Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • mullismullis Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have a link to the tsb on a/c? I haven't been able to locate it. Thanks.
  • mz3ctmz3ct Member Posts: 23
    Look - we all invested in the first model year because of what? An exemplary AC? No - a great vehicle that blows the pants off anyhting else we've driven for under 40k - the 3 is not a flawless vehicle (AC), but it's still one of the best sport wagons ever made and after 13,000 miles, a weak AC, a few CELs, I still love the car. True, an adequate AC should not be a question these days - stop complaining about..you bought the car anyway and there's nothing we can do about it....how about that huge glove box???
  • dougpaw57dougpaw57 Member Posts: 11
    Man, I'm tired of hearing people say that lousy AC is a minor inconvenience. It's always easy if you live way up North to say it's not great, just adequate. Why don't you take a trip out to the Southwest in July or August, my guess is you'll trade the car in for your return trip home. I just had the AC "diffuser" fix performed on my car and it still blows warm air when it's 50 degrees outside. My guess is that I'll be fighting with Mazda again come March or April. And what other vehicles under $40K have you driven? If you can't find something better than a Mazda 3 for $30K, you need to look at another dealership, maybe one that sells something other than Mazda.
  • mz3ctmz3ct Member Posts: 23
    Look again...I was just being open-minded - trying to focus in on positives. Maybe I'm tired of hearing people complain about poor AC. Anyone who bought the vehicle after knowing of the AC issue should not be complaining AT ALL. And the 40k reference was inconsequential - I just think the 3 is almost as refined as many much more expensive cars - maybe not 40k but definitely 30k...to each his/her own...
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    It is completely worthless - Even after the installation of the diffuser - my AC still will not cool the car while I am in heavy stop and go traffic. I rolled down the window while stuck in traffic yesterday - the defective AC just did not want to provide any cooling.

    I would much rather have a blown engine or a complete transmission failure - or even both at the same time - I can't be 100% sure about this but I think that even Mazda would have a hard time telling a customer that the engine and tranny were designed to blow up and that they are within specification. But they could say that they know about the engine and transmission "CONCERN" and are just taking their sweet time coming up with a solution.

    The real issue here is not the defective AC system - it is the horrible way Mazda treats their customers.
  • unixxusunixxus Member Posts: 97
    Considering the way you feel about your Mazda3,it's AC problem, and the treatment you've received from corporate Mazda, one would have assumed that you would have got rid of the vehicle by now.
  • gib11gib11 Member Posts: 47
    I have a MZ3sport since december 2003 with 20000kilometers on it. I have no issue so far (therefore as much reliable has a Honda or Toyota). I feel sorry for those who have problems with their car. But some issue just aren't any IMHO (e.g. break dust on the rear disks) what? most other car have break dust in the FRONT and nobody complains!!!. As for AC, be patient Mazda is working on that issue (altough in my car it works real fine to my taste). As for MPG, it is one of the best econo car on the market, if You take into account engine size, HP and torque. The MZ3 is not a wimpy civic or corolla (just try to sit 4 people and climb a hill, You will see the difference between a civic, corolla and MZ3). If You compare others brands (Kia, Hyundai, VW, Audi, Nissan, all Americains brands), the MZ3 is more frugal than those, even if the MZ3 has a bigger engine.

    Finally, If someone is really dissatisfied with the car, the service or the company as a whole. Then just sell the car and stop whining about it. It is not good for your health. Stress kills people. And if You think others brands do better, go see other Edmuns forum, you will see that nothing is perfect in the car world.
  • dougpaw57dougpaw57 Member Posts: 11
    I know it must get terribly hot up there in Canada, it gets just a little warmer in Southern California. And, unfortunately, I can't sell the car because with an MSRP of $15,350, the car is now worth $10,200. That's a tough loss to swallow for a two month old car with 2000 miles on it.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Nice solution - if you have a defective car just trade it in. You know it sure would be nice if car companies had a way to protect a customer from purchasing a defective car. Maybe agree to fix things that don't work properly for a few years / or maybe until the car went so many miles. I have heard that many of the car companies have this protection - they call it a warranty! I also thought Mazda had this feature -but when the time comes to fix something they decide that the obligation to honor it is optional.

