Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

mazdafun

That's about it. It's hard to get it into tightly-curved concave areas (like behind or under the outside door handles). The side-mirror covers were hard too, mostly due to the tightly-curved surfaces (at least they're convex). The warmer the material is, the easier it is to stretch it when needed.

The big pieces for the hood and front bumper will definitely require at least two people to install them (one to hold onto the unapplied part and to keep it wetted with the alcohol solution). It's hard to get them aligned properly before the stuff sticks down (you use a weak isopropyl alcohol solution to keep the adhesive from sticking immediately). However, there are few places where the curvature is high (front edge of the hood), so it's surprisingly easy to lay these pieces on once you have them aligned properly. After you get them into place, squeegee, squeegee and squeegee (a semi-rigid plastic wiper, like you might use for drywall mudding works OK) to get that alcohol solution out (minimizes bubbles...it takes forever for that stuff to evaporate out). Then let it sit over a weekend, if you can, so the adhesive has some time to acquire some "tack" before you expose it to the elements and high wind, which may lift up the edges.

It has lifted up in some places, like around the door handle cups and around the fog lamp openings. Dirt can collect under these. If you can't get the film to stick well in these areas (all concave BTW), then I'd slit the film and lay it down. I guess it doesn't like getting stretched too much...it snaps back a bit, lifting the film away in these areas.

The rest of it is still fine (aside from that one stretch mark on the hood film from that big rock impact). I think we applied the film to her P5 in Feb/Mar of '03. I've had the headlamp film on my '99 Pro since Jan '99 (some dirt around the edges where the "glass" curves away, but absolutely no cracks or chips in my headlamps!). They didn't offer any pre-cut kits for my Pro until 2000, and by then I already had a number of nicks in the paint.

z71bill

The bumper is 3 main sections - the outside plastic bumper cover, a metal bumper and a piece of styrofoam that is located between the metal and plastic. My noise was coming from the styrofoam rubbing against the plastic bumper cover. I sprayed the area between the styrofoam and plastic bumper - from under the car - with silicone spray.

jandd1

My gas mileage has been steadily increasing. I do a 60/40 split between highway/city. My first tank I got about 470km for the tank (about 292 miles) I refilled to full and had about 5 litres space left. 49.8 litres and then it wanted to spill...the tank is 55 litres.

My second tank I got 520km (323 miles) and about the same on the complete refill 49.1 litres.

My third tank I got 555km (344 miles) but pushed until I had to put in 53.4 litres. I was certain I was going to run out of gas!!!

I am on my fourth tank and plan to have the oil changed after this tank.

The last tank seems to correspond to their estimates - averaging about 10.3 litres (2.62 US Gallons) used per/100km (62miles) travelled.

I think Someone previously mentioned that their gas mileage increased after their first oil change?

Sorry about the conversion chaos.

aric214

"The last tank seems to correspond to their estimates - averaging about 10.3 litres (2.62 US Gallons) used per/100km (62miles) travelled."

Is that what they really estimate? I guess I'm along those lines too. The car's done about 2800 miles...once it hits 3000, I'll go get my first oil change. Maybe things will improve more by then.

3owner

I have a 3 GS, 2.0
My Gas Mileage, I should say Kilomeage is about 9 litres/100KM. Its starting to hit a zone (I'm at 5,000 KM's)now and its definitely come down since the initial fill up. I do about a 60/40 split in favour of highway.

edgarem

"My first tank I got about 470km for the tank (about 292 miles) I refilled to full and had about 5 litres space left. 49.8 litres and then it wanted to spill...the tank is 55 litres."

My first tank, maybe a 80/20 hwy/city split, was 42.9 litre, 494 km, 8.7 l/100km, 32.5 mile per Imp gal, 27 mile per US gal - for GT hatch auto.
Pretty good for a new 2.3 litre engine.

I expect it will average about 10mpg (Can) better than my 92 Camry V6, which also needs 89 octane. My wife's old Echo - now that's another story.......

stokkes

I usually hit around 400-450 on a tank. I'm at 4000KMs.

but my trips are about 90/10 city/hwy and short trips at that, sometimes 6-10km, so the engine never gets warm, oil never starts flowing.. Which is probably why I'm getting crappy gas mileage.

