You'll most likely be fine. Did it steer like crap?
With a locked rear diff, the inner rear wheel is not able to turn at a slower speed than the outer. This fights the turning ability of the front tires. Without good traction, the locked rear end would actually push you straight ahead, sliding the front tires sideways. Think "farm tractor". The most damage, if any did occur, would probably occur a slow speed, TIGHT turns, such as those made while parking.
Someone posted here in the past that you need to be in 4WD low to lock the diff.
#1.) This is certainly not the case in my truck. My diff lock most certainly works in 2WD and 4WD high. I tried it in the mud.
#2.) The locking diff is also available (included?) on the Prerunner, which happens to be a 2WD truck with a 4WD stance. Getting a Prerunner into 4WD low OR high is quite difficult. :confuse:
Again, I think you'll be fine, but you've got a long warranty period ahead of you, in the reomte case something goes wrong.
Our old JohnDeere Model 40 (nearly antique) tractor had rear differential. In fact, tight turns were augmented by applying only one of the two brake pedals (one for each rear wheel). The brakes could also be used as a manual "limited slip" by applying the brake to the wheel that was slipping.
My PreRunner does not have locking rear diff nor limited slip. (I wouldn't buy one. I offroad so seldom and with reasonable care and technique, have no need for limited slip or locking rear diff., even when launching/recovering my sailboat. Not to say they don't have their applications, but my guess is that a large percentage sold serve no real purpose other than to suck cash out of the owners' pockets in terms of higher initial purchase, maintenance and lower fuel economy.)
I have the A.R.E. LS II hard cover......http://www.4are.com/product/lsii/..you can view the cover on any truck( 2 pics of the ' 05 Taco) Also had one on my ' 04 Taco...Love it!! kinda like a trunk.. The bed rail system still works fine. The mounts for the cover( 2 ea. side) are positioned close to front and rear of the bed, so only a small area cannot have a tie-down.
And yes, as stated, it cannot be removed easily. Kinda nice when someone wants a refrigerator moved!! I will post pics maybe this weekend.
Hey All, Installed the bull bar last night... it was easy and didn't require the removal of the tow hook... but already knew that from what I learned on this forum (thanks for the advice from those who replied.)
I'd suggest having a friend hold the bar while you're bolting the unit down... FYI: It seems that the license plate relocation kit isn't necessary unless you intend to put lights on the bar... The plate is visible enough for me!
It took about an hour to complete. -If anyone read the crash test info. compiled in Australia about air bag deployment, I think that I'll be ok should I hit any "Roo's!"
Thank you very much for the very detailed description of getting the door panels off. You certainly know your stuff. My truck is an access cab. Are the rear door panels (suicide) similar to take off?
Everyone,
I am interested in upgrading the speakers in my truck with the following stipulations:
1. best speakers - money no object (well - ok - limited to $750 for the four) 2. no need for a sub as the bass isn't too bad stock, just needs a clearer more defined sound (bass & treble sides) than what I have. 3. no extra amp.
Here's a post from Custom Tacos that should help with removing the access cab doors:
The back access cab doors are a little harder to remove, but still pretty easy. The back door uses torx screws instead of phillips like the front. There is one located on the door handle panel, and one in the door grab under the window. Remove these two screws then remove the door handle panel and the door grab trim. Remove the plastic cover for the bottom of the seatbelt then unscrew the seat belt bolt(14mm iirc)
There's a plastic anchor at the top of the door that will also have to be removed.
Once all that is done, pull on the bottom of the panel or use a panel remover screwdriver. Start from the bottom and go up.
You should be able to pull the panel off the door once all the clips are released.
To address the speaker question. If you don't want to put an external amp in your truck there is no sense in spending alot of money on top of the line speakers because you'll be lucky to get half of their potential out of them. What sets good speakers apart from great speakers is the power handling.
I've always liked Infinity's stuff. JL audio is good, but again it's a little pricey to be running 30-35 Watts on them (or less, I don't know what the stock stereo is capable of).
I bought a pair of Elemental Designs 6.5" mid-bass subs for the access cab doors and a pair of eD comps for the front. But I also plan on using a 400 Watt amp. I didn't want anything overpowering just something that sounded good for reasonable money (after wiring, speakers, and amp approx. $650) and I didn't want to take up any of my much needed space in the truck (aka sub enclosure)
To All- Just to let every one know about JBA's headers and CAT back exhaust system for the 2005 4.0 rips! There was a significant gain in power, and the sound. I think it sounds like a V8 running at about 4 to 5 grand! The install was a little difficult, but pays off!
