Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

oskwi

Thanks for your replies. I will definitely be "testing" the car during our weather extremes. Don't worry...I still have the M3 at the top of my list. My list has gotten shorter, however, the more research I do. Basically, it's between the M3 and the Matrix at this point. I seem to be favoring the Mazda because of the longer bumper to bumper warranty though. Luckily, I'm not in a desperate situation at this point and I can take my time in my final decision!

Regards to all.

z71bill

The HVAC defects are not the true problem with the Mazda3 - the problem is the HORRIBLE treatment you get from Mazda corporate. They should stand behind their warranty and fix the problems.

If - as many posts have stated - the problems are limited to early production models - then - Mazda has made some changes to resolve the defective system. They must know what the problem is - and they could - if they care at all about customer satisfaction - replace the defective parts on the early production models. They will not do this because it will cost them money.

Mazda VS Toyota - Mazda says they have a 4 year 50K mile bumper to bumper warranty - VS Toyota 3 years 36K mile. (Toyota does have a longer power train warranty) The difference is Toyota actually stands behind the warranty and will fix the problem - Mazda will not fix my defective car - and it has not even been 12 months.

I would take a 3/36 warranty from Toyota - over a 50 year - 1,000,000 mile warranty from Mazda - a warranty does not do you much good if every problem is considered normal - within spec.

jaman_ca

"The difference is Toyota actually stands behind the warranty and will fix the problem"

To be fair, I have heard many stories that contradict that statement.

But I agree with your general point 100%, a warranty is not good if it doesn't fix "problems".

birdman579

I live in Maryland so I have not experienced extreme cold yet. Compared to Canada, I'll never have extreme cold, whew Its been down around freezing and the car still warms up quickly. Rarely will my car see temperatures below the teens (F). My build date is 05/04. I purchased in July and now have 7200 miles. About time for the first oil change!

dancehaus

I also have this problem. I took it to the dealer and they said that there was no update for transmission software from Mazda. They then told me that if it keeps happening to contact them and they'll get in touch with the manufacturer. I thought to myself, "If it hadn't been happening for awhile, I wouldn't have brought it in." So, yeah, no help there. Any suggestions?

z71bill

I have the harsh 1-2 shift.

Seems to happen almost everyday on the first few 1-2 shifts. If this was the only problem I would say it was normal - but

I also get a very harsh 1-2 shift that happens every once in a while. I will be driving along - stop at a red light - then when I take off I get a surprise CLUNK! - so harsh that I take my foot off the gas - the chance of ever having the service department duplicate this problem is ZERO.

I have also noticed a harsh 1-2 shift - after the car has warmed up - I notice this most when driving slow - like in a school zone. It seems like the same clunk that happens first thing in the morning - but far less harsh that the major clunk I get every few weeks. When this happens it will repete the problem 5 or more times in a row - as long as I am going slow. If I step hard on the gas from a dead stop the 1-2 shift is smooth.

For a while I thought the problem had something to do with the load (weight) in the car - I seemed to notice it more after I filled the car up with gas - or when I went from 1 to 4 people in the car. Like the tranny had to adjust for the weight difference. But I am not so sure about this now. Seems more random.

I too ask my dealer about it - they had no information from Mazda - so it is considered normal. Just another example of poor customer service from Mazda.

el_bagador

i've read a lot of this thread in the last few days (but can't keep doing it, or i'll get fired, then won't be able to get a new car)...heard about a lot of problems with rear brakes, CEL, ABL, rear knocking noises. have these issues been ironed out yet, or sre they still hanging around on the '05's? looking to get a car in the pring of '05...either 3 hatch or matrix...any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

npaladin2000

I notice it every once in a while. It seems to be highly dependent on 2 factors: If the car is still cold, it's more likely, and it also depends on where in the rev range the shift is implemented. The further away from 3000 RPM the shift from 1 to 2 occurs, the more likely that it will be a rough shift, especially if the car is still cold. Not too big a deal.

el_bagador

general question: how much are mazda parts relative to other car parts? i've heard that dealers charge a lot...is there anywhere to order parts directly for less? and what are the maintenance costs for maz3's relative to other cars in its class? the 3 is too new to have a 'true cost to own' writeup from edmunds...pleas help!!

milt

Two items I am considering:
1. Front Mask (Bra). Had it on previous car and it looked good and protected from paint chips.
2. Paint protection/polishing ie. Ziebart or like company offers these which sounds like it would protect the paint and keep it shining without my labour for waxing.
Opinions/experiences would be appreciated.

z71bill

Are you asking about maintenance type parts like filters - or wear items like brake pads?

