Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

npaladin2000

You're probably better off posting this in the generic Mazda3 or Mazda3 hatchback forums.

Mazda3: edgarem "Mazda3" Apr 24, 2004 2:05pm

Mazda3 (Hatchback): only120xs "Mazda3 (Hatchback)" Apr 20, 2004 7:33pm

That being said, I just bought the 5 door, and I think it's great. Carries a lot of stuff when I need it to, plenty of pickup, the auto tranny shifts up right when I want it to....a little slow to downshift but it's got so much of a top end it doesn't need to as often (and if you don't like the shift points, that's what the sportshifter is for).

The black interior is nice, but it's starting to get a little dusty; wish there was an air filter available. Love the sunroof, didn't like the 6 CD so much, but I replaced it with the DIO MP3 player. Wish the Xenons were available without the TPMS (IMHO, that TPMS system is too much of a hassle, especially if you get a second set of rims for winter driving...17 inch rims, standard on the hatch, aren't the best suited to snow). Shop around and hope you can find one with the options you want, becuse a special order is going to take forever.

Anyway, that's the gist...this is a problems board, so I don't want to get too OT, but if you scan those links above, you'll see lots of happy owners (including me). I just wish I could have gotten Xenons...

frogpond

My opinion on paint is that while todays cars come in a vast array of colors the paint is just not what it used to be durability wise. Of course maybe the paint is less durable on purpose so that more companies can jump in on paint protection products What are peoples opinions/experiences with the new 3M paint film and the new Teflon treatment I'm hearing about?

z71bill

Oil weight -

The owners manual of many cars have several different weights of oil listed -5w-30 as the recommended oil, but 10W-30 is OK if temp is above 32 degrees - I assume you already know that the Mazda3 owners manual has only one oil - 5w-20 listed. Why do you think it would be a good idea to use an oil other than what the manufacturer recommends? Seems to me that they are in a much better position to know what oil works best. I really don't think using 5w-30 oil will hurt your engine - but don't see any benefit either. The one risk you run is if you do have a major engine problem it is possible Mazda will give you a hard time because you did not follow their REQUIREMENT.

Why do so many people think that heavy weight oil somehow protects better? This is one of the many automotive myths that just will not die.

edgarem

"Why do so many people think that heavy weight oil somehow protects better? This is one of the many automotive myths that just will not die."

I must be out of the myth circuit - was not aware of this. But, up here in colder climes, unless you have a block heater, it does make sense to use a lighter low end multi grade - every little bit helps when starting. On the high end, I agree - Houston or Toronto - ambient does not have much of an effect on combustion wall temp.

bmwbobby

There has been a lot of discussions about all this in technical lubrication journals. The myths are not mine but are more likely yours. There is ridiculous talk about engines being changed to suit 5W-20 oils but this is not true. Main bearings, big and small end journal bearings, etc, have similar clearances as they've always had on this type of small high specific output engine. Of course camshafts run with essentially no clerarance on these and all cars and are considered to have what is known as boundary type lubrication (not elastohydrodynamic as in the bearings. It is well known by lubication engineers that camshafts would be best protected (other than during startup) with a 50 weight oil but that is too
viscous for the other engine parts and would lead to poor fuel mileage. The exact same Honda and Ford engines that have not changed at all that had recommended 5W-30 and even allowed 10W-40 in hot weather now suddenly require 5W-20 all season long? This is simply a CAFE issue. Anyway, lubrication viscosity preference is determined by three factors, load amount; interfacial velocity; and temperature. Higher loads demand higher viscosity; higher speeds demand lower viscosity (consider hydroplaning as a form of hydrodynamic lubrication), and higher temps demand higher viscosity. Be aware that each of these factors vary wildly in your engine, piston speed is low near the top and bottom of the stroke, cam turns at half of crankshaft speed; rod journal bearings have about 3 times more load than the mains. What is not a myth is that oil sump temperatures have gone up a ton over the last 25 years due to the much much higher specific outputs (Hp/CID)and due to runnning much less air under the vehicles ie lower ground clearance and air dams, new air cover plates, like the one on your Mazda 3. On older cars like a 73 Plymouth valiant, about 20% of the total engine cooling was done by air circulating under the hood, but this isn't too good for aerodynamics and those days are over.