Just finish my whole setup,I have a 4x4 DC Indigo,AVIC N-2 installed powered by 5x7 Component Fusion speakers in the front,6.5 coaxial Fusion speakers in the rear,The sub i'm using is 8 inch Soundstream Exact.Amplification wise I used 2 amps,Soundstream Van Gogh 4 Channel,another Van Gogh for the sub.It sounded crisp and loud.I upgraded my system to by using the Pioneer multi processor 5.1 surround,DEQ-P8000,AXM-P8000,plugged my Ipod externally to the processor.My kids are very happy in the back with the 6.5 tv screen in the back.I'm totally proud of my system,navigation is so COOL!!!
Been watching their website but no dyno numbers yet. How hard was the header install? I understand you need to do some welding. Which ones did you get? Was it a basic DIY or should it be left to a pro?
My old 2003 Tacoma did not have any special differential (they don't ship them to Texas) and it slipped on wet road all the time. It couldn't get up on a steep turning hill when the road is slick with a rain. I traded it in for a 2005 and made sure I get the limited slip differential.
It was Superstition Toyota in Mesa AZ. They are a RevTek distributor. I have the TRD Off Road pkg# 2, 4X4 and they said the installed price was $715. You can get the Lift Kit for a little over $300 if you do it yourself. I am waiting to save up money for new rims and tires before getting the lift.
volley said..." Rumor is there is a TSB or some other bulletin coming out for this problem."
Talked to the dealer that's installing my TRD muffler on Wed. He said they have reported this leaf spring issue to Toyota several times. He believes the TSB should be out soon. Also discussed several other issues I have( squeaky clutch, cabin filter, locking gas cap) with my truck.
Hopefully, if we all keep on these dealers about our problems, the sooner Toyota will get these things fixed. Strength in #'s you know!!
One of my friends that owns a shop for high performance trucks says that 16's(rims) are best for the new 05' tacomas. I was thinking of just doing the 3" lift with 16's. I can't decide what size i'm going on tires, but I definately want to put some boggers on there. Swamper sx'z are solid tires and they last longer (cheaper too). Boggers are the sweetest I think. Thornbirds have made me slide every where on wet roads. I've had TSL Radial swampers, but have experienced defects on them after only 3 months. Can you tell i'm an interco super swamper tire fan? What kind of rims and tires were you looking for?
I bought an '05 Taco double cab 4X4 with a lot a bells and whistles. I ordered in March and that one hasn't arrived at the dealership yet but one arrived that the perspective owner was not able to take possession of so I got it. One word describes this truck SWEET! Getting 22.5MPG (Canadian) and once the engine reaches 3500RPM it goes like scat. I put a K&N drop in filter in it. I does not require an aftermarket cold air intake system as it already has one that is satisfactory. Got over 3500 miles on it and realy like it a lot.
Not really sure what type of rims and tires I am looking for. I am new to this 4X4 stuff (truck was 3 months old yesterday) so I have been doing a lot of research on the net and I am getting a lot of good advice and ideas from this forum. A big THANK YOU to all of you.
My initial thought on tires and rims are 16X8 rims, unless that is what I have (remember, I’m a newbie) and 285/75 R16 for the tires (that about a 33” tire, right?). Don’t want to go too extreme as this truck is my daily driver, actually, my only drive.
Volley has me rethinking the lift. It seems add-a-leaf is the way to go. I have read where blocks can break, can cause axle warp and other bad things and Toy Tek lifts are cheaper than the RetTek I was thinking about and they have a 2 ½ in. lift which I was thinking might be better for a daily driver. Still doing research.
Do you think the stock tires would look OK with a 2 ½ - 3” lift? I have TRD Off-Road pkg#2 with the upgraded rims with 265/70 tires.
No matter what I decide, it will probably be after X-mas before doing the lift and tires. Skid plates and Bull Bar are coming soon. On that I am thinking Toyota front skid plate with the Westin Bull Bar w/skid plate. It seems the Westin skid plate mostly protects the bumper, which is a good thing, and the Toyota skid plate protects more of the engine.
I am also trying to get up the nerve to try the bed light idea form pb2themax, sometimes (most of the time) my projects don’t go as planned. Will probably wait till the truck is a little less new and have a friend help.
