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Hmmmm???
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I know this question it’s been around somewhere, but so far I couldn’t find the answer.
I have a small scuff/scratch in one of my rim (stock Mazda 3 aluminum wheel, NOT chrome) and I’m going to try to fix it myself thanks to the post of one Axela member:
(http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/wheel-repair/wheel-scuff-repair.htm).
Does somebody know the paint color code/description to touch-up the rim?
The BMW link actually uses a silver paint but this is, of course, only for the BMW (I think). I went to the Mazda dealer and also their body shop but they couldn’t tell me or find out this.
Thanks!
But you're correct (you probably don't work in government). I will send them a note.
I saw your response to one of my posts about a used Mazda 3 price!
Did you get your 16700 price on a hatch and did you use the S-plan?
I want a Mazda 3 with MANUAL TRANS, MOONROOF PKG., AND ABS PKG.
I can get the S-plan if I would benefit from it.
How much should I expect to pay and HOW DO YOU SHOP AROUND WITH LOCATIONS NATION WIDE? Did you have any problems having a dealer near you agree to the price of a dealership out of state?? Oh, also, the last dealership I went to said they are having a $500 rebate until the end of the month, but this is not listed on Edmunds?? Is this a lie??
Thank you!!
You can see some of the other TSB's at this site. http://web2.iadfw.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/tsbmenu.html
ENGINE HARD START / LONG CRANK
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 MAZDA3 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Some vehicles may experience hard starting and long crank times during acold start condition. This may be due to the fuel pump.
Check fuel hold pressure after turning engine OFF for 5 minutes or longer. (Specification is 36.2 psi or more.) If below specification, check fuel line for clogging. Replace fuel pump if needed. Refer to Workshop manual section 01-14 for further detail. *** Published in M-tips newsletter Jan/Feb 2004.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright © Mazda North American Operations
I’m looking at a 2005 3s with sport package, sunroof package & leather.
From what I gather, there were some (or numerous) issues with early 2004 cars that may include:
Rotors wearing out too fast
Weak A/C
Steering noise (whistle)
Odd interior squeaks
Engine light
Front suspension noise
**Poor Mazda service**
The problem I have with some posts is that people do not indicate their model year. The impression I get is that most of these items have been resolved for 05.
Does anybody have these issues with a 2005?
BTW – Would this type of mistake warrant an internal recall by nhtsa? (Strictly a rhetorical question)
Mazda will not fix this defect - so if I were you I would not buy this car - if you are set on a Mazda3 keep looking until you find one with a good AC.
Since we only have a very limited description of the "problem" (if there is indeed a problem at all), I think you're jumping wayyyyy to far ahead to your conclusion there.
Meade
If you find a KNOWN MAJOR DEFECT in a new car during the test drive - IMO it would be sound advise to NOT BUY THIS CAR. Even if Mazda stood behind their cars (which they don't) and would fix major defects (which they won't) I would still pass on buying a new car that already has a problem. Why buy a new car that will go from the show room to the service department?
Maybe you should go back and re-read the 10,000 or so messages I have posted about the DEFECTIVE AC SYSTEM in the MAZDA3!
I would still like to know if the AC defect is starting to show up in the 2005 models - I bet it will once the temperature turns hot. Sure some (maybe even many) 2005 owners will say that their AC is ICE cold - even if the temp is 110 degrees - but I also do not think Mazda has done anything to really solve this defect - so it will start to show up more as the summer turns hot. Time will tell.
The AC should come back on - after a few seconds - and start to blow cold air.
The main reason is - if the driver hits the gas real hard - there is a good chance they want the car to take off as fast as possible - like to get out of the way of a train. Would you rather have warm air coming out of the vent for 5 seconds or get hit by a train?
It sounds to me like the 2005 Mazda3 you tested has a defective AC system. The only thing I can say for sure - Mazda will not fix this problem - run away while you can before you get stuck with a car that has no AC.
Oh -- and leyzurela? Many, if not most, cars have that compressor stand-by feature. Not only is it designed for acceleration; it's also designed to save the compressor from high engine rpms.
Tell me one thing -- where was the recirculate switch while all this was going on? And at what settings were the other controls? Let's try to get to the root of this problem before simply passing the car off as a lemon, OK boys and girls?