Like any heat engine (gasoline is called the Otto cycle), output and efficiency go up with operating temperature. This is true for Brayton cycle engines too (that's a gas turbine or jet engine), Diesel engines, etc. As a modern jet engine runs a firing temperatue about 500F hotter than they did 25 years ago, your modern car runs much hotter too.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=- 365&relatedbookgroup=Lubrication

First of all, when it is hot out, especially if you are in city type traffic for long periods of time, your water temperatures will go up significantly as compared to cold days doing highway driving. When water temperatures go up, so do metal and lubricant sump temperatures. Lubricant sump temperatures can be in the 240F range.
Your 5W-20 oil has a viscosity approaching just 5 centistokes and will also be quite volatile with its short chain molecules. Your cams will be totally dependent on the anti-adhesive wear additives it has like ZDP which I hear they are loading up 5W-20 oils with to the brim. Anyway, I hope you're getting the point.

ANyway, do consider that the 30 weight designation refers to a specified viscosity range at 212F. At lower temperatures, a 5W-30 behaves just like the 5W-20 and doesn't add any extra film thickness until you need it, when it gets really hot. If you'd like anymore information documenting the changes in engine and oil sump tempratures over the years, do ask. If you are doubting that they can be affected by ambient temperatures, especially in extremes like 15F vs 95F, then you need more help than I can render.

Bobby

mazdafun

I've only got the headlamp kit on my '99 Pro LX, but my wife's '03 P5 has the full front-end treatment (bumper, hood, fenders), under the door handles, side mirrors, top of the rear bumper and all front lights (including fogs). So far, only one region that has been marred by a large rock that hit it (good thing it was there; that probably would've left a huge scratch in the paint).

We put it on ourselves (we bought pre-cut kits). Other than the fenders, rear bumper and the lights, it was a big pain to install (it's definitely a 2-person job on the larger pieces). I'd pay for a professional to do it the next time.

z71bill

Kind of a long post -

So you think you know more then the people that designed and built your car? I am sure that Mazda uses high school drop outs to decide what kind of oil to use in their engines! Or maybe they ask the guy at Jiffy Lube what he thinks is best!

Your assumption that you need "extra film thickness" is where you get off track. That is the myth.

Just why do you think that this is required? Or better?

While at a lubrication seminar I took several years ago the instructor (PHD chemical engineering with 30+ years real world experience) explained it this way.

You are at the beach and decide to run 1 mile - which is easier?

1. Running in the water up to your knees (heavy oil film)
2. Running on the wet sand (light oil film)
3. Running on the dry loose sand (no oil film)

Your comment on CAFE is mostly true - but also helps to prove my point (thank you). The 5W-20 provides the best MPG - do you really think that would be true if it was not providing proper (could argue better) lubrication?

Again - the 5W-30 will not hurt your engine - but it will also not provide any real benefit and may give you big problems if you have a major engine failure while under warranty. Mazda could elect to not honor the warranty - because you did not do PROPER MAINTENANCE.

As far as sump temperatures being hotter with outside temperatures at 95 degrees VS 15. I would agree with that - but so what. The 5W-20 will still provide proper lubrication.

The bottom line IMO - you are better off using the manufacturer's requirements.

bmwbobby

You're missing the point amigo and need to read a little more carefully. I didn't say you need extra film thickness, what I was saying is that in some parts of the engine, even with 30w oil, you don't really have any thick film lubrication to begin with (ie, camshafts) and you may be close to running without a film in bearings too if you're inlet viscosity is too low and your load is high. You're right about thick film lubrication, once you've got it, you don't need to get much thicker but as temperatures and loads go up, you may not have it anymore!!! Have you ever observed a viscosity versus temeperature graph for a motor oil? Why do race vehicles have oil coolers amigo? Do you think you know more than they do and that they should be using 20 Weight oil without oil coolers?. On cool days with short trips, 5W-20 is too thick, you could survive with even thinner oil because the oil and motor don't get very hot. It all depends on the real situation locally in the engine amigo, oil inlet temperature to the load zone, local metal temperature, interface speed, and load. If you were racing the car in hot weather, you'd be an assclown to use 5W-20. In fact, there will surely be versions of this car raced in the SCCA and other semi-stock motorsport events and I guaran-damn-tee yo they will be using heavier oils with high temperature, probably of the 40 Weight variety or higher. This is because of higher temperatures and loads. Is that so difficult to understand now? At 6500 RPM, your radial loads on the bearings are extreme!!!!