Keep the advice and ideas coming. On another note: I talked my neighbor into getting a new Taco, she loves it too.
hey all, I was thinking about upgrading the stock tires to goodyear or michelins, and keep the stock rims or get 18 inch chromes, i priced with the rims and tires around $1500, or just upgrading the tires from the dunlops to good tires would be $700, would like to get some suggestions, thanks
Hi blutac I live in Canada as well (Ontario) and found once I reached 7000km (4140miles) the MPG noticably improved. I now have over 23500km (14600miles) and recently got 27.4MPG Canadian. Did you notice much performance difference from changing to the K+N filer ?
I plan on upgrading to Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo's, everybody that has them raves about them. I'd like to do it before winter but I'm not sure I'm gonna have the money. I want to add a 2.5" ToyTec lift and 16" rims with the 285/75RR16 Bridgestones all at the same time. The lift is $200, the tires are $160 apiece and I haven't chosen wheels yet but they could be somewhere around another $800. I was thinking Ivan Stewart 16" TRD's. So yeah about $1500 to spend between now and christmas may not be the best idea. But these Dunlops suck.
medium al- Yes you do need to do some welding and cutting. The stock manifolds come attached as one piece to the cat. The instructions say to cut just aft of the weld, leaving it with the manifold. However, I found that cutting in there was would leave you with a 1 7/8" inlet. The header outlet measures 2 1/4". So what I did (and also called JBA about it) is cut 1/4" to 3/8" up the cat to give me the 2 1/4" inlet at the cat. With me so far? Now this gave me a gap of about 3/8" to 1/2" with the header installed and the cat installed at their respective positions. I then loosely attached the cat to the mount bracket and flange and then took a jack and jacked the pipes up until they met. I then put on 3 or 4 tack welds to hold them together with a little 110 welder. Then I unbolted the header and cat and took it to an exhaust shop (because my welding is not perfect, and I wanted to make sure I would have no leaks.). After that I just bolted on the header. I had about a 1/2" gap between the cat and the mounting bracket where I sandwiched a large nut between the 2 (the original bolt was long enough). Doing it this way kind of twicked the exhaust system a little, but I think there will be no harm done. I told a guy for JBA that they should add about another 1/2" of pipe to the outlet of the header and cut the cat where I said before. Will see what they do, the guy on the phone said that that was a good idea and would mention something to the engineers. If this sounds like something you can do then well go at it. I thought about having it done professionally, but I wanted to make sure it was done the way I wanted. herkey
With what ever wheel you decide to go with, be sure the backspaceing on it is about 4 1/2". If not those 285/75r16's will rub on your upper a-arm. Anything over that and you will be cutting it close. Those are the same size tires I'm running in Goodyear's MTR with a Revtek 3" lift (until Total Chaos comes out with their long travel IFS kit this Fall).
The best rim and tire combo is the 285/75r16 with a 16x8 rim with 4 1/2" of backspacing to clear your suspension, with the 3" lift. The Goodyear MTR's are a real aggressive looking tire but are made like a radial, so they look cool, last longer on pavement, and are more quite than the soft compound mudder tires.
Hi there pb2themax....I have a Taco with the bed gate like yours,Problem is, anybody can steal it by simply loosening the hand knobs and removing it from the bed. If Toyota had made the hand knobs lockable the problem would not exist....but they didnt. Any ideas as to how to secure the gate? thanks and good luck.
Seriously looking at the Gibson Cat-Back exhaust for my DC LB Sport, its two and a half inch stainless steel with a polished three inch single outlet, available in Canada for $525. It's supposed to be a one to two hour bolt on job with no modifications to existing hangers, etc. For sure not the horsepower gain of headers, but an easy install and a throaty/rumbling sound. Has anyone had any experience with this exhaust? :confuse:
Hey guys, I'm selling my recently purchased 05 tacoma for an M3 i've been wanting has come up for sale. Anyways, wondering what a trade in amount would be on my truck. It's an 05 Tacoma Double Cab, with 20" Foose Rims, custom navigation stereo, TRD Off road package, SR5, 4x2 with 5,000 Miles.
The K&N dropin seemed to get me a little better fuel economy but I didn't notice any big power boost. You say you're getting almost 27MPG. Do you have the V6? If so, I have to get some more mileage on to start seeing the increase. Anyway, it sure is a nice ride.