    The rear brake dust situation - it is not the dust that's the problem - it is the loud grinding noise. Mazda of course tells me that this grinding sound is normal - must be one of the design features of the Mazda3.

    So far after 8 1/2 months and 7,500 miles I have only been into the dealership 9 times for warranty work.

    I think this is more trips back to the dealer than the sum total of my 4 previous vehicles. That would be a combined 21 years of ownership and close to 300,000 miles.

    I think it would be a safe bet that my next car will not be a Mazda. I would rather do business with a company that stands behind the products that they sell - even after my check clears the bank.
  • payopayo Member Posts: 2
    I have a 4 door Mzd3 with black interior and agree that the stock A/C is subpar. However, I had the work done and IMO it has resulted in a huge improvement. You can't get much hotter than the Alabama temps and my 3 now cools sufficiently on Level 1 blower and really kicks at 2 (even the wife agrees and she is the pickiest A/C connoisseur around). I do still sense a temp fluctuation when accelerating but I knew what I was getting when I bought a 4 cylinder. Anyhow, I highly reccomend having the work done. Also, make sure your dealer has the part in stock. I dropped mine off and was only notified the next afternoon that the part was not in stock and they would be getting it in the following day. Once the part was in though, it took about an hour and a half. I did get a Protege as a loaner and have to admit if the 3 replaced the Protege in the Mazda lineup it was a great move. The Protege did not compare.
  • masterdalamarmasterdalamar Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone,

    I've owned the 3 for about 4 months now, and everything seems to be ok. I'm actually discouraged having read recent reviews and forums. I'm now anticipating having problems, which really sux since i'm a first time buyer/owner. That aside. . .

    The only thing that bothers me a bit is that i think there might be somethig wrong with the front right supsension. When I go over bumps there is a weird crunching noice, not horrible but irating, one which i don't think I noticed before. Is it normal? Also the paint has a few imperfections, is it normal of cars or is it bad on Mazda's behalf. Also the engine "puts" a bit, which can be felt slightly on the inside, though I'm not sure how much is normal. Well thanks for any responses to this message. Also I hear a lot of wind noise while driving, is it possible the my door is incorrectly adjusted? Once again thanx.
  • big_guybig_guy Member Posts: 372
    If the suspension sound is similar to what I had on my MPV, there is interference between the plastic lining in the wheel well and the suspension as it passes into the engine compartment. This interference generates a "crunching sound" much like you describe. It may not be the culprit but it may be worth a look. For my MPV they trimmed back a little of the plastic liner and it eliminated the noise.
  • runinrunin Member Posts: 30
    Now that its getting to be fall, my windows always have fog/condesation on them in the morning. My rear window defroster seems to be subpar though. This morning it took me 15 minutes before I started to notice the wires clearing anything and by the time I got where I was going, it didn't matter. My last car was a VW golf and the rear defroster on that thing had the window cleared a few short minutes. Anybody else notice this on their MZ3 yet?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I had the AC TSB done two weeks ago - I see little or no change. Most of the trips I take are short (10 - 15 miles) in city traffic. If I leave the car parked in the sun for a hour or more - the car still feels sweaty hot even after a 20 - 30 minute drive across town - my other vehicles are completely cool after only 5 or so minutes.

    I have not taken a long highway trip on a hot sunny day since I had the TSB done - but based on my in town experience I still think my AC system is defective.
  • fuzzboxerfuzzboxer Member Posts: 19
    So far I haven't had any problems. The AC is fine when I turn it up and the rear defrost does its job in a few minutes. My drive to work is only 5 miles.
  • roger341roger341 Member Posts: 59
    This is a never-ending discussion. Some say they are satisfied with the cooling, others say it's marginal, and some say it isn't even that.

