Toyota Tacoma 2005+

19798100102103149

Comments

  • jabe2jabe2 Member Posts: 4
    Dealership mech. said the drier is built into the condenssor like they told kevlar119. Anyway, they changed my compressor today, they claim it was working but, as soon as I got into the truck the A/C switch light started blinking and it was not blowing cold air only hot air. I also told them that whenever you open up the system you should change the drier/condensor (as it is suppose to be combined) and they didn't change it. They took the truck back inside and now they say it's a relay on the compressor shorting out. They're going to order another relay, don't know how long that will take. I told the serv. rep. that there is a electronic board called the amplifier under the dash that controls the electronics for the A/C and they should check that out and the wiring to see why it's shorting out the relay. Just changing the relay with out investigating whats causing the short will not fix the problem, the problem is a short in the circuit thats causing the relay to blow. :mad:
  • jabe2jabe2 Member Posts: 4
    Hi kevlar119.
    thanks for the info, same answer I got from my dealership. Can you post the Toyota email address you wrote to. Is this the factory email address or just your dealership address?
  • lonwlonw Member Posts: 29
    In my '05 Taco access cab, at the bottom back of the center console next to the floor, below the 2 cup holders, there's what appears to be a slotted outlet (3 slots), like a vent outlet to the back seat area, that doesn't pass any air when either the AC or heater is operating.

    Can anyone tell me what it is?
  • halfmuchhalfmuch Member Posts: 2
    i too have the bad pull to the left and the alignment shop said there was not much they could do.
    what did you end up doing?
  • kevlar119kevlar119 Member Posts: 11
    It was from mytoyota.com. You can submit problems/complaints directly to them. I found this site from the toyota.com site - I believe it was under "about" section. If you trouble, let me know and I'll get a link (can't do it from PDA - no multiple screens). Good luck!
  • trd4x4boytrd4x4boy Member Posts: 22
    there is a fan under the console...it looks like a cooling fan on a computer...it doesn't put out too much air...maybe just a little circulation...
    matt
  • paratrooper82paratrooper82 Member Posts: 41
    I believe its supposed to be for a foot heater for the rear passengers, I saw a picture of the device underneath the middle console, and it was labeled as such.
  • paratrooper82paratrooper82 Member Posts: 41
    Here's a link, shows what it looks like with the center console removed.

    link title
  • pilotpilot Member Posts: 9
    I WENT ON WWW.STANT.COM AND THE PART # IS 10509
  • kevlar119kevlar119 Member Posts: 11
    Here is the page to send Toyota specific questions/concerns regarding your vehicle. They responded to me within 12 hours on the A/C issue.

    http://toyota.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/toyota.cfg/php/enduser/home.php

    Go to "My Area"
  • slicksleeveslicksleeve Member Posts: 12
    Keep us posted on the gas mileage. With the price of gas today I think we would welcome a modification that increase both power and efficiency.
  • paratrooper82paratrooper82 Member Posts: 41
    Anybody know what will be different on the 06s? It lists the engine as a 236 HP, LOL did they lose 9 horses somewhere? Here's the page where I saw it.

    link title
  • paratrooper82paratrooper82 Member Posts: 41
    Yep, no kidding, I just double checked the specks on the Toyota website, they seemed to torque the engine down 9 horsies to 236. The 05's had 282 lb-ft of torque @ 3800rpms, the 06's have 266 @ 4000rpms. Wow why would they do this? Maybe gas mileage improvement?
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    It's a new way of HP ratings that all car manufacturers are recommended to switch to. It's the same exact engine as the '05, just a more accurate way of measuring the actual HP. You are going to see a drop in a lot of other cars and trucks as well.

    Here's a link to my earlier post on the subject:
    boone88rr, "Toyota Tacoma 2005+" #5051, 31 Aug 2005 3:43 pm
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    Yes, that is a small heater. It has a little fan in it that blows heat out through the vents in the rear of the console. It takes a little bit for the heater to heat up, then the fan turns on.

    E-mail me if you have any questions on removing the center console, or any other part of the interior, like the door panels.

