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Comments
when using the A/C in the MZ3 make sure the Recirculate button is on.
It's called "normal." You have to let out the hot air to feel cooler; it's not just a matter of bringing in cold air, because the hot air already in the car can over-power it, and you need a 140 horsepower air conditioner just to feel fairly cool.
In a home air conditioner, the air drags the cool air in the house through a compressor and cools it, then spits it back out into the house. But in a car, in many cases, the air inside the car can be HOTTER than the air outside, so they're designed to bring air in from the outside (But it's a REAL good idea to crack a couple windows and help push the hotter air out). However, for those times when the air inside the car is cooler than the air outside, you can close off the vents and force the A/C unit to take the air from inside the car instead (in some cars, this is mislabled "Max A/C," which would be incorrect if the air in the car is hotter than outside).
Bottom line: you have to consider environmental factors and physics when using your car's A/C. Unlike a home A/C, a car A/C has a very limited amount of power to play with, so it's designed to use it as efficiently as possible. Though they may have tweaked the efficency part too much to deal with some of the darker colors in direct, intense sunlight.
Or maybe go out to dinner with some friends and when you arrive at the restaurant – all hot & sweaty – and hear comments like – next time let’s take my car – it has an air conditioner that works - you begin to understand that this is a real problem. All the little tricks and tips (although good ideas) do not make up for the fact that this AC system is defective.
But the best proof is the statement from Mazda’s customer service representative “I have spoken with our Product Engineering Department regarding your inquiry. They advised that Mazda is aware of this concern, and it is under further investigation with our Engineers in Japan”
You just have to understand that for Mazda to admit that they have a CONCERN - really means that they know that they have a problem.
It strikes me as strange that some owners are making excuses or suggesting that the people with the defective AC‘s are somehow responsible – like What have you done? – have you used a sun shade? Rolled the windows down to get the hot air out? My favorite – Crack the rear windows every few minutes while driving to let the hot air out and pull cool air out of the AC. OR - You should have known not to buy a black car. It is clearly Mazda’s responsibility to fix this issue and from what I see – they are starting to loose some sales. Maybe that will get them to step up and fix this problem.
All new cars have some level of problems – many times what separates the good from the poor is how the manufacturer & dealer handle them.
Mazda are you listening?
I never have to crack down the window or worry about evironmental factors and physics. Should be as easy as flippin' a switch, in my opinion.
I know there is someone who knows this answer, so I'm going to keep asking it until someone gives me the right answer.
As far as comparing a home and an automotive AC -system they are more alike than different. Actually the capacity of the auto AC is much greater than a home system - if you compare the cubic feet of air space that is being cooled.
If you turn the AC in your home off for a few days - like while on vacation - when you come home it will take an hour or more for it to cool down. The normal car only takes a few minutes to cool down even after sitting in the sun for hours.
This car is a blast to drive.
Yesterday I took the same trip - it was also a hot sunny day and the AC was so cold that I had to turn it down - but I was driving our Tahoe - left the Mazda at home because I don't like to sweat.
wondering when to bring it to the dealer -- has anyone had success (ie, new parts installed, problem fixed entirely) doing that? or must we wait until mazda is inundated with complaints and/or able to rectify this?
They even told me to go talk to the states attorney general - like it was an extension of their customer service department - what a joke but the joke is on me!
Maybe you could try calling Mazda customer service (800) 222-5500 (they will tell you to go see the dealer) - the dealer will tell you that nothing is wrong with the AC system and to call the 800 number. Try sending an E-mail to Mazda customer service. (mazdausa.com) Maybe you will get better results than I did.
I even ask Mazda if they had some objective standard to tell if the AC was working properly. The customer service rep said yes I am sure we do - I will put you on hold and get the information. About 5 muinutes later - the rep came back on the line and told me that Mazda does not have any standard - if the dealer says it is working then their is nothing they can do. She ask me if cool air was coming out of the vent - and said that it sounded like it was working.
IMO Mazda will do nothing to fix this problem until many many customers complain about it.
Tools Required:
10mm socket
17mm socket
Small slotted screwdriver
Torque wrench with a range of 10 n-m (88.5 lb-in / 7.4 lb-ft) to 30 n-m (265.5 lb-in / 22.1 lb-ft)
6mm hex head socket
76mm cap type oil filter wrench
Has anyone ever replaced the carpets on their car? Any car. What did it cost?
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/rx8/docs/07-002-04.html
I had read that the RX-8 has some AC problems - even found a few links that made reference to the RX-8 & AC problems on several lemon law sites - but I could not get any of them to open.
It would seem logical that parts like AC amplifiers would be shared between models. But I do not even know what an AC amplifier is.
I really like this car and want to get it, but that one thing really bothered me on the test drive. Does anyone have any fix ideas?? Does anyone know if having the seats changed out professionally might in some way help? Thanks!
Clearly you live nowhere near a city like Boston where every restaurant and cafe has an army of valets. Personally, I dislike the whole idea of letting some minimum wage kid mistreat and illegally park my car, but I still miss having a valet key (I had one for my 10yo Integra :-)
BTW, if you guys are first-time Mazda owners, feel lucky about one "new" feature they've added -- one I've always damned Mazda for never having in any Protege -- one you'd really think would be standard on all cars and finally is on the 3 --
A LIGHT IN THE #$!$%& GLOVEBOX!!!
Meade
I don't see it as a problem , but just wondering if anyone else has this noise or if anyone knows what it is. I assume it has something to do with the brake system. I have read that Toyota cars make a noise as the anti-lock brakes go through some kind of a system check.
