Got a Quick, Technical Question?

imidazol97

The diesel was put into the underground storage tank by the delivery truck driver. It wasn't a case of the motorist pumping from the wrong above ground pump.

The mistake then was made by the trucking company. I assume they have liability insurance or the distributor covers them for errors in placing the fuel when delivered to the station.

I wouldn't want to be that driver that put it in the wrong opening. I wouldn't even want to drive one of those tanker trucks. I always figured they carried some firepower in their cab in case of attempted hijacking. I wonder if the trucks have some kinds of trouble signals that are sent to the home office in case of problems when driving $100,000 worth of fuel? Am I in the right range?

A Speedway station north of the city had a bad delivery a few years back. A motorist called the Car Repair show on radio the next morning. His car was still at the station along with several others. His died before he got off the lot and he was filling up while the truck was dumping>>>

IIRC the mechanic recommended a lot of taking apart and replacing some things because of diesel contamination.

engine28

I need info on what to do i have a 1999 ford escort with a check engine light on with a code of po 401 insufficient flow to the egr valve replaced every part that has to do with that. I'm open to any and all suggestions. :mad:

qbrozen

If I do infact end up striping them, what is the best method of recovery? 1)New manifold. 2)Heli-coil insert 3) weld a nut with the same thread over the old opening?

Helicoil would be your best bet. Replacing the manifold would be the most time-consuming and expensive, of course. Welding a new nut might screw up the readings of the O2 sensor (since it would no longer sit in the manifold at the same depth).

georgem404

i replaced the radiator on my '97 ford explorer.....it went very well....no problems.......do i need to do anything special when refilling the system (air issues etc?.......also when i disconected the 2 fittings (connected to tubing, a reddish fluid dripped out, not the green coolant....is there something else going through the radiator? and do i have to add a fluid other than coolant.....thanks for your help

Mr_Shiftright

red fluid--that's transmission fluid. Your transmission is cooled through the radiator, in a separate, lower tank.

georgem404

thanks, i knew i was missing something........i guess i should check the transmission fluid level after everything is up and running........any special considerations when refilling the radiador with coolant....again, thanks for your help

engine28

what would cause an overspeed error on the iac valve.

suvshopper4

Just use the right coolant as specified by the mfr, mixed 50/50 with water (generally), and let the system 'burp' (then add additional coolant as needed) after it heats up to operating temp, but before you drive away from home (so that you avoid a roadside pullover).

georgem404

thanks for the info.....it's nice to have a place to ask questions

snevets23

On 1/31/07 while slowly reversing up a sloped driveway, my 1992 Lexus 400SC suddenly accelerated rapidly and uncontrollably. It felt as if I was in a rocket ship! Although I slammed on the brakes, I could not stop in time to avoid a car parked in the driveway. Luckily, there were no injuries (grandson was in car). This is my first accident in 42 years. While I hear that some conclude that I mistook the accelerator for the brake, I KNOW that's not true. My foot was on the accelerator to begin with since I was slowing giving the car gas to climb the incline. Weather conditions were clear, no obstacles on the floor, and I was wearing normal shoes... no boots or heels. This accident was NOT my fault, but I don't know how to prove this since the problem is intermittent. I have filed an incident report with both the police department and NHTSA and have sent a certified letter to Lexus in CA. However, there is strength in numbers and need to hear from others who have experienced this frightening experience. From researching on the web, I see that some "experts" conclude that the problem is allegedly caused by a defective electronic throttle control system; however, I would be interested on your feedback concerning this potentially fatal timebomb. Thank you.

burdawg

Of course an electronic malfunction is always possible, but sadly these incidents are almost always attributed to driver error or panic. If you convert the braking power of your car to horsepower, you will find that the brakes are 3-5 times more powerful than the engine in most cases.
Perhaps someone else can chime in here with knowledge of this specific year model, but I'm not sure that a Lexus that old has electronic throttle control.

Mr_Shiftright

Yeah it does.

However, it still has a mechanical linkeage for the air intake. I don't recall but I don't think any car has a completely electronic throttle.

Most common reasons for sudden acceleration are:

1. Driver mistakes one pedal for another
2. Driver accidentally 'double pedals' and has foot both on gas and brake
3. Throttle gets stuck--does not release when driver removes foot from gas pedal. This feels like a 'sudden acceleration' issue because one expects the gas pedal to release when you lift your foot.

Despite some theoretical studies that show sudden acceleration to be possible (on paper at least) I've never read or seen this proven by anyone in real life.

Yes, the brakes will almost always be able to stop a car but the stopping distance might be longer with a stuck throttle. The engine can't overpower the brakes (a car stops faster 60-0 than it accelerates 0-60, in other words).