    Click on my name for my e-mail. :)
  • capanaparocapanaparo Member Posts: 7
    I would like to know where did you installed the 8" JL Sub and the e4300 amp?
    I have the same amp and MB quart 6x9 comp speakers. If you have pics I know few people would like these.
    Thanks
  • lonwlonw Member Posts: 29
    There’s a great online tool for visualizing how different tire sizes compare if you're looking for new tires for your Taco or any vehicle at: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
  • joe76joe76 Member Posts: 1
    I've been looking at wheels and tires for the 05. The best wheels seem to be any forged one-piece aluminum such as Weld or Centerline, I guess this is because the lightweight toyotas tend to be designed for lightweight wheels, of course these are expensive but I'm looking for performance and looks - 16x8 should be enough for the taco. I'm also looking at the nitto terra grapler tires but have heard good things about the yokohama m/t's and the dick cepek cp-II.

    For suspension: camburg or donahoe coilovers and deaver leaf springs.

    I also have a K&n air filter and have a trufilter lifetime oil filter http://trufilter.com/
    on order.
  • westeemwesteem Member Posts: 49
    Has anyone done research on the 'best' oil filter for the Tacoma under 'ordinary' use meaning highway driving and no off roading? I have seen one article about the Purolator Pure One but have not been able to find that product here in local stores.
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    Purolator filters are very good. IMO Amsoil has the BEST filters and oil. Do a google search to see the test results of different filters and oil. Amsoil is always at the top.
  • aztacoaztaco Member Posts: 36
    What is the difference between Coilovers and what I would get with the ToyTec 3" lift (front lift spacers)? I know that add-a-leaf is better than blocks for the rear because blocks can break and cause axle warp and other bad things. What is the advantage of Coilovers? :confuse:
  • aztacoaztaco Member Posts: 36
    You don't check the fluid, you just trust Toyota and have the fluid changed every 30K miles. For the grill, you might check westinautomotive.com, there isn't a lot out there for the 05 yet.
  • tacoma4marktacoma4mark Member Posts: 4
    ok guys please help me! i just got my new tacoma and i really want to get an exhaust system for it. Im looking to only do this once and to do it right so im curious to what you guys think about the aftermarket performance exhaust systems out today. ive done some reseacrh and found 4 possible fits. the first is a Bassani system offered by the Toyota Dealership shop. it goes for 699$ and thats really all i know about it. also its part #4010405. its a bit pricey but i hear its a good company.
    The next xhoice is a Gibson exhaust system. it goes for 362.25 on Autoanything.com(shipped free).Part #618802 anyone know anything about this one? is it good? its rather cheap and its all stainless steal.
    Third is the Magnaflow cat back system. it goes fro about 542.38 online. part # 16625. Its moore expensive than the gibson. is the quality better?
    Fourth choice is the JBA. i dont even know if its available yet.
    Basically im looking for better gas mileage, a beefier sound, and quality that will last. Any comments would be appreciated. please email me. thank you.
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    Haha... I got bitched out for saying the same thing 3 months ago. My Amsoil stuff is on the way. I should hit 7k tomorrow. I am going to change all of the fluids over to Amsoil synthetics this weekend. Like Pb said, if you do the research they are usually on top, especially for extended drain oils.
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    There are a number of suitable filters out there (the ref to online reports is a good suggestion too). I like the standard Purolator, AC/Delco, and if need be, I'll use the OEM. Purolator is available from a number of aftermarket parts houses (check www.pureoil.com for where to buy). The PureOne is a premium from Purolator, and I've heard nothing but good stuff about it. You should be able to source it from major distributors of the Purolator brand. (Possibly even online from those distributors)
  • herkeyherkey Member Posts: 13
    Here are my thoughts on your issues. Its sounds to me that the Bassani system is way over priced, probably because it is a dealer item. Gibson is a pretty good product. The magnaflow system sounds over priced as well. JBA's system is designed for the access cab. But I would believe it will fit a double cab if you have the short deck. The wheel base is the same for an access cab and double cab with the short deck. JBA's systems muffler is a magnaflow. I have a JBA system on my truck, I paid 300 and I'm almost willing to bet that the exhaust system is identical to yours, if you have the short deck. My exhaust measures 44" from the forward flange to the muffler. If yours measures the same the rest aft of the muffler is most likely the same. Then the JBA system will fit. Let me know.
  • jadalenjadalen Member Posts: 4
    Please help, I'm looking for as many responses as possible. I just have a quick question to ask.

