By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I would much rather have a blown engine or a complete transmission failure - or even both at the same time - I can't be 100% sure about this but I think that even Mazda would have a hard time telling a customer that the engine and tranny were designed to blow up and that they are within specification. But they could say that they know about the engine and transmission "CONCERN" and are just taking their sweet time coming up with a solution.
The real issue here is not the defective AC system - it is the horrible way Mazda treats their customers.
Finally, If someone is really dissatisfied with the car, the service or the company as a whole. Then just sell the car and stop whining about it. It is not good for your health. Stress kills people. And if You think others brands do better, go see other Edmuns forum, you will see that nothing is perfect in the car world.
The rear brake dust situation - it is not the dust that's the problem - it is the loud grinding noise. Mazda of course tells me that this grinding sound is normal - must be one of the design features of the Mazda3.
So far after 8 1/2 months and 7,500 miles I have only been into the dealership 9 times for warranty work.
I think this is more trips back to the dealer than the sum total of my 4 previous vehicles. That would be a combined 21 years of ownership and close to 300,000 miles.
I think it would be a safe bet that my next car will not be a Mazda. I would rather do business with a company that stands behind the products that they sell - even after my check clears the bank.
I've owned the 3 for about 4 months now, and everything seems to be ok. I'm actually discouraged having read recent reviews and forums. I'm now anticipating having problems, which really sux since i'm a first time buyer/owner. That aside. . .
The only thing that bothers me a bit is that i think there might be somethig wrong with the front right supsension. When I go over bumps there is a weird crunching noice, not horrible but irating, one which i don't think I noticed before. Is it normal? Also the paint has a few imperfections, is it normal of cars or is it bad on Mazda's behalf. Also the engine "puts" a bit, which can be felt slightly on the inside, though I'm not sure how much is normal. Well thanks for any responses to this message. Also I hear a lot of wind noise while driving, is it possible the my door is incorrectly adjusted? Once again thanx.
I have not taken a long highway trip on a hot sunny day since I had the TSB done - but based on my in town experience I still think my AC system is defective.
I've had lots of cars in my lifetime, all but the first one had a/c. Most of the cars were imports, and the one before my 04 Mz3 was an 01 Pro.
Ok, having said this I realize my opinion is just that. I live in the DC area that gets very hot and humid in the summer so I think I can say I have given the a/c a fair test.
On a few days when the temp was in the 90s and humidity was high, this a/c just didn't cut it. Even on recirc with fan on high, it just barely got the job done. On a scale of 1-10, it was either a strong 3 or a weak 4.
On days when temp is in the 80s, it seems to be at least a 7 or maybe even an 8. In any case it is ok. Thing is, most other cars I have had easily would rate a 10 even on hottest days, and by that I mean if you turned it on high speed at coldest setting, it would freeze you into the back seat!
Ever been in someone else's house and you think it's either too cold or too warm, but the owners think it's just fine and dandy?
The problem is, we all are highly different when it comes to temperatures. We'll never achieve anything close to a consensus on this issue.
Bottom line for me is this- I will never buy another car in the dead of winter, like I did on this one. I will never again assume the a/c will work ok.
From now on, I will buy and test drive a new car sometime in July or August.
On days when it's in the 90s, I just switch to our 02 Explorer which makes enough cold air for both vehicles.
On my current car, a 2000 Protege ES (which I've now had through five hot, humid Richmond, VA summers), I have found that the highest fan setting does NOT cool the car the best. I have a feeling it's because the air is rushing so fast across the cooling coils that it doesn't have enough time to cool appropriately. The third fan setting out of four is where I find the best performance in the summertime, plus the car cools much better in the "face plus floor" position rather than the "face" position only. After about 10 minutes I'm frequently reaching to turn up the thermostat, even when it's 90-plus outside.
The car is a five-speed and the compressor was definitely made to achieve peak performance at speeds above idle. It does NOT cool very well sitting at a traffic light, but once I get going and get the RPMs above 2,000 or so, you can feel the cold rush again.
My SOP is to open all the windows and let the hot air escape. Sometimes I won't even turn on the A/C until later, when I put the windows up. When it comes time for maximum-performance A/C, I switch recirculate on and the fan speed on 3/4. If I'm in the city, it'll take a while to cool down, but it gets there -- comparable to any small car. If I'm on the highway or some other non-stop-and-go road, look out -- in 10 minutes I'll have icicles hanging from my eyes and shattered teeth all over my lap.
Meade
I have had new rear brakes, rotors, and now the AC part done by being persistant and aware.I also reported loud noise as if the right door isnt' sealed but I get from service" never heard that"
My car was the First AC fix for my dealer in Phila, Pa. For those that say AC is an individual thing no we all are RIGHT in saying it was not working!
