I've actually posted a similar msg about a month ago with no response..hoping for a 2nd time others may have heard of this problem..
I have a 2007 rabbit with 3,100 miles on it that has had 3 out-of-round tires in the same location - drivers side front. Each time that the tire was found to be defective all other tires were checked to make sure they weren't out of round; and still has only been in that same location. After 2nd brand new tire I took in my car to dealer. Dealer found nothing mechanical...however they thought it was unusual. Now this is my 3rd out-of-round tire and I will be taking in my car again. Has anyone ever heard of this being a problem on the rabbit/golf? It seems it takes a few weeks after getting new tire for it to become out-of-round, so i find it difficult dealer doesn't see anything mechanical. It is really bothersome, considering it makes my overall driving experience really unpleasant. I would appreciate any feedback to this very annoying problem.
They should check the hub and the rim for out of roundness and then re-mount the tire to counterbalance, if possible, the high spots of run-out on the hub and the rim with the low spots of run-out on the tire itself.
If an acceptable level of run-out can't be achieved, then the hub or the rim needs replacing.
What exactly do you mean by out of round? A low spot forming on the tread of the tire or extreme wear on the outer edges of the tread? Or just a general low spot forming in the tire?
i presume since there were three new tires involved all exhibiting the same behavior, what they (shifty and poster) mean is that the radius from the center of the hub of the rim to the furthest extent of the center-line of the tire's tread, i.e. along the tire's circumference is just not uniform.
seem's to me, it's probably the rim which is "out-of-round".
an easy way to see this is to dismount the tire and roll the rim on a very flat surface. if it's out of round, it will be pretty obvious.
Or a combination of rim out of round and tire out of round and hub out of round. If all three were not straight, and you mounted all three in such a way as to amplify the "high" side of each one's problem, then you'd really have a problem.
But if you mounted the high side of the "bent" rim to the low side of the 'bent" hub and put on a straight tire, there you go, no more out of round.
I don't think it's possible to "make" a once-straight and once-mounted tire GO out of round unless you deliberately shaved it somehow. If it is, it's news to me.
actually, i believe it is possible. if you have a suspension problem, it's possible to introduce "cupping". when it starts, it just generally gets worse.
I thought about "cupping" but that's kind of (in my mind) different, in that you have this conspicuous display of tire wear that tips you off right away...I thought, from reading his post, that he was referring to "run out" which means a tire that's actually irregular on the sidewall. In cupping, it's irregular on the tread.
If if he WAS referring to irregular tread pattern wear, then you are absolutely right.
The info I took from "out-of-round" was a low spot in tire. The dealer did check to make sure the rim wasn't out of round, and checked the hub and all bearings, etc. According to them it was all perfect with a car with that low of mileage..
I'm taking in the car again next week to see if maybe they overlooked something, or possibly they have techs that aren't very experienced..
That is one thing I didn't specifically ask the dealer is if they checked the suspension..and it's highly possibly they didn't. I will be sure to ask them that when I bring in the car again next week...
I appreciate all the feedback I've received...all suggestions help me to ask the dealer the right questions..
I agree with user777. If there are low spots (worn tread spots) in the tire, then it is pretty likely that the strut or shock to that tire is worn out and is allowing that tire to "hop".
i have the same problem and cannot figure it out i changed the fuel filter fuel pressure regulater and nothing, The only way to turn it back on it to cut out the fuel supply for a couple of seconds, so i apply pressure to the fuel line and it turns back on and runs good, i have not found the problem yet. My truck is a 1995
I swear my 99 Mazda Millenia used to have a spring loaded trapdoor under the gas cap (the pumps nozzle would push it open when fueling). The reason I ask is my Check Engine light is on and I'm wondering if that could be it. Anyone ever lost one of those things and is it owner repairable?
i don't think a filler "trap door" (?) is going to throw a CEL. that's just an uneducated opinion, but it's the tightness of the CAP and the filler neck that allows the system to perform the appropriate pressure check.
ever see one of the emissions stations hook their CAP to a sensing tube? they are checking the CAP for proper operation. they don't hook their sensing tube to the filler neck...
if anything, it probably went down the filler tube and is sitting in the tube or tank. if it's in the tube, i suppose it could be fixable (take it out and replace with new neck, but am not sure. Did you try looking with a flashlight or feeling with your finger to see if the "door" is still there, just no longer spring loaded?
my suggestion would be to bring your car to a parts store. many will read codes for free, and you go from there. you're just guessing what the CEL could be caused by.
i would say, if your GAS CAP were broken / leaking, then yeah, that could cause the car to throw a CEL. that's pretty easy to replace.
but without knowing the codes and googling, you're pretty much in unknown / guessing territory.