    $27,145.45 plus tax, tags and fees for a 2006 4x4 SB, DC V6, TRD Offroad Package with tow. Is this a good deal?
  • volleyvolley Member Posts: 298
    Yes. Enough said.
  • volleyvolley Member Posts: 298
    Head on over to TTORA for detailed information but the bottom line is the coilover will give you a better ride and better performance, but at a higher price. The coilover upgrades the stock coilover and shock and the spacers just give you lift but stiffen the stock suspension. Also many of the coilovers are adjustable so you can just crank them to the amount of lift that you need usually anywhere between 0-3.5" of lift.
  • 12361236 Member Posts: 34
    booner88rr, I've heard nothing but good things about Amsoil.
    Is 7K the rule of thumb when changing over to synthetic?
    Where did you find the best place to buy it from?
    Thanks, Paul
  • tacoma4marktacoma4mark Member Posts: 4
    First off thanks for replying! i do have the short bed so perhaps the JBA would fit. are you happy with it? whats the sound like? how much HP did it end up giving you? im looking to buy really soon. So in your opinion 300$ is pretty much all i need to spend on one? looks like id go with the gibson unless i could find a JBA one. i really wish i could go somewhere and hear all the systems myself. anyways thanks for replying and if you have any other tips let me know. im also thinking about getting headers as well and an air intake system. I found one air intake from K&N but i dont believe it meets Californias standards. Any information is helpful. I love this damn truck!.
  • ahardyahardy Member Posts: 2
    Hey Joe, did you or anyone hear that the new Tacomas are having problems with balancing of after market wheels. I've also been told that Toyota will void your warranty if you place after market larger wheels on. Can anyone confirm or deny?
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    The dealer would have to prove that the modification done had caused the damage or defect in order to void the warranty of the part in question. Basically, they can't void the warranty on the entire truck for putting after market wheels and tires on. You are protected by federal law:

    The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. 2302(C))

    This federal law regulates warranties for the protection of consumers. The essence of the law concerning aftermarket auto parts is that a vehicle manufacturer may not condition a written or implied warranty on the consumers using parts or services which are identified by brand, trade, or corporate name (such as the vehicle maker's brand) unless the parts or service are provided free of charge. The law means that the use of an aftermarket part alone is not cause for denying the warranty. However, the law's protection does not extend to aftermarket parts in situations where such parts actually caused the damage being claimed under the warranty. Further, consumers are advised to be aware of any specific terms or conditions stated in the warranty which may result in its being voided. The law states in relevant part:

    “No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumers using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade or corporate name...” (15 U.S.C. 2302(C)).
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    I don't think 7k is the rule. I've heard people change as early as 1k. Personally, from the research I've done, I think that's too soon. Most synthetic oil web pages say to switch to synthetic after at least 1 oil change. Royal Purple suggests 5K, and same with Amsoil. I had my first oil change for free at the dealer @ 3500 miles. I wanted to get the most out of that but I also wanted to change over to synthetics before winter. I think the general consensus is to switch during the 2nd oil change and anywhere after 5-6k miles is ok.

    I had a pretty large order so I just bought it off of Amsoil.com. I bought the ASL 5W-30 oil, an SDF57 oil filter, 75W-90 for the MT, transfer case and front diff, and 80W-90 for the rear diff. There is guy near where I work that carries it as well so I'll probably go to him in the early spring when I do the next oil change. The shipping charges weren't bad though, like $6.00 (32 lbs. package), it was here in less than a week from when I ordered it.

