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Comments
I am having this problem occur during the first few (two or three) shifts every morning -
It also shifts very harsh once in a while - during normal operation.
It almost feels like it is hits neutral for a fraction of a second between gears - I am also starting to get a clunk sound.
Most of the time the shifts are so smooth I can't even tell the car has changed gears.
I checked the fluid - which is the only thing I can think of to check - it seems fine. So clean I can barely see it on the dipstick.
BTW my Mazda3 just hit 4,000 miles.
Brake dust is heavier in the rear(non-ABS)than the fronts...to me not an issue...must be break bias setting issue that keeps the front from diving.
Avg. 34 mpg(no a/c) w/ a 5 speed @ 65mph..going 70-75mph drops mpg down to 28mpg(no a/c). With a/c going on you could knock another 2mpg off each of my figures.
Fuel seems to make a difference on mileage I have noticed. Econo brands = fuel w/less btu content per gallon.
Name brands, i.e., Texaco/Chevron = higher btu content per gallon. With 2 tanks of Chevron brand having been run through my car I'm seeing 35.5 mpg @ 65mph.
I'd be curious as to what others are experiencing here.
Also, if I have violated any rules in posting a name brand product, im sorry.
All in all, after 2k miles, I really enjoy this car and would not hesitate in recommending it to others or a family member.
Regards,
Mazda automatic transmissions have a tendency to do that before the car is fully warmed up. I had this issue on a Protege'5. Did not do it when new, but once it had some miles on it, this characteristic showed up and 'stayed' until I traded it on a 3. Dealer said it has to do with the transmission fluid getting up to operating temp. After it was warm, no problem except for the very rare times that it would almost refuse to change into second gear from a 1st gear stop. It was rare and the dealer could never duplicate the problem.(go figure). I am not sure about the 'clunking' noise you are hearing...as I did not experience that one. So whenever I first got going in the car, I would just take it "real easy" on that first, second and third takeoff until the car warmed up and the transmission seemed normal. These computer controlled transmissions are a trip and we have to take the good of them with the bad of them I guess.
thanks for any insights!
My Mazda3 shifted 100% smooth - I would even say it was the smoothest (don't think that is even a word) automatic I have ever owned. Up until about 3,500 miles. Then one morning BAM - the first 2 shifts were very harsh. Now some mornings it is smooth - others I get the harsh clunky shift.
Another observation: it seems the engine and transmission love the warmer temps. I noticed this driving home yesterday - about 85f outside - the car just felt super smooth and quick engine and tranny -more so than in the morning??? Just a thought. My old Accord liked it at 65-70 degrees. It sounds strange but I can tell by the feel of the engine - my wife thinks I'm nuts. I really love this car, how it sounds, feels. It just has a great compact, or tight, engine blur. A past poster termed it "cutesy" which I can understand, but I like to think of it as "tight". Also, spent some time palying with autostick tranny on the highway - downshifting from 4-3 at 60mph to simulate a pass. It shifts quick, and works great as long as you punch the throttle quickly too. Downshift and gun it right away, and it almost feels like a manual minus clutch. Great car! Engine and tranny seem so solid....
Maybe I should just start off in 2nd gear in the morning - then would I get a harsh 2-3 shift?
I called Yakima yesterday and they said they're investigating how to mount one on a Mazda 3. The customer service rep said that it could be a month if one of their current designs works or a few months if they need to design a new one.
The interesting thing is that the Mazda 3 brochure that I got from the mazda dealer shows a rack on the 3 on the accessories page. It says in small letters near the picture that "aftermarket rack shown"... what ever that means. Looks like a Thule rack to me, but I can't tell for sure.
Has anyone put a rack on their M3 yet? If so, what brand, how's it working etc...
I test drove a hatch on Monday and really liked it, but did notice that my back was really sweaty after my 20 minute or so test drive. The air felt cool to maybe cold, but I'm nervous if at lot of people have having issues.
BTW, I live in albuquerque so it's hot and dry out here. Seems like some folks have felt that their AC was ok, but folks have liked it better in the humid climates...
Anyone have any comments? Added themselves after the fact?
Go to: http://home.earthlink.net/~navybob1/
Link for instructions is in the upper right corner. You need Adobe Acrobat reader to view and the file is 2.7MB.
You can buy the mirror from: http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=1674 for $244
Mark
Nice guy, but come on... don't these guys feel embarrassed when someone comes to look at their cars and the consumer knows more than they do??
What bothers me MORE than the problem itself is the way Mazda is handling it / or not handling it. Same thing with the rear brake dust situation - Mazda does not consider it a problem.
Mazda will no longer even answer the E-mails I send them - I must be on their list of customers who they know will never again make the mistake of buying another Mazda.
Also, I heard that if you have a regular autobody maintain your car (i.e. oil change) it won't void your warranty (as long as you have a appropriate documentation saying the maintenance was completed). It will void only if you need to repair/fix the car and you bring it to someone who is not an authorized mazda dealer/autobody. Can you guys help me confirm this? (sorry, I dont have the book with me right now and am just very very curious)
Thanks!
Schedule 2 is used if you drive in dusty conditions, repeated short trips bla bla bla-
IMO the first rotation should be at 5,000 - then every 7,500 miles after that -
The first rotation should be done sooner - it is a long boring explanation as to why this is best and I will spare the details.
Also, I heard that if you have a regular autobody maintain your car (i.e. oil change) it won't void your warranty (as long as you have a appropriate documentation saying the maintenance was completed). It will void only if you need to repair/fix the car and you bring it to someone who is not an authorized mazda dealer/autobody. Can you guys help me confirm this? (sorry, I dont have the book with me right now and am just very very curious)
Thanks!