Problem wasn't fully solved but it is now. Idle acted up only 1 in 5 times for a few weeks and then got worse again. Went to Azone yesterday and got a new MAF sensor and codes erased. All problems gone again, all lights staying off. With vac leak plugging, mileage was 27.5 for last 1100 miles prior to getting the new MAF. I am expecting close to 30 mpg mixed starting today. If I had replaced MAF in sept when I first had problems, I could have saved a couple hundred in gas, but I probably would not have found the bad TB gasket and all the other small vac leaks.
My missing trap door problem is alieved! I took your advice and lit a match so's I could see down the filler tube. My kind Doctor is typing this reply.
Just kidding of course!
The little trap door down the fuel filler neck is definitely missing though.
Forgetting the CEL then, what purpose does that trap-door serve? We checked my buddies Mini-Van and he's got one too.
Guessing: keeps out dust / dirt / contaminants when the cap is off, and while the unleaded fuel fill nozzle isn't inserted and in the act of filling the vehicle's tank. Also serves as a barrier for the insertion of a Leaded Fuel filler nozzle.
My car just started having a problem a couple of weeks ago. It starts right up, then about 50% of the time it dies. I start it a 2nd time and it is usually fine, but once it a while it takes 3 tries. Also, last night on my way home, I heard kind of a pop noise & the display on the radio, got really bright, then a few minutes later, another pop, the display went back to normal. This continued on evey few minutes of my 40 minute commute. My frist thought was regulator, but I just replaced the Altinator a couple of months ago & the regulator is attached... any suggestions? :confuse:
I just had new break pads and rotors put in my 2001 VW Jetta. A week later, the front break pad worn light started to display (permanently) on my dashboard. I brought it back to the dealership who did the break job and they said that the sensor wire broke away from the pad and that they only way to fix this would be to buy/replace the pads. What would cause the wire to break away on new pads and is there anything I can do to get rid of the warning light without replacing the pads?
That's suppose to be part of the brake job. They are supposed to replace the sensors and check the wiring. I'm also puzzled why the pads need replacing? Or if there's an explanation for the pads needing replacing, why YOU would have to pay for them? I could see charging you for fixing the wire but not for the pads, unless I"m missing something here.
Since the sensor is part of the brake pad and you paid for good working brake pads, then they should warranty the pads. If the wire was secured properly, then it shouldn't have broken.
Unfortunately, the sensor that the wire goes to is part of the brake pads, so the pad will have to be replced, but regardless of how the wire got broke (which is how I bet they are trying to get out of warrantying it), it should be covered under warranty, unless they were using really cheap parts.
you seem bothered when it is an easy response without me listing which engine
but i'm game: it's a 2.5 L engine --- if i thought it mattered i would have listed it, and i also thought this is the standard engine and the response would be for the standard engine unless was otherwise stated by the poster
Ok, I'll play. Let me make this clear......... When you answer posts for people and you need information, like which engine and they seem to not be interested in posting that information, tell me why I should bother to help anymore.
you seem bothered when it is an easy response without me listing which engine Yes, I am bothered when folks seem to think our crystal ball will tell us all the information that they so frequently leave out. Have you any idea of how many times we (people helping) have posted that we need that information? Then to have someone like you take offense to it?? How dare I question you? Good grief.
if i thought it mattered i would have listed it, and i also thought this is the standard engine and the response would be for the standard engine unless was otherwise stated by the poster Don't be dense. I showed you very clearly that the information makes a difference. There is no STANDARD engines anymore. A lot of satandard base models will come with several engines.