Still, experiences like this are pretty upsetting regardless of their cause.

I have no idea if it is theoretically possible for a drive by wire throttle control to get "stuck", that is, fail to register a closed throttle reading...that's one for the engineers. Seems to me that anything that has a partial mechanical component, such as for air supply, could get stuck. BUT....it couldn't get stuck past its original set point dictated by the driver's foot.

That's not quite the same as 'sudden acceleration", of course, which imiplies that the gas applies by itself without the driver's foot and that the car cannot be stopped. That seems implausible to me, as one would need both simultaneously failures of the electronics and the brake system.

But a sticking air throttle that works with an electronic gas pedal, that is, one that fails to return the gas pedal to the 'off" position----well, that seems possible at least.

rpalais

Hello! I own a MINT 2002 Acura RSX-Type-S. I recently purchased a set of slightly used JDM Acura Type-R take out cams to be installed in my K-20 motor in my car that I need to do before installing the Jackson Racing Street Supercharging System that I also purchased for this vehicle. These cams, I am told, are worth an additional 20 HP and 15 ft. pounds of TQ above the existing No. American model cams presently in my motor. My mechanic/technician who will be doing the work for me, says he prefers to have the cam card specs and then he wants to degree in the cams as well. I agree with his thinking as I know this really is the best way to do the job. I have searched all over the place, and I can not find ANYTHING at all about these JDM cams. Can anyone out there help me by either providing me with the cam specs, or telling me where I can find this info out? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you!! Rich

yanker

We own a Family heirloom 1997 CAMRY 4 WITH 101000. IT HAS BEEN THROWING A MODEST AMOUNT OF SMOKE FOR SOME TIME AND i HAVE BEEN DOCTORING WITH STP SMOKE TREATMENT WHICH SEEMS TO WORK. MY QUESTION IS WHAT TO DO WHEN IT GETS WORSE. THE CAR IS 400 MILES AWAY AND SITS OUT MOST OF THE TIME. i DO NOT THINK IT IS A SLUDGE PROBLEM AS THE OIL HAS BEEN CHANGED REGU.ARLY FOR 800000 MILES. bEFORE THAT I DON'T KNOW AS IT WAS USED IN 1997 wHAT ARE THE POTENTIAL PROBLEMS AND HOW MUCH WILL IT COST

Mr_Shiftright

Well first of all stop using STP, that will only make any problem worse. Change your oil and filter as soon as you can and get that stuff out of your engine.

As for the smoke, it could be a lot of things. The best way to test for sludge is to pop off a valve cover. If you see a kind of gunky gray mass of thick gooey stuff, you got sludge.

If the engine is clean inside, a smoking engine could be from worn piston rings, or, more likely, worn valve stem seals or worn valve guides.

You get smoke because oil is being burned in the combustion chambers, and the only way it can get there is to either by-pass the piston rings (worn rings, or sludge) or leak down through the top of the engine past valve stem seals or worn guides (also possible that valve stem seals can be attacked by sludge).

A test called a "cylinder leakdown test" should be performed after you've examined the engine for sludge. Then you'll know for SURE what's going on.

yanker

I have been using the stuff for several years. I talked with Toyotas abou tthe law suit and They said I am not eligible because we had the oil changed over the years. But the car was used and had 24000 on it in 1998 and program that checks cars said it was owned by a rental company in Washington DC I will check for sludge next time I'm in Boston where the car is located Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

All STP does is gum everything up. If you've ever had to break an engine down that used it extensively, you'd see that it's not pretty in there.

However, it is good for engine building...I used to mix a little bit of it up with oil and dip engine bearings in it before assembly...that way I knew that oil flow was nearly impossible off the bearing. :P

user777

shifty, with a cable-linked system, can't the cable get caught up in the cable enclosure?

also, in a fully electric DBW system, if i'm not mistaken it is a servo motor that positions the throttle valve based on command and position feedback. there's still opportunity for mechanical binding, or electrical problems causing the throttle to fail to close.

back to the poster's problem, i could see a mechanical throttle binding because of the cable linkage binding. or how about the floor carpet slipping and depressing the accelerator. wasn't there a toyota recall not long ago for a problem with floor mats and the accelerator?

back to DBW, didn't one poster claim their vehicle did not accelerate when they pressed on the accelerator in the parking lot, then all of a sudden took off and they hit a curb or another car?

i'm with you on confusing the brake and the accelerator. i did that in a jeep laredo myself once. but, i think there are some other scenarios both dbw- and non-dbw possible.