Meade
As long as I am talking about brakes -
I complained about my rear brakes noise and dust- customer service has a fix ( Mazda TIPS #MT000004235)- I took the car in about 1 month and 900 miles ago. They removed the burrs from the brake pad backing, lubed and re installed the pads. I did not think it would do much - but the amount of brake dust on the rear brakes has been reduced & the noise level is less.
I would say now the rear wheels only have 2 times as much brake dust as the front. Before the fix it was 5 times more dust on the rear. Whatever they did helped the problem. But did not completely eliminate it. IMO it would not be worth a special trip into the dealer - but if you are in there for something else I would get it done.
We have had a 1994 Mazda3 5 door hatchback (GT) for about 2 months and I noticed with even the slightest load the back end bottoms out when hitting bumps. I know the car is low to the ground but this is excessive what I am hearing and feeling. I took a 2 hour drive on the highway and maybe had 250lbs in the back seat and hatch and it hit 30-40 times on the highway.
The tech says its likely the shock stoppers rather than the car actually hitting the pavement.
Anyone else experiencing this?
Also what about the widespread problem of the drivers side airbag NOT working and censor acting up.
Lastly the gearshift light in (automatic) has died, cant see what gear I am in during darkness.
I just took it in today to get that fixed.
Troy
I really liked the car, a lot actually. And was very surprised that the loaded version, with GPS, etc., was still only around $22K.
However, with all the problems posted by owners, I am very hesitant to buy this vehicle. I may end up in an RSX.
The only gripe I actually had, was I couldn't tell if the trunk is large enough for 2 golf bags, let alone 1 bag. hehe
But after that the shifts are so smooth it is hard to tell that the car has even changed gears.
This is a new situation - the car did not have a hard 1-2 shift until this week. Anyone else have this problem?
I am starting to think I have a lemon.
The gearshift light was fixed and so was the airbag sensor, no big deal.
However the rear end scrapping under any load is still tp be dealt with. The tech says it might be the tires hitting the wheel well.
I have no idea at this point and I am not sure if I would buy this car again.
They also sell the GT with very lousy 17' tires, can just about hydroplane yourself right into the graveyard even at 40mph.
When I first start the car the idle speed is about 2K RPM - which is normal - but before within the first few seconds the idle speed would slow down to around 1K RPM - after car is warmed up it runs about 750 RPM. But now my idle speed is staying closer to 2K for the first minute or so of driving - the higher idle speed is the cause of the harsh shift. The temperature here is close to 80 degrees - so it is not cold.
The funny thing I noticed was that the FRONT rims were coated in brake dust, and the rears were pretty clean!!
i wonder if they have our rear brakes put on their front!!
Ray
Toronto
Ti GT/GFX 4dr
Ken
The 3 should not be bottoming out at all even under a load, unless your going over a big bump TOO FAST. I loaded mine with 6 5-gallon containers of paint and a airless paint sprayer and hauled it like it was nothing - I thought the firm suspension helped with a load. Good luck.
p.s. Memorial week-end my 3 hatch was the talk of the family picnics - everyone loved it and couldn't believe a car could be so nice inside and out for 18-19k. I'm one of those used to be Honda owners - I'll never go back! I saw a new v6 accord coupe - looks like a piece of pie with wheels on it. It's pathetic looking - just too sleek with no character at all. Why spend 26k for a 240 hp engine? I plan on trading my 3 in 5 years for the next generation 3 mazdaspeed. I have no desire to ever own another car...take that to the bank Honda!!
I wonder if it's more effective oh humid heat than it is on dry heat?
I did notice something a bit unusual though. Sometimes, since I smoke, I drive with my window cracked and flick, ya know? Well, I had the A/C going, it was pretty warm outside, and I went to crack the window and it went all the way down (I pushed the switch too hard). Anyway, i'd swear the A/C got even COLDER once the window was wide open. Not quite used to that.
Of course, what I WAS used to was a beat up 96 Chevy with an A/C system that needed a recharge.
The other day, I had clanking going on whenever I made a left or right turn like a bad cv joint. Dealer tightened up these bolts to the drive shaft that had come loose??? Noise gone.
Now my left front brake makes a clink/clang noise in the first few feet of pulling away after it has been sitting awhile.....What in the World is going on???????
I'm buying a Mazda 3. I like the Winning Blue better, but I'm worried about how quickly it gets dirty (i.e. better or worse than black). My other option is Titanium Gray, but I really prefer the Blue.
Ken
I think the issue really has to do with the new juice that replaced freon. It just isn't as effective as the good old stuff (damn enviromentalists). The same thing has happened to the quality of car paints (double damn those enviromentalists).
IMO it is not the R-134A that is causing the problem - It is in the control system.
Sometimes when I first turn on the AC the air temp will drop all the way down to 38 degrees - for about 3 seconds - then it jumps to 45 degrees - then it slowly moves up to 54 degrees. At this point it starts to fluctuate between 54 and 59 degrees. Once in a while the temp will drop back to 48 degrees - and it also will sometimes jump all the way up to 63 degrees. But again - most of the time it is between 54 and 59.
My other vehicles air temp also fluctuates - but they stay between 46 and 50 degrees. Not as big of a range (comparing 48 and 63)- and also much cooler air. Although it is normal for a compressor to cycle on and off - the Mazda3 is in a constant state of turning on and off.
You would think that even if the system is putting out air that is 54 - 59 degrees it would cool the car. But the car remains sweaty hot.
BTW - I always run in recirculate mode - fan speed 3.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
I saw a wagon the other day, and noticed the rear wheel was absolutely covered in brake dust...but the front was perfectly clean. Not even a light dusting...and I was sitting beside it at a light.
I understand maybe something is wrong with the rear brakes, but would not the front STILL have brake dust?? Perhaps the problem is actually with the front brakes not doing their job properly and the rear brakes are overcompensating?
Just a thought.