But what do I know? Nothing I guess. You seem to be the expert. Not sure why you were asking.
perhaps you were making a meta comment on the tail end of the assistance you were providing the poster, intended for everyone. you no doubt have the knowlege and expertise to help many if they provide more exacting information.
makes sense.
the problem is your reply came off condescending, like you were putting the poster down for not framing the question in the exact manner which would get him a reply of value. in this case, you could have left the latter part of the response off. it's not likely most people would think there'd be a difference which would matter. but when trying to educate, a simple statement of the fact coupled with the two pieces you provided would be of help to the original posters and others.
this is unfortunate because the information you supplied was high value. but the method of delivery?
lemme ask you - do you think you needed the follow-up? he got your point. no need to put him down several times more to drive it well past home. it just makes you look bad. way over the top. :sick:
Now boys....there are two sides to this argument....while the original poster may be correct that the engine size is "assumed", part of that is because he owns the car.
Someone like OPatience sees every type of car and it's impossible to have all engine and transmission options at one's fingertips.
Given the fee OPatience charges and the level of expertise he offers, I see no harm in indulging his fantasies and giving him the amount of air in each tire if that's what he feels he needs.
We're all interesting in getting to the right answer, so why not shake hands, wipe the blackboard clean and just solve the problem?
Never wished to imply otherwise! Sorry if you took it in some unintended way. Bad choice of words perhaps on my part. Just trying to keep the place welcoming for everyone.
Great! Here goes. I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 - 5 speed that I bought 4 years ago (march 2003). It only had 42k miles on it when I bought it. This is my first Jeep to own and I really didn't know what to expect. It has never had great power since I bought it. I thought it would have more power and shortly after I bought it I carried it to a mechanic that did a tune up on it (plugs, wires, cap & rotor). It still had no more power than before the tune up. It runs great, no misses, no surges, it just simply does not have the power I expected. It now has 92K miles and is still running the same as the day I bought it. I have put a K&N filter on it and it helped some but not much. After talking with a friend that has a Jeep he said it should have alot more power than it does. On the hiway top speed is about 75 mph going down hill. Going up hill it will lose 10-15 mph from bottom to top. If i'm running 70 and hit a hill it will drop to between 55-60 by the time I get to the top. Any suggestions as to what could be wrong or is the normal for a Jeep Wrangler?
1. Do a compression test to make sure we have a full deck.
2. If #1 is okay, I'd temporarily remove the catalytic converter by using a "test pipe" and see how the vehicle performs. If there's dramatic improvement, your catalytic is clogged or damaged.
3. Oh I forgot. If you can, try to drive a similar Jeep and see what's up.
well, you've been driving it for 50k miles this way, so i kind of doubt the catalytic is clogged (but i certainly could be wrong). I think it would have caught fire by now or something. If it runs smooth and passed inspection, I would also think all cylinders are firing.
Now ... this will be a silly question, but I gotta ask it. You're SURE its not the 4-cyl model, right??
I've got another really silly idea. I'd check to make sure the ring and pinion hasn't been swapped out. I can't say why someone would do it or even what you might put in there to get such horrible results, but it just sounds to me like your problem ain't in the engine. At 75 mph downhill on the highway, what RPMs are you turning in 5th gear?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Just shooting in the dark here, but could it be possible that you are not getting enough fuel (partially clogged filter, weak pump) or air flow (blockage)?
You don't have a parking brake sticking, do you? I would have thought you'd totally wear that out if you did.
I'm getting pleanty of gas. I replaced the original air filter with a K&N filter kit that came with a new snorkel tube. I checked the parking brake and everything is good there.
The air conditioner, power windows keep going out while driving intermitantly. After stopping the car and shutting it off for a while all works well. I have checked the fuses and ground wires and all seem ok. Any other ideas would be helpful!
Good grief! The guy with obviously the most technical knowledge posting on the board, and you **** him off!
And, back to the original poster about when to change your timing belt: 1) You specifically asked for 'any other comments' and then got bent out of shape when you got some. 2) You ever think about reading your owner's manual? The maintenance area will tell you when the engineers that designed your motor think you should change the belt!
i have an 86 cutlass supreme with the stock 307 .. my engine has seized up and i am buying a 350 to replace it ... but my problem right now is that im takin my 307 out of my car but the distributer is stuck .. will turn slightly but will not lift up .. i dissconnected everything , took off all the bolts and screw that were needed to be taken off and i even took the distributer cap off and the distributer still wont come out ... can some one please help me with this ? thanks rich from ct
the whole engine seized ... i let my mas drive my car and asked her to keep an eye on the oil to check it every now and then .. and she didnt ... then out of no wheres the engine just seized up ... i tried turning the crank with a 2 ft. pipe wrench n that thing would budge .. i have not tried to sledge my distributer only for the simple fat that i might plan on re-using it with my new engine ima get ....