I have the Toytec lift on my truck and love it. Installed it myself with the help of one of my friend's dad. I had never done anything like it before so if I can do it...anyone can! :-) If spending the $$ is an issue right now. One thing you can consider is buying and installing the lift and just running the stock tires/wheels until after Christmas and maybe even get some Christmas $$. I ran the lift with stock for about a month or so and the truck really doesn't look bad that way at all. Looks darn good actually. Looks totally awesome after the wheels/tires though.
I know you want the Bridgestone Revos and those are great tires. I went with the Nitto Grappler ATs. They have great ratings, not noisey, haven't tried them in rain/snow yet but they are supposed to be great. I know several people who have them and love them. Not to mention it is a really sweet looking tire. And the price can't be beat at anywhere from $109 - $120 each. By the way, I also have 16x8 MB Motoring wheels, not sure what the backspacing is off hand. Great combo and I absolutely love the way my truck looks now. :shades:
Well the problem is that I heard these Dunlops suck in the snow. I really want to upgrade the tires before the end of November. To get the setup that I want I would need to do the lift before hand, no matter what. Maybe I'll sell some stocks and splurge.
The Toytec was an easy install? Which kit did you get, the 3" or 2.5", Basic or Pro Basic? Did you need to rent the spring compressor? How long did it take with a little help? And what size tires did you put on? 285's? No rubbing?
Sorry, I have lots of questions. Thanks for the reply, I'll check out those Grapplers.
For the main power wire to the relays I ran a 10 guage wire from the power terminal in the top left of the under-hood fuse box. That terminal is coming off of a large power wire right off of the battery.
If you are looking for an ignition controled power source to connect to a relay, there is a empty spot in the middle of the fuse block under the dash. This is a good place to tap in for your relay turn-on wire. This way the lights will turn off automatically when you turn the ignition off.
I have a security system on my truck that will page me if anybody is messing with my truck. But if you don't have a security system, you could always drill down through the top and bottom "lips" of the rail and then put a bolt through the holes. Tighten it down with a lock washer and nut. This would act like a "stopper" at the end of the rail, and then they wouldn't be able to slide the brackets off of the rail. That gate is pretty hard to remove anyway. It's kind of a two person job.
To prevent the rubbing, your wheels need more backspacing. But since you have already bought the wheels, just buy spacers to put behind the wheels. Some auto parts stores and wheel stores carry 'em.
Where did you buy the K+N filter ? I imagine Canadian Tire would be the cheapest place. My best ever was 27.4 MPG Canadian. I drove from Edmunston, New Brunswick to Renfrew, Ontario before I filled up. I was able to get 860km on a tank of fuel. I have the Double Cab V6 4x4 SR5
How did you get the JBA headers? I went to their website and they do not list headers for the 2005 Tacoma. Saw only headers for the Tundra 4.7 liter engine.
Best thing to do is call JBA at their 1-800 # on the website or look up the closest dealer at their website (pretty sure they have that function). The part # for the 4.0L header is 2035s for the stainless steel, in case you can not find it. But if you go to their home page in the upper right hand corner there should be a picture of Camberg's Taco, click on it and it should bring it up.
The Tacoma's exhaust system is super easy for a cat back install. The flange/ pipe before the muffler has 14mm bolts holding it. The rest of the system is held up by hangers (3 of them to be exact). And then the whole system comes out in one piece. I did mine in like 45 min.
Thanks for the info. I think I'll wait on this until they finalize the product. I'd also like to see some dyno numbers. Have you looked into the K&N cold air intake? It is out now. The other thing I was thinking was that it might be wise to see if someone does a remap of the engine computer eventually. Once you get into major airflow changes things are not going to be optimal fuel-wise. Not sure what the margins are on these engines. Would hate to run lean on that nice 4.0L six. Other cars I've modded required a remap, even with just an airbox and muffler (no headers).
i bought 17" goodyear forteras with rims, from discount tires for $1200, having them put on next week, my taco will look nice with the better rims than stock, and get rid of the cruddy dunlops.
hi, i seem to have steering problems too. if i hit a bump at certain times it feels like the front wheels are going to come off and i get steering wheel vibrations over 67 mph. is there a way i can get a copy of those Posts you have. thanks jjt1
Comments
With a locked rear diff, the inner rear wheel is not able to turn at a slower speed than the outer. This fights the turning ability of the front tires. Without good traction, the locked rear end would actually push you straight ahead, sliding the front tires sideways. Think "farm tractor". The most damage, if any did occur, would probably occur a slow speed, TIGHT turns, such as those made while parking.
