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Comments
How bout taking the console apart??? How tough was that?? Did they provide instructions on that?? Anybody got any pics?? Thanks for the help!!
Like someone already said the 15 minutes for installation seems a little underestimated especially if you want to take your time and not have anything fall into your transmission. As you can see the instructions are fairly detailed and easy to follow. It is a definite improvement that I highly suggest. Best product I've bought so far for my Taco. Next up, the 63-9025 K&N.
How is that useful on a street vehicle?
:surprise:
I've heard that on the Access cabs there is some wind noise that comes from the back of the cab. It has been traced to a cab vent behind the plastic panels on the back wall, around the passenger rear seatback area. It's there to keep pressure equalized when you close the doors of the truck and turn on the A/C. You could plug the hole with some home furnace air filter material, which would let cab pressure out, but muffle the wind noise.
Won a part they had listed. Sent them my CC information. They charged me for the part, then never shipped it. Also refused to return emails on the subject. Finally had to have my CC company refund me the money.
If you read though his reviews you'll find lots of experiences like that.
And the capper...when I left a review just stating the experience I had, like above, he lied and wrote a crappy counter review, but offered to remove it if I removed mine. How dirty is that?
Thanks,
Joe
Anybody noticed this yet or are you so thrilled with your tacoma that you ignore it.
http://www.jbaheaders.com/05Toyotanew.asp
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks for the reply,
Joe
That I understand completely. Hot rod stuff for appearance probably goes back to some guy sewing fur to his saddle to show off to cave woman. Chrome, carbon, it's all cool! :shades:
It's the performance benefit claims on a daily driver, near the redline that make me say "whaa...." Marketing...
Thanks a lot.
Andy
When looking behind the dash, what am I looking for? Is it accessible from under the dash or does something need to be removed.
herkey, have you done this mod?
Lee :confuse:
:shades:
The pressure marked on the tire is the max rated pressure for max load.
If you multiply the max tire load rating (which is per tire) x 2, and check the load you have on that axle, you'll probably find that the rating numbers are far larger. (and they should be)
The tire will "flatten out" on the ground to the point that the contact patch area multiplied by the air pressure will equal the load on the wheel. (OK, that's a bit of a simplification, ignoring the stiffness of the tread and the centrifugal forces when you're rolling, but close enough for discussion) If the pressure is too low for the load, you have a big flat spot (the extreme is when you have no positive air pressure in the tire and you have a "flat"). Lower pressures give you bigger contact areas (which is why real low pressures can make it easier to negotiate sand on a beach) and a softer "spring" to the tire. However, this results in more sidewall flexing, which not only gives you spongier response to steering inputs, but will also overheat the sidewalls at highway speeds and ultimately can result in tire failure (as in the Ford Exploders, although there were other factors there as well). On the other end, over inflation results in a stiff ride, but a small contact patch. This gives you lower rolling resistance, but less traction in general (with some exceptions under the right circumstances on wet roads). The smaller contact area means that a smaller patch of rubber has to shear (as in "peeling out" or screeching around a curve) to lose traction.
The vehicle manufacturer has to select the appropriate pressure to handle the rated axle loads for the vehicle so as to balance rolling resistance, traction, flexing of the sidewalls, and ride comfort. (This is why vehicles sometimes have different pressure settings for front vs. rear, and in some cases for trucks, you may have a different pressure setting for loaded vs empty cargo box.)
Also,another reason there are lower pressure settings for front tires is that they are the most "active" tires on a front engine vehicle. They'll heat up quicker because they not only support the load of the engine, but also accumulate the additional friction caused by steering through turns. They will heat up quicker than the rear tires and theoretically reach the something near the same pressure as the rear tires after driving awhile.
From what I was told from Toyota is that they do not install cruise themselves because they view it as a liability issue - they told me they always get an outside company to install it. Good luck.
the foglights work any time the switch is turned on... downside, is the key off and door open will not turn them off... just for kicks i installed yellow gold fog bulbs, and love them.... the mod is simply reversible by replacing the orig toyota relay.....
This isn't the exact mod I did but it's similiar. This is NOT my writeup.
"I wanted to be able to turn my fog lights on anytime that the ignition is on, so that you don't have to have any marker or headlights on. And you can still turn them on and off with the stock switch in the dash. So if you leave the button ON the fog lights will come on whenever the truck is on, just like daytime running lights. And they will shut off automatically whenever you turn the ignition off. To do it I just pulled the fog light relay out and bent the top-right terminal over, so I could fit a female spade connector to it. This is the connection that tells the relay to turn on. You can use a small wire because very low current is required. I pulled the ignition fuse and soldered a small 26 guage wire to the inside edge of the fuse blade. I pushed the spade connector onto the relay terminal and then stuck the fuse back in."