    If you go to the Amsoil website they have a dealer locator for your area. Just about everywhere I looked on the internet had the same prices, the only thing that varied was the shipping charges. If you can find a dealer nearby you'll probably save 5-6 bucks.
  • dcab1dcab1 Member Posts: 15
    :confuse: Has anyone when going over speed bumps or rough roads heard a rattle coming from under their truck. This rattle might be the muffler at that place were the springs and two bolts hold the to pieces together, or does anyone have any other ideals, the truck has been to the dealer and they can't find it but they do hear it.
  • jrhillsejrhillse Member Posts: 6
    I believe the sound to be coming from the MT. I hear it when I am in neutral coasting to stop and go over a small surface change. Put it in 6th gear and do the same w/o stalling the engine. The noise will go away. I don't think it is the leaf springs impacting. I stood on the rear bumper and bounced more than the truck has ever seen on the road and only heard a small clap. This clap is lower in frequency than the MT noise. It took a lot of energy to get the leafs to clap. The noise that I hear is more of a series of quick, metallic, clicks. It sounds very close to wiggling the stick in neutral while coasting. I'll be bringing mine in soon for evaluation.
  • bobw1bobw1 Member Posts: 19
    Can anyone advise the best place to purchase a service contract on a 2005 Tacoma 7 yr / 100,000mile and whats a good price. I live in Florida where the state regulates these contracts as insurance. Are there any problems with Toyota buying it from a dealer out of state? Thanks....
  • jroksjroks Member Posts: 8
    Just curious...if you changed to Synthetic Oil then went back to regular oil...would that be bad on the engine?
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    According to Amsoil's website you can use their oil right off the bat. During break-in. But I still think I'll wait 'til the 2nd oil change.

    When to Use Amsoil
  • tnt67tnt67 Member Posts: 30
    I have heard that type of noise too and have been under the truck looking recently.Didn't see anything that looked out of place.Had seen on here alot of talk about leaf springs, but wasn't paying much attention.My truck is an automatic, so that rules that out.(other post on this subject) I'll keep watching on here for a possible answer.
  • indigo_inkindigo_ink Member Posts: 23
    With my manual transmission, when I go over a speed bump at a good speed in 2WD with the clutch pushed in I hear a pretty good clunk (not rattling). To me it sounds like some part of the drive train bouncing. I don't have much experience with 4WDs but I'm hoping this is normal as I can believe Toyota has designed in extra give and flex to reduce the chance of shocking loading and breaking something when off-road.

    I simply go slowly over speed bumps now, and try to keep the truck in gear.

    I've taken my truck on a few moderate 4x4 trails and never had a problem with this as the speeds are very slow.
  • tjk05tjk05 Member Posts: 4
    AMSOIL and Break In on New and Rebuilt Engines

    Q. I heard that new cars require a break in period with petroleum before you switch them to synthetic. How long should this break in period be?

    A. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil can be used during break-in trouble free. In fact, vehicles such as Dodge Viper and Chevrolet Corvette come factory filled with synthetic oil.

    Since most new vehicles come filled with petroleum oil, it only makes good sense to change to AMSOIL at the first scheduled oil change interval. New engine components generate high levels of wear metals and can contain contaminants from assembly. By allowing the engine to operate with the petroleum oil until the first oil/filter change interval, the wear metals and contaminants are removed prior to installing AMSOIL.

    Waiting till your second oil change would be fine with no harm done
  • tjk05tjk05 Member Posts: 4
    No it would be now worse for the engine than running conventional oil the whole time. Most all synthetics are fully compatable with petroluem oils so there would be no cross contamination.
    The main reason for going with synthetics is recduction in heat friction and wear, with this comes the the slight added bonus of added MPG as well as the benifit of extended drain intervals. So with that in mind I'm not sure why one would want to convert back to conventional petroleum from synthetic but yes it can be done.
  • asac1asac1 Member Posts: 30
    Here are my plans ...

    Oil change #1 with Toyota oil filter/oil at 2500 miles and then change to Amsoil at 7500 miles.