Comments
I have a 2007 rabbit with 3,100 miles on it that has had 3 out-of-round tires in the same location - drivers side front. Each time that the tire was found to be defective all other tires were checked to make sure they weren't out of round; and still has only been in that same location. After 2nd brand new tire I took in my car to dealer. Dealer found nothing mechanical...however they thought it was unusual. Now this is my 3rd out-of-round tire and I will be taking in my car again. Has anyone ever heard of this being a problem on the rabbit/golf? It seems it takes a few weeks after getting new tire for it to become out-of-round, so i find it difficult dealer doesn't see anything mechanical. It is really bothersome, considering it makes my overall driving experience really unpleasant.
I would appreciate any feedback to this very annoying problem.
If an acceptable level of run-out can't be achieved, then the hub or the rim needs replacing.
seem's to me, it's probably the rim which is "out-of-round".
an easy way to see this is to dismount the tire and roll the rim on a very flat surface. if it's out of round, it will be pretty obvious.
But if you mounted the high side of the "bent" rim to the low side of the 'bent" hub and put on a straight tire, there you go, no more out of round.
I don't think it's possible to "make" a once-straight and once-mounted tire GO out of round unless you deliberately shaved it somehow. If it is, it's news to me.
If if he WAS referring to irregular tread pattern wear, then you are absolutely right.
I'm taking in the car again next week to see if maybe they overlooked something, or possibly they have techs that aren't very experienced..
I appreciate all the feedback I've received...all suggestions help me to ask the dealer the right questions..
If there are low spots (worn tread spots) in the tire, then it is pretty likely that the strut or shock to that tire is worn out and is allowing that tire to "hop".
The reason I ask is my Check Engine light is on and I'm wondering if that could be it.
Anyone ever lost one of those things and is it owner repairable?
Thanks for any help,
Lancelotlink
ever see one of the emissions stations hook their CAP to a sensing tube? they are checking the CAP for proper operation. they don't hook their sensing tube to the filler neck...
if anything, it probably went down the filler tube and is sitting in the tube or tank. if it's in the tube, i suppose it could be fixable (take it out and replace with new neck, but am not sure. Did you try looking with a flashlight or feeling with your finger to see if the "door" is still there, just no longer spring loaded?
my suggestion would be to bring your car to a parts store. many will read codes for free, and you go from there. you're just guessing what the CEL could be caused by.
i would say, if your GAS CAP were broken / leaking, then yeah, that could cause the car to throw a CEL. that's pretty easy to replace.
but without knowing the codes and googling, you're pretty much in unknown / guessing territory.
HTH.
I took your advice and lit a match so's I could see down the filler tube. My kind Doctor is typing this reply.
Just kidding of course!
The little trap door down the fuel filler neck is definitely missing though.
Forgetting the CEL then, what purpose does that trap-door serve? We checked my buddies Mini-Van and he's got one too.
just wondering,
lancelotlink
Guessing: keeps out dust / dirt / contaminants when the cap is off, and while the unleaded fuel fill nozzle isn't inserted and in the act of filling the vehicle's tank. Also serves as a barrier for the insertion of a Leaded Fuel filler nozzle.
Also, last night on my way home, I heard kind of a pop noise & the display on the radio, got really bright, then a few minutes later, another pop, the display went back to normal. This continued on evey few minutes of my 40 minute commute. My frist thought was regulator, but I just replaced the Altinator a couple of months ago & the regulator is attached...
any suggestions? :confuse:
Make them fix it, for free!
If the wire was secured properly, then it shouldn't have broken.
Unfortunately, the sensor that the wire goes to is part of the brake pads, so the pad will have to be replced, but regardless of how the wire got broke (which is how I bet they are trying to get out of warrantying it), it should be covered under warranty, unless they were using really cheap parts.
wondering when i should really change the timing belt
any other comments appreciated
thanks, w
2.5 or 2.3L?