 As far as the legalities are concerned, you are again most uneducated, read this FAQ from a motor oil supplier:

Question: My owners manual specifies 5W-20 oil. Do I really need to use 5W-20 oil and why did my 2000 model year vehicle require a 5W-30 oil, while the exact same engine in my 2001, 2002 and newer engines "requires" a 5W-20 oil?

Answer: You do not need to use a 5W-20 oil. Do not let your dealer scare you by telling you that you have to use it for your warranty. That is a tactic that some dealerships use to scare customers. Once you know the facts and the Federal Magnusson Moss Act law you will be much better informed to protect your rights and use the type of oil you want to use.

The main reason 5W-20 was specified for your engine is to increase the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) reported to the Federal Government. CAFE is the combined average fuel economy of all of a vehicle manufacturers product line. Minimum CAFE levels are specified by the Federal Government. In order for a vehicle manufacturer to continue selling profitable large trucks and SUV's, which typically have poor fuel mileage ratings, as compared to smaller cars, and still meet mandated CAFE requirements, they must also sell enough of the smaller cars which have much better fuel economy ratings to offset the poor fuel economy ratings of the larger vehicles. For model year 2001, the change to a 5W-20 oil will allow Ford and Honda's overall CAFE to increase by a very small amount, typically in the tenths of a mile per gallon range. 5W-20 oil is a lighter viscosity than a 5W-30 oil and therefore has less internal engine frictional losses, or less drag on the crankshaft, pistons and valvetrain, which in turn promotes increased fuel economy. This increased fuel economy is virtually undetectable to the average motorist without the use of specialized engine monitoring and testing equipment under strictly controlled test track driving when compared to a 5W-30, 10W-30 or a 0W-30 viscosity motor oil.

Question: Could using a 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-30 or even a 10W-40 or 20W-50, oil in my vehicle which specifies a 5W-20 oil void my new car warranty?

Answer: Absolutely not. Vehicle manufacturers only recommend using motor oils meeting certain viscosity grades and American Petroleum Institute service requirements. Whether a motor oil is a 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-30, 10W-40 or 20W-50 (for racing and high performance applications in, for example, a Cobra R Mustang) or even a synthetic vs. a petroleum based oil will not affect warranty coverage. The manufacturer is required by Federal Law to cover all equipment failures it would normally cover as long as the oil meets API service requirements and specifications and was not the cause of failure. In addition, the Federally mandated Magnuson - Moss Act states that a manufacturer may not require a specific brand or type of aftermarket product unless it is provided free of charge. If your dealership continues to tell you that you must use 5W-20 motor oil and or/ a specific brand of 5W-20 motor oil, then ask them to put it in writing. Their position is inaccurate, and, in fact violates existing law.*

bmwbobby

Rad this amigo: http://www.noria.com/learning_center/category_article.asp?article- id=518&relatedbookgroup=Maintenance

Here is an excerpt: "Any abrasive particles equal to or larger than the oil film thickness will cause wear. Filters are necessary to keep contaminants small. The other side of the equation is oil film thickness. Thicker oil films can accommodate larger contaminants.

"Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.

In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range. One might be surprised at the slight amount of difference between straight viscosity vs. multiviscosity oils with the same back number (for example, SAE 30, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30)."

"Any abrasive particles equal to or larger than the oil film thickness will cause wear. Filters are necessary to keep contaminants small. The other side of the equation is oil film thickness. Thicker oil films can accommodate larger contaminants.

Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.

In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range. One might be surprised at the slight amount of difference between straight viscosity vs. multiviscosity oils with the same back number (for example, SAE 30, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30)."

 Did your PhD buddy tell you that having a film thickness bigger than the size of wear particles is most helpful.

More quotes "Antiwear additives are important in the absence of a hydrodynamic film, such as in the valve train. The antiwear additives are activated by frictional heat, which causes them to react with the hot surface and form a chemical barrier to wear.
 
Short-term Thinking
As wear increases, the efficiency of an engine declines. Valve train wear slightly changes valve timing and movement. Ring and liner wear affect compression. The wear hurts fuel efficiency and power output by an imperceptible amount at first, but then the difference in fuel economy between an SAE 10W-30 and SAE 5W-20 is hardly noticeable. Efficiency continues to decline as wear progresses. Perhaps optimizing wear protection is the way to reduce fuel consumption over the life of the engine."