    I've had lots of cars in my lifetime, all but the first one had a/c. Most of the cars were imports, and the one before my 04 Mz3 was an 01 Pro.

    Ok, having said this I realize my opinion is just that. I live in the DC area that gets very hot and humid in the summer so I think I can say I have given the a/c a fair test.

    On a few days when the temp was in the 90s and humidity was high, this a/c just didn't cut it. Even on recirc with fan on high, it just barely got the job done. On a scale of 1-10, it was either a strong 3 or a weak 4.

    On days when temp is in the 80s, it seems to be at least a 7 or maybe even an 8. In any case it is ok. Thing is, most other cars I have had easily would rate a 10 even on hottest days, and by that I mean if you turned it on high speed at coldest setting, it would freeze you into the back seat!

    Ever been in someone else's house and you think it's either too cold or too warm, but the owners think it's just fine and dandy?

    The problem is, we all are highly different when it comes to temperatures. We'll never achieve anything close to a consensus on this issue.

    Bottom line for me is this- I will never buy another car in the dead of winter, like I did on this one. I will never again assume the a/c will work ok.

    From now on, I will buy and test drive a new car sometime in July or August.

    On days when it's in the 90s, I just switch to our 02 Explorer which makes enough cold air for both vehicles.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I've owned Proteges all the way back to 1991. I've had lots of experience with the way Mazda A/C works. (I also weigh 270 pounds, so let's say I'm a "well-insulated individual" to whom A/C is an important factor in a car.)

    On my current car, a 2000 Protege ES (which I've now had through five hot, humid Richmond, VA summers), I have found that the highest fan setting does NOT cool the car the best. I have a feeling it's because the air is rushing so fast across the cooling coils that it doesn't have enough time to cool appropriately. The third fan setting out of four is where I find the best performance in the summertime, plus the car cools much better in the "face plus floor" position rather than the "face" position only. After about 10 minutes I'm frequently reaching to turn up the thermostat, even when it's 90-plus outside.

    The car is a five-speed and the compressor was definitely made to achieve peak performance at speeds above idle. It does NOT cool very well sitting at a traffic light, but once I get going and get the RPMs above 2,000 or so, you can feel the cold rush again.

    My SOP is to open all the windows and let the hot air escape. Sometimes I won't even turn on the A/C until later, when I put the windows up. When it comes time for maximum-performance A/C, I switch recirculate on and the fan speed on 3/4. If I'm in the city, it'll take a while to cool down, but it gets there -- comparable to any small car. If I'm on the highway or some other non-stop-and-go road, look out -- in 10 minutes I'll have icicles hanging from my eyes and shattered teeth all over my lap.

    Meade
  • fuzzboxerfuzzboxer Member Posts: 19
    What's the "break-in period"? Someone told me that the reason I'm getting crappy gas mileage is because the engine needs to break in. How long does this last and should I be concerned? One of the reasons I bought this car was because of the good fuel economy. My old V6 was getting better gas mileage than this car!
  • eaglewingseaglewings Member Posts: 20
    I'd be interested in buying it at that price (and thus relieve you of your unhappiness). Is it the 5 speed hatchback? What options? I don't need a moonroof or 6-CD changer, just ABS.Prefer titanium gray or Silver. This old fart has no image problem, and 50 degree inside temperature is just fine for me. I don't want to feel like I need to step out of an icebox and have cold, clammy hands.
  • rinebirdrinebird Member Posts: 83
    I went for an oil change Monday. I was told that the TSB came in on the AC; I reported in June ( I was told that it was fine and "in my head" by the service manager in June). well they gave me a rental for 3 days waiting for the AC part to arrive from Canada .I got the AC problem addressed .for now it feels cooler but it is now 50 some degrees out. Mazda reports AC poor when there is a TSB but when I went in to say it wasn't working they wrote"working per the manufacturer" I am glad i reported it to mAzda via email and my dealer. As for a TSB I never received one even though I had complained. BTW my car was built March 04.

