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Comments
Here's a functional diagram that shows how it should be wired. I will fill in the values once I have checked the circuit and have amps requirements. I hope to get it done this weekend so I'll let you know.
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You need to measure:
1. The voltage coming out of the dome light
2. The voltage going into the map light from the original wire
3. And the current running through that original wire to the map light
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We knew however just after about 30 miles that the seats weren't going to do it.
If any of you are looking for an 05, call Shaun Abate. 1-888-HURLBERT. Shaun's phone is 603-778-8134 ext 110. Also www.hurlberttoyota.com
I've got the rough down shift at 32-33 mph. Instead of having it in Drive, try it in 4th, and see if it still shifts rough. Mine does it D, but not 4. I haven't been to the dealer with it yet, but I'm keeping a list so far...Keep us posted on what you find. Thanks!
BTW - the dealer told me that if I decide to do this be sure to turn the switch off if the truck is going to be parked for a week or more (i.e., airport parking, etc.) as it might run the battery down.
Just an idea.
Ken
Hopefully the the jerkiness shifting does not get any worst.
Keep us updated if you find anything new on the tranny world.
thanks!
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thanks,
Ron
If you do that it's about 1/2" approx. of overhang.
Freon is colorless. I'd be inclined to think that it is "micro condensation".
It's possible that your evaporator was too cold and may even be freezing up. A switch should be regulating the cycling of the compressor to prevent that. On automotive a/c, it's usually a combination of things that control it, one being the low pressure switch.
What did you observe that indicated it was leaking Freon?
I got them from the dealer for $146 plus tax. No charge for next day shipping.
Does the truck you're proposing to buy have side airbags?
If so, that could be the issue, as the bags are in the seats. I forgot all about them, because side bags weren't available on my Access Cab. No side bags? I still think you're getting your chain yanked. :confuse:
Thanks for the heads up.
Thanks in advance.
First, here’s the correct diagram.
I found that a 680 Ohm resistor works just right for this. The light dims in unison with the dome light and is just slightly less bright than normal once full brightness is achieved. A 333 ohm resistor will give you full brightness. I like the fact that the map light is not so bright when the door is opened so I left the 680 ohm resistor in place. You could go to a 1K ohm and have it a little dimmer for kind of a mood light. No matter which one you choose you can always get full brightness by depressing the map light switch.
The current draw on the circuit is about .65 amps. This equates to about 8.08 watts. The 2N6667 can handle 10 amps so it is very capable of handling this load. I added a heat sink but I always go overboard when I do something like this. It’s really not needed. CAUTION!!! This package type (TO-220) has the collector tied to the mounting tab so when the light is on there is +12vdc on the tab. You cannot mount this directly to the body else you will have a direct short. I mounted mine to the plastic assembly on the compass using hot melt so I have no problem with this. Also, I soldered the base connection directly to terminal 3 as the plug will still fit if you use a small enough wire. All mine was done with 18ga solid.
One other note. There is NO current drain when the door is closed so you do not have to worry about draining the battery if you do not use your truck for a long time.
Thanks to pb2themax and boone88rr for finding this aux terminal and for the alternatives they came up with on this circuit. It’s very COOL!!!
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Has anybody else had this problem? Can I retrofit seats from the Highlander (which my wife owns) which don't cause any such problems? Her driver's seat has a dozen or so electrical controls and is much more substantial than the (in my opinion) flimsy seats that come with the new Tacoma.
Again, I love everything else about this truck, but the seats are killing me. Help!