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BTW, kyfdx, I agree with you ... there are too many complaints for it not to be a real problem. But I'm perplexed here. The car is within specs. So what is the problem?
Meade
Gee.. I thought I put that in there..
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I did a search at a forum devoted to car air conditioning and found a guy complaining about his a/c cycling too often, and he mentioned that the outside temperature was about 70 degrees. Here's the response he got from an a/c expert:
"It's possibly just fine! 70F ambient is a bit cool and system can and will cycle to protect it from freezing up the evaperator. Try again when warmer out. Open doors and set full blast cold - cycling should stop and output temps should be mid 40s give or take depending on how hot it is. The sight glass and output temps are the real story. It is possible to be a tad low on refrigerant but not by much. Check again on a warmer day."
Your air conditioner will work better on a 90-degree day than it will on a 70-degree day, my friends! If it's only in the 70s, there are four switches on your driver's door that should take care of any climate-control needs.
Meade
You just agreed that there is a problem (too many complaints to not be real.. remember).. and, you agreed that 42 degrees should be cold enough to cool any car..
I think it is obvious that if the air is cold enough, then the only problem could be that it isn't running long enough..
Obviously the compressor has to cycle on and off.. My suggestion is that it cycles off too often..
Seems simple..
Unless you don't agree that there is a problem.
regards,
kyfdx
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Again, the system is operating per specs.
The "problem" I'm referring to is unrelated to the a/c, since obviously it's running within specs! I'm wondering if the 2004s maybe had a windshield material that didn't block enough UV rays, causing the driver to feel warm all the time ... something like that. Or it's not tinted enough to keep the top of the dash from acting like a hot stone all the time.
No, after what several of you have said about the temperature of the air coming out of the vents, it's painfully obvious that the a/c system is running perfectly. The problem lies elsewhere. When you guys will realize this and expand your thinking a little, we may come to the bottom of what's causing this.
Tell me, do you have a moonroof in your car? If so, do you keep the shade closed when the a/c is on?
Meade
This must be my lucky day. First I agree with something posted by mdaffron (BTW good catch on the spelling - wonder why spell check didn't flag it?) and now you. I need to go buy a LOTTO ticket.
I looked at the forms I needed to fill out to get a Lemon law started in TX. I didn't even bother to print them out - what a pain.
:shades:
Not that I advocate threatening your dealer, or even being rude. I usually find the nicer I am to the dealers when I have a problem, the quicker the problem gets resolved (my wife is usually the “bad cop” when things get ugly).
I believe that there are little “tricks” that dealers use to bypass these processes as well. Like keeping poor records of the problem, returning the car to the customer even though they know it is not fixed so the car is not “out of commission” for more than one day. Like keeping an “open” service request for one item instead of closing it and reopening another once the car is returned for the same problem.
BTW, I received a “lemon law” booklet with the purchase of my Mazda. The salesman briefly went over it and said before it came to it (however unlikely) that he and the manager would do everything possible to correct any problems. Until I see otherwise, I take that for what it’s worth, a salesman line.
Terrible situation to be “stuck” with.
I also doubt that is the case...
A test in a garage with the car idling may be very different than what happens in real world driving..
Many of the posters with A/C problems state that warm air is coming out of their vents.. It is only in the controlled environment of the mechanic's garage later, that they are measuring air temperatures "within specs".
Ever tell a service advisor that you have a bad shimmy at 70 MPH? Sorry sir, we can't duplicate that... We aren't allowed to break the law on a test drive. I'm guessing that most of the "testing" done on the A/C would come out differently, if they parked the car outside all day, then tried it.. Or even, rode around the block with the owner, while doing the measurements..
regards,
kyfdx
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If you don't want to spend your own money, then take it to a completely different Mazda dealership and get them to check it under warranty.
Is anyone going to answer my question about the moonroof? You know, UV rays coming through that glass can really make you feel hot, even if the shade is closed -- they just beat down on the top of the shade, which is only inches from you.
I don't have a/c problems -- I also don't have a moonroof.
I'm trying to be constructive here and examine all possibilities, gentlemen.
Meade
I have an AC system that will not cool my car.