The only thing I know for sure is if you think a part is worth $25 chances are if it is a dealer only item it will cost $75.

I once paid $45 for a single lug nut for a Toyota. No one stocked this part and my only choice was the dealer.

I have also seen very large differences between two dealers on the same part - driver side window on a Nissan PU - one dealership wanted $350 - another sold it to me for about $100. I was "lucky" that the $350 dealership did not have it in stock - otherwise I would have not even bothered to check - thinking that every dealership would charge about the same price.

kagedude

It was about 20 degrees this morning and my Mazda 3i took a while for the heater to kick in. I would say about 15 minutes of driving before it started to get comfortable. Anyone have this same problem or "feature"? Maybe the HVAC as a whole is just a bad design.

autonomous

Z71bill is right to highlight the need to check prices before signing on the dotted line.

For example, I do not buy aftermarket products at a dealership. Tires are the best example of this. Dealerships offer a limited choice and seem to raise prices dramatically for no apparent reason. Tire specialists and retail chains featuring specials seem to be one's best bet, but, in the end it's up to us to do our homework.

Another example, was my air filter. Providing you can find the right model you may or may not save money on this. I was rather surprised that a auto retail chain that I frequent charged a little more than the dealer for the Fram air filter my Protege5 uses.

A more important concern is the validity of the part in the eyes of the company's warranty. Consider whether the aftermarket part you will be installing is worth the headache. For many maintenance items there likely is no impact but this could be the downside for any serious "improvements" (turbo kits, new suspensions, etc.) one is considering.

Good thing about Mazda is its reliability, so replacement apart from maintenance parts should be minimized.

el_bagador

i guess i'm talking about wear and tear stuff that i would need to replace either outside the warranty or after it expires. and i have questions on the relative costs for wear and tear stuff of something like the 3, as opposed to something like a matrix or an impreza. i've just read in different places that mazdas are on the expensive side to maintain, and i'm trying to confirm or disprove this.

autonomous

According to Consumer Reports the single most expensive "wear and tear" item on cars is their tires; Edmunds has a great tire forum that should help you make the right choice.

eoghan1

You might consider one of the clear plastic products such as the attached. I haven't decided to go for it but am concerned about chip on various parts of the car. By the way I have a 2004 3s Hatch 5spd in the same color. No problems in the first 3800 miles except the gas mileage is only in the 28mpg range for mixed driving.

eoghan1

whoops -here is the attached http://www.invinca-shield.com/main.htm

el_bagador

oh, i was wondering about these...any others that are good besides invinca-shield?

eoghan1

I think most of them use the same film by 3M.
I don't know much but believe the quality of the application would make a difference. You can get
an impression by calling around. i.e. some want to keep the car overnight to wash and prep it. some will do it in your driveway (not good). Some apply it in more numerous smaller pieces while others stretch larger pieces to cover a bigger area. I understand that can cause puckering etc. I suggest you do a search by subject and get opinions on edmunds. Here are a couple more vendor sites http://www.xpel.com/,,,,,http/ultimateautobra.com/wst_page2.html

sftony

Hi, All.

I, like many Mazda3 owners, have a problem with excessive brake dust on the rear wheels. I've been able to ignore it, clean it, etc, for about a year, but I'm curious as to whether Mazda has released any fixes for the problem? Also, I was told that the bigger problem might be the development of grooves on the rear rotors. Honestly, I'm not sure what counts as "excessive." The rear rotors on my car (3s sedan, build date 10/03, 9,200 miles) aren't smooth - they do have some texture as you run your finger from the center out - but I don't know how smooth I should expect them to be.

My dealer (San Francisco) tends to be skeptical of items he considers to be normal wear, and I'm not sure how long I can own the car before any problem gets classified as "normal" rather than "a problem from the start." So, I'd like to know if anyone has had luck in getting this issue fixed?

Thanks!

everfeb

I agree, shop around. My Mazda dealer in Winnipeg Manitoba wanted $120 each for 16" steel wheels for the Mazda3. I found prices of around $60 ea. from other Mazda dealers. The $60 price from the Mazda dealers was the same price as non-dealer sources for the wheels plus no warrantee problems when you put Mazda wheels on. So it certainly pays to shop around.
everfeb

z71bill

I don't understand why you are not happy with 28 MPG - I think the EPA estimate is 25 city /32 highway - 28 is reasonable.

I have the 2.3 sedan with the auto - this summer it was getting 16-17 MPG with 75% city/ 25 Highway - since the temps have cooled off I am now getting about 19 MPG.

