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Regards to all.
If - as many posts have stated - the problems are limited to early production models - then - Mazda has made some changes to resolve the defective system. They must know what the problem is - and they could - if they care at all about customer satisfaction - replace the defective parts on the early production models. They will not do this because it will cost them money.
Mazda VS Toyota - Mazda says they have a 4 year 50K mile bumper to bumper warranty - VS Toyota 3 years 36K mile. (Toyota does have a longer power train warranty) The difference is Toyota actually stands behind the warranty and will fix the problem - Mazda will not fix my defective car - and it has not even been 12 months.
I would take a 3/36 warranty from Toyota - over a 50 year - 1,000,000 mile warranty from Mazda - a warranty does not do you much good if every problem is considered normal - within spec.
To be fair, I have heard many stories that contradict that statement.
But I agree with your general point 100%, a warranty is not good if it doesn't fix "problems".
Seems to happen almost everyday on the first few 1-2 shifts. If this was the only problem I would say it was normal - but
I also get a very harsh 1-2 shift that happens every once in a while. I will be driving along - stop at a red light - then when I take off I get a surprise CLUNK! - so harsh that I take my foot off the gas - the chance of ever having the service department duplicate this problem is ZERO.
I have also noticed a harsh 1-2 shift - after the car has warmed up - I notice this most when driving slow - like in a school zone. It seems like the same clunk that happens first thing in the morning - but far less harsh that the major clunk I get every few weeks. When this happens it will repete the problem 5 or more times in a row - as long as I am going slow. If I step hard on the gas from a dead stop the 1-2 shift is smooth.
For a while I thought the problem had something to do with the load (weight) in the car - I seemed to notice it more after I filled the car up with gas - or when I went from 1 to 4 people in the car. Like the tranny had to adjust for the weight difference. But I am not so sure about this now. Seems more random.
I too ask my dealer about it - they had no information from Mazda - so it is considered normal. Just another example of poor customer service from Mazda.
1. Front Mask (Bra). Had it on previous car and it looked good and protected from paint chips.
2. Paint protection/polishing ie. Ziebart or like company offers these which sounds like it would protect the paint and keep it shining without my labour for waxing.
Opinions/experiences would be appreciated.
The only thing I know for sure is if you think a part is worth $25 chances are if it is a dealer only item it will cost $75.
I once paid $45 for a single lug nut for a Toyota. No one stocked this part and my only choice was the dealer.
I have also seen very large differences between two dealers on the same part - driver side window on a Nissan PU - one dealership wanted $350 - another sold it to me for about $100. I was "lucky" that the $350 dealership did not have it in stock - otherwise I would have not even bothered to check - thinking that every dealership would charge about the same price.
For example, I do not buy aftermarket products at a dealership. Tires are the best example of this. Dealerships offer a limited choice and seem to raise prices dramatically for no apparent reason. Tire specialists and retail chains featuring specials seem to be one's best bet, but, in the end it's up to us to do our homework.
Another example, was my air filter. Providing you can find the right model you may or may not save money on this. I was rather surprised that a auto retail chain that I frequent charged a little more than the dealer for the Fram air filter my Protege5 uses.
A more important concern is the validity of the part in the eyes of the company's warranty. Consider whether the aftermarket part you will be installing is worth the headache. For many maintenance items there likely is no impact but this could be the downside for any serious "improvements" (turbo kits, new suspensions, etc.) one is considering.
Good thing about Mazda is its reliability, so replacement apart from maintenance parts should be minimized.
I don't know much but believe the quality of the application would make a difference. You can get
an impression by calling around. i.e. some want to keep the car overnight to wash and prep it. some will do it in your driveway (not good). Some apply it in more numerous smaller pieces while others stretch larger pieces to cover a bigger area. I understand that can cause puckering etc. I suggest you do a search by subject and get opinions on edmunds. Here are a couple more vendor sites http://www.xpel.com/,,,,,http/ultimateautobra.com/wst_page2.html
I, like many Mazda3 owners, have a problem with excessive brake dust on the rear wheels. I've been able to ignore it, clean it, etc, for about a year, but I'm curious as to whether Mazda has released any fixes for the problem? Also, I was told that the bigger problem might be the development of grooves on the rear rotors. Honestly, I'm not sure what counts as "excessive." The rear rotors on my car (3s sedan, build date 10/03, 9,200 miles) aren't smooth - they do have some texture as you run your finger from the center out - but I don't know how smooth I should expect them to be.
My dealer (San Francisco) tends to be skeptical of items he considers to be normal wear, and I'm not sure how long I can own the car before any problem gets classified as "normal" rather than "a problem from the start." So, I'd like to know if anyone has had luck in getting this issue fixed?
Thanks!
everfeb
I have the 2.3 sedan with the auto - this summer it was getting 16-17 MPG with 75% city/ 25 Highway - since the temps have cooled off I am now getting about 19 MPG.
I don't care that much about the gas cost because I don't drive that many miles - but needing to get gas every 220 or so miles kind of stinks.
Most of these products (if not all) use a 3M adhesive for their film. The companies that you see touting the clear paint protection films are essentially independent cutters/installers of the films. Clear Shield for example computer cuts and installs and Avery product. I had mine don by Ultra Shield which uses 3M's latest film.
All the installers will pretty much say that their product is better than the other guys for one reason or another. I went with 3M because I could find the most data and consumer reviews about the product. Their film has a good rep overall. 3M has also been doing this the longest (they initially developed a version of the film for military purposes 2 or 3 decades ago).