Meade
http://www.marketwatch.com/news/yhoo/story.asp?source=blq/yhoo&siteid=yhoo&dist=yhoo&guid=- - %7B00178C7C%2D598B%2D4102%2D90B8%2D355AA22B99F7%7D
I guess many owners think the a/c is fine!
Meade
To me the DEFECTIVE AC system in my Mazda3 is just as obvious as having a flat tire. Now I don't claim to have any special powers - in fact I would bet most people can tell the difference between being hot and being cold.
So I have a flat tire - you claim that your car does not have a flat tire - so using your logic - my tires must be fine too. You could even add something like I weigh 500 pounds - so my tires really get a workout to add some credibility to your position. But it does not change the fact that my tire is flat.
I had it on number 3 with the re-circ on, then turned down to 2 after about 15 minutes.
The car comes with no factory tint, so I think I’ll get a dark tint added.
Almost 50 miles on it...
I could see taking this long if it was 100 degrees AND the car had been in the sun for a few hours. But when it is only 85 you should be turning the fan speed down (because the car should be cool) in 4-5 minutes.
Sounds to me like your AC system is weak (but still better than mine).
Now compare that to my 1994 Mazda Protege DX, its original a/c (no refills yet) kicks in the moment you start it and only has to be put on fan level 2 for 1 minute before it gets "icy" cold. I then increase the temp control to the middle cold/hot or else I will freeze.
I'm kinda tall 6'3" so my head is near the top of the car. The air that circulates at the top always cools my head down (brain freeze).
Have you tried one of those tints that are supposed to block all the sun rays...I keep thinking that this is one of the cars cooling "problems"
Let us know what happens and how the Mazda service is.
I must admit I wasn’t too impressed with the Mazda sales process. My salesman was really nice and competent, but the financing part and waiting left much to be desired.
If you read the fine print in the Mazda warranty - adding refrigerant is only covered under warranty for 1 year - unless it is part of another repair that is covered under warranty.
In other words - if you have a very slow leak so that over a 5 month period your refrigerant is low - but no leak can be found - then you pay for both the labor and refrigerant.
I thought this was strange when my sales rep pointed it out to me at closing - R-134-a is cheap - compared to R-12 anyway - so I though that sounded like kind of a nickel and dime the customer way of doing business. IMO refrigerant is like engine coolant - you should not have to add it every so often. These are closed systems. Not like engine oil - where some usage is normal.
But now that I see first hand how poorly designed the AC system is I can understand why they excluded this.
Try this - with the engine OFF open the hood and on the refrigerant line you will see a little blue cap with an "L" on it. This is the low side of the system. Slowly unscrew this cap - if you listen you will hear a small "PSSST" sound - that is refrigerant leaking. The cap on most AC systems is there to keep dirt out of the valve stem - not to keep refrigerant in the system.
I will take a probe thermometer and measure the AC later today in my Mazda, my roommates Accord, and my previous car which I still own, a Kia Sephia. This way I won't be using vague terms like "cold" or "warm".
Jason
Ambient temperature: 86F - Mostly sunny w/ a slight breeze
I tested the Kia first.
Interior temperature: 98F - This surprised me as it had been only 20 minutes since I had driven the car back from the grocery and I expected the car to be cooler.
Temperature after 10 minutes with the windows rolled down: 95F - Not much change but there wasn't much breeze.
AC temperature through top vents on coldest setting and fan speed "1": 46F - I've tested it at 42F last summer but maybe the ambient temperature was lower.
Mazda 3 hatch:
Interior temperature: 102F - Leather seats, no sunshade up (forgot), and the sunroof was completely closed because it rained yesterday. Usually it doesn't feel awful if I have the sunshade on the windshield and the sunroof cracked.
Temperature after 10 minutes w/ windows rolled down and sunroof open: 91F - Guess that shows the usefulness of a sunroof. The temp went down 6F in the first 2 minutes.
AC temperature through top vents on coldest setting and fan speed "1": 46F - The temp shot down to 41F before the compressor went off and ended up stabilizing around 46F.
Conclusion: I find nothing wrong with my AC.
Jason
I did the same test last summer - I don't recall the exact temps I got but I do remember getting a large change in vent air temp when I went from fan speed 1 up to 4. Think it was 10 - 12 degree change. Compared to my 99 Silverado that only changed a few (3-4) degrees from fan speed 1 to 5.
