Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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-You don't have your original dipstick.
-You don't have your original dipstick tube.
-The rebuilder jammed the dipstick tube in too far.
Here is my question: What is the minimum that I can get away with in terms of repair so that I won't feel and hear the rattling in the front end? Can I get away with just replacing the front sway bar bushings or the links, or both -- and just leave the rear alone? Will that have any noticeable effect? Or do I need to have everything done?
I ask this because I am imminently planning to buy a new car and was planning to trade in the Corolla towards the purchase. Obviously I don't want to spend $1,000 when I will soon be getting rid of it. But I also don't want the appearance of any major mechanical problems when I get it appraised by the dealer.
Thanks if you can answer this question, or direct it to someone who can.
On my Volvo, the front-end rattle is commonly a result of failed endlinks. They cost about $30 and take a half hour to install. (this could be a more difficult process on your Corolla, but I doubt it.)
Instead of a dealer, try an independent mechanic who knows Corollas. Ask if front endlinks will take care of the rattle and how much it will cost. Point out that you are trading the car in, so you want to do as little as possible.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I posted this to other boards in CIVIC with no replies. Hopefully, this board will get one:
I have to get my car smogged (I live in California) and need to clear a check engine light to do this.
I just spent over 780.00 on trying to get my check engine light to go out on my subj Civic. The final answer is "you have a bad computer" and to replace will cost 980.00. Well, if they ran diagnostics on it in the first place to correct a temperature Hi/Lo sensor and a transmission part (which makes the car run excellent now) how can that be. Now the answer is you need a new computer?
I own a car made in Japan, with a JHMED VIN...
it ststates on the computer:
37820-PM5-A550
601-139748
8 B
with a manufacture date of 87-12-24
It is a 1.5L engine with automatic transmission.
I bought this car new in 1988, it has over 178,000 miles, it drove me to 5 ships and 5 shore stations and will be featured in my retirement ceremony after I get to 25 yrs in the Navy. Everyone hates it but I loove it. It is my baby blue car!
Are there compatability issues with the computers, some folks tell me that any computer in that family will work (1988-1991). Is swapping this out easy to do; can I do it myself?
Happy Holidays!
Kevin, Senior Chief, Unitied States Navy
Well, tonight the temp is supposed to drop to 15-degrees Fahrenheit. I happened to remember the coolant heater and got my manual out, and it suggests using the heater when the temp drops below 0-degrees, and plugging it in for at least 4 hours.
So, my questions are 1) would I be okay to use the heater if outside temps are in the 15-20 degree range, and 2) if so, how long should I leave it plugged in?
I don't want to leave it plugged in all night if it might cause any damage to the car, but by the same token I don't want to go out an hour before and plug it in and have it make no difference...and I REALLY don't want to go outside at 3am to plug it in 4-hours before I leave!!
Suggestions?
Have you thought about hooking up an outdoor timer to the electrical cord?
If the coolant looks full up at the "cold" mark, then maybe the coolant float switch gets stuck once on a while.
I remember there was also a rule in the smog laws that you only had to spend a certain amount on your vehicle to make it smog exempt depending on the year of your car. That may have changed, but if it hasn't, you may have exceeded that amount already. Regardless, they should let you thru because of your service to our country.
Don
Oh well...I checked the weather here and it won't drop much below 30-degrees for the next two weeks, so if might be next year before I get a chance to actually see how well it works.
Also, you may want to have the runout checked on that wheel to see if it's vibrating while turning.
Of course it goes without saying that the torque used when the lugs are tightened could also be a factor.
I'd be talking to the dealer who installed the wheels rather than any blame for Cadillac. Aftermarket wheels are always a danger.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Jumping a completely dead battery like that is a no-no. It should always be brought back to life slowly over the course of a long overnight charge at low amperage.
Also never try to charge up a dead battery with your alternator.
I agree with the offset problem for the moment. That should be checked.
actually, if i could get it started with a new battery, i'd probably bring it right on over to an autozone or other auto parts store that has one of those battery / alternator testers. you might have a bad alternator...
The jumper cables were most likely inadequate to carry the high current from the good battery to the dead one and overheated. Remember that a charged battery can output hundreds of amps and if the dead battery was real low it will try to put as much current into it as it can. In this situation the resistance in the cables becomes a factor and they get hot fast.
As Shifty said you shouldn't jump real low or completely dead battery. Use the battery charger and let it charge slow.
If the battery keeps going dead and it tests good, look for a constant drain in the electrical system of the Vette, or a bad charging system.
We don't connect a jumper to the motor ground and then the positive to the battery because that will give a spark on the battery.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks so much! This is supposed to be a Hanukkah gift for my husband but due to my procrastination it is going to be more like a New Year’s gift!