My old Sunfire was rated lower than this car, but I always got 430+ on a tank with it.

stokkes

wilecoyote

I drive city/hway and combined mileage so far has been around 26 mpg. Since I used to average about 20-21 mpg with my old sluggish V6, so far I am happy with a quicker car and better mileage. I am just at about 1000 miles, so the mpg avg will likely improve.

kmh2468

Thanks for the thorough post!

It sounds like you did the job yourself - very admirable, IMHO. I'll probably go with an experienced installer for my job.

Thanks again.

nne3jxc

I'm at 1800 miles and do mostly around town driving. I only get 23-24 mpg, which I am fairly dissapointed with since my previous car was a 4500 lb V8 sport-luxury sedan and got 19 mpg with the same driving.

firstmazda

So do you just wash/wax/polish over the vinyl as you normally would your car?

can you tell it's on the car? or only at close look?

if you do just wax it, does it shine as much as the rest of the body? or a little duller?

sounds like a good investment! save you a paint job down the road.

mazdafun

It's glossy. The one on the headlamps is visible from further away, mostly because it's about 4X as thick.

The one on the paint you don't see until either:

1) Light from a point source hits it from an oblique angle, casting a shadowy line.

2) You get to within 2 feet of it under most outdoor light conditions (and depending on your visual acuity...), especially cloudy days.

3) Your car is really dirty. This is usually when I can see it on my wife's P5.

When my wife's car is clean (it could really use a bath now), it's really hard to see the stuff. Then again, the silver metallic on her car hides a lot. I've seen it on bright red Miatas and RX-8s too, and I have to get within a couple to few feet to see it. It seems more obvious on side panels, like on leading faces of fenders, than it is on the hood or bumper.

The stuff is shiny, almost as shiny as the clearcoat on the paint. I think it dulls with wear (based upon what I'm seeing with my headlamp protectors...it probably varies with how dusty/sandy your environment is), but you can remove it by heating the stuff with a blow dryer or hot-air gun and slowly peeling it off. I'll probably replace my headlamp film next summer.

I think 3M claims you can wax it, but I'd avoid it, especially if you use a polishing wax. The film doesn't need it and any polishing agent would just damage the glossy surface. Plus, you get acculumation of wax around the edges, which really shows up on dark-colored cars.

We both prefer this film to standard bras because:
1) You don't have a dorky bra on the front end.
2) Dirt doesn't get underneath and scratch up your paint.
3) It doesn't flap in the wind on the freeway.
4) The paint underneath fades in tandem with uncovered paint, so no "reverse-tan" lines.
5) You don't have to remove it to wash the car (but be careful with high-pressure sprays...always spray away from the edges).

She had a very bad experience using a standard bra on her '91 Saturn SL2, but she wanted something to protect the paint on her '03 P5. So far, so good.

everfeb

Thanks to everyone who has reported. I think it would be even more informative and helpful when reporting gas mileage if we post..
1) location...2)motor size...3)auto or 5spd
4)sedan or hatch...5)miles/km on car..%hwy/city
For example someone driving a 2.0 5spd sedan in warm sunny southern California should get much better mileage than someone driving a 2.3 auto hatch in still cold Northern Ontario.
Let's compare apples to apples.
I'm in NW Ontario where temperatures were -5 to +5C (around 32F) during my most recent mileage check. Test was done about 95% around town. Roads varied from mostly clear to occasionally slushy. I am a very cheap driver. When I see a red light way ahead of me I slow down and try to keep car moving until light turns green so I don't have to sit idling at red light. I do not idle car for very long at startup and I do not leave car running while doing errands. I don't spin tires or come to screeching stops.
  
 My numbers at 3000km (1900mi) with my 2.3 auto hatch. 14.9MI/USGAL. 15.788L/100KM. I would get 316.7KM out of 50L which is 196.8 miles on 13.2US GAL. I'm very disappointed in this.

Hopefully, as weather warms and engine breaks in this will get substantially better.

everfeb

mrjex43

My 3 had a dealer-installed clear nose mask when I bought it; had I not just traded in a Civic with visible scratches due to the 'dorky bra', I would have complained. In the four months since, I haven't had any problems, and while my windshield is starting to get tiny rock marks (only visible in direct light), my hood and fenders are chip-free. Don't know if its 3M or not, but I'd recommend it to anyone.

roger341

Probably fuel economy would be a better term for our Canadian friends!