This gives the the impression that the Mazda3 system does not have any extra capacity. Although every system will have an increase in air temp when you increase fan speed.
The best test of all - get in a hot car - crank the AC on high - how long until you feel cool.
I have been following this issue with interest, as the temps warm up, both in this forum, and by word of mouth from my son. Son tells me that yes, his new car cools as well as his traded-in dark blue 2001 Civic did. I was skeptical, due to posts I have read here, and the fact that we live in a very difficult place for car air conditioners.
Ah! An oportunity arises for a real test in my book....Yesterday, I had to meet my son mid-day, after his M3 had been sitting in the sun for 4 hours, the outdside temp was in the mid 90's. I left my 05 Highlander where his car was parked, and we spent 3 hours together, running errands in his car.
We drove a few minutes with the fan on high (fresh air intake), and the back windows open to exhaust the over-heated air inside the car, then closed the windows and switched to recirc. After 10 minutes of city driving, traffic lights at about 1-1.5 miles, speeds of 30-35mph, we were comfortable...altho the fan remained on High. Not bad, I thought, but my car would certainly be cooler.
Here's the interesting part. On returning to my parked Highlander, I expected the A/C to cool much faster.. My surprise...It also took 10 minutes before I felt comfortable in the car.
My point? The AC works, it may just barely have the capacity for the extreme temps in the desert, if one is over sensitive to heat. And short trips would make this a bigger issue...But it does work. Use of a windshield sun shield while parked in the sun would be a big help, as the large black dash is a hugh heat sink, and he plans to have his windows tinted at next pay check.
IMHO, overall, an extremely nice car for the bucks...way more than is expected in this category.
Sorry for long post
Because I rarely use anything other than the lowest setting. I wanted to test the car's AC in the same manner that I actually use it.
The best test of all - get in a hot car - crank the AC on high - how long until you feel cool.
The way I tested is how I usually use the AC anyway. I always roll the windows down for a few minutes to let heat vent out, although I am driving the car and not letting it sit in the parking lot.
I have never turned the AC up to high unless there are people in the back seat. I feel cool in about 15 seconds after turning on the AC even in a 100F car. I direct the vents towards my hands and head and that gives quick relief.
Anyone else have any temperature tests of their car's AC?
The huge black dash really is a huge heat sink. Combined with leather seats it can be awful inside the car. Putting up a sunshade and cracking the sunroof makes a HUGE difference. The interior is cooler than my Kia, and they are parked next to each other. As long as direct sunlight stays off the leather seats, they are not hot.
One note about AC cycling. The engine in the Kia is loud so if it was doing any cycling I wouldn't hear it anyway. The very quiet Mazda engine made it possible to hear the AC going on and off. Having said that, I don't think the Kia AC ever went off as the temp never bounced around. Still, the temperatures of both cars' AC were identical anyway.
I'm not sure if this comment is directed to my post, but just for clarification, we also drive with the wndows open for a few minutes to vent out the extreme heat.
I considered getting one of those dash covers - made out of carpet like material - I had one on an old beater PU I used to own because it had a large crack in the dash - but my wife doesn't like them much - plus any color (other than black) would look strange - Would a dash cover - even a black one - be less of a heat sink? - I know the smooth part of the dash gets much hotter than the "carbon fiber" part.
Maybe I should just keep a bag of ice on the dash.
CTI - the only time I use level one fan speed is at night (or real cloudy day) & if the temps are in the mid to low 60's. May be related to the black color.
When the temps are in the 60's I don't even turn the AC on in my other vehicles.
Windshield sunscreen (just received mine from MazdaStuff.com)
Tinted windows
These solutions seem to only help with the speed of initial cooling, but from my impression people are having trouble with any cooling at all.
Since I do not have this problem, I do believe that others do. As with any automotive problem I would keep detailed records. I would thoroughly read the lemon law booklet for your appropriate state. After a few attempts at fixing the AC I would inform the dealership (politely) that I really enjoy the car but intend to pursue the lemon law avenue if my vehicle is not fixed.
I see the AC NOT working as making the car inoperable. I too like to leave the windows open; but depending on your situation: going for an interview, driving in a suite and tie, meeting clients, going out to diner would all necessitate the AC keeping you from smelling like you’ve just worked on the farm all day. It was low 90’s today, and with the flu, I would have passed out with out the AC.