Mazda says my AC is within spec -
Then Mazda issues a TSB to fix defective AC systems in the Mazda3
I take my car in - Mazda claims my AC "has the problem" and agrees to install a diffusser - per the TSB
My AC shows no improvement
Then Mazda says my AC is within spec.
The reason the compressor shuts off is because a set pressure is reached - (pressure of refrigerant corresponds to temperature) when this pressure is reached the evaporator - I assume - is designed to be close to / slightly below 32 degrees. Since you don't want the evaporator temp to be below freezing - because then ice would form preventing any air flow and reduce the cooling to zero - the compressor shuts off - until the pressure again reaches another set number - then the compressor turns back on. But - Most systems have a delay built in between each off / on cycle - the delay is to allow the pressure to equalize between the low and high side of the system - starting the compressor before the high side pressure (somewhere north of 300 pounds) comes down would make the compressor "start up under load" which means it would be pushing against 300 pounds of pressure.
Since air was only being directed at part of the evaporator two things were happening - both bad - first only a % of the capacity of the evaporator was being used and second - the compressor kept shutting off even though the car is still hot (because part of the evaporator had no warm air hitting it - it got cold - which ment the set pressure was being reached - so the compressor would shut down)
So the cold - cool - warm air cycle many Mazda3 owners feel is caused by these issues.
Bottom line - poorly designed system - poor air flow - hard to fix "the right way" because it would require complete redesign of HVAC system. Mazda solution - stick on a $.25 plastic vent and proclaim the system to be "operating within Mazda spec"
backy - I think you are correct - this air flow problem also effects the defrosting capacity.
Meade
I have a 2003 6i and the AC will freeze you out, and I live in Central Florida where we use AC year round. The current weather is upper 80's to low 90's with lots of humidity.
I posted this a couple weeks ago but want to restate it. I had the AC fan/temp control module replaced on my 2002 Protege because the AC would cut out on fan speed 2. Afterwards, the AC performance was noticeably weaker and was barely keeping the car cool at 80 degrees. I went back in and complained. They were able to fix it with a cable adjustment. It made a huge difference in the AC performance.
Has anyone with AC issues on a 3 had them check or adjust the cable for the control module? Might be worth a try.
Joe
I am 99.9999% sure Mazda knows exactly what the problem is with the defective AC systems - they also know how much it would cost to fix the problem - they are making a calculated business decision - spend the extra million or so dollars to fix the problem or risk making a few customers mad. Since mad customers don't show up on the next quarters income statement - the decision is easy.
http://www.jcsaircon.co.jp/en/
Then I went Googling. JCSC is an affiliate of Matsushita Electric Corp. (Panasonic), based in Hiroshima where the Mazda3 is manufactured.
Note (on that page I linked above) that they started producing the a/c for the Mazda3 in August 2003, but only acquired ISO certification a year later ... hmmm ...
If you navigate around their site, you'll find some evidence that they also make a/c equipment for the Mazda6 and Ford ...
Meade
The link's kinda slow ... have patience ...
http://www.hitec.city.hiroshima.jp/ne/level7/ne3113.html
Meade
I searched the forums because I thought z71bill had mentioned the temp of his AC. The above was from a post by z71bill dated May 16 of last year. While he doesn't mention ambient temperature, he lives in TX and I live in GA. My test was done almost exactly one year after his. My ambient temp was 86F so I assume his was similar.
His AC did the same thing mine did; his went to 40F and mine went to 41F before the compressor cycled off. Mine, on the other hand only went to 50F before stabilizing at 46F.
The AC in my apartment doesn't work well; the temp is 59F and the volume is very low. My apartment never cools down.
Splitting the difference on z71bill's highest temp range listed above gives 56.5F. I can readily believe that a car with the AC at that level would have a hard time cooling down - even at maximum- what with all that glass letting the sun in.
Someone confirmed above that low-mid 40s is a good AC temperature. No wonder mine feels fine and bill's doesn't.
Does anyone else with AC problems know what the temp is coming out of your vents?
Jason
Someone please help!
