undo three mounting bolts on on your left with the 7/16 socket and remove unit. Remove butterfly switch by inserting 15T torex into screw head and pull up switch to remove. You will not need to put this back. Use the phillips head to remove the two small screws at the top of the plastic housing. You will not need to replace them. Use the 25T to remove the two screws securing the metal plate that holds the motor assembly to the housing. You will not need to replace the motor. Pull out the motor and attached gear from the housing. Remove the latch from the upper plastic housing track behind the latch so you can turn the latch clockwise down most of the way into the housing. You can see thru the bottom of the housing to guide you. Then put latch into the upper housing guide and replace the metal plate and secure the unit to the trunk with the three bolt screws and 7/16 socket. Check to make sure it locks without slamming and the position of the lid is down far enough. It worked for me the first time. Now it works like a regular trunk. And I saved a $150. :)
  • rdavidadamsrdavidadams Member Posts: 4
    edited May 2013
    Car started to slow down, more gas pedal did not help, acted like no power and coughed and just kept going slower. Let it sit for several hours and it would go for about 1 3/4 hours. Town car with 5.0L 101,000 miles.
    Found plugged cat convert and replaced, no codes, same problem
    Replaced electronic ignition, pickup, rotor, cap, plugs and wires, (due for a tune up anyway), still same problem
    Replaced MAP sensor, has new fuel filter and pump already, pressure good. Now instead of no power at about and 1 1/2 hours of driving at 75 mph, it just shuts off. Shut off key then on and it starts right away and I can drive about a mile at 55 then it stops. At 65 I can go about 5 to 6 miles before it shuts down and it starts right up again. Heres the kicker at 70mph it runs and does not stop, about every 5 or 6 miles it has a hesitation but keeps going, at 75 miles an hour is stops every 5 or 6 miles again.
    Every mechanic gives me an idea they think is wrong and all i have done so far is change the problem and still cant drive more than 1 1/2 hours with out problems. Any ides on this? Thanks!
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    Bad injector/injectors...?
  • peachpie5254peachpie5254 FloridaMember Posts: 14
    I don't think it's fuel injectors but you could add a can of cleaner to the gas. The cheap- do you have a good ground connection? If the fuel pump is electric. Are you using cruise control when this happens? Try without. Check for any vacuum leaks. The expensive- replace computer. Keep us posted.
  • rdavidadamsrdavidadams Member Posts: 4
    Checked ok,Car runs perfect for 5 to 6 miles, then dies but starts right up again with no problems. They would have to all fail at same time and return to normal immeadiatley. I have wondered about the fuel pressure regulator. Not replaced it yet.
  • rdavidadamsrdavidadams Member Posts: 4
    Gas cleaner made no difference. Fuewl pump is new and electric, with new fuel filter as well. Does this with or without Cruise control. Ground connection I assumed was good, but going to go and check, clean and test that today. Just never thought of that. Cant find any vacuum leaks. It runs perfect for 5 to 6 miles or longer at 70 mph. ( at 70 it runs without stopping but it hiccups about every 5 to 6 miles) However at 75 the car stops every 5 to 6 miles again. I am looking at the computer and checking pricing etc. Just trying to eliminate everything else first.
  • bartbarterbartbarter Member Posts: 39
    When you say ignition, you have changed the module?
  • rdavidadamsrdavidadams Member Posts: 4
    new module, new sensors, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, MAP, Cat Converts,
  • bartbarterbartbarter Member Posts: 39
    Wish I could help. For 80s Panthers I would go to
  • 99salty99salty Member Posts: 6
    Steps to take before changing O2 sensor?
  • jtfloresjtflores Member Posts: 1
    The same phenomenon was happening to another to a different Ford model I owned. After changing all of the emissions you mentioned, it turned out the Fuel Pump was overheating on hot days and shutting down. Purchasing aftermarket fuel pumps was a waste of money and further confused the situation. Mechanics insisting it had to be OEM, I went to the junkyard and pulled a Ford fuel pump from a junker.... Shazam... the car has been working perfectly on the hottest of days!
  • vickiandyovickiandyo Member Posts: 2
    New here so any help would be much appreciated. Have a 2003 Lincoln TC that every once in awhile, the dash lights go out. They flicker on & off and if I hit the dash, they will pop back on. Its all the lights on the extreme left side of the panel, so I lose my odometer, digital speedometer etc. Has nothing to do with rain since it happens with or without it. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Member Posts: 160
    I had a similar issue years ago and it turned out to be the actual light switch.Replaced it and all was good.
  • vickiandyovickiandyo Member Posts: 2
    The light switch? Or the light control module?
  • mrsfixit24mrsfixit24 Member Posts: 1
    Did greasing the door switches solve the anti theft alarm problem?
  • ilovemytowncarilovemytowncar Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001Signature Town car with 49,000 miles..My problem is sometimes the car will not start. Check engine light does not come on .I shot starter spray through the air intake runs...The problem is sporadic....any advice is more then welcome for this problem...
  • gtragesergtrageser Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Lincoln town car. There is an intermittent vibration while driving. Not constant,  but just at times. Anyone ever had this problem or heard of this?
  • thematt396thematt396 Member Posts: 1
    Howdy. I have a 94 tc catier. Love it. 125000 on it. Now, when I hit a bump at over 15 mph there's a strange metallic clinging like a loose washer or something. Coming from front drive side by wheel. It's loud. Annoying. Can't stand it. But we can't find where it's coming from. Please help before I lose my mind. Thanks everyone.

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