On the 2.5 L the manufacturer's recommendation is 105,000 miles and inspect it at 60,000 miles.
On the 2.3 L the manufacturer's recommendation is to replace the belt at 60,000 miles.
Now you can see why it is so important that when you post, you supply the Year, Make, Model AND Engine of the vehicle you are asking about.
i can see why you call yourself 0 patience
you seem bothered when it is an easy response without me listing which engine
but i'm game: it's a 2.5 L engine --- if i thought it mattered i would have listed it, and i also thought this is the standard engine and the response would be for the standard engine unless was otherwise stated by the poster
but hey, what do i know
thanks again, w
Let me make this clear.........
When you answer posts for people and you need information, like which engine and they seem to not be interested in posting that information, tell me why I should bother to help anymore.
you seem bothered when it is an easy response without me listing which engine
Yes, I am bothered when folks seem to think our crystal ball will tell us all the information that they so frequently leave out.
Have you any idea of how many times we (people helping) have posted that we need that information?
Then to have someone like you take offense to it??
How dare I question you? Good grief.
if i thought it mattered i would have listed it, and i also thought this is the standard engine and the response would be for the standard engine unless was otherwise stated by the poster
Don't be dense. I showed you very clearly that the information makes a difference.
There is no STANDARD engines anymore. A lot of satandard base models will come with several engines.
But what do I know? Nothing I guess. You seem to be the expert. Not sure why you were asking.
makes sense.
the problem is your reply came off condescending, like you were putting the poster down for not framing the question in the exact manner which would get him a reply of value. in this case, you could have left the latter part of the response off. it's not likely most people would think there'd be a difference which would matter. but when trying to educate, a simple statement of the fact coupled with the two pieces you provided would be of help to the original posters and others.
this is unfortunate because the information you supplied was high value. but the method of delivery?
lemme ask you - do you think you needed the follow-up? he got your point. no need to put him down several times more to drive it well past home. it just makes you look bad. way over the top. :sick:
Someone like OPatience sees every type of car and it's impossible to have all engine and transmission options at one's fingertips.
Given the fee OPatience charges and the level of expertise he offers, I see no harm in indulging his fantasies and giving him the amount of air in each tire if that's what he feels he needs.
We're all interesting in getting to the right answer, so why not shake hands, wipe the blackboard clean and just solve the problem?
sending you email.
Thanks
1. Do a compression test to make sure we have a full deck.
2. If #1 is okay, I'd temporarily remove the catalytic converter by using a "test pipe" and see how the vehicle performs. If there's dramatic improvement, your catalytic is clogged or damaged.
3. Oh I forgot. If you can, try to drive a similar Jeep and see what's up.
Now ... this will be a silly question, but I gotta ask it. You're SURE its not the 4-cyl model, right??
I've got another really silly idea. I'd check to make sure the ring and pinion hasn't been swapped out. I can't say why someone would do it or even what you might put in there to get such horrible results, but it just sounds to me like your problem ain't in the engine. At 75 mph downhill on the highway, what RPMs are you turning in 5th gear?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You don't have a parking brake sticking, do you? I would have thought you'd totally wear that out if you did.
The swapped pinion idea is quite clever but sort of left field.
The 4 cylinder idea would explain everything!
the story of my life. ;b
well... except not always the "clever" part.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Oh well. No worries.
Its been fun, for the most part.
I'll bow out and leave you folks.
The guy with obviously the most technical knowledge posting on the board, and you **** him off!
And, back to the original poster about when to change your timing belt:
1) You specifically asked for 'any other comments' and then got bent out of shape when you got some.
2) You ever think about reading your owner's manual? The maintenance area will tell you when the engineers that designed your motor think you should change the belt!
Cheeze!
Otherwise, one is always suspicious of what's BEHIND a fuse box on an older car---that is, corrosion, loose wires, etc.
If anyone has any problem with another person's response, don't get into an argument. E-mail me and I'll try to take care of it for you.
You all know how easy it is to misinterpret, inflate and exaggerate in electronic communication. I'm sure nobody intended an insult.
So let it rest and we'll get back to helping each other out, okay?
Thanks!
MrShiftright
Host
Carspace.com Forums