Anyway what's the deal with topping off tank? I can't put even a few drops in after the nozzle clicks off. I was always able to add half gallon or so with my 01 Pro.

I know topping off the tank is not good, but am I the only one who notices this?

langod

Good point Everfeb. So to add to my previous response:
I have a 3s Sedan w/automatic tranny. Usually do about 75% suburban and backroad driving. And I live in southern New Hampshire where the weather has been 30-45F lately.

jandd1

Hatch GT 5 speed when corresponding to all my above numbers. In the Southern Ontario.

I did squeeze a few $$ worth of top of fuel without spilling any.

You must be overflowing because our fuel is pumped out in litres and the US fuel is coming out it gallons ) !!!

everfeb

gazzelle2...have you had the marks in your paint fixed yet???by heat gun???

mz3mama...were the defects in your paint small (maybe 1/4" to 1") marks-sort of browny/orangy in colour-crescent shaped like a sliver of the moon or looking like a tiny 1/2 curled up worm?? Did dealer use a heat gun to fix the defects???

Thanks

everfeb

langod

I just realized I posted originally with my old ID: nne3jxc and responded with my new one.

The old name is "nne3jxc", my new more user-friendly user name is "langod".

iqmaw

I too had the knocking/rattling noise coming from the rear of my hatch. I was consistantly hearing the noise on uneven road surfaces while travelling at residential speeds with the stereo off. I had taken my vehicle back to the dealer on a number of occasions and on the 4th occasion they discovered the noise was coming from the rear bumper. On extremely cold Canadian mornings I ocassionally have still heard the noise but it does not bug me as much although I would prefer not to hear it at all. Hope this helps those having the same problem.

dioworld

today i notice there's a squeaking noise when i press the clutch pedal. It's like it need lubrication or something, anyone else has this problem? am i over sensitive ??

aric214

I just got a letter (with the Assessories brochure and a bottle of touch of paint) from Mazda. In the letter it says: "Your first oil change is due after 6 months or 7,500 miles - even sooner for unique driving conditions."

6 months or 7500 miles? I thought the limit was usually 3 months or 3000 miles? I drive in Boston and pretty much baby the thing, but I don't think the diriving conditons are really that unique...What do you guys think??

aric

roger341

I had my first oil change last week at 1,500 miles. Nothing special about those miles, most were highway travel in decent weather. I just remembered reading a long time ago about shavings that are left in the block after the casting process. Maybe that's not really true but since the dealer offers unlimited free oil changes during entire ownership period, I thought what the heck.

Incidentally I too have buildup of brake dust on rear wheels and slight grooving of rotors. The rear rotors get much hotter than the front ones, probably because they aren't vented, but it could also be because they are getting the most use when braking.

Of course the service tech said they were fine, just normal break-in, and not to worry. Same old same old. Time will tell.

buckeye82

I read plenty of reviews before I purchased my 3 hatchback and I never saw one complaint about road noise. However, I am a bit dissappointed in the amount of road noise I am experiencing. Anyone else? Is it due to the low profile tires? Otherwise I love it.

aric214

"since the dealer offers unlimited free oil changes during entire ownership period, I thought what the heck."

Do most Mazda dealers offer that kind of service? I figure we'd have to drop at least $30 if we go...

mazda6s

I think part of the problem is the tires. When your OE tires wear out, try Michelin Pilots. I think the reviewers didn't mention road noise because it's comparable to, or better than, other cars in the compact class. Several of the "test drivers" hanging around here (including me) have commented on it. I suspect some underbody sound dampening material could help, or maybe Dynamat. I would first coat the inside of the wheel wells as I suspect that's where a lot of the noise is coming from.

I think Mazda chose the RSAs instead of the Pilots because they are cheaper and it's also possible that they didn't want to make the Mazda3 almost as quiet as the Mazda6, when the Mazda3 already compared quite favorably to the other cars in it's class. One of the very few things that makes the Mazda6 a "better" car in some people's opinions is that it's quieter, and as an auto maker you don't want to cannibalize sales of one model for another any more then necessary. Just my theory of course and I could be FOS.

Still, I think the Mazda3 is an awesome car for the money and has the other auto makers in this class scrambling for the drawing board to see what they can do for "damage control".

lmp180psu

The one thing I noticed on my test drives of the Mazda3 was the high amount of noise generated around the wheel wells when you drove over roads treated with salt/gravel.