Educate yourself about the basics of lubrication before you go spouting off on these forums like an assclown. If 20F is significant, what about 40F or 50F? Temperature is everything in this game amigo. Why do you think I mentioned higher high temperature viscosities for higher temperature engine use?

Bobby

gandrigo

Thanks heavens for the profound and educated opinions of bmwbobby. comparing high load and temp racetrack situations to those encountered by people such as me on the street does little to prove a point. technically, the 10W30 oil will provide better protection at higher temp (beyond regular operating parameters) than the 5W20, but that does not render the 5W20 inadequate. the specified grade will do the job under anything close to extreme conditions, and that includes hot and cold weather.
At normal operating temperature, the 5W30 will not act like a 5W20, and yes that is a fact. The oil pump and passageways were designed to optimize efficiency for a given weight oil within a specific operating range. A pump will not deliver the same volume of different viscosity fluids at a given temperature. how will this affect wear? I am nowhere near as qualified as the individuals who designed and tested this motor, and I would wager few people here are. We are all entitled to personal opinions.

guest

...yet off topic. You can trot over to Engine Oil - A slippery subject in M&R to continue.

gdzlla13

Was wondering if they actually fixed these problems. Test drove the car a week ago. Loved it!!! Don't know if i'll buy it with these known problems.

edgarem

"While I did find your wealth of information somewhat interesting, I'm sure most of us here could do without your harsh tone of voice and name-calling."

Amen. So, responding to gdzila13...our GT Sport has about 4000km now, and has no A/C or brake problem. In fact, we are very pleased with the lack of problems in this new model car. Brake wear has dropped to normal and the A/C is a little less frigid compared to our Camry, but adequate. Hey, eventually we will have a few - what car doesn't - and a small price to pay for a great handling vehicle.

gdzlla13

So, did you feel that the brake wear was above normal before? If so, why? I too, currently own a camry and the a/c is pretty frigid. Is it going to be a noticeable difference. I love my a/c.

guest

Some posts have been removed as they were off topic. As I suggested previously, there is a discussion in M&R devoted to oil issues and debate.

edgarem

"So, did you feel that the brake wear was above normal before? If so, why? I too, currently own a camry and the a/c is pretty frigid. Is it going to be a noticeable difference. I love my a/c."

Re brakes, not really - had some dust and minor grooving the first 500k, but then the rotors smoothed right out - and normal now. Question will be how long a life I get from the pads, but not really worried - talked to the dealer and if wear is abnormal before 60k, he will replace.

As to A/C, it is better than our recent Echo and not as frigid as our Camry. In other words, it is quite adequate. Even if it was as poor as the Echo, we prob would have bought it anyway - just a great car to drive for the price (if you enjoy driving!).

orangelebaron

Are most people who buy Mazda 3's techies ?

Looks like an Einstein forum in here.

edgarem

"Are most people who buy Mazda 3's techies? Looks like an Einstein forum in here."

Some are, some are "legends in their own mind".

Speaking of problems, has anyone ever had their low washer fluid light go on? If they have, then I finally have a problem.

npaladin2000

Well, I'm not an automtive techie, but I'm an IT techie. Several of the guys at work with me like the 3 also...one of them owns a Mazdaspeed Protege5, 2 others love their old 1991 Proteges, and someone just picked up a 6 recently I think.

Mazda, the premier brand of cool car for geeks everywhere. Maybe geeks of some form are the ones who can best appreciate Mazda?

z71bill

I called Mazda customer service yesterday to ask about the rear brake problem - was told they have a fix - they called my dealer and set up an appointment. I took the car in last night - just got it back today. I would say the rubbing noise has been reduced by 90%. I can still hear a slight rubbing sound just prior to stopping - like during the last 4-5 feet, but only if I turn the music off - and listen very closely. Based on what they wrote on the invoice it is hard to see how it would be a complete resolution to the problem - I plan on washing the car tomorrow and will see if it reduces the dust on the rear wheels. I do not think it will.

The invoice states:
remove rear brake pads, remove burrs on pad backing, lube and reinstall pads per Mazda TIPS MT000004325. The service guy told me that they did not turn the rotors.

roger341

Today, after driving car maybe ten minutes, I parked briefly for my wife to run an errand.

