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Comments
After living with this issue since buying my Mazda3 in January 2004 - I feel qualified to offer this expert opinion - If you have any doubt about the AC performance during a test drive of the Mazda3 then you should - RUN RUN RUN - while you can. Mazda will not fix this problem - as long as it blows cool air they consider it operating within specification.
I still remember taking some co workers out to lunch back when my car was only a few months old - by the time we got back to the office we were all hot and sweaty - leave it to your friends to give it to you straight - one guy said - next time we go lets take my car - it has an AC that works. His car was an old beat up Honda.
That bulletin is for the 2004's. there is no bulletin for a/c problems for the 2005's yet. 2 dealerships i went to in my area will not apply the 2004 tsb to a 2005 mazda3.
so i'm going to take a look if my 2005 3i has the diffuser preinstalled by the factory. (it's in a panel by the passenger side footwell.)
btw- i used a digital thermometer. my a/c never went below 44 degrees farenheit. unfortunately, if it's below 45 degrees, it's within specs, and the dealership will not fix. (both told me that)
It would be interesting to know if they put the $.99 diffuser on the 2005 model.
Can you post exactly where this panel is located - and how it comes apart - I have looked before - I almost took the panel off that is located under the glove box - I thought that maybe that was how I could get to the evaporator. I thought that maybe it was part way covered up with some trash so that the air flow is restricted. But I did not want to mess anything up.
:shades:
Loren
by s0seng02
I will say Mazda has turned out some very sharp looking vehicles over the last 5 years or so. The Trib, Protege, MPV, 3, and 6 all are terrific looking vehicles.
What's the build date on these '05s that are having problems? Mine rolled off the line in the end of February.
I ask because I was at the dealership yesterday (oil change), and I took a stroll through the lot. I was surprised to find that most of the '05s on the lot had build dates of October and November 2004.
Sure, you may have an '05, but did your car get built in '05? Maybe the fix I'm enjoying was implemented more recently than your build date.
Meade
I am really wanting to buy one of these, but apprehensive because of the AC issues.
Thanks
Mazda 3s 5 door, build date 3/10/2005 (Obviously just off the boat)
The car is FULLY loaded with NAV, ABS, Moon/6 DISC, Xenon, Leather, Homelink Mirror, ect.
I thought that I would throw a little more information into the pool, here goes:
Likes:
Love the appearance as well as all the little things (like the interior lights turning on when the door opens and when the car is turned off, or the hatch versatility with compartments)
The car feels like a high performance car, especially once on the open road.
The car handles very well, and you can feel all 160hp.
Visibility in the hatch is excellent.
Moonroof Deflector reduces the noise tremendously
Navigation is awesome in this car, and very comprehensive for the rural areas we travel in.
Headlights are incredibly bright which is useful in the canyon driving we do
Issues:
I have the Goodyear RSA Tires. Run a little rough, but getting better with miles
Most miles are open highway (2 lights), best MPG 31.2
In town around 22 MPG
Again, both are getting better as the engine gets some miles on it
The seals on the two rear doors seem to be poor quality in design, but maybe I am the only one that noticed this. Hopefully over the years they will hold up.
The foot rest for the driver is covered with carpet...that makes no sense to me
Why does the gas cap not have a resting spot when you are filling up...I hate to see it dangle!
These are all the small things,
One big issue, as mentioned several times before me, the A/C is weak in my car.
Undoubtedly, cold air comes from the vents, with the flow on each setting at an appropriate level. However, the car never cools down, which is not a good thing in the southern San Joaquin Valley. I have 3% tint on the rear 5 windows and my car looks like a cave on the inside, yet it still never cools down, only gets to around the outside ambient temp. I plan to go to the dealer next week. I will let you know if they are able to fix it. One last note, I can hear the condenser turning on two to three times a minute, even at night...I have no idea is this is normal or appropriate.
Lastly, just want to reinforce that I love this car, and that for me it was the best in the market. When else can you pay 21000 before TTL and get features that belong on a 30000...certainly not from the Carolla, and there is NO performace feel with the twins. Lets not even bother mentioning what susuki has to offer!
The condenser is in front of and kind of looks like a radiator.
But really if this is what you must do in order to get the AC in a car to cool then IMO it means you have a very weak AC system. I have owned many vehicles - I could get in any one of them - turn the AC on max and within a few minutes (3-4) the vehicle is cool and I could turn the fan speed down. I can not imagine rolling my windows down and driving for at least 5 minutes before turning on the AC.
I live in Houston which has high humidity - and that does make it harder for an AC system to cool down a car. It is "normal" in Houston to get in your car at 7:00 AM - the outside temp is only 70 degrees and the first thing you do is turn on the AC because if you don't by the time you get to work it will feel like you need to take another shower.
Meade
Do you think you should NEED to drive with the windows down for AT LEAST 5 MINUTES - maybe we have discovered why you think the AC is acceptable - you have really really low standards.
IMO if the AC is so weak you need to do this then you have a :lemon:
I didn't do it last Sunday, when my wife, my four-year-old son and I got back in my car on a hot asphalt parking lot where it had been parked for four hours in the 90-degree sun. Even with the windows up (my wife doesn't like her hair blown around), I had to turn the thermostat UP after about five minutes.