I don't care that much about the gas cost because I don't drive that many miles - but needing to get gas every 220 or so miles kind of stinks.

birdman579

You are only getting 19 MPG?!?!?! That's insane. Is the 75% city strictly stop and go? If the car never has a chance to warm up, the mileage will definitely suffer. I've had my 3 for 4 months/7500 miles and the mileage has been a pretty consistent 30 MPG. A good tank can get 400 miles and that still leaves several gallons in reserve. I also don't baby my car, it loves to rev

fattire

I just got mine done a few days ago. There appear to be 3 primary makers of these paint protection film products. 3M, Avery, and I can't remember the name of the third my installer told me about.

Most of these products (if not all) use a 3M adhesive for their film. The companies that you see touting the clear paint protection films are essentially independent cutters/installers of the films. Clear Shield for example computer cuts and installs and Avery product. I had mine don by Ultra Shield which uses 3M's latest film.

All the installers will pretty much say that their product is better than the other guys for one reason or another. I went with 3M because I could find the most data and consumer reviews about the product. Their film has a good rep overall. 3M has also been doing this the longest (they initially developed a version of the film for military purposes 2 or 3 decades ago).

I had the bumper, grill, hood, and side mirrors done for about $500. Many of the complaints (every manufacturer has has them) about 3M's product have apparently been addressed as of the 2004 SEMA show, where they unveiled the latest version of their film, SGPPF6. I think the SG stands for "Stone Guard"; I believe the original marketing name of the product. PPF no doubt stands for "Paint Protection Film". '6' is probably the version number.

I can only distinguish the line on my hood from the where the film ends from 5 feet away or less (my car is dark gray). I do believe the expertise of your installer is an X factor. The guy I had, has been at it for a while. Although he's still not done a 3 hatch yet, he did a great job.

The value of these kits is debateable and is subjective to some extend. I've heard about the 3 getting chipped easily and I'm personally happy with the investment. My confirmation on this... before I got the film put on, I already had a chip on the hood after only 1 week of driving.

everfeb

z71bill...have you ever done an almost 100% highway driving mileage check? If so how is it?
I've done several highway only mileage checks and a few times couldn't even match the "around town" EPA # of 24 MP(US) gal never mind the 32mpg highway #. And I am not a leadfoot. I usually drive highway 65-70mph no A/C with cruise on.
I am quite disappointed with my mileage. But then I do have that 10/03 build date which seems to be the most problematic of the 3's built to date.
everfeb

el_bagador

i was also wondering if this was still happening with later issue 3's...dealer assured me it wasn't.

autonomous

"My Mazda dealer in Winnipeg Manitoba wanted $120 each for 16" steel wheels for the Mazda3. I found prices of around $60 ea. from other Mazda dealers. The $60 price from the Mazda dealers was the same price as non-dealer sources ... "

Wow! Did you question your dealer about the price difference? Did you wonder about their other prices and service charges? Low price does not equal value in all cases but when there is a clear comparison (part A = part A) then one begins to wonder about the reputation of the dealer.

I recently had a positive experience at my Mazda dealership when I brought in my car to solve the clackity-clack noise my wheels were making since I had my brakes serviced two weeks prior. After a short wait a mechanic rode the car for a couple of minutes and diagnosed the sound to the flexing of my snug plastic wheelcovers against the wheel. He applied some grease and presto I was out of there riding on a smile. An example of a dealership that understands that by keeping their customers happy they keep their customers.

z71bill

I calculated my MPG over the last 10 tanks (OK so I am a record keeping freak) the average is 17.97 MPG - I had a one tank high of 20.9 and a low of 16.3. This is not what I expected when I bought the Mazda3 - with other vehicles I normally average very close to the EPA City rating as my overall MPG average. Since I have the auto tranny that should be 24 MPG.

Before buying the Mazda3 we used our Chevy Tahoe (5.3L V8) to drive the same miles that we now drive in the Mazda3 - the Tahoe was almost always just a shade over 15 MPG. The EPA rates the Tahoe at 14/18 city/highway.

I did one tank that was 100% highway - in no hurry - set the cruise at 65 - and got 29.7 MPG -which is better than the EPA highway rating of 29.

I thought about asking my dealer about the poor MPG - I have made 9 trips to the dealership for other problems, so I have had my chance - but since Mazda will not even fix my grinding rear brakes or defective AC system it is hard for me to even think that they would put any effort into solving a problem with low MPG.