Can you apply Dynamat around the wheel wells to reduce noise, or is it only an interior application? Is there a special spray material that can be applied to reduce noise?

Otherwise I found road noise levels to be very low, especially compared to my 97 Contour.

mz3mama

yes...everfeb & gazelle2.I got the paint defects out last Monday..with the heat gun.
They were moisture spots trapped underneath the clear coat. The heat gun virtually dryed them up. If I had bought my car in the summer, the hot sun would have done the same job.
My car is visually perfect now..like some of the the mz3 owners, my gas mileage is not up to speed(yet)...but I will be patient with that and just keep on ridin

mazda6s

Dynamat has a spray-on product (Dynashield) for that purpose. Maybe putting the regular sheet-type Dynamat on the inside and spraying the underside with Dynashield would work?
www.dynamat.com

gazelle2

Haven't had the paint defects looked at yet. I teach, and am now on spring break, so I'll bring it in next week. Thankfully, based on what you've said, it'll be no big deal--or I could let the first warm NJ spring day with full sunshine do the job? Besides that, the car has been perfect! Even though it's no WRX, it's all too easy to get to illegal speeds in the 3, 60mph comes quickly, maybe because it's a quiet sort of 60. Still awaiting those elusive accessories...

taylor3

Hey Igmaw or anyone who knows,

I just got my car back from the dealer and they stuffed the bumper inside with foam rubber and the noise has gone away "some". It is still there. Igmaw, what did they do to your bumper to fix it?... and does anyone have any other suggestions?. Could it be the rear shocks and their towers or the caps that cover the bolts?...Very hard to get to. I am giving up here.

iqmaw

Sorry taylor3, I have to advise you the Knocking/Popping Noise in the rear has not been resolved on my car. With colder temperatures this past weekend I was able to hear the noise more often. The dealership has re-torqued my suspension eliminating that from the equation. It is back to the dealership for my car. Pity about this minor irritating problem as this car is a great car to drive. I will update this posting if the problem gets resolved.

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Liven up your evening and join your fellow enthusiasts every Tuesday from 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for our Mazda Mania Chat!

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buckeye82

Yep, I imagined that better tires will help with the noise. Never heard of Dynamat, but I bet it would help in the wheel wells as I have noticed sand or gravel sounds when driving on dirty roads. The noise can definitely be loud on rough roads, but not so bad that I am disappointed in the car. I love this car, it's like driving a go cart (a safe one). Sooooo happy I selected this over a Vibe or Matrix, no comparison! I drove the family Explorer yesterday and it felt like I was driving on 4 flat tires.

buckeye82

Is there any cure in period for the paint? How soon can I wax and what wax is best?

Anyone know much about Dynamat? I heard it is a product to help reduce road noise, my single minor issue with my Mazda 3 hatchback.

Otherwise simply awesome!

langod

Well, The 3S is back at the dealer. (3rd time since December.) Once again the airbag sensor is the apparent culprit. I noticed last week the the passenger airbag warning light was lighting at odd times -- it didn't seem to make any difference who or what was on the seat. Finally, when I took my brother for a ride (6 feet 160 lbs) and the warning light said that the passenger airbag was disengaged, I knew there was a problem.
So the dealer is getting a new sensor -- they say it's the same one that failed before. They expect to have a new one tomorrow assuming that this big New England storm doesn't mess up deliveries.
I hope the sensor comes in -- as much as I'm annoyed with these problems, the 3 is a whole lot more fun than the Monte Carlo loaner they gave me. (It doesn't seem as fast as Dale Earnhardt's or Jeff Gordon's, either....)

Jim
(aka langod formerly "nne3jxc")

mazda6s

Wax it right away (by hand), otherwise you could get water spots.

jandd1

I hope that the sensor problems are not a continual problem with these cars. My other car is a 97 Maxima and the check engine light has been on and off for about 4 years. Every time I go to pull the plug on it it turns off.

The dealer doesn't really know what it is and suggests changing all 3 O2 sensors which is costly.

Every emissions test I've done has had me holding my breath as I don't know if this there will really be a problem! Plus it is an anoyance and since it is a business car looks weird to clients.