Good Luck.
I think they should help you. No they can't hear or reproduce OUR problems fro example my roaring brakes & the poor AC..but guess what when MAZDA decides to issue a TSB they suddenly agree with me with no apology.
The other reason I have been using the dealer is because my Mazda3 has been in the shop for warranty work 9 times in the first 8 months of ownership - so since they have the car already it saves me a trip.
I bought the filter and cartridge housing gasket from my Mazda dealer and did the job myself. The housing can be unscrewed with an end cap type oil filter adapter--79mm I think. I had bought a 74mm one due to false info on another site and it was too small. Luckily I was able to remove the cartridge housing by hand. It's made of plastic so don't use a universal oil filter wrench on it.
I work in a Toyota service dept. and a few times a year we get a nice newish car towed in with a blown engine due to JiffyLube or the like. More often it's just a loose filter or drain plug causing a leak and no damage done. In any case I wouldn't take any car to Jiffy Lube.
Most dealers of any make send out coupons for cheap oil changes on a regular basis or have regular $19.95 specials running all the time.
You could argue that one should buy a car in the winter because you need to test the performance of the heater. Some cars have heaters that you could make toast with, and some don't
Re oil changes, I have it done at dealer which threw in free changes as many times as I want them. There is lots of competition where I live so it's fairly easy to get these incentives.
I would even think that in a cars first year they would want to try even MORE to get it right - or fix it if its not -
Also my driveway is on a slight incline and when I get in the car there is a squeaking noise in the rear. When I brought into the dealer I was told that was normal. Anybody else experience this noise. Also does the rear view mirror make that click sound when being adjusted. I was told that was normal also. Just wondering if these "normal" sounds are being experienced by other owners.
Thanks
As a proactive, friendly gesture from someone who's owned five Mazda vehicles since 1991, let me let all of you in on a little secret. Mazda's suspension design is noisy in cold weather -- at least for the first couple of bumps in the morning. I have a driveway with a rounded curb at the end -- you know, instead of a "slot" in an otherwise square curb, my entire length of curb in front of my house is the same, rounded shape -- and I have to drop down a small lump onto the street when I leave the driveway.
On cold mornings, the suspension on my 2000 Protege ES makes a very loud crunchy/squeaky sound when I cross that threshold. It's not noticeable with normal pavement undulations -- only when I drop off the curb -- and going into and out of my driveway is the only time I ever hear it.
I'll guarantee you that some of you will hear it as the weather gets colder. Usually I start hearing it on mornings when it gets down around 35 to 40 degrees. And it's not something you have to listen for; I can hear my wife's 2002 Protege5 doing it while I'm standing on the porch 30 feet away.
Just be ready, and be aware ... it is a Mazda quirk, and there's nothing wrong with your car.
Meade
Best indication of a real malfunction or parts loose other than normal slack is if you get a noise when not moving the window up or down, just when it's stationary and you hit a bump, especially if the window is partially open. I don't get anything like that on mine.
Since so many others are reporting the same noise and only when opening or closing I'm going to assume it's a normal characteristic of the car, it's highly unlikely that so many cars would have loose window regulator attachment bolts or faulty regulators.
Of course if the noise gets significantly worse over time, or starts happening with the window stationary and not when rolling up or down, I'll probably either take it in or pull off the door panel myself and take a look. As it is my car has no rattles anywhere and I'm very reluctant to have the dealer pull the trim panel looking for what may well be a normal noise, as trim panel clips never go back on after being removed quite as tightly as original. I don't want to risk getting rattles I don't have now due to exploratory surgery, in other words.
As for the breakdust, its easy to clean off with a rag or soap and water. Its inherent on any car, I would think.
My 3 has almost 11k miles and was manufactured 11/03.
Thanks.
the rust on your brake rotors is usually just a product of rain or water whilst the car has been idle and as soon as you drive it and apply the brakes, the rust is wiped away by the brake pads.
My 3 has almost 11k miles and was manufactured 11/03.
Thanks.
It helped a little bit - but after a few months the same grinding noise is back.
The procedure was listed on my invoice as Mazda TIPS MT000004235
IMO it was not worth the trip to the dealer - because it did not solve the problem.
I now have 9 trips to the dealer for problems in 9 months and 8,000 miles - my hope is to make it a whole month without any dealer visits.
I'm thinking of purchasing a Mazda 3s automatic. I hear the paint chips easily and people are mentioning the 3M. What is it exactly? Does it work? Did you go with that? The cost? Thanks. I'm in Chicago (NW suburbs actually)
Any help appreciated.