    I have had new rear brakes, rotors, and now the AC part done by being persistant and aware.I also reported loud noise as if the right door isnt' sealed but I get from service" never heard that"

    My car was the First AC fix for my dealer in Phila, Pa. For those that say AC is an individual thing no we all are RIGHT in saying it was not working!
    Good Luck.
  • rinebirdrinebird Member Posts: 83
    I have charged my cell without a key problem. My lighter is very tight in the socket to the point I can hardly get it out. I have the mazda 3 1 sedan 04.

    I think they should help you. No they can't hear or reproduce OUR problems fro example my roaring brakes & the poor AC..but guess what when MAZDA decides to issue a TSB they suddenly agree with me with no apology.
  • sauriolsauriol Member Posts: 1
    Do you have to go to the dealer for oil changes on the 2004 Mazda 3 hatchback? Does it have a regular oil filter? If so does anyone know the aftermarket part number? Fram, AC Delco, etc.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    It does not use a "regular" oil filter. It uses a cartridge type. I am not sure if the quick oil change places (Jiffy Lube) has these - but even if they do I would still go to the dealership for this service. My dealer charges $19.95 for an oil change - and will do it in 30 minutes - or the next one is free - which is not that bad of a deal. I had a bad experience with a Jiffy Lube oil change once - they put the wrong oil filter on and it destroyed the engine - it took several weeks to get them to admit the problem and pay for a complete engine overhaul. After that I started going to the dealer -

    The other reason I have been using the dealer is because my Mazda3 has been in the shop for warranty work 9 times in the first 8 months of ownership - so since they have the car already it saves me a trip.
  • sschaffersschaffer Member Posts: 80
    It's a cartridge type filter, don't think there are any aftermarket ones available yet.

    I bought the filter and cartridge housing gasket from my Mazda dealer and did the job myself. The housing can be unscrewed with an end cap type oil filter adapter--79mm I think. I had bought a 74mm one due to false info on another site and it was too small. Luckily I was able to remove the cartridge housing by hand. It's made of plastic so don't use a universal oil filter wrench on it.

    I work in a Toyota service dept. and a few times a year we get a nice newish car towed in with a blown engine due to JiffyLube or the like. More often it's just a loose filter or drain plug causing a leak and no damage done. In any case I wouldn't take any car to Jiffy Lube.

    Most dealers of any make send out coupons for cheap oil changes on a regular basis or have regular $19.95 specials running all the time.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The other benefit of having the oil changes and other required service done at a dealership during the powertrain warranty period is that there can then be no dispute by the dealer or manufacturer that the required maintenance was done. And if there is any problem traced to maintenance, everyone knows exactly who is at fault. Also, I've found that my dealer charges less for oil changes than does the typical Jiffy Lube type of place.
  • highwayeaglehighwayeagle Member Posts: 2
    New to forum. Has anybody had problems with there exhaust. Had internal and external rattles since day one. Dealer thought i was nuts till I ran into a Mazda tech. He told me there have been alot of problems with the exhausts due to to muck back pressure. Exhausts are to small. Guess there replacing them with bigger ones. Also drivers side window. Sounds like my glass is going to break inside. Something loose.
  • mautomauto Member Posts: 75
    Would it be more wise to avoid a first year car than to buy in the summer because you think the A/C might not work and you need to be able to test it?

    You could argue that one should buy a car in the winter because you need to test the performance of the heater. Some cars have heaters that you could make toast with, and some don't
  • peterdh2000peterdh2000 Member Posts: 54
    eagle, is it when you're engaging the clutch and bog the engine down a bit? if so, i might have it too.
  • peterdh2000peterdh2000 Member Posts: 54
    My Mazda dealer charges 26.95 and does the whole "full circle" checklist, and washes the car. I assume there's coupons periodically, too. Most quick lube places around here (seattle) charge close to $30. i figure with the 3 (and the 6i?) being the only one w/the funky filter, why chance it on the quick lube?
  • roger341roger341 Member Posts: 59
    Yeah buying a new model in first year, especially an early production vehicle, is not wise. I just got carried away when I saw it during the auto show.