FYI - my build date is 10/03 -

eoghan1

Have done a 90-95% highway(70mph) check and got nearly 30mpg-no A/C w/cruise on. This is a 5sp hatch W/3800 miles, 7/04 build date. Sold my 24v Taurus SEL which got equal MPG highway and nearly the same overall mpg. Expected better from the Mazda. I might try a different brand of gas. Wanted a more fun, smaller car and got it. I miss the auto on head lights, more adjustable seat, and a few other items but otherwise like the Mazda
We don't care for the red instrument lights. I used Mobil 1 previously but note Mazda doesn't recommend it??

daryl

I've been reading these posts for quite a while, before I got my 3 hatch in August and thought I give my input to what's been said.
I'm 95% happy with my car. My mileage varies from 22.6 to 29, if I'm on the highway a lot. My driving is about 50/50 city /hwy. The mileage is extremely sensitive to hard driving, but I can get very close to 300 to a tank if go a little easy.
I've had no quality issues at all. The brake dust is very light on the rear, but I wash it when I do my wife's Volvo wheels. Now there's some serious brake dust!
Check engine light went on when I didn't tighten the gas cap and it lit up a sensor. Dealer wasn't pleased, but I didn't buy it from them.
I dopn't notice any difference in how long it takes to warm up the interior from my previous "94 Accord or the Volvo. I'm in Chicago area and heating time seems normal.
My build date was 6/04 and I picked it up 8/30/04.
I get the occaisional brake squeek if it's damp but it's only the first use.
It's comfortable, quiet, and fun enough but not so fast, so you can have fun and still fly below the radar.
My only complaint is that despite the great tightness and quality, I hear every little stone or piece of dirt that hits the car. In that regard it sounds tinny despite the overall quiet cruising. My Accord spoiled me in that area.
To the guy who's debating the 3 vs. the Matrix, they are both good cars, but there's nothing on the road that looks like a 3, anf the overall value and performance is better.
Thanks for reading.
Daryl

wrjoyce

A while back when the Mazada 3 first came out i test drove the vehicle and was very impressed except for one glaring defect. Road Noise. This past weekend I rented the car again and over all road types at speeds over 40 miles an hour, the cabin noise level was grating. Am I the only one that finds this a problem. I dont think it is the engine, I think it is insufficient sound proofing. I wanted to buy a Mazda 3 but just cant now. Any hope that this problem is being addressed. Or is it a design problem and more insulation will not remedite. I am not looking for defensive reactions from owners but a reality check and hope that someone knows that Mazada recognizes there is a problem and they are addressing it

el_bagador

i didn't find it to be a problem when i tested it (got it up to 90 mph). my ride now though is pretty noisy, so i'm probably used to it.

eoghan1

After reading comments about abraded paint in the wheel wells and on the rocker panels I am a bit paranoid as I hear sand and pebbles hitting the underside. I am aware of the rest of the noise such as some thumping in the suspension and the buzz from the exhaust but I don't find it that objectionable. On a good highway I found cruising to be surprisingly smooth for a small light car. Previous car was a Taurus and I am satisfied with the trade off of some handling in place of the taurus's kind of mushy ride.

jts

I recognized that the gravel noise in the wheel wells was going to be annoying, so when I was having the snow tires put on (I live in Calgary Alberta) I took the opportunity to buy rubberized ashphalt undercoating in a spray can a local automotive store and sprayed it in the wheel wells when the car was on the hoist. I've done this on previous cars and it does cut down on the noise and damage. It's also cheap at less than $10. The alternative is to have the whole car undercoated, but I'm not a fan of that as it's only as good as the installer.

jrct9454

Yep, no question, this car has road noise as a major weakness. It's the first thing I noticed on our rental 3. I too would probably seriously consider the car but for this characteristic.

And yes, no question, it has a lot to do with what you're used to. Still, the Corolla is much better in this respect, the Civic not so - Honda has always had this as a weakness, as well, all through their model lineup up to and including the '96 RL we enjoyed for some years. Some makers, especially Toyota, pay a lot of attention to this issue, and others don't. Many people aren't bothered, of course, but yes, I noticed it too.

mdaffron

Keep in mind, ladies and gents, that a prime factor in road noise is TIRES. Goodyear Eagle RSAs are noisy tires.

Meade

el_bagador

any recommendations for good all-weather's that aren't noisy? who makes the rubberized spray stuff...if i ask for it at a store, will they know what i'm talking about?

z71bill

Is called undercoat - you can buy it at almost any auto parts store - it normally comes in a spray can - but I have seen a product that you can brush on. But -

I would not spray this crap on my car - it will really not make much of a difference in the noise level and more important than that - it will cause the metal under it to rot out. I know that is what this stuff is designed to PREVENT - but I have seen dozens of cars that had this treatment put on and the result was more - not less corrosion.

megawattblues

The road noise was obvious to me at first, having traded in an '02 Highlander. I didn't notice the road noise during the test drive when the roads were wet, and wet roads seem to either quiet or mask the noise to me.