    Does anyone really go to the Amsoil recommended oil change interval of 25K with no problems? I am so leary of this. I would like to keep my truck for 300,000 miles or more (if the paint lasts that long).

    Allen
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    If you read the specs from the website they have different recommendations per what type of oil and filter you are going to use. I bought ASL 5W-30 and SDF57 filter. By using both of them together the filter is rated at 12,500 miles or 6 months. The ASL oil is rated at 25,000 miles. I will probably change both the oil and filter every 6 months. I don't doubt that you could run it 25K but I have no problem changing my oil twice a year.
  • rc109arc109a Member Posts: 2
    First problem- I just went a a 1400 mile trip and during that I noticed the passenger side airbag cover is peeling like some cheap spray paint job. Has anyone noticed this? I told the dealer and he said that it was dyed and should not peel. He is going to "fix it", but I am not sure how. Should he replace it? It is the same color gray as most interiors, but mine is the tan color. Does this make sense?
    Second-I had the creaking clutch and the dealer has replaced all the bushings and greased it up, but the noise still comes back. He is confused as well about this. Any ideas? Thanks
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    I would not go to oil change intervals beyond those recommended in the manual.

    First, regardless of how incredible a particular oil may be, that has no effect on the contamination that accumulates. Moisture condensing in the crankcase is not reduced (though some additives in most motor oils will emulsify them to an extent), and contaminants from blow-by gasses and dirt that makes it's way in thru the fuel, air, and ventilations systems will accummulate at the same rate regardless of what oil is there.

    Secondly, and perhaps just as important, while the Magnusson Moss act will prevent the mfr from disallowing a warranty claim because of the use of aftermarket parts unless it can be shown that the aftermarket part caused a problem that the OEM part would not have, there is no protection for the consumer if he does not follow the recommended oil change intervals. Say, for example, the engine sludges up (like the Siennas did a few yrs ago). If your engine succumbs, YOU would have to prove that the sludging would have occurred even if you had changed the oil at 6months/5k miles, and, to the same degree.

    Now, if Amsoil wants to warrant your engine, and you're willing to put your eggs in that basket, good luck. (That still doesn't erase the first concern.)
  • dcab1dcab1 Member Posts: 15
    well,here is what i have done, i when to a muffler shop a put a new hanger or the back right hand side of the muffler this raised the tail pipe about 1/2 inch, just the end, this also rotated the muffler system so the bolt are in the middle of the holes as of now I think the problem is gone, I'm still going back to the dealership on monday because they are going to put microphones under the truck. If this is the fix it cost me 8.00 dollars, all this really did was give the muffler system more support, you can make what might be the sound d by going to the end of your muffle and pushing down with your finger and you will hear the bolts hitting the brace they go through, be sure and wiggle the muffler, it just floating their not held their at all. :confuse:
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    Did you know that the average recommended oil change interval in Europe is 10,000 miles? Jiffy Lube has this whole country brain washed.

    If you are really concerned, use the Amsoil for 5k miles and then have an oil analysis done. After the analysis, they should be able to suggest how long the oil will hold up based on the conditions of the 5k miles of use. Keep in mind, all of this has already been done by Amsoil engineers but whatever floats your boat. That's where ratings come from. Point is, it has been tested and it can hold up to the rated mileage.

    Also, YOU don't have to prove anything. The law states that THEY have to prove what you have done after market has caused the problem. When the oil is rated to 25,000 you are simply following the recommendations of an after market oil. If you were using crappy Pennzoil and tried to run it for 25,000 miles, you wouldn't have much of an argument. You could always involve Amsoil if you ever really did have a problem.

    According to the thinking in the previous post, they could technically void your warranty because you used 0w-30 instead of the recommended 5w-30?!? Or Quaker State instead of the Mobil that Toyota uses?!? Please.
  • chris31chris31 Member Posts: 4
    Almost all Toyotas I have seen have audio controls on the steering column. However, the Tacomas I have seen do not. Are they available with the JBL stereo system? Are they simply not available on the truck?

    Thanks,

    B
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