Geesh, stop being so thick-headed and go buy your Honda.
Meade
It just means that YOU probably dont live in an area that reaches 120 degrees outside.
If you leave your windows closed in that kind of weather the temperature inside the car is/feels 120 degrees and hotter. It feels theres a gigantic blow dryer on the Hi heat setting inside and outside the car. Try using ac when the air is that hot with the windows up, it will take a long time to cool down your car.
I am considering a Honda - want to look at the new 2006 Civic - the Accord is always a possibility - we like the coupe - hate the sedan - wife likes 4 doors.
We tested a TSX - nice car but seems over priced - $30K for a 4 banger is hard to justify - I will say the AC in the TSX does blow ICE COLD AIR - and I did not even have to drive around with the windows down for 5 minutes.
Also waiting for the 2006 IS 250 - the reviews look very good - but it is hard to tell until you can get behind the wheel.
Plan on taking a second test drive of the BMW 325 - they have some real good deals on the old body style -
But wait - is the knowledge that cars get really really hot something that only a few people know about? Don't you think that anyone that is designing a car - that they plan to sell in a place that has temps of 120 degrees - would be smart enough to put in an AC system that will cool the car off - Maybe someone should send Mazda an E-mail!
Driving around for AT LEAST 5 MINUTES BEFORE you even turn on the AC (your post said "we had temps into the low 100's" ) is proof you have a weak AC system - you can't spin it any other way.
In addition, the feel of a breeze on my face makes a BIG difference. The still air in a car that hasn't cooled down yet is a recipe for lots of sweating. Even if my AC could blow Arctic air at high volumes instantaneously I would still leave the windows down for a few minutes. I'm just not the kind of person that likes running my AC. I have never, ever set my AC on max volume and doubt I ever will.
Dammit Bill, read your freakin' manual.
Mazda (like many other cars) recommends starting off with the a/c ON, but in the "fresh" air position and the windows partially open, to evacuate the hot air out of the car. Then, after a few minutes, they recommend switching over to "recirculate" and putting the windows up to begin recirculating the air through the system. Nowhere does it state anything about "driving around for AT LEAST 5 MINUTES BEFORE you even turn on the AC".
Bill, I don't understand why you think this is some kind of vendetta Mazda has against people who live in hot places. Let's see ... here are a few quick hits from Google:
First we have the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE, the organization most all U.S. mechanics are part of). Ya heard of 'em?:
To get the most efficiency from your A/C system, it's best to cool off a hot car by lowering the windows slightly, turning the A/C to "NORMAL" or "OUTSIDE AIR" and putting the blower on a medium speed. This takes outside air, cools it, and forces the hotter air inside the car out through the open windows. Once the air in the car has cooled down to a more comfortable temperature, switch to "RECIRCULATE" or "MAX" so the system can take the already cooled inside air and recirculate it through the A/C evaporator so it will gradually get colder and colder. You can then make yourself comfortable by adjusting the blower speed. This procedure will cool your car quicker, keep it cooler, and even save you some gas by not causing the system to run continuously.
Gets pretty doggoned hot in India, from what I've read. Well, here's a tip from India Car, a motoring website in Hot Hot Hot India:
The best way to get the temperature down quickly is to keep the circulation switch on ‘fresh’, or roll down the windows a little, which lets the hot air escape. Then roll up the windows, turn the circulation switch to recirculate, and pop the AC switch. This way the hot air is evacuated faster and the cabin is cooled quickly.
Crikey, it gets pretty doggone hot in Queensland, Australia, too, mate! Here's a tip from the Honda Owner's Association of Queensland:
When you get into a hot car, open the windows and leave the fan on high and the vent on 'fresh' until it cools down a bit. This will flush the hot air out of the cabin. When the temperature equalises, close the windows and switch to 'recirculate' for best results. Familiarise yourself with the car owners handbook to help you figure out the controls.
Now, is that proof enough from several sources worldwide, or do I need to come over there and beat you senseless with my owner's manual??? :sick:
Meade
SO, I'll just ask that those with differing opinions refrain from lacing their posts with personal jabs towards others.
Thanks for your cooperation.
The more time the air spends going through the evaporator core, the colder it will get and the less power it will use, so don't use a higher fan speed than necessary to keep you comfortable.
This is very, very true of the Mazdas I've had too. Bill, if you're trying to cool your car down at the highest fan setting, you may find (as I have) that fan speed 3 (sometimes even 2) provides colder air.
Meade
Meade
The key here is HOW LONG SHOULD YOU HAVE TO KEEP THE WINDOWS DOWN - I say 5 MINUTES is WAY to long.
What amount of time is reasonable?
IMO - 30 seconds - 1 minute max.
This morning it was in the low 80’s and when I turned on the AC (level 2) it nearly froze my fingers. This was after about 20 seconds, non-recirc mode. This was coming out of my garage so my interior temp did not have time to heat up.
If anybody knows where to check the AC compressor model I’ll check to see if there is any discrepancy between my 2005 and any of the 2004’s.
