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Comments
tnt67
(I live in AZ too)
Thanks for the response.I had the truck in once already for the popping noise.They drove it,but did not hear noise.I will have to take the time to ride with the tech so I can point it out.Thanks again.
Ken
i might have a story to top yours. I first tried to buy mine before xmas 04. Then went back after the yr - in Jan - and put the order in late Jan. In July, i got my "Allocation" - thats what Toyota calls it when they have to special order something that the company doesnt make. Since i had done business with this dealer in the past - i do beleive that the dealer did everything they can to get it. I wasnt in any hurry - and was on-again-off-again - as far as wanting to buy it - but when it finally showed up in July - boy that was an easy decision. IT was worth the wait. I had to finally give up a little - and forgot about it for weeks - thats probably what got me thru the whole ordeal. But if you ask me Toyota (not the dealers) screwed the pooch on this one very very bad. I coudnt beleive i couldnt buy it. I too had done and built and asked for quotes all over so. calif - and everytime they called - i loved to mess with them - i told them if they can find it in 10 min - ill stop by and buy it at whatever price they wanted.
Gotta love these Tacomas !!!! Moral of the STORY : Its worth the WAIT. Just Wait and youll get what you want !!!!!
Just my $.02
Ken
PS - In no way shape or form would I call a salesman a professional. It's like calling a NASCAR driver an athlete....... You just don't do it.
Ken
The sales sharks that he talked to got all excited in their quest to make a quick buck.
I know I have encountered a lot more sales sharks than professionals in my lifetime.
I don't judge dsrtsanddad's character one way or another because he had some fun with somebody that probably wasn't doing anything productive anyway. If the sales sharks would start treating their job like a profession, we would all benefit.
I went to one dealership, that I saw carried a lot of trucks and had a good sale going on, but they didn't have what I wanted. They tried to sell me something I really didn't want anyway, the old high pressure situation (call over the manager to tell me I'm bustin' their balls on such a good deal). I went home, looked at another dealer, they had exactly what I wanted, so I went in told the sales guy the exact stock # I wanted and explained the situation from the other dealership. He offered me the same deal as the other dealership. Give respect to get respect. The financial office was another story. I think she took personal offense that I didn't want the $800 scotchgard job or the $500 alarm.
Long story, but my point is that everyone thinks the same way going into a dealership "they're gonna screw me". Just knowing first hand how it feels to deal with a customer that is irate/unreasonable/ or thinks he/she somehow deserves the employee discount, it sucks. Now there are some shady sales people out there, no question, but make sure they are given a chance before you decide they need to be given a hard time. I'm sure you wouldn't like being treated that way.
Sirius also has the NFL come September.
Well, I figured I'd fix that. Toyota could have easily done this, but decided not to for some reason.
When I open the door I want the dome light AND the map lights to come on at the same time. But I also want to be able to turn the map lights on and off independently of the dome light. It took me a couple hours, but I got it to work, and the cab is lit much better now. Entering and leaving the cab seems more "luxurious" .
If you don't know how to wire a relay then you need to Google it and read up. I can't explain all the details of hooking up a relay. Relay terminals are usually given numbers; 30, 85, 86, 87, and sometimes 87a which does the same thing as 87.
First I took down the overhead console, then the dome light. Take the lens of the dome light off by using a small pick or screwdriver and stick it in that groove on the driverside of the lens. Then the rest of the dome light comes down when you pull on it. It's held up with 2 metal clips. The overhead console is held in my one screw in the sunglass holder, and then there are 2 clips that hold the other end up. Just pull down on it.
On the back of the overhead console there is the smaller plug which powers the dome lights. It has 3 terminals on the plug, but only two wires are connected to the plug. This 3rd unused terminal, is the key to making this mod work. I think that Toyota made the provisions for this mod, but never finished it. The terminal on the right is constant power, the terminal in the middle is ground, and the terminal on the left will turn both of the map lights on when 12+ volts applied to it. So I bent the extra terminal out so that I could solder a wire to it.
BTW, this mod would have been a lot easier if the dome light had two positives and one negative. Anyway, the dome light always has constant power. When you turn the switch to ON it connects the ground and the light comes on. When you turn the switch to DOOR the door pin switch connects to ground when the door is opened and then the light turns on. So the dome light wiring has one positive and two grounds. The blue wire on the dome light harness is the one that goes to the door pin switch. You have to tap into this one. I used a red splicer to tap into the blue wire without having to cut it. That is the only time where you have to run wire. You have to run from the console back to the dome light. Just pull the headliner down a little bit and fish a small wire through. This wire will be the one doing the actual switching on and off of the relay.