Each year, J.D. Power and Associates surveys more than millions of consumers and rates auto manufactures on initial new car quality. Since quality ratings are based on research studies that survey a nationally representative sample of owners, the ratings are indicative of what typical buyers may experience. Mazda was rated 34 out of 35 manufactures with 149 complaints per 100 cars sold. Only Suzuki had more problems. Possibly the air conditioning problem in the Mazda3 contributes to their dismal ranking. Heck, even Volkswagen 147/100, KIA 140/100, Chevrolet 127/100 and Hyundai 110/100 are rated higher. Mazda might want to spend a bit more time screwing together their vehicles?
The sad thing is Mazda is not smart enough to figure out this simple fact - after all Mazda made the decision to both sell a car with a black interior AND also put a VERY WEAK (some would even call it defective) AC system in the Mazda3.
I am not sure what difference it makes - Are you saying that I should just use the car at night?
Try this - with the engine OFF open the hood and on the refrigerant line you will see a little blue cap with an "L" on it. This is the low side of the system. Slowly unscrew this cap - if you listen you will hear a small "PSSST" sound - that is refrigerant leaking. The cap on most AC systems is there to keep dirt out of the valve stem - not to keep refrigerant in the system.
Well, guess what. I was poking around under the hood of my 2005 Mazda3S wagon yesterday (putting in more washer fluid for the first time) and noticed the little blue cap. I cautiously unscrewed mine -- all the way.
No PSSST sound. No refrigerant leaking.
Maybe that's your problem -- and a simple one at that. You have a bad valve stem!
Meade
I pointed this out at one of my many trips to the dealership - and also talked directly with the tech who was working on my car - he assured me the refrigerant level was fine. I also checked the PSI myself and according to my gauges the level is fine. BTW - I can only here the PSSSST sound while I am unscrewing the little blue cap - so it is not a constant leak.
During one of my service visits they took all of the refrigerant out of the system - did some kind of a test - then refilled it with the required amount. So at that point I knew that the system was full - still had crummy performance.
I even - at one point thought that the low side sensor (I think it is called a pressure differential switch) was defective - so it was shutting the compressor off to soon - but the switch checked out fine.
Believe me it is much better now.
I am extremely happy with my Mazda 3 and I believe all of you are.
Did you notice a quick change - or was it small improvements over time?
If you look at Lexus with an average around 100 (making this up, not sure), that means that out of every 100 vehicles there is 1 problem.
If you look at Mazda 3 at 150 problems per 100 (making this up as well) that means that out of every 100 vehicles there are 1.5 problems.
While the Mazda may have 50% more problems it’s not like there are 10 things wrong with your car.
Most problems are not show stoppers, just annoyances. So for me, when I go to the dealer and I say “can you look at this one problem” or “can you look at this one problem, as well as this other problem” it really doesn’t matter as long as they fix it and that is the end of it.
If my transmission fell out that one problem would bother me much more than my glove box squeaking and my radio not tuning.
:shades:
:P
Is there a factory fix for this A/C issue??
http://www.jdpower.com/news/releases/pressrelease.asp?ID=2005069
JD Power does not "recommend" cars; it reports results of its surveys. The Mazda3 is recommended by CR with the lesser of its two possible recommendations. To earn the highest level of recommendation, it would need to do better on the IIHS side crash test.
I trust them about as far as I could eject them in an unbelted, non-air-bag-equipped 30-mph side-impact test between a Hummer and a Geo Metro.
You want some buyers-remorse therapy from some folks who really know cars? Here then:
http://www.mazda.com/product/mazda3/4a/2w/reputation.html
Meade
(Something in the back of my brain says (C*1.8) +32 =F)
Even my defective AC does better that that. My guess is your are low on refrigerant - but Mazda does have a bulliten #07-055/04 that will install a diffusser on your evaporator - it has helped a few people, but first they need to run a performance test (U0001XDX is the code for the test)
:shades:
Loren
1. It's especially bad when the car is stopped or moving slowly. This suggests that possibly the fan isn't moving enough air across the condenser by itself.
2. It's marginal even at high speeds. This could also mean low airflow over the condenser.
3. Don't be fooled by supply air temperature. Cooling capacity is proportional to temperature times air volume. At the very least, the Mazda service people need to measure the air temp at high fan speed. It's possible that there's just not enough airflow, period.
4. Is it worse in the hatchback? There's more surface area and more air to cool.
Other than this (which we just discovered and which we'll take up with the dealer next week), we're very happy with the car.
Steve H