Mr_Shiftright

I guess the only scenario that I absolutely don't believe is that the driver could be pressing hard on the brake and the vehicle is still accelerating.

snevets23

Again, I just want to emphasize that since I was proceding up an incline in reverse, my foot was NOT on the brake, but slowly depressing on the accelerator to give the car enough gas to reach the top. That is when the car bolted backwards at an excessive high speed. It wasn't a scenerio of confusing the accelerator for the brake--since I didn't need to brake while climbing the incline. Once the brakes were applied, they worked fine but, because of the excessive speed, not in time to avoid hitting the parked car in the driveway. I hope this clarification helps.

snevets23
snevets

user777

it helps me.

first impression was the possibility of a slipping floor mat moving forward and depressing on the accelerator.

i would have the mat, pedal, cable, and throttle body assembly all checked out.

Mr_Shiftright

Yeah the throttle also has to give "resistance" to your foot and that might be spring-related. And definitely check the pedal for snags.

Your post was clear, I didn't think you had hit the brake.

bolivar

Floormat.

ryan77300d

If one were to park thier car in the garage, and then plug in the block heater with an engine that's already at operating temperature, could the block heater be damaged/burn out?

The reason I ask is because I'm 17, and come home fairly late on weekends, and I need to plug my car in at night (it's around -25C here). The problem being that I don't want to have to wait until 2-3am for the engine to cool down so I can plug in the block heater and have it ready for the next morning. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

-Ryan

Mr_Shiftright

Yeah...just buy an automatic timer for the block heater and set it to start the heater at least 2 hours before you plan to leave.

That gives more life to the heater and saves you a LOT of electricity. If you plug in when you get home you'll spend more on electricity than you did for the heater.

user777

i would add the following pre-cautions which you should take seriously here:

determine the current requirement (in AMPS) of the block heater. if you are using an extension cord with the heater (and i would hope this would not be necessary, but not owning one, i don't know how much current they use), make sure it is rated to handle the current needed by the heater! if it doesn't use an extension, then you are good to go on that score.

secondly, and just as important, make sure the automatic timer is rated to be able to handle the current needed by the heater! just like extension cords - they are not all created equal with regards to how much current they will carry safely without heating and failing and possibly creating a fire. some of these timers will switch the current used by a lamp fixture with 60-100W bulb, some a coffee maker. some a heavy load.

garage fires are uncool.

Mr_Shiftright

Great advice. I was thinking of a timer that is made specifically for the engine heater. And yes again, no $1.29 extension cords!!

andysd

I'm tempted to install Eibach lowering springs on my '04 Civic EX automatic sedan. It takes fast curves nicely, but feels likes it's too high. (Since I'm not racing, am happy with the shocks and the tires.)

Would this create problems? Would I need a two- or four-wheel alignment?

I've done this on my '99 Z28 and '99 Boxster to good effect (in these cases also with new Bilstein shocks, which I don't plan for the Civic).

jrolf

does anyone know how to change the front coil springs on a 1998 ford Taurus? :confuse:

Mr_Shiftright

Depends how much the springs lower the car. If it's more than say 2" max, you'll pound your stock struts to death, so you'll need springs AND special new struts. But if less than that, I think you'll be fine with stock suspension.

Yeah, probably an alignment is a good idea, because you might also be able to tweak the settings to give you even better handling.

andysd

Thanks, Mr Shiftright. Eibach Pro Kit springs lower by one inch (below). Not too expensive at $264. I'll call a good Honda shop I know for an estimate and their thought on alignment.

2004 Honda Civic
Coil Springs
Brand: Eibach

EIBACH PRO KIT, LOWERING COIL SPRINGS, SOLD IN SET OF 4 -- Front With 1" Drop, Rear With 1" Drop, Progressive Spring Design, Provides Excellent Ride Quality And High Performance Handling With A Lowered Center Of Gravity, Installs Using Original Factory Mounting Points, Backed By A Manufacturers Million Mile Warranty

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405114 $263.95

blazer_man

If you aren't sure on how to change them yourself, than I strongly advise you take the vehicle to a trained tech. In order to change them it requires removing the struts and use of a spring compressor. After they have been replaced the vehicle will need to be aligned.

toomanyfumes

I posted a few weeks ago about front end noise on my 1995 Thunderbird. I did take it to a front end shop. The ball joint on the left side needs replacement (the technician wiggled the bottom of the wheel and you could hear the knock) He told me the upper and lower ball joints needed to be replaced. He also said the ball joint was part of the control arm and the whole assembly needed to be replaced. $500 for one side. I see that I can buy just the ball joint itself and my Hayne's manual says it can be pressed in or out. Anyone have experience with this type of vehicle? Thanks for any assistance.

Mr_Shiftright

You don't test ball joints by wiggling the wheel. You test them by placing a jack under the assembly and measuring the free play in the ball joints. That "knock" could be anything.