In less than five minutes, she returned and I turned the key. Nothing. No noise of any kind. Dead.

I removed the key and re-inserted. Still nothing. Waited a minute or so, removed and re-inserted key again and this time it started right up.

This is almost an exact duplicate of what happened the first time, couple weeks ago. Car turned off just a couple minutes, engine fully warmed up, but would not start until key re-inserted.

The key is attached to the remote with a thin wire loop. No other keys or metal.

I haven't seen this problem mentioned anywhere on this or other forums. The thing is, it seems to be only when the car is re-started shortly after turning it off.

mazda6s

Sounds like a problem with key identification, like the key reader isn't working, or maybe the computer is acting weird when hot. Or, maybe the key is defective.

Does it do it when the key is removed immediately when you stop, and only reinserted when you are ready to go? Just curious.

If you can establish a pattern, then maybe you can recreate it for the shop.

roger341

No, both times were when I turned off engine but left key in ignition. In most cases I take key out but in both of these occasions the key was left in the ignition since I didn't leave the car.

I'll try using the other key and see what happens.

mazda6s

I'd also be curious if it happens when the key isn't left in the switch at all. In other words, the key is removed upon stopping and then reinserted when you are ready to go.

roger341

This problem has never happened when the key has been removed from the switch and then re-inserted later. At least so far it hasn't.....

jschaffer180

Has anyone had any start up problems with their 3? I have a 3 hatchback with almost 3K on it and everytime I turn the ignition to start the car it takes an unusally long amount of time to start. Sometimes the car even shakes trying to start. I don't step on the gas or the brakes to let any fuel in and this only happens if the car has been sitting for more than 90min-2 hours (so every morning). I have taken it in twice and they can't find anything wrong, of course they have looked at it on the same day and I haven't had a chance to leave it overnight.

edgarem

A few folks have had fuel pump problems, and had to have them changed out almost immediately - search 'fuel pump' on this forum and you'll see a bunch of postings (if you haven't already!). Sounds like it could be yours.

zzz350

I have been trying to find the oil filter for the 2004 Mazda 3 (2.3L), no success. Does anyone know if that is the same filter for the Mazda 6 (2.3L)?

Mucho Gracias for the help.

regretful

Regarding you start up problems, I've been having the same problem. Although for me it started the day after I bought the car. I've actually left it at the dealership overnight and they haven't been able to reproduce the problem and essentially they told me, if they can't reproduce the problem, they won't replace the fuel pump. I have been doing this temporary fix where you turn the key to the on position without cranking it all the way, wait for the fuel gauge to fill up and then start the car, and I haven't had a repeat. Obviously there is something wrong though, and I'm still planning on taking it back to the dealership to get it fixed. I really don't like the idea of starting up my car as if it was an old broken down nintendo.

jschaffer180

Thanks for the Fuel Pump info. It sounds like a bunch of people are having this problem. Same thing happend when I took it in, they couldn't reproduce the problem and unfortunatly, you can't just walkin and say "I'd like a new fuel pump." Having to do stupid things so it starts right shouldn't have to happen. This car is fantastic otherwise.

edgarem

Final suggestion - if you get anymore run-arounds, raise hell with Mazda - they are well aware of the problem by now, with all the posts and a bunch of complaints and replacements.

zzz350

I must have asked the stumper guestion of all time, while every other perplexing quesiton seems to be able to be answered, the one I asked insurmountable.

Does the 2004 Mazda 3 2.3L use the same oil filter as the Mazda 6 2.3L?

If no one knows, I will have the satifaction of knowing I am "king question asker".

lovemymazda3

I just got my new mazda 3 but the dealer slap in their dealer name emblem on the car. Is there any good way to remove that ugly emblem on my new mazda 3?

Also I have the DVD base GPS system on my 3 and was wondering if I can used the dvd rom to play audio video dvd? If so, do I need to install a new system or software? Thanks!!

sftony

I know this forum has has plenty of posts related to paint problems on the Mazda3, but I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck with Miazda taking it seriously?

