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Comments
"Thanks for the warranty info. You save me $290-. The best price I had found on the Toyota Platinum 7yr 75,000mile -0- deductible was $920- (which I had ordered a week ago and was able to cancel). The price for the same warranty at your recommended dealership was $630-. "
I have a tap & die set on order that includes metric thread chasers, when it comes in I will try to clean the threads, and re-mount my boards with all the bolts!
If you crawl under your truck with a flashlight, you can see all the way up, to the bottom of the bed rails. I seem to remember there being a stake pocket under the protector, but I honestly can't remember. I have an Access Cab, the shorter box may be different.
The Lund does look good - just pop your hood and make sure it closes back first... :sick:
bed mat - best item so far; keeps things from sliding around in the back and adds an extra bit of protection for the floor
ashtray - don't smoke but use this for coins/small items. I have the automatic with the two nice cup holders in front. The small rear cup holder is basically useless except for cans. This is where the ashtray sits.
large cleats - I didn't know these came four to a set so I ended up with more than I need at the moment. I used two for the bike mount, see below.
bike mount kit - this mounts on top of the large cleat. Holds the fork of a bike when you remove the front wheel.
small cleat - nice little cleats. I put these on the front rail to secure small items.
bed net - fits pretty good. I sometimes haul some lightweight items and this is an easy way to keep them from flying out.
cargo net - attaches to two of the large cleats. Used to keep small items from rolling around. Would fit better in the long bed. On my short bed, the wheel wells protrude into the bed. The net is the full width of the bed but it works ok.
spare tire lock - cheesy installation. It will work but not the greatest design.
wheel locks - must have ordered the wrong ones. The are quite a bit taller than the original lug nuts and look funny. Took them back off and will try to locate the correct ones.
tie down rings - for the front of the bed. Supposed to mount to the side of the bed near the front per instructions. Have not put them in yet. Will do that this week. Not really a good place to put these.
I also bought these, for strapping the nose of kayaks and canoes down, and to keep 10-12' long hardwood lumber from tipping off the tailgate. This required force from the floor, not the sides of the bed. The stress I'm applying isn't that great, I might be leery of them if I was say, holding a motorcycle vertical. I also would be reasonable when tightening ratchet straps, as some better made versions are capable of extreme force. I actually bent a steel utility trailer with one. :surprise:
I ignored the enclosed directions and found a more useful spot for them on the floor of the bed. Mine are near the corner drain holes. If you do this, make sure there is proper clearance for the backing plates on the underside of the bed. The fact that the bed can be drilled without inviting rust is pretty cool. The bed material is quite durable, my sharp drill bit produced long, fiber reinforced curls, similar to properly drilled mild steel.
A few fortnights back, I put the widest tires that would fit the stock rims on my '85 Toyota 4x2. They LOOKED GREAT! However, the wide tires, mixed with a lightweight rear end, caused some extremely interesting moments in rain storms.
Thanks.
Wheels: 16x8, Offset of +1, and Back Spacing of 4.5".
Truck: '05 PreRunner TRD Sport, DC, LB, w/ tow.
Tires: I'm hoping you guys/gals can tell me what size to get, but I'm seriously eyeing the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo.
PS. I'll have the TRD Sport tire & wheel package in exellent used condition for sale soon, if anyone is interested. hammaa at yahoo dot com. THANKS!!
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kcram - Pickups Host
After my weekend of talking to tire guys I had decided to do exactly what you did just going to a bigger 15. Very interesting fact about the speedo being off before the bigger tires, sounds like they did put the wrong tires on it. The biggest concern I had was just what you said to much tire for the 2.7L. The pic would be great to show the banker (wife). Once she found out how much the rims we liked cost and the tires on top of that she kinda freaked.
If she sees what just bigger tires do for the look I may be able to slip the rims (300 each) in with them.
I am only on my third tank of gas and figure it is still to early to get a mileage reading, but I do know it is better then my old 93 Cutlass V6. I am also in Canada and our gallon is bigger then yours (6 of yours = 5 of ours) so that changes the result some. When I get a few more miles on it I will do the calculation and let you know.
I like this truck more every time I drive it.
Jim
I have a '99 that is about 9mph high with P225 75 R15s on it, I was told by the dealer that the size originally ordered with the truck was the P265 75R15 which according to their tire guide is about a 2" increase in height. I need to figure out the correct size before I go and buy another set of tires so I only do it once.
Thanks for your help.
Stock 215 70r 15 Destination LE's are 23 lbs., 225 75r 15 Destination LE's are 30 lbs. If you going with 16" wheels, go 225 70r 16 or 235 65r 16. My preference would be the 225 70r 16.
I wish I could find a set of 16" Highlander wheels for cheap!
:shades:
The biggest problem I had was finding a dealer who was willing to get me the options I wanted without trying to tell me all the other options that he "just knew" I would need. Thankfully there are 5 Toyota dealerships within 50 miles or so of me, had to go to the 3rd one to get one who actually wanted to listen to me...but that's a whole other topic!