Someone posted here in the past that you need to be in 4WD low to lock the diff.
#1.) This is certainly not the case in my truck. My diff lock most certainly works in 2WD and 4WD high. I tried it in the mud.
#2.) The locking diff is also available (included?) on the Prerunner, which happens to be a 2WD truck with a 4WD stance. Getting a Prerunner into 4WD low OR high is quite difficult. :confuse:
Again, I think you'll be fine, but you've got a long warranty period ahead of you, in the reomte case something goes wrong.
Our old JohnDeere Model 40 (nearly antique) tractor had rear differential.
In fact, tight turns were augmented by applying only one of the two brake pedals (one for each rear wheel). The brakes could also be used as a manual "limited slip" by applying the brake to the wheel that was slipping.
My PreRunner does not have locking rear diff nor limited slip. (I wouldn't buy one. I offroad so seldom and with reasonable care and technique, have no need for limited slip or locking rear diff., even when launching/recovering my sailboat. Not to say they don't have their applications, but my guess is that a large percentage sold serve no real purpose other than to suck cash out of the owners' pockets in terms of higher initial purchase, maintenance and lower fuel economy.)
Also had one on my ' 04 Taco...Love it!! kinda like a trunk.. The bed rail system still works fine. The mounts for the cover( 2 ea. side) are positioned close to front and rear of the bed, so only a small area cannot have a tie-down.
And yes, as stated, it cannot be removed easily. Kinda nice when someone wants a refrigerator moved!! I will post pics maybe this weekend.
Installed the bull bar last night... it was easy and didn't require the removal of the tow hook... but already knew that from what I learned on this forum (thanks for the advice from those who replied.)
I'd suggest having a friend hold the bar while you're bolting the unit down...
FYI: It seems that the license plate relocation kit isn't necessary unless you intend to put lights on the bar... The plate is visible enough for me!
It took about an hour to complete.
-If anyone read the crash test info. compiled in Australia about air bag deployment, I think that I'll be ok should I hit any "Roo's!"
Good Day, Mates!
-Thistle
Thank you very much for the very detailed description of getting the door panels off. You certainly know your stuff. My truck is an access cab. Are the rear door panels (suicide) similar to take off?
Everyone,
I am interested in upgrading the speakers in my truck with the following stipulations:
1. best speakers - money no object (well - ok - limited to $750 for the four)
2. no need for a sub as the bass isn't too bad stock, just needs a clearer more defined sound (bass & treble sides) than what I have.
3. no extra amp.
Any suggestions for speaker replacements.
The back access cab doors are a little harder to remove, but still pretty easy. The back door uses torx screws instead of phillips like the front.
There is one located on the door handle panel, and one in the door grab under the window. Remove these two screws then remove the door handle panel and the door grab trim. Remove the plastic cover for the bottom of the seatbelt then unscrew the seat belt bolt(14mm iirc)
There's a plastic anchor at the top of the door that will also have to be removed.
Once all that is done, pull on the bottom of the panel or use a panel remover screwdriver. Start from the bottom and go up.
You should be able to pull the panel off the door once all the clips are released.
I've always liked Infinity's stuff. JL audio is good, but again it's a little pricey to be running 30-35 Watts on them (or less, I don't know what the stock stereo is capable of).
I bought a pair of Elemental Designs 6.5" mid-bass subs for the access cab doors and a pair of eD comps for the front. But I also plan on using a 400 Watt amp. I didn't want anything overpowering just something that sounded good for reasonable money (after wiring, speakers, and amp approx. $650) and I didn't want to take up any of my much needed space in the truck (aka sub enclosure)
Just to let every one know about JBA's headers and CAT back exhaust system for the 2005 4.0 rips! There was a significant gain in power, and the sound. I think it sounds like a V8 running at about 4 to 5 grand! The install was a little difficult, but pays off!
Al
Talked to the dealer that's installing my TRD muffler on Wed. He said they have reported this leaf spring issue to Toyota several times. He believes the TSB should be out soon. Also discussed several other issues I have( squeaky clutch, cabin filter, locking gas cap) with my truck.