The rest of the wiring is done at the overhead console. Tap into constant power by using the white wire on the overhead map light harness. Then connect that wire to the relay at 2 points; the power source (30) and also the coil terminal (85). Then connect the output terminal (87) to the wire that you soldered to the extra terminal on the map light plug. Then all you have to do is connect that ground wire that you ran from the dome light to the other side of the relay coil (86). The will engage the coil and make the connection, and make the light turn on whenever the door is opened.
Once I finished it all it worked great except for one thing. You know how the lights gradually dim? It gives a nice affect, but this gradual drop in voltage make the relay make an annoying clicking sound for a second or two as the voltage is dropping. In the picture it shows a big 30 amp relay, which I just had sitting around. But I ended up replacing it with a much smaller 1 amp Reed Relay from Radio Shack. The sound of this relay is real quiet when it is engaging/disengaging. And I muffled the clicking even more by covering the small relay with some tape and foam. Now everything works great. All the lights come on and off when you open the door, but you can still turn the map lights and dome light on and off independently of each other once the doors close. I don't have an updated picture of the Reed Relay, but it is much smaller than the black one in this picture above. The connections on the Reed Relay are real small. I had to solder and heat-shrink them.
Oh, and before I put the dome light back up, I added some reflective aluminum duct tape to make the light brighter. It works great.
Wish I could show pics of how nice the cab looks when both sets of lights come on and off at the same time. Toyota really should have added this feature to the Double Cab.
My solutions, bypass the salesperson. I used the Costco Auto Buying Program (Sam’s Club has one also). Costco has pre-negotiated deals with dealerships on a fixed amount over invoice. For the Tacoma it was $500 over invoice.
The Fleet guy from the dealership called and I told him what I wanted, he said nothing like that available in a 5 state area. Called me a week later and said he had it on order. Three weeks later he called with a build date and delivery week. Then on May 24th he called to say the truck was in. I entered the dealership at 1:30pm and drove out at 3:00pm with my new truck; this included the test drive and inspection (I had my own financing). There was no pressure to buy anything else; in fact there was NO mention of buying anything else. As I was leaving he did say that if I wanted an extended warranty to just come back before the truck gets to 36,000 miles.
The cost was $26,407 for an Access 4X4, V6 Auto, Off-Road package #2 (with tow), 6 disc CD changer, mats and door seal protectors. That is a little more than $2000 under sticker.
As far as I’m concerned, this is the only way to buy a new vehicle, this will be the only way I will be buying vehicles in the future.
I currently drive an 03 Tacoma SR5. I'm 51 with lower back problems at times. However, I don't have complaints about my current ride. I have a deposit on an 05. TRD with the Sport seats, but they bother my back as well as my fiance'. I asked the manager today if I could get the "regular" cloth fabric seats like in my truck now. He said Toyota wouldn't do it for legal reasons in the event of a crash. So it looks like I may have to pass on this beautiful truck, because of lower back discomfort. I have no problem with the 03.
It is also a few db's quieter at highway speeds but I thought that would be better also. HOWEVER, this issue is the seats. It seems to get all the goodies, you have to get sport seats????
Does anyone know if the 06's will be better for seat option/comfort???
Thanks
first of all - for every 1 guy that gets treated nicely at the sales lot - there are 999 that arent. fact. professionals, my foot. You missed the boat on this - I had an excellent Fleet mgr working with me - and even though she KNEW that this order couldnt be filled - you're telling me the other 25 dealers and 100 salespeople didnt - hell no. they wanted your moneyh - they wanted the 500-1000 dollar deposit and they wanted to lock you in to something they couldnt deliver. Yea, professionals
So I legitimately had a purchase to be made - instead of telling me the real fact about how far and long i had to wait . instead of that .
each and everyone said.
well, youll need to leave a deposit..
its about 2-6 wks out
they dont make that truck that way
you cant order it that way
just get this one - who needs 4x4
how about silver - we got some in 4-8 wks.
everything but the truth.
You missed the whole point of my story. Its a good truck - but the waits are nothing unusual - too bad - for many other people out there that were in a bigger hurry - than i was - too bad , those professionals didnt tell them that up front before they took the 500-1000 dollars as a deposit and sat on it for months.
is it the sales person fault - no. should the sales people tell you realistic numbers and dates - yes. Do they? No.
The toyota dealer called me today re: getting some feedback about my purchase. Ill be getting something from Toyota soon - and in both cases - ill be saying-raving even - about how great that sales person I dealt with was.
