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Comments
With a locked rear diff, the inner rear wheel is not able to turn at a slower speed than the outer. This fights the turning ability of the front tires. Without good traction, the locked rear end would actually push you straight ahead, sliding the front tires sideways. Think "farm tractor". The most damage, if any did occur, would probably occur a slow speed, TIGHT turns, such as those made while parking.
Someone posted here in the past that you need to be in 4WD low to lock the diff.
#1.) This is certainly not the case in my truck. My diff lock most certainly works in 2WD and 4WD high. I tried it in the mud.
#2.) The locking diff is also available (included?) on the Prerunner, which happens to be a 2WD truck with a 4WD stance. Getting a Prerunner into 4WD low OR high is quite difficult. :confuse:
Again, I think you'll be fine, but you've got a long warranty period ahead of you, in the reomte case something goes wrong.
Our old JohnDeere Model 40 (nearly antique) tractor had rear differential.
In fact, tight turns were augmented by applying only one of the two brake pedals (one for each rear wheel). The brakes could also be used as a manual "limited slip" by applying the brake to the wheel that was slipping.
My PreRunner does not have locking rear diff nor limited slip. (I wouldn't buy one. I offroad so seldom and with reasonable care and technique, have no need for limited slip or locking rear diff., even when launching/recovering my sailboat. Not to say they don't have their applications, but my guess is that a large percentage sold serve no real purpose other than to suck cash out of the owners' pockets in terms of higher initial purchase, maintenance and lower fuel economy.)
Also had one on my ' 04 Taco...Love it!! kinda like a trunk.. The bed rail system still works fine. The mounts for the cover( 2 ea. side) are positioned close to front and rear of the bed, so only a small area cannot have a tie-down.
And yes, as stated, it cannot be removed easily. Kinda nice when someone wants a refrigerator moved!! I will post pics maybe this weekend.
Installed the bull bar last night... it was easy and didn't require the removal of the tow hook... but already knew that from what I learned on this forum (thanks for the advice from those who replied.)
I'd suggest having a friend hold the bar while you're bolting the unit down...
FYI: It seems that the license plate relocation kit isn't necessary unless you intend to put lights on the bar... The plate is visible enough for me!
It took about an hour to complete.
-If anyone read the crash test info. compiled in Australia about air bag deployment, I think that I'll be ok should I hit any "Roo's!"
Good Day, Mates!
-Thistle
Thank you very much for the very detailed description of getting the door panels off. You certainly know your stuff. My truck is an access cab. Are the rear door panels (suicide) similar to take off?
Everyone,
I am interested in upgrading the speakers in my truck with the following stipulations:
1. best speakers - money no object (well - ok - limited to $750 for the four)
2. no need for a sub as the bass isn't too bad stock, just needs a clearer more defined sound (bass & treble sides) than what I have.
3. no extra amp.
Any suggestions for speaker replacements.
The back access cab doors are a little harder to remove, but still pretty easy. The back door uses torx screws instead of phillips like the front.
There is one located on the door handle panel, and one in the door grab under the window. Remove these two screws then remove the door handle panel and the door grab trim. Remove the plastic cover for the bottom of the seatbelt then unscrew the seat belt bolt(14mm iirc)
There's a plastic anchor at the top of the door that will also have to be removed.
Once all that is done, pull on the bottom of the panel or use a panel remover screwdriver. Start from the bottom and go up.
You should be able to pull the panel off the door once all the clips are released.
I've always liked Infinity's stuff. JL audio is good, but again it's a little pricey to be running 30-35 Watts on them (or less, I don't know what the stock stereo is capable of).
I bought a pair of Elemental Designs 6.5" mid-bass subs for the access cab doors and a pair of eD comps for the front. But I also plan on using a 400 Watt amp. I didn't want anything overpowering just something that sounded good for reasonable money (after wiring, speakers, and amp approx. $650) and I didn't want to take up any of my much needed space in the truck (aka sub enclosure)
Just to let every one know about JBA's headers and CAT back exhaust system for the 2005 4.0 rips! There was a significant gain in power, and the sound. I think it sounds like a V8 running at about 4 to 5 grand! The install was a little difficult, but pays off!
Al
Talked to the dealer that's installing my TRD muffler on Wed. He said they have reported this leaf spring issue to Toyota several times. He believes the TSB should be out soon. Also discussed several other issues I have( squeaky clutch, cabin filter, locking gas cap) with my truck.