    Re oil changes, I have it done at dealer which threw in free changes as many times as I want them. There is lots of competition where I live so it's fairly easy to get these incentives.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I agree 100% that it is a HUGE mistake to buy a Mazda in the first year of a new model - the plain simple fact is Mazda does not stand behind the products that they produce / sell. Not sure if the first year thing is the real issue - I don't see Mazda all of a sudden changing the way they do business just because a car is in its second year.

    I would even think that in a cars first year they would want to try even MORE to get it right - or fix it if its not -
  • lmp180psulmp180psu Member Posts: 399
    I don't know anything about the exhaust, as mine sounds fine, but I had a loud cracking noise whenever I would lower/raise the window (especially if it was partly open), and the dealer replaced my window regulator. I have the same noise on the passenger side as well, and they said they tightened some loose bolts/screws - the noise is still there, but not as bad.
  • highwayeaglehighwayeagle Member Posts: 2
    No I get it at idle, and when i touch the pedal to rev. it up. Very tinny sounding. It's in the dealer now. I'll let you know how I made out. Wish me luck.
  • hippie8hippie8 Member Posts: 2
    Bought a Mazda 3 automatic in August and just this week the engine light went on and wouldn't go off. Have it in the dealer and was wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem.

    Also my driveway is on a slight incline and when I get in the car there is a squeaking noise in the rear. When I brought into the dealer I was told that was normal. Anybody else experience this noise. Also does the rear view mirror make that click sound when being adjusted. I was told that was normal also. Just wondering if these "normal" sounds are being experienced by other owners.
    Thanks
  • birdman579birdman579 Member Posts: 151
    My 3s is quickly approaching 5000 miles and I'm happy to report zero problems. Its running great, maybe even better now that everything's broken in. I couldn't be happier.
  • mason12mason12 Member Posts: 9
    My salesperson told me when he showed me the car that when you start you need to pause before turning the key to allow the theft sensor time to ensure it has the right key in the ignition. I don't, and it starts everytime anyway, but maybe that's what your problem is.
  • darnacdarnac Member Posts: 31
    The sqeaking noise in the rear is from the rear brakes being deployed with the handbrake. Very normal and just about all cars will do this.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I will bet money that many of you owners -- for whom your Mazda3 is your first experience with Mazda -- are going to start complaining about a "funny squeaky sound" from your suspension once it gets cold this winter.

    As a proactive, friendly gesture from someone who's owned five Mazda vehicles since 1991, let me let all of you in on a little secret. Mazda's suspension design is noisy in cold weather -- at least for the first couple of bumps in the morning. I have a driveway with a rounded curb at the end -- you know, instead of a "slot" in an otherwise square curb, my entire length of curb in front of my house is the same, rounded shape -- and I have to drop down a small lump onto the street when I leave the driveway.

    On cold mornings, the suspension on my 2000 Protege ES makes a very loud crunchy/squeaky sound when I cross that threshold. It's not noticeable with normal pavement undulations -- only when I drop off the curb -- and going into and out of my driveway is the only time I ever hear it.

    I'll guarantee you that some of you will hear it as the weather gets colder. Usually I start hearing it on mornings when it gets down around 35 to 40 degrees. And it's not something you have to listen for; I can hear my wife's 2002 Protege5 doing it while I'm standing on the porch 30 feet away.

    Just be ready, and be aware ... it is a Mazda quirk, and there's nothing wrong with your car.

    Meade
  • dcmz3dcmz3 Member Posts: 2
    I've had my Mz3 for about three weeks now. I have notice a solid knocking noise when lowering, and sometimes raising, the driver side window. Is anyone else having this problem? Everything else is great!
  • sschaffersschaffer Member Posts: 80
    I get it occasionally on both front windows, more on the left 'cause I open and close that one more. It never makes a noise except when lowering or sometimes when raising--no rattles or other noises when it's stationary in any position. There's a certain amount of necessary slack in all window regulators, and sometimes this results in a snapping or knocking or even minor clunking noise when raising or lowering as the slack is taken up. I work on Toyotas for a living and some of them make similar noises.