The paint, it seems, is chronically fragile. Rock chips and surface scratches are very easy to get - If I didn't know better, I'd say there was no clearcoat on my strato blue Mazda 3 at all. Too make matters worse, I tried to fill in some of the larger chips with a paint repair product called Langka (many of you will have heard of or used this product). However, after using it, the results were not so good. I contacted Langka, described the problem, and was told that the clearcoat on the car was to blame. 99.9% of people experience no problems, I was told, but the problem I had experienced occured when the manufacturer's clearcoat was different from the clearcoat on 99% of the cars out there... And I can vouch for the product working wonders on other cars I've owned. Anyone know why Mazda's clearcoat would be different? Is it possible that there is just something wrong with the clearcoat?

zzz350

Gracias MY for the sites, I'll check them out. However I will not relinquish my "king of question askers" title, just yet.

Paint problems: I also own a new 350Z and owners are complaining about the same fragile paint issues also. I think it is the new mandated paints that the gov't is making car makers use nowadays.

edgarem

And I keep asking the question - is there any correlation between colors and fragility? Because my silver GT after 4000 miles has nary a scratch, and the paint seems as tough as our old '92 Camry.

mazda6s

Just heat it up with a hair dryer and peel it off. Unless, of course, it's the screw-on type, in which case YOU are screwed.

jeremeymt

I have a 2004 Mazda 3 i model. I noticed today that when i parked on a hill and go to put the transmission into reverse the car makes a loud "clunk" sound and the you can feel the car shake. It does not do this on level groud. I am guessing its just the strain from being on a hill BUT should a new car do this? Also when driving it seems that going from 1st to 2nd gear is kinda rough compared to the other gears. I have the automatic transmission. Other than that no other problems! Let me know if anyone else is having the same "hill" issue. Try yours out if u havent tried it on a hill yet and see if yours does it so i know if its normal or not. THANKS!

halocline

... if you're using the parking break to hold the car rather than just the 'P' setting on the transmission?

npaladin2000

You're torque-locking the transmission...no way you're putting the parking/e-brake on, are you? This is a bad thing. Try using the parking brake sometime. Because What you're describing IS a normal symptom of not engaging the parking brake.

jeremeymt

Of course i am putting the car in P...and no i dont usually use the parking break.

jeremeymt

I dont usually use the parking brake. I probably should use it when i am on a hill. So i should put the car in R before i disengage the parking brake? Otherwise if i disengage the parking brake first and then put the car in R its just gonna do that same thing right? Its not a problem just an annoyance rather. Thanks for the help though.

Jeremey

kyfdx

The key is to engage your parking brake while you still have your foot on the brake pedal when parking your car.

It is what you do when you are parking it that causes the problem, not what you do when you are starting off.

regards,
kyfdx

npaladin2000

You should always put your foot on the brake pedal, put the car in P, and then engage the parking brake, then release your foot from the brake pedal. ESPECIALLY on a hill, but basically anytime you park the car. It places less stress on the transmission components by using the brake system to hold the car in place instead (and a tranny is a LOT more expensive to replace than a set of pads and rotors).

jeremeymt

ok i went out and did it. It worked! No more shaking and clunking noise. Should have known to use the parking brake! Duh! thanks

Jeremey

kyfdx

Lets beat this horse till its dead..

You should always engage the parking brake, anytime you are not behind the wheel, in any situation.

I have a commercial driver's license and not using the parking brake is a terminable offense.

regards,
kyfdx

mazdafun

For ATs, brake, shift into "N", engage the parking brake and lift off the brake pedal gently (your car should move just a bit, but if it moves too much, brake again and engage the parking brake more) and then shift into "P". ATs usually have a pawl or pin that engage in the "P" position. If your car shifts too much after being put into PARK, the transmission will a big noise and jolt when you shift out of "P" as the pawl now has a good load on it.

For MTs, use "R" after engaging the parking brake. On most transmissions, this is the lowest gear and will make the most use of engine braking to back-up your parking brake.

On occasion, you may have to have your parking brake cable readjusted as it does relax and stretch with use.

mdaffron

Man, we can beat this till it's decayed!

Meade

langod

I was taught (many years ago) that when parking a manual tranmission car on a hill, leave the tranny in 1st gear if the car is pointing UPhill, and leave it in reverse if the car is pointing DOWNhill.
Also leave the tires turned away from the curb if parking uphill and towards the curb if downhill.

Now -- that is one well and truly beaten horse.

kyfdx

Reverse all the time, because it is usually a lower gear than First and will hold better.

When parking UPhill and there is NO curb at the side of the road, turn your wheels towards the grass, otherwise the car will roll back into the street.

Okay..now he is dead.