So you were driving when it happened and then what? Were you able to drive the rest of your trip without incident, but then once it was shut off it won't start again? What exactly is it doing? Is it cranking but just not kicking over?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
the long answer / suggestion is a bit involved, depending on you experience working on vehicles... these are only suggestions which i have, other's may have other suggestions for you. read them and see if they make sense.
verify the battery terminals are clean and connected to the battery very firmly. you can clean the battery posts and terminals. to un-install the terminals, you would remove the battery terminal from the negative post (-) of the battery first. second, you remove the positive (+) terminal (often colored red with a rubber or plastic covering).
later, when your work is done, when re-attaching the terminals to the battery, you reverse the process and you re-install the positive (+) terminal first, and the negative (-) or ground second.
removing and re-installing the terminals to the battery in this order reduces the likelyhood of allowing current from the battery to flow through your body, and potential electric shock. you see, your body can complete the circuit between the + and - legs of the battery. if the negative leg of the battery is connected to the vehicle body (in most vehicles, this is the case) and if a part of your body (a hand or leg) is in contact with the car frame (often it is when working on a car) and you touch the positive leg of the battery with your hand, or your hand and a wrench with un-insulated grips, current will flow.
disconnecting the negative (-) terminal from the battery means the only way for current to flow would be for you to physically touch the (-) post of the battery and the (+) post of the battery at the same time, and you're not likely to do that now are you?
ok, this is important- since your vehicle may have some anti-theft feature with special code for the radio (and a special procedure to re-initialize the radio with the code following battery re-installation)... you might want to skip the step of removing the terminals, specially if you are uncertain about this...
i write this as a pre-caution. it's possible, because of an electrical issue, your radio is going to need re-initialization anyway at this point. if it were me, i suppose i'd assume the radio code will have to be re-entered at this point. you'll have to make the decision.
now you can still clean up the terminals and make sure they are tight to the battery. just make sure you aren't using a wrench on the (+) post of the battery, with the (-) strap still attached AND your body making contact with the body of the car somewhere...
i hope i haven't scared you or confused you. if i have, i apologize.
you should make sure the negative battery strap going from the (-) post of the battery to the body / frame of the vehicle is connected to the frame firmly.
you can also check in the area of the positive (+) battery terminal to see if there is a main fuse which may have blown or become loose. use an appropriate plastic fuse puller / installation tool (often manufacturers include one in the fuse compartment in the engine area). this is the sort of thing i'd do with the negative terminal / strap from the battery removed first.
qbrozen suggests a possible spike. that's possible i suppose, maybe your alternator's voltage governor (typically i think they are some diodes) may be defective and the alternator put out too large of a voltage.
or maybe you have a ground somewhere which literally shorted the positive and negative of the battery. was it raining at the time?
or maybe you have a faulty ignition switch. when you turn the switch now to the accessory position, do you see lights on the dash? can you wiggle the switch and get the lights on the dash to come on?
i hope this helps you. good luck.
The 12 volts (12.6 actually) of a car battery will not give you a shock. It's the same as holding both terminals of a 9 volt battery, e.g. You will not be shocked; you will not be affected by a 12 volt differential flowing through your body. It requiers much higher voltage to be perceptible.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
people think it is voltage that kills you, but in reality it is the current, and generally the path it takes through the body, the worst of two paths is either across the heart, or across the brain.
just 1mA (1.0E-3amps) can be felt. 10mA (1.0E-2amps) can cause muscle contractions to the point it makes it difficult to impossible to let go. 100mA (1.0E-1amps) is enough to change the rythm of your heart, put you into defib and kill you.
do not believe it is solely or primarily the voltage that has the potential to kill you please. :sick:
don't believe me; ok by me; google it.
the body is a pretty good conductor because of water and salinity. its resistance though will be a function of what part of the body makes contact, how much of the body is contacting, if you are sweating, etc. etc.
i believe the precautionary remarks are warrented.
as for the 9V transistor battery, imidazol97 - here's an experiment just for you to try: please pull one out of your fire detector or clock-radio and stick your tongue on it. lemme know what you discover. :surprise:
but i don't disagree with the potential for the ignition system to shock you. as it being the only device in your vehicle capable of hurting/shocking you, i have a different opinion.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If someone without basic knowledge of electricity starts 'touching' both his battery posts (or the positive post and a good ground on the auto), and happens to touch a post with a ring or metal watch band, that person could have a finger totally burned off or significant skin, muscle, and nerve damage with resulting scaring.
You've got only 12 volts, but a large amperage available in a auto battery. With a low resistance path (metal), a large amount of energy can be discharged in a fraction of a second which will convert to heat and a big burn.
"removing and re-installing the terminals to the battery in this order reduces the likelyhood of allowing current from the battery to flow through your body, and potential electric shock."
Obviously you don't connect screwdrivers, wrenches, etc., across battery terminals unless you wish to create a short circuit.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
you mean this wasn't a common thing to do for EVERY kid? I was probably around 3 or 4 years old when my older brother introduced me to the joys of licking a 9-volt. Considering it did no damage or even make me cry, for that matter, I don't think an adult will be bothered much at all.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
i'm not proud.
anyway - people have died from electric shock where the voltage source was far less than you get from a wall outlet.
A modern ignition system could actually kill an older person. Not me, however. I'm always the one in the driver's seat when someone under the hood shouts "Okay, try it now!"