    Best indication of a real malfunction or parts loose other than normal slack is if you get a noise when not moving the window up or down, just when it's stationary and you hit a bump, especially if the window is partially open. I don't get anything like that on mine.

    Since so many others are reporting the same noise and only when opening or closing I'm going to assume it's a normal characteristic of the car, it's highly unlikely that so many cars would have loose window regulator attachment bolts or faulty regulators.

    Of course if the noise gets significantly worse over time, or starts happening with the window stationary and not when rolling up or down, I'll probably either take it in or pull off the door panel myself and take a look. As it is my car has no rattles anywhere and I'm very reluctant to have the dealer pull the trim panel looking for what may well be a normal noise, as trim panel clips never go back on after being removed quite as tightly as original. I don't want to risk getting rattles I don't have now due to exploratory surgery, in other words.
  • camarogirlcamarogirl Member Posts: 2
    I've put about 5,000 mi. on my MZ3s 5door with 5sp. and I truly love it. This is my fourth Mazda, having begun with a new '88 MX6 and '94 & '98 626's. Every one has been a great car except for a sunroof problem in the '94. I really think Mazda makes a bombproof car- especially for the money. But- now I know that I'm not alone in noticing more brake dust on the rears and I did take it in over concern with a marginally performing A/C system.(All of my other Mazdas froze me out!) They said it was "normal", so now,after hearing from you good people, I shall return better armed! Otherwise, I do feel this car is as close to perfect as one can get for $20,000.
  • dsodso Member Posts: 14
    My 1991 Protege DX makes this precise sound first thing in the morning, with the sound coming from the rear of the car. Never occurred to me it was anything other than my car's own personal quirk!
  • fuzzboxerfuzzboxer Member Posts: 19
    I noticed that the break drum or whatever that flat metal part is behind the wheel is starting to rust a little bit. Is this normal and can I use somthing to prevent it from rusting?

    As for the breakdust, its easy to clean off with a rag or soap and water. Its inherent on any car, I would think.
  • aric214aric214 Member Posts: 20
    I've been noticing a grinding noise everytime I brake, especially the last second before it comes to a halt. Is anyone else experiencing this? If so, do you know what the problem is?

    My 3 has almost 11k miles and was manufactured 11/03.

    Thanks.
  • harddrivetharddrivet Member Posts: 90
    Can someone post a link to the AC TSB?
  • camarogirlcamarogirl Member Posts: 2
    I know the brake dust is easy to clean off but it is usually heavier on the front wheels (see earlier posts).
    the rust on your brake rotors is usually just a product of rain or water whilst the car has been idle and as soon as you drive it and apply the brakes, the rust is wiped away by the brake pads.
  • fuzzboxerfuzzboxer Member Posts: 19
    Edmunds can show you the TSBs. Just go here: http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/MaintenanceServlet
  • aric214aric214 Member Posts: 20
    I've been noticing a grinding noise everytime I brake, especially the last second before it comes to a halt. Is anyone else experiencing this? If so, do you know what the problem is?

    My 3 has almost 11k miles and was manufactured 11/03.

    Thanks.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I have the same thing with my 10/03 Mazda3 -I had a (so called) repair done several months ago - they remove the brake pads - remove some burrs from the metal backing (of the brake pad) then lube and reinstall the pads.

    It helped a little bit - but after a few months the same grinding noise is back.

    The procedure was listed on my invoice as Mazda TIPS MT000004235

    IMO it was not worth the trip to the dealer - because it did not solve the problem.

    I now have 9 trips to the dealer for problems in 9 months and 8,000 miles - my hope is to make it a whole month without any dealer visits.
  • looking2buylooking2buy Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I'm thinking of purchasing a Mazda 3s automatic. I hear the paint chips easily and people are mentioning the 3M. What is it exactly? Does it work? Did you go with that? The cost? Thanks. I'm in Chicago (NW suburbs actually)
    Any help appreciated.
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