If that's the best they can do, go to another shop and watch how they do it. They should be glad to show you the free play in the ball joint.

toomanyfumes

He had it on the hoist and he had another jack undeneath the front end so i'm assuming he used that to check it. It would have been nice,though if he would have shown me. I didn't get a good feeling from the place, anyway so I'm going to take it to an independent guy who's done some work for me in the past.

Mr_Shiftright

Good idea. A little free play in the ball joints is okay...you know a 1/16th of an inch, maybe up to 1/8th.

mlk3

I just picked up this car today but did not take into account my husband's long legs. Is there an easy way to have the seats go back further? I know with the Honda Fit there is a forum where they talk about seat track extenders. Can't find any specific info on the Civic or Civic Hybrid. Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright

it's tough to do because no shop or manufacturer wants the liabilities of modifying your seat tracks in some kind of "home-made" fashion. I'd like to do the same on my car but haven't found a solution yet other than installing a whole new set of seats with their own track system. it would be great if you could buy professionally designed new tracks that bolt in just like the old ones---by that I mean, into the re-inforced holes in the floor where they should be.

Just drilling new holes somewhere in the floorpan sounds dangerous to me--they'd rip right out in a collision.

mlk3

Thank you much for your reply. When I first wrote, I did not realize that the driver's seat goes back much farther than the passenger side. Mr. Long legs does just fine when driving. It will take a longish trip to see how he will do in the passenger side.

I agree with you, though; I don't want to do anything that would make the car unsafe. Thanks again.

smithsonga

Everyone

I searched and could not find this question answered. I have a 2003 Yukon Denali and change my own oil. (I use Mobil 1 and wont spend what oil change places charge for synthetic oil).

I have been told but wanted to verify that this truck does NOT need chassis lubrication. I see a few zerk fittings, but no information on chassis lube. I could do this if the known locations are 'known'.

Anyone have this service manual or know the details? Denali has the AWD, 6.0L engine etc..etc..

thx
Jim

bolivar

1)If I saw a jerk fitting, I would lube it. If the fitting is into a rubber 'boot' fitting, CAREFULLY lube it and do not blow out the boot.

2)Read the owners manual. It 'might' show the lube points. Some do not, thinking this is beyond the average owner.

3)Read the owners manual. The maintenance schedule, carefully. If there are lube points, the maintenance schedule WILL tell you when (time and milage) the recommended schedule is for maintenance.

imidazol97

If you like knowing about your car and reading about things, I recommend the Helm FActory Service manuals. They print the GM service manuals.

HelmInc Yukon

If you've got the $135, it'll seem money well spent after you look up how a couple of things are service or are put together. Sometimes you can find these on the net on auction sites.

fullcircuit

I just bought a used Chevy Express 1 ton box van. I noticed water dripping out the exhaust. There is a small hole in the muffler just where it meets the exhaust pipe where it drops as well. What are the possibilities?
thanks
fullcicuit

qbrozen

if it is just water, then it is just condensation. totally normal.

Mr_Shiftright

You get about 1 quart of water for every gallon of gas you burn. If you do short trips sometimes the water will trap in the low spots in the exhaust system and rot it out.

rheric

Just put a new battery in a 2000 Subaru Impreza (cold finally killed the old one...). Started up fine, no weird lights on the dash...BUT the lights keep blinking on and off. Hazard lights and the dash, 30 times and then a pause, then another 30 times, over and over.

Any ideas? I'd hate to kill yet ANOTHER battery. Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright

Bad relay somewhere I'd guess.

rheric

My guess is that this is not something I can fix myself. Is that true?

Thanks for the quick reply, it is very much appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright

Well I wonder if you can listen for that relay going nuts under the dash or wherever it is...if the lights are flashing off and on you should be able to hear that relay working...

I dunno...it's such a weird problem I'm just groping here for a possible answer...

Basically, relay are heavy duty switches, used to operate those devices that draw heavy current...so a small delicate switch (say, your dashboard or stalk headlight switch) is used to trip a much heavier duty switch (the relay) and IT works your headlights.

qbrozen

wait wait wait.... this is bringing back a memory. Something about this on my wife's '98 subie when I replaced the battery. It is some sort of security feature.

ugh... but I don't remember what I did to fix it!

AHHH!! internet search. The little button under the dash is what I did!

You have keyless entry if you cycle the keyless remote several times it will stop the parking lights from flashing. If that doesnt work or you dont have a remote there is a little black button on two small brown wires depress this button then turn the key on and wait about 5 or 10 seconds the keyless entry will cycle and the ligths will go out. This littel black button usually sits on teh lower dash panel on Foresters however they get knocked loose or even broken and you will have to look for the button hanging somewherre under the dashe it may even be burried behind the black control unit that abotu 4 inches by 6 inches wire tired to the left kickpanel area above the fuse box