Why ? Because she told me it would be months - and 2months into it - she said it would be 3 more months - and didnt take a penny out of me for a deposit that was soooo far out - it was un-ethical to do so. Oh yea, 300 over invoice when it was all said and done. I had a professional indeed - and everyone at Toyota will now that .... I was extremely happy.
later
Hilarious.
Trucks are built with and without TRD seats by Toyota every day. The TRD truck is functionally identical inside as the non-TRD version. It's too bad he couldn't have been honest and told you that he just isn't interested in swapping seats. You'd think that someone else buying the cheaper truck might actually like the TRD seats, and I'll bet there's no more than 4 bolts and a multi-pin connector on each seat.
Personally, I like the TRD seats, but people are built differently, so I can understand that not everyone would feel the same.
Can you try a different dealer?
I'm thinking about buying a Black Westin Bull Bar for my 05 DC LB sport, however I wanted to see if someone could give me some advice about some questions that I have before I commit.
What's the installation like... does the air dam need to be cut?
Do you need to remove anything to be able to put it on? (other than the license plate?)
Any suggestions of a good place to shop on line for one... the best price that I've found is $299 (on line w/ no shipping fee)
Kinda' curious what some of you say about yours... I did a "key-word" search in this forum and can't seem to retrieve anything... I do remember reading some posts, but can't find them.
Looking forward to hearing what others say.
-Thistle
$264.95, and that includes shipping.
I've been thinking about getting one, too. I put one on a friends Explorer, and it was super easy. I'm interested in the Tacoma specific mounting questions though....
I'm not sure which model Tacoma you have, but if you have any of the TRD packages for sure you do not need to change the shocks (you actually may not need to for any model...not 100% on that though).
We installed my lift ourselves a few weekends ago and it is actually a pretty straight forward install even for the not so mechanically inclined. The only thing is I recommend if you do it yourself to take the coilovers to a shop to have them compress them. The TRD coils are brutal. They bent the crap out of my compressor and still didn't budge. My lift, alignment and cost to compress coils cost me about $300 total. Nonetheless, if you do go with Revtek, $715 including install is a pretty good price especially if that includes the new shocks! If they do put in new shocks ask them if they are the 5100s. If so, jump all over that deal.
From what I hear they arent the best!
Do you think the dealer would swap them for no charge??
any thoughts.....thanks
I selected the Storm Weave material. This is my 4th cover from them and have never been disappointed.
Does any have these problems on there Tacoma or is just me???
The leaks were in the cowl of the affected trucks, and had nothing to do with glass.
Thanks
Andy
Here's the reason. When the power connection is broken to a relay, the field around the coil collapses and sends a reverse voltage spike down the circuit that it's connected to. In the case of using a large relay, that could be significant enough to damage the circuit, not to mention the additional current needed to operate the relay. In the case of a reed relay it's much less but, not knowing the specifics of that circuit, I would not do it.
The best way would be to use a PNP power transistor, putting the base on the ground side, the emittor on the lamp side and the collector to +12V. Using a 500 to 1K ohm resistor on the base would limit the current on the ECU and no spike would be generated on the circuit. As a side benefit, all lights would dim with the dome light and slowly brighten when the doors are opened. COOL!!!
If you do want to continue to use a relay put a switching diode like a 1N4148 across the relay coil with the band to the + side. This way when the spike occurs the diode will shunt the spike and prevent damage to the circuit.
I am glad I read this because I was not aware of the optional connection on the map lights. I am going to set mine up (this weekend hopefully) with the transistor. When I do I'll send out information on just how to make this work.
GREAT TRUCK!!! GREAT POST!!! KEEP IT COMING GUYS.
BTW, I'm trying my best not to get into the "Word of Advice Re: Long Waits for Your Truck"
:shades:
:shades:
ryan
I got mine on Ebay. Best price I have found so far. I also got my Westin tube steps from the same dealer. I just e-mailed him to see if he had any in stock. I got a great deal on it all.
The owner's manual said it suppose to make a beep sound when use the keyless remote. My Tacoma does not make any beep sounds at all when using the remote to lock or unlock the vehicle.
I took it to the dealer and they also said nothing we can do about it, it comes like that. :confuse:
Do you know if Toyota sells this upgrade?
Anybody know anything about this?
Good luck.
RK
Now I'm glad I didn't waste my $$ on the DRL option.
If you're interested onsemi.com or fairchild.com has parametric searches for their transistors. If you can measure the current and voltages you're working with, they have datasheets w/ diagrams on how to set them up in a circuit.
If you find one, or send me the specs, I can get you some samples and send 'em to you snail mail.