I would not let the item drop. If it meant them pulling out an AC from a 2005, or taking a loss and buying my (theoretical) 2004 in-trade for a 2005. If it came to it, I’d even call the local news “problem solvers”; when push comes to shove squeaky wheel.
Eventually you’ll need to sell the car, just like nobody wants a new car with no AC, nobody wants a used car with no AC.
I'm just wondering (calm down Bill, this isn't aimed at anyone in particular) how many Mazda3 owners are first-time car owners or first-time Japanese car owners, who don't understand how to use these systems effectively or (worse) didn't read the easy instructions in the owner's manual. Hey, my own wife didn't understand the function of the recirculate switch on her Protege5 when she bought it three years ago, coming from a Cavalier with only "A/C and MAX A/C" positions on the dial. She just assumed it was a convenience feature and something to help you avoid skunk smells (hey, it DOES work for that!) and had no idea what HUGE effect is has on the efficiency of the air conditioning.
I think most of us will agree that a lot of "dumb" questions get asked on Edmunds from people who could've opened their owner's manuals to find the answer they're looking for. I've been hanging out at Edmunds since April 2000, and this is the start of the sixth summer I've been here. Let me tell you, this "My Air Conditioning Sucks!!!" thread occurs every stinkin' summer in a number of new car discussions, and it makes you wonder how many complaints are real (like yours, Bill) and how many are the result of owner ignorance.
Meade
i'm barely comfortable when temp outside = upper 70's.
took it to 2 dealerships. both said before starting the check that if the temp out of the vents is 45 degrees or less, then it's within specs.
Both said it was 42 degrees at the vents and there's nothing they can do.
Both also said they checked the pressure, and it was fine.
i can just imagine what it's going to be like when it's 90 degrees outside
I called up MazdaUSA and complained. they said they'll relay the msg to some dept (forgot name- TSB dept??)
Mazda - unlike this list of car companies - does not participate in the BBB lemon law program.
Acura
AM General
Audi
Buick
Cadillac
Chevrolet
Ford
GMC Truck
Oldsmobile
Pontiac
Honda
Hyundai
IMS
Infiniti *
Isuzu
Lincoln
Kia
Land Rover
Mercury
Nissan *
Saturn
Volkswagen
* excludes Hawaii
What this means is - if you try and get a lemon law buy back the first thing you need to do is go get a lawyer. (Although when I first started having problems the Mazda customer service rep told me to go see the states attorney general - in other words - screw you if you don't like it sue us - I still have the E-mail)
The BBB acts as an arbitrator - so you don't need an attorney - it is really just a frame work to get the manufacturer and unhappy car owner together - the BBB looks the situation over - even takes a test drive - and gives an opinion on the situation. Although not binding - if you don't get your way you can still get a lawyer - in many cases it gets the car company to either fix the issue - or buy back the car. Your cost for this program is ZERO.
The cost of a lawyer - even if you win will be THOUSANDS of dollars and it will take many MONTHS - if not YEARS to get resolved.
Even if you have a real issue - you could still lose at trial. The AC defect is tricky - cool air does come out of the vent - on a 80 degree day it actually cools the car. So after waiting 16 months for your day in court & paying a few thousand dollars in legal fees - the judge says - show me the car - and it is a rainy 68 degree day.
Finally - how much mental stress is it worth - should I spend the next year worrying about going to trial? Again - its just not worth it - IMO that is why Mazda is NOT part of the BBB program - they know that only a few people will take the situation this far - and it allows they to save a few $.
There's a lot of legal wiggle-room in that phrase. If Mazda's reps can prove that the air conditioning performs within specs, then there's no case. It then becomes a subjective case of what you think "cool enough" is.
BTW, any automotive air-conditioning guide will tell you that 42 degrees is quite normal -- in fact, good -- for a car air-conditioning system. So ... if your car is blowing that temperature, and there's nothing wrong with the fan, what's the problem?
Meade
But, it seems to me that the problem is the cycling of the compressor.. 42 degrees would certainly be enough to cool any car, if it is constant...
Too many complaints for it to not be a real problem..
regards,
kyfdx
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This proves that there is hope for peace between Isrial and Palistine!