Something has to be different, mine works really well; even up to our highest temp so far of 102F.
This way people with the non-functioning AC’s can say “give me the B model”
Do you live in Texas, and own a black on black 3 with a moonroof?
The Navajo that I just traded-in on the purchase of a 3 was black, as was a Firebird that my wife formerly owned. Both of those vehicles took much longer to cool than lighter colored vehicles that we've owned. The Navajo actually used to release pressure from the compressor occasionally, until a mechanic set the pressure release valve to the proper specs.
Just wondering how many Mazda dealers you've taken your car to with the AC problem? It might be beneficial to keep looking for one that can identify and repair the problem.
A poorly functioning AC in Texas is beyond an inconvenience.
Two different dealerships - same story from both - they see what I mean - that the system is weak - but it is within Mazda specs - nothing they can do.
Now at first I thought $*&%$#@*&^% Mazda :lemon:
When I got home I tried the fan a few times to see if it would work - if I have the engine off so it is quiet and turn the fan on low speed I can hear a rapid clicking noise - like the fan blades are hitting something.
I wonder if maybe this break down could help to get my AC problem solved. Is it possible something is blocking part of my evaporator from the fan side? Preventing complete air flow could sure lower the capacity.
Does anyone know how to get to the fan motor & fan?
Loren
She mentioned to the VW master mechanic that I had bought a Mazda 3. He said, "don't buy one." She asked why. He responded that he "would be out of
business because the Mazda doesn't need the repair work a VW needs."
I guess I've been fortunate with our prior Mazda vehicles - all work covered by the warranty has been performed by various dealers with no hassles.
I had a Nissan PU that always got leaves stuck in the fan - 3 screws to remove & less than 5 minutes later my problem was solved. That fan was about the size of a coffee can - on high speed it would mess up my wife's hair - But boy did it ever cool off fast.
I would like to see the inside of the Mazda3 cooling system - maybe I could see an air gap or some other defect that is causing my problem.
The sound could just be the bearings going out of the fan motor - in this case I wish it would just stop working - I would rather have a complete failure - the sometimes it works - sometimes it doesn't usually means more that one trip to the dealer.
lvhatchbk - not counting regular maintenance I made 12 trips (between two different dealerships) in the first year. I also called customer service (not sure why they call it that because the provide NO service to customers) many times - and also sent several E-mails. Mazda could not care less about service after the sale.
The Big Shot rocks!
I finally got sick of domestic vehicles....had a Ford Festiva way back when, and in the last 8 years, a Plymouth Neon, and 2 Jeeps...after many probs with the Neon, and the 2 Jeeps,I decided on another car, and got a 2005 Mazda 3, and I love it!!!
Now I have a couple of questions: Is there a break-in period? I noticed that I'm getting only about 27 miles a gallon at the moment...total mileage on the car is 2700km
Another thing I noticed, hopefully nothing major, in the morning, when I first leave the house, and it goes from 1st to 2nd gear, it seems a little rough, but afterwards it's fine...should I worry about it?
Thanks
If I am driving slow - like taking off from a stop sign in a school zone the 1-2 upshift is very harsh - if I am driving hard it normally is smooth. This seems a little bit backwards - but I am no expert on auto trannys.
I had it in to the dealer and they said it was "normal" but the Mazda6 had a similar ISSUE and that Mazda came out with a tranny re program - where they update the computer program that controls the shifts. My service manager said he thought Mazda would eventually come out with an update for the 3 - but he could not guarantee anything. Individual dealerships can not re program the computer - that must come from Mazda.
It is SOP for Mazda to claim - no problem - everything is normal - even if they know of the problem and are working on a fix.
27 MPG sounds GREAT to me - I am only getting a little over 19 MPG in mostly city driving. With the EPA range of 24/29 - 27 sounds about normal.
The first tank of gas in the MZ3 did about 22 mpg all city. I hope this will improve with time as the car breaks in.
Havent had much trouble with gear shifts although on occasion I have noticed a hesitation in response to the gas pedal - curious because this is not a consistent problem - most of the time it flies out of the blocks. Mentioned it to the service dept and they said they had not heard of this previously.
That's good to hear. Some in this forum act as if this is not welcome news, I think you are speaking for the silent majority.
p.s. my three year old Mazda Protege (predecessor to the 3) has been flawless and the service to date has been highly satisfactory
What does schedules maintenance cover in the first 7,000 or so miles -maybe an oil change and a tire rotation - WOW - what service - Mazda really has a great dealer network - they can do maintenance on the cars they sell. LOOK they can drain the old oil out of a car and fill it up with new oil - they even know how to install a new oil filter - they can switch the front and rear wheels - watch out Lexus Mazda is catching up.
What about the defective AC system?
OR
The grinding rear brakes
OR
The Harsh shifting Tranny
Any dealer solved these DEFECTS YET?
I didn't think so -
I agree. By trying to belittle others, his own cause is diminished. Legitimate grievances should be aired; but being unreasonable or unfair or sarcastic does not further one's case.
It is getting to the point that I'm starting to feel sorry for the staff of the Mazda call centre!