 

I now have my winter tires on, and the noise is there - probably even more so. But I got used to it, and it doesn't bother me at all. I went into this from the economy car angle, and feel I came out ahead in a lot of areas. Maybe if I got an Acura or something like that, then I'd be more picky about it.

 

BTW, I have a hatch - I wonder - is the sedan quieter?

waygrabow

On the first tank full of gas in my Mazda3S, it achieved 30mpg. EVERY fill-up since then has shown even better gas mileage. It quickly jumped to 32-33mpg, then 35mpg and beyond. Now that winter is here, recent mileage on the past couple tankfulls has dropped down to 35mpg. I routinely drive at least 400 miles between fill-ups. When Consumer's Reports tested the Mazda3, they said it has the best fuel efficiency of any non-hybrid, non-diesel they had tested. They got 40mpg on the highway. So it isn't just me; I am surprised not to read more reports of excellent fuel efficiency. It is possible that an undersized A/C helps increase mpg.

 

Next week I have an appointment for the 12-month, 15,000 mile service; so I've been driving this vehicle for awhile. As far as road noise; I notice it on certain surfaces, and it's quiet on other surfaces. Certainly, it is not as quiet as our Audi, but still it's a very enjoyable car to drive and costs much less. I would guess that the hatch, especially with 17" wheels would have more road noise.

backy

That is great mpg. FWIW, CR tested the 3i with the 2.0L engine.

jts

I agree with you about fully undercoating a vehicle, my obsevations over the years has been that in too many cases poor cleaning or application leads to water or even salt water being trapped between the undercoat and the body leading to premature corrosion. I have seen successful cases but I wouldn't use it even though it does cut down on a lot of rad noise. I live in an area where a lot of gravel is used on the roads in the winter. On cars like the "3" where the factory undercoating is let's say limited ( and there's lots of other) it often results not only in gravel noise but you actually will strip off paint and/or undercoating in the wheel wells. What I do is carefully apply a light to medium caot of spray undercoating, usually in the rear wells only on only the metal parts that the gravel is likely to come in contact with as it flies off the tires. If one is prudent where you apply it (take the wheels off and cover the brakes and floor in case it drips) it sets in only a few minutes, and it will soften the gravel noise and protect the vulnerable parts of the wheel wells. Chances are the gravel will wear this away after a winter or two and reapplication will be needed. The brand I used this time was Bondo. I keep my cars a long time this has helped prevent rust in the wheel wells from gravel. Again, I agree putting that stuff all over the underneath of the car I have never done for the above reasons.

big_guy

Unfortunatley, the key to reducing noise in the cabin of a car is not coating the underside of the vehicle with rubber. To isolate noise you need to add MASS. In order to get good sound attenuation inside the vehicle you need to get more dense material between you and the source of the noise. In an economy sports sedan with a small displacement engine, weight is the enemy and you try to keep the vehicle as light as possible.

 

I would agree with other posters that the key to reducing noise, besides trying to make modifications to the vehicle, is to get some quieter rubber at the wheels.

kmh2468

quote: "any recommendations for good all-weather's that aren't noisy?"

 

Michelin Pilots all-season tires seem to get really good reviews on the online shops.

 

But to also add, I too believe the major source of the noise is not so much the lack of sound insulation since the vehicle is very quiet of smooth roads but the stock Goodyears are not the best in quietness.

 

Also, I switched my antenna out for a shorter "stubby" one and noticed a reduction in wind noise as well.

corystory

Hello, i have noticed that my automatic Mazda3 hatchback rev is at around 35000 rev when the car is at 80mph. My previous ford focus and honda accord were at around 30000rev at 80mph.

Is it normal? Thanks.

wrjoyce

Hi Mazda dealer tried to say that the car i rented from Hertz inwhich i complained about road noise was an i and that the more upscale models would be quieter. I asked how and he could not explain. Maybe there are quieter tires on the other models. Any suggestions. Would like to buy the 3 but cant until the road noise is reduced

backy

Easy way to find out--go down and drive a 3s. You wouldn't buy one without driving it first anyway, right?

eoghan1

I have 5 speed but they are likely to be the same final drive ratio.

3500 is about what I have experienced. I figure that is how you get some of the zoom zoom we all like.

corystory

Thanks :-)....oh, i should have one less 0 in my message. Love the car so far!

z71bill

The thing that is strange is my auto shifts to 4th gear as soon as I hit 20+ MPH (I am just driving easy - it holds gears longer when I am pushing it) -

 

so 4th gear takes me from 21 MPH all the way up to 116 (or whatever top end is)

 

Seems like a 5th gear would be a nice addition to the Mazda3.