I had the bumper, grill, hood, and side mirrors done for about $500. Many of the complaints (every manufacturer has has them) about 3M's product have apparently been addressed as of the 2004 SEMA show, where they unveiled the latest version of their film, SGPPF6. I think the SG stands for "Stone Guard"; I believe the original marketing name of the product. PPF no doubt stands for "Paint Protection Film". '6' is probably the version number.
I can only distinguish the line on my hood from the where the film ends from 5 feet away or less (my car is dark gray). I do believe the expertise of your installer is an X factor. The guy I had, has been at it for a while. Although he's still not done a 3 hatch yet, he did a great job.
The value of these kits is debateable and is subjective to some extend. I've heard about the 3 getting chipped easily and I'm personally happy with the investment. My confirmation on this... before I got the film put on, I already had a chip on the hood after only 1 week of driving.
I've done several highway only mileage checks and a few times couldn't even match the "around town" EPA # of 24 MP(US) gal never mind the 32mpg highway #. And I am not a leadfoot. I usually drive highway 65-70mph no A/C with cruise on.
I am quite disappointed with my mileage. But then I do have that 10/03 build date which seems to be the most problematic of the 3's built to date.
everfeb
Wow! Did you question your dealer about the price difference? Did you wonder about their other prices and service charges? Low price does not equal value in all cases but when there is a clear comparison (part A = part A) then one begins to wonder about the reputation of the dealer.
I recently had a positive experience at my Mazda dealership when I brought in my car to solve the clackity-clack noise my wheels were making since I had my brakes serviced two weeks prior. After a short wait a mechanic rode the car for a couple of minutes and diagnosed the sound to the flexing of my snug plastic wheelcovers against the wheel. He applied some grease and presto I was out of there riding on a smile. An example of a dealership that understands that by keeping their customers happy they keep their customers.
Before buying the Mazda3 we used our Chevy Tahoe (5.3L V8) to drive the same miles that we now drive in the Mazda3 - the Tahoe was almost always just a shade over 15 MPG. The EPA rates the Tahoe at 14/18 city/highway.
I did one tank that was 100% highway - in no hurry - set the cruise at 65 - and got 29.7 MPG -which is better than the EPA highway rating of 29.
I thought about asking my dealer about the poor MPG - I have made 9 trips to the dealership for other problems, so I have had my chance - but since Mazda will not even fix my grinding rear brakes or defective AC system it is hard for me to even think that they would put any effort into solving a problem with low MPG.
FYI - my build date is 10/03 -
We don't care for the red instrument lights. I used Mobil 1 previously but note Mazda doesn't recommend it??
I'm 95% happy with my car. My mileage varies from 22.6 to 29, if I'm on the highway a lot. My driving is about 50/50 city /hwy. The mileage is extremely sensitive to hard driving, but I can get very close to 300 to a tank if go a little easy.
I've had no quality issues at all. The brake dust is very light on the rear, but I wash it when I do my wife's Volvo wheels. Now there's some serious brake dust!
Check engine light went on when I didn't tighten the gas cap and it lit up a sensor. Dealer wasn't pleased, but I didn't buy it from them.
I dopn't notice any difference in how long it takes to warm up the interior from my previous "94 Accord or the Volvo. I'm in Chicago area and heating time seems normal.
My build date was 6/04 and I picked it up 8/30/04.
I get the occaisional brake squeek if it's damp but it's only the first use.
It's comfortable, quiet, and fun enough but not so fast, so you can have fun and still fly below the radar.
My only complaint is that despite the great tightness and quality, I hear every little stone or piece of dirt that hits the car. In that regard it sounds tinny despite the overall quiet cruising. My Accord spoiled me in that area.
To the guy who's debating the 3 vs. the Matrix, they are both good cars, but there's nothing on the road that looks like a 3, anf the overall value and performance is better.
Thanks for reading.
Daryl
And yes, no question, it has a lot to do with what you're used to. Still, the Corolla is much better in this respect, the Civic not so - Honda has always had this as a weakness, as well, all through their model lineup up to and including the '96 RL we enjoyed for some years. Some makers, especially Toyota, pay a lot of attention to this issue, and others don't. Many people aren't bothered, of course, but yes, I noticed it too.
Meade
I would not spray this crap on my car - it will really not make much of a difference in the noise level and more important than that - it will cause the metal under it to rot out. I know that is what this stuff is designed to PREVENT - but I have seen dozens of cars that had this treatment put on and the result was more - not less corrosion.
I now have my winter tires on, and the noise is there - probably even more so. But I got used to it, and it doesn't bother me at all. I went into this from the economy car angle, and feel I came out ahead in a lot of areas. Maybe if I got an Acura or something like that, then I'd be more picky about it.
BTW, I have a hatch - I wonder - is the sedan quieter?
Next week I have an appointment for the 12-month, 15,000 mile service; so I've been driving this vehicle for awhile. As far as road noise; I notice it on certain surfaces, and it's quiet on other surfaces. Certainly, it is not as quiet as our Audi, but still it's a very enjoyable car to drive and costs much less. I would guess that the hatch, especially with 17" wheels would have more road noise.
I would agree with other posters that the key to reducing noise, besides trying to make modifications to the vehicle, is to get some quieter rubber at the wheels.
Michelin Pilots all-season tires seem to get really good reviews on the online shops.
But to also add, I too believe the major source of the noise is not so much the lack of sound insulation since the vehicle is very quiet of smooth roads but the stock Goodyears are not the best in quietness.
Also, I switched my antenna out for a shorter "stubby" one and noticed a reduction in wind noise as well.
Is it normal? Thanks.
3500 is about what I have experienced. I figure that is how you get some of the zoom zoom we all like.
so 4th gear takes me from 21 MPH all the way up to 116 (or whatever top end is)
Seems like a 5th gear would be a nice addition to the Mazda3.