Hopefully, if we all keep on these dealers about our problems, the sooner Toyota will get these things fixed. Strength in #'s you know!!
My initial thought on tires and rims are 16X8 rims, unless that is what I have (remember, I’m a newbie) and 285/75 R16 for the tires (that about a 33” tire, right?). Don’t want to go too extreme as this truck is my daily driver, actually, my only drive.
Volley has me rethinking the lift. It seems add-a-leaf is the way to go. I have read where blocks can break, can cause axle warp and other bad things and Toy Tek lifts are cheaper than the RetTek I was thinking about and they have a 2 ½ in. lift which I was thinking might be better for a daily driver. Still doing research.
Do you think the stock tires would look OK with a 2 ½ - 3” lift? I have TRD Off-Road pkg#2 with the upgraded rims with 265/70 tires.
No matter what I decide, it will probably be after X-mas before doing the lift and tires. Skid plates and Bull Bar are coming soon. On that I am thinking Toyota front skid plate with the Westin Bull Bar w/skid plate. It seems the Westin skid plate mostly protects the bumper, which is a good thing, and the Toyota skid plate protects more of the engine.
I am also trying to get up the nerve to try the bed light idea form pb2themax, sometimes (most of the time) my projects don’t go as planned. Will probably wait till the truck is a little less new and have a friend help.
Keep the advice and ideas coming. On another note: I talked my neighbor into getting a new Taco, she loves it too.
Lee
I live in Canada as well (Ontario) and found once I reached 7000km (4140miles) the MPG noticably improved. I now have over 23500km (14600miles) and recently got 27.4MPG Canadian. Did you notice much performance difference from changing to the K+N filer ?
Tire Rack - Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo
Yes you do need to do some welding and cutting. The stock manifolds come attached as one piece to the cat. The instructions say to cut just aft of the weld, leaving it with the manifold. However, I found that cutting in there was would leave you with a 1 7/8" inlet. The header outlet measures 2 1/4". So what I did (and also called JBA about it) is cut 1/4" to 3/8" up the cat to give me the 2 1/4" inlet at the cat. With me so far? Now this gave me a gap of about 3/8" to 1/2" with the header installed and the cat installed at their respective positions. I then loosely attached the cat to the mount bracket and flange and then took a jack and jacked the pipes up until they met. I then put on 3 or 4 tack welds to hold them together with a little 110 welder. Then I unbolted the header and cat and took it to an exhaust shop (because my welding is not perfect, and I wanted to make sure I would have no leaks.). After that I just bolted on the header. I had about a 1/2" gap between the cat and the mounting bracket where I sandwiched a large nut between the 2 (the original bolt was long enough). Doing it this way kind of twicked the exhaust system a little, but I think there will be no harm done. I told a guy for JBA that they should add about another 1/2" of pipe to the outlet of the header and cut the cat where I said before. Will see what they do, the guy on the phone said that that was a good idea and would mention something to the engineers. If this sounds like something you can do then well go at it. I thought about having it done professionally, but I wanted to make sure it was done the way I wanted.
herkey
You can see pictures at:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2044013/1
Thanks,
I know you want the Bridgestone Revos and those are great tires. I went with the Nitto Grappler ATs. They have great ratings, not noisey, haven't tried them in rain/snow yet but they are supposed to be great. I know several people who have them and love them. Not to mention it is a really sweet looking tire. And the price can't be beat at anywhere from $109 - $120 each. By the way, I also have 16x8 MB Motoring wheels, not sure what the backspacing is off hand. Great combo and I absolutely love the way my truck looks now. :shades:
The Toytec was an easy install? Which kit did you get, the 3" or 2.5", Basic or Pro Basic? Did you need to rent the spring compressor? How long did it take with a little help? And what size tires did you put on? 285's? No rubbing?
Sorry, I have lots of questions. Thanks for the reply, I'll check out those Grapplers.
If you are looking for an ignition controled power source to connect to a relay, there is a empty spot in the middle of the fuse block under the dash. This is a good place to tap in for your relay turn-on wire. This way the lights will turn off automatically when you turn the ignition off.
That's about all I can think of. Hope that helps.
's and was very suprised how bad they rubbed, even with the mudflaps off. I opted for the 265 in the BFG and like the fit much better. Hope this helps.
tnt67
[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/4429/0821050505gz.jpg[/I- MG][/URL]
tnt67
Al