Hopefully, if we all keep on these dealers about our problems, the sooner Toyota will get these things fixed. Strength in #'s you know!!
My initial thought on tires and rims are 16X8 rims, unless that is what I have (remember, I’m a newbie) and 285/75 R16 for the tires (that about a 33” tire, right?). Don’t want to go too extreme as this truck is my daily driver, actually, my only drive.
Volley has me rethinking the lift. It seems add-a-leaf is the way to go. I have read where blocks can break, can cause axle warp and other bad things and Toy Tek lifts are cheaper than the RetTek I was thinking about and they have a 2 ½ in. lift which I was thinking might be better for a daily driver. Still doing research.
Do you think the stock tires would look OK with a 2 ½ - 3” lift? I have TRD Off-Road pkg#2 with the upgraded rims with 265/70 tires.
No matter what I decide, it will probably be after X-mas before doing the lift and tires. Skid plates and Bull Bar are coming soon. On that I am thinking Toyota front skid plate with the Westin Bull Bar w/skid plate. It seems the Westin skid plate mostly protects the bumper, which is a good thing, and the Toyota skid plate protects more of the engine.
I am also trying to get up the nerve to try the bed light idea form pb2themax, sometimes (most of the time) my projects don’t go as planned. Will probably wait till the truck is a little less new and have a friend help.
Keep the advice and ideas coming. On another note: I talked my neighbor into getting a new Taco, she loves it too.
Lee
I live in Canada as well (Ontario) and found once I reached 7000km (4140miles) the MPG noticably improved. I now have over 23500km (14600miles) and recently got 27.4MPG Canadian. Did you notice much performance difference from changing to the K+N filer ?
Tire Rack - Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo
Yes you do need to do some welding and cutting. The stock manifolds come attached as one piece to the cat. The instructions say to cut just aft of the weld, leaving it with the manifold. However, I found that cutting in there was would leave you with a 1 7/8" inlet. The header outlet measures 2 1/4". So what I did (and also called JBA about it) is cut 1/4" to 3/8" up the cat to give me the 2 1/4" inlet at the cat. With me so far? Now this gave me a gap of about 3/8" to 1/2" with the header installed and the cat installed at their respective positions. I then loosely attached the cat to the mount bracket and flange and then took a jack and jacked the pipes up until they met. I then put on 3 or 4 tack welds to hold them together with a little 110 welder. Then I unbolted the header and cat and took it to an exhaust shop (because my welding is not perfect, and I wanted to make sure I would have no leaks.). After that I just bolted on the header. I had about a 1/2" gap between the cat and the mounting bracket where I sandwiched a large nut between the 2 (the original bolt was long enough). Doing it this way kind of twicked the exhaust system a little, but I think there will be no harm done. I told a guy for JBA that they should add about another 1/2" of pipe to the outlet of the header and cut the cat where I said before. Will see what they do, the guy on the phone said that that was a good idea and would mention something to the engineers. If this sounds like something you can do then well go at it. I thought about having it done professionally, but I wanted to make sure it was done the way I wanted.
herkey
You can see pictures at:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2044013/1
Thanks,
I know you want the Bridgestone Revos and those are great tires. I went with the Nitto Grappler ATs. They have great ratings, not noisey, haven't tried them in rain/snow yet but they are supposed to be great. I know several people who have them and love them. Not to mention it is a really sweet looking tire. And the price can't be beat at anywhere from $109 - $120 each. By the way, I also have 16x8 MB Motoring wheels, not sure what the backspacing is off hand. Great combo and I absolutely love the way my truck looks now. :shades:
The Toytec was an easy install? Which kit did you get, the 3" or 2.5", Basic or Pro Basic? Did you need to rent the spring compressor? How long did it take with a little help? And what size tires did you put on? 285's? No rubbing?
Sorry, I have lots of questions. Thanks for the reply, I'll check out those Grapplers.
If you are looking for an ignition controled power source to connect to a relay, there is a empty spot in the middle of the fuse block under the dash. This is a good place to tap in for your relay turn-on wire. This way the lights will turn off automatically when you turn the ignition off.
That's about all I can think of. Hope that helps.
's and was very suprised how bad they rubbed, even with the mudflaps off. I opted for the 265 in the BFG and like the fit much better. Hope this helps.
tnt67
[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/4429/0821050505gz.jpg[/I- MG][/URL]
tnt67
Al