Is the bumper, being plastic, really all that susceptible to noticeable damage? It cost an extra $300 just for the bumper so I wonder if it is really worth the cost. Thank you for your input.
Hopefully, if the sun hides behind the clouds a bit today I can get a coat of Meguiars NXT on today. But not a chip, not a scratch, in 2 months. A few bits of scoring from rocks, but they rub right off.
http://www.japanparts.com/Pic/pic143/016-107.htm
Meade
Do the cloth seats cause a lot of sweating ?
Any go for a higher end leather than the current leather offered?
Also does anyone know if there will be any changes in the 2005?
I'm still lurking and waiting to buy. I like the
fact one can tow up to 2000 pounds (if the trailer also has breaking ability).
Meade
-----------------------------------------------
09-015/04 2004 MAZDA3 - STAINS ON PAINT
Note: This bulletin contains revised sections. Please update your records accordingly.
BULLETIN NOTE
* This bulletin supersedes last issued 04/26/2004. The APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS information has been revised.
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2004 MAZDA3 with VINs lower than JM1 BK**** 41 174130
DESCRIPTION
Paint stains may be present on the hood, roof, and/or trunk after removal of RAPGARD material. The concern may be more noticeable in areas of cold ambient temperatures. This is caused by moisture trapped between the paint and RAPGARD.
Vehicles having this concern should use the following repair procedure.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
The following procedure requires a 1000W (100V AC) heat gun.
NOTE:
* This repair procedure requires hot air. Before getting started on the repair, be sure to remove rubber parts or other parts which are easily affected by heat in the surrounding areas.
* Use extreme care to maintain a surface temperature below 140 C (284 F).
1. Place heat gun approximately 5 cm (2 inches) from stained surface for 20 seconds.
2. Then move heat gun approximately 10 cm (4 inches) from stained surface and apply heat for a maximum of 20 minutes. Use a slow, back and forth motion to control heat.
NOTE: Do not apply heat for longer than 20 minutes, or surface damage may occur.
3. If the above steps do not remove the stains, refinish the affected surface(s).
WARRANTY INFORMATION
NOTE:
* This warranty information applies only to verified customer complaints on vehicles eligible for warranty repair. Refer to the SRT microfiche for warranty term information.
* Additional diagnostic time cannot be claimed for this repair.
So I guess the Mazda6 (or my parents' 626) encourages drivers to look at maps while driving (maybe because there's no NAV option).
No seriously, it's cost cutting, in France, where they drive on the left-side, the pocket is on the right-seatback. Many Euro reviews have complained about cost-cutting on the Mazda3 (this being one of them).
... Soooooo, instead of positioning the map pocket behind the passenger seat where you can reach your map without looking, they'd rather place your map pocket in a place where you've got to bend like an acrobat (and probably take your eyes off the road in the process) to reach anything?
If we follow the logic stated above, we can only assume that Mazda thinks cupholders near the floor on the doors won't cause people to take their eyes off the road. Likewise, having radio knobs a half-foot away from the display associated with them is also very intuitive, right?
Seriously, it is cost-cutting ... but if that's the only cost-cutting measure that's so apparent to us, consider yourselves fortunate.
Among the formerly standard items that were "left out" as a result of cost cutting on my 3rd-generation 2000 Protege (and yes, it's an ES) are:
- Lighted ignition switch
- Locking rear seatbacks
- Locking glovebox
- Rear armrest
- Rear ashtray
- Door-mounted static discharge buttons
- Low-washer-fluid warning light
- Valet key and lockout feature for trunk
Did I leave any out, Protege owners?
At least they've brought most of this stuff back in the Mazda3, and finally, for the FIRST time in the 3/Protege series, installed a FREAKIN' LIGHT in the glovebox!!!
My 2000 Protege ES might be doing just fine and dandy at 77,000 miles, but I really am getting excited about the Screaming Pumpkin Mica Mazda3 I'm going to trade it for next May!
Meade
I read that some 2.3L engines are fouling spark plugs - so I decided to pull a plug and take a look.
First of all I will give Mazda some credit - the plugs are very easy to get to - in fact by far the easiest to remove I have ever seen.
MY QUESTIONS
My plug is an NGK ITRF13 - can someone with a 2.3L 2005 Mazda3 look in their owners manual and tell me if this is the same plug number - think it is in section number 10 specifications - I read that Mazda has an upgraded plug that they are using - so I am wondering if the 2005 uses a different plug.
The plug does not look like it is fouled - but I have never seen a spark plug that looks like this one - I am wondering if it is normal.
The tip of the plug - which is normally a little round cylinder - actually comes to a very sharp point - it looks like it was put in a pencil sharpener. Anyone know if this is normal? It looked light gray in color which IMO means it is burning clean.
If the 2005 uses the same number as the 2004 (NGK ITR6F13) then does anyone know what the number is of the upgraded plug Mazda is using ?
1) Whenever I back up my brakes always squeak, but only packing up, never in Drive.
2) I've taken it to get fixed twice, but whenever I go over a bump I hear a squeak coming from what sounds like the chasis. It isn't the tires or brakes, but the vehicle itself and they can't seem to get that threw their heads in service.
3) Worst of all, the car always takes longer to start then it should. It catches, but it isn't pretty. I was told on this board that it may be the fuel pump but the dealership said no and told me the computer didn't pick up anything. The computer? Isn't there another way they can look?
I've had this car 6 mos and for the most part all the big stuff is fine, but this is really irratating and embarrassing.
My only other problem has been other people, namely Civic owners looking on in jealousy.