Anyway, as with any new vehicle I want to customize it a bit. I've already ordered ventvisors and a bug shield. I've been looking at running boards. I've looked through some of the postings about running boards vs. nerf bars etc., I'm wondering if anyone has pics posted of a Taco with the factory running boards so I can see just how they look. Also do they come painted, chromed, or what?
I apologize if this has already been discussed, I haven't had time to search all the posts yet.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
It seems that the stock tire size you mention (265 75r 15) would be about right.
:shades:
Thanks for the help.
Just to double-check, I went on the K&N site and found that the 2004 4-runner air filter # is the same # as the K&N I just put in my '05 Taco. I love the Amsoil stuff but I've always had good luck with the K&N air filters. Just installed it yesterday actually. I think it runs smoother but it's most likely all in my head.
Just got my skid plate, sill protectors today! Can't wait to blow this popsicle stand and mount that puppy. Besides it's gorgeous out! :shades:
SNUGTOP
You'll forget it's there.
I have the same truck & package and tow an enclosed utility trailer that's 1000 pounds empty. With a loaded weight of 3000 behind it, the truck dosen't flinch. Double check toyota.com, but I'm pretty sure the OG package sets the truck up to tow 6500 with trailer brakes. After pulling 3k a few times, I have no doubt this truck is honestly rated.
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by the way, is the warranty "bumper to bumper" with $0 deductible ?
I'm not so sure that's accurate for an '05. I've had my radio completely out of my '05 TWICE, without disconnecting the battery first, without problems. However, disconnecting the battery is usually a good idea.
Just reading the posts on this I was wondering if maybe the transponder chip had anything to do with deactivating the radio. I know that anytime I did work with my BMW I always left the key in the ignition, not on but just in the ignition. If I didn't or the battery was just disconnected, I was always asked for my code given in the owner's manual to reactivate the radio.
It would be a nice security feature if the transponder had to be in the vicinity in order to take out the radio and have it work again. Not that there is much of a market for a stock Tacoma radio that won't fit into any other application.
Just wondering, no idea for sure.
Thanks
The tailgate on these trucks are brutal. I bent mine from my snowmobile and I know someone else who bent theirs with their 4 wheeler. I complained to Toyota Canada and got no where. They did some research and said that the tailgate can only hold 200pds. HELLO, where would the consumer find this info when truck shopping or after they bought it. No salesman will tell you that you trucks tailgate can only hold 200pds. I was reading the review of the new Honda Ridgeline on MSN and it mentioned in their article about what the tailgate can hold (300pds), now that is smart.
What's more, its has less to do with load and more to do with "moment" (lbs.ft or NM). Hold 2 bags of sugar with your arms next to legs and then do the same with your arms outstretched - you'll see the difference.
Good luck in any case.
I'm 6'1", 240, and stand on my gate on a regular basis, without using any special care. That sounds like a pretty conservative estimate.
Maybe it's how the weight is applied, and how the vehicle is driven with the weight on the gate?
I'd probably remove the gate if loading a quad or riding mower, as the weight would end up concentrated way out near the tip while loading. I also probably would not drive the truck with that kind of weight on the open gate. When I move my own wide cut, walk-behind mower, I do it with a trailer, simply because it's so much easier to load on a low deck.
I haven't taken ownership yet. I want to talk to the sales manager first to dispute one item on the purchase agreement. I'd like to hear what others think about this, and to warn other shoppers to watch out for this.
There is an item described as "THEFT DETERRENT/REGISTRATION" for which they are charging $288+tax. My understanding is that this item includes window etching plus some insurance coverage should the vehicle be stolen and not recovered. I don't want to pay for this extra insurance coverage. I already pay too much money for auto insurance and I don't want or need this extra theft insurance.
What I'm curious about is whether the "window etching" part of this has any value or merit?
I have done some reading and I realize that I could get the etching done by a third party or purchase a kit and do it myself for probably less than $50. But I'm wondering whether there is really any value to doing this anyway? Or should the vehicle already have enough VIN identification when it leaves the factory to make this extra window etching pretty much useless?
Do some vehicles come from the factory with the VIN etched in the window glass?
If so, is the Tacoma in this category?
Unfortunately, in the excitement of the purchase, I missed this detail when I signed the purchase agreement, and it didn't occur to me until now to question this charge. I don't know if there is any chance of me getting them to drop this charge given that I've already signed the purchase agreement, but if they are a reputable dealer then they wouldn't be forcing this on me. I do know that if they don't drop this charge and I accept delivery of the vehicle that I will never take the vehicle back to this particular dealership for service, so it will be their loss in the end. That's my only consolation at this point.
Buyer beware.
Thanks for the thoughts and/or information concerning my post. Is there anything I need to specify when ordering the truck...ie...heavy duty radiator and or oil/transmission fluid cooler?
DL
Exactly why I'm ordering it with 4WD. The S-10, I've been towing it with, has done well except for getting it out of icy or mud slicked boat ramps. Thanks for the thoughts.
DL