I should have hounded them until they fixed the problem permanently while it was under warranty...now its too late.

Lessoned learned - point being anything electrical keep at them until it is fixed. In fact if it happens to me with this car I will try to get something in writing (from Mazda)saying that if it reoccurs after the warranty period they will continue to repair it free of any 'parts' charges.

wilecoyote

I waxed mine the week I got it and wondered how often (approximately, not taking into account a week of thunderstorms, etc) I should wax it - every 3 months? Do I have to make sure to Remove the Old Wax before re-waxing?

roger341

Today I had the occasion of applying the brakes as the car was drifting down a slight incline, engine off.

There is definitely something wrong with the brakes, no matter what the dealer says. Noise sounded like metal on metal almost.

Someone a while ago mentioned the problem was due to the face of the rotor having a raised part # on it, causing the pad to wear unevenly. Has anyone tried to find this raised or embossed #? I have, and it's nowhere to be found.

langod

Had the car been sitting overnight? I notice that disc brakes (on many cars) can get a few rust spots on them even just in the few overnight hours. The first application of brakes often feels and sounds horrible until these thin rust spots are worn off. (shouldn't take more than one or two stops.)
Of course, if your brakes always grind or shriek, there is a problem.

bodble2

I had a '95 Maxima that went through about 4 O2 sensors in the 4 years that I had it. I did voice my concerns to the dealer about what would happen after the warranty expired. And he kind of indicated that since the problem was well-documented during the warranty period, Nissan would have continue to cover the cost.

lavaorange3

...the volume/power knob on the 3 comes off in my hand this morning - the plastic had cracked into several pieces. So I go by a Mazda dealer in Honolulu. The parts guy says I gotta go through service because it's warranty work. The service writer says it'll be just a few minutes, but as it were, I had to run to an appointment. So I go back this afternoon, and the service guy says I gotta leave the car all day, so a tech can take a look at "the problem and decide whether it's really a warranty job." So I go back to parts, to see if I should just buy the knob myself, and put it on. Turns out it's US$19.69(!), and what's more, they don't even have it in stock. What a bunch of clowns... So, my plan is to see if Radio Shack has a sufficient replacement knob for now, and have Mazda do their warranty boogie when I change oil next, in 2300 miles. Oh yeah, I'm also gonna zap off a letter to Mazda North America just to let them know that making people jump through bureaucratic hoops for minor stuff doesn't warm the heart...

bodble2

And I thought the government has the monopoly on this sort of laughable bureaucracy.

roger341

No, I had just returned home and shut engine off. Then released emerg brake to allow car to drift back a bit so I could wash it. When I put the brakes on, the scraping noise was very noticeable.

This isn't unique to my Mz3, apparently it's a common problem especially with low miles. I used to notice it while slowing down for red lights, but with 1600 miles that has now almost gone away.

In fact I thought it was gone completely until the other day. This is a very slick little car but there are several bugs in it, the brakes and air bag sensor being the two biggest in my opinion.

The longer Mazda waits to issue a TSB the longer owners will have to wait to get these things fixed.

langod

I'd agree -- that doesn't sound right -- by 1600 miles the brakes should be pretty much worn in. I just turned mine over 1900 miles and don't seem to have that problem. 'Course I have had the CEL light and the Airbag problem twice!

taylor3

Hey Igmaw and anyone else who is interested,,,,

My dealer called today and he drove the vehicle this morning with his best tech in the back of it and he thinks it is faulty shocks that were either bad in the beginning or got damage as the car was "tied down" in shipping. They ordered new ones and I get it back tomorrow. I will let you know if this fixes it after I drive it over the weekend.....

-Tay

firstmazda

Anybody get a whirring noise when they turn the fan on? It sounds like it's coming from the windshield vents.

The stronger you put the fan, the higher the pitch gets, and that's directly proportional to how irritating it gets.

If I play with the nob a bit and switch speeds back and forth, it usually goes away but comes back usually when I first turn the car on.

Is there a little plastic fan in that vent? that's what it sounds like.

Otherwise, no other problems encountered.

daveinto

Hi all-

I'm going to be buying an M3 SportGT soon but I'm slightly worried about some of the bugs you guys seem be be experiencing- airbag warning/ brakes etc. Anyone have any thoughts on whether I should wait for a 2005?

Thanks!