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As far as running extended drain intervals keep in mind that you are required to change your oil filter in between actual oil drains. The filter is what keep the oil clean and contaminent free. Reguarding the concern of moisture and condensation. Yes on any engine this happens as soon as you shut it off and it cools down. Now if you run your engine to full running temperature this moisture and condensation is properly burned off, evaporated and discarded through your PCV system. So no matter what oil short drive and shut down do more harm then good!
So yes contaminants from blow-by gasses and dirt that makes it's way in thru the fuel, air, and ventilations systems will accummulate at the same rate regardless of what oil is there but its the oil filter that continiously filter these out of the oil. Petroluem oils break down far quicker than synthetics this is due to there chemical make up and detergents rather than contamination. So with synthetics you get an oil that wont break down as quick so as long as you keep it filtered and clean and don't do only short run drives you can easily obtain the extended drain intervals.
In this case, the mfr would not have to argue that using AMSOIL was the cause.
They could concede that using AMSOIL and changing oil and filter every 5000 miles or 6months would have been suitable. But if you go 30000 miles without a change, and the problem was sludge buildup, I think you would find that their argument would not be that the substitute oil was the problem, they would argue neglected maintenance.
I do not believe (though I am not an atty -I'm just an engineer) that MagnussonMoss provides the consumer any protection if the cause is found to be neglect of specified maintenance.
Having said that, if you were to sample your oil on a regular basis (say every 1500 - 2500 miles) and the analysis showed that contaminant level was acceptable and breakdown insufficient to require a change in oil, then you would likely have a good argument. However, sampling it for only a few times, or worse, relying on the results that were found with a different vehicle of the same model, does not prove that the oil is suitable for continued use. I'm only cautioning to those reading the posts that just because one person got good results, along with testing, that doesn't mean that the same results will be had in the very next engine of even the same design. Further, MagnussonMoss doesn't provide you shelter from the claim that you neglected to perform the service. The protection is provided from the mfr claiming that using someone else's filter caused the problem, unless the mfr can prove it was inferior.
So, I stand by my original point. If you just put in a synthetic oil and decide to change the intervals to something beyond the mfr's specification, I think you're on your own -at least up to the point that the oil mfr supports you. IF you choose to sample oil thruout the life of the vehicle in order to determine the oil change intervals, you've got a valid argument -at least technically. But I don't think that the average consumer is going to send samples out for analysis every couple thousand miles for the life of their vehicle.
Again, for the sake of those reading this without the advantage of experience in tribology and chemistry, I am only pointing out the counter point that accummulated moisture and contamination is the same regardless of the oil. That alone may not render the oil unusable in 5000 miles. However, unless you continue to monitor the oil by sampling on a scheduled basis (forever, not just the first few oil changes), you don't know when the limt has been met. So, if you don't follow the mfr's schedule of maintenance, you could be left on the hook if lubrication issues result in damage. If you are happy with counting on the oil mfr's warranty, that's fine. But one should make an informed decision about such things.
Here is just one example I have access to off-hand of an oil analysis done on a Tundra using Shell synthetic (which by the way, doesn't even recommend extended drain intervals)
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/4092/size/big/ppuser/32836
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kcram - Pickups Host
'06 engine 236hp and 266 torque
Why the difference?
1. Cruise at near 2000-2500 rpm on a road without stop lights
2. AC on
3. Fan speed on Low, 2, 3, or High
4. 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear
after reaching the above conditions, a vibration / whistle noise comes from the passenger side dash area that last about 3-4 seconds. After the first time, the noise then cycles every 20 seconds. i know the noise has something to do with the AC because if the noise starts, i can push the AC button off and the noise immediatley stops. i can then wait 10 or so seconds, turn on the AC and the noise will finish its 3-4 second duration and then continue on its 20 repitition again. also, if the AC is off, i do not get the noise. Once i stop, it may not start back for a couple of minutes.
I took the truck to the Gettel toyota dealer in bradenton, FL. i drove the truck with the technician in the cab and he heard the noise 1st hand and said he didn t know. he then said he d check for and overcharge or undercharge of freon. today i picked up the truck with the service shop assuring me "it was taken care of." they claim that they checked the freon and that there was 1.85lbs of freon and the spec calls for 1.26lbs. after this discovery they eveacuated and recharged to the 1.26lbs spec.
anyway, this did not fix the problem, and now i m looking for some help on fixing this without having the dealer rip out the whole dash. my guess is that there is some problem with the expansion/evaporator/capilary valve. i want the problem fixed, but i don t want the dealer ripping the dash out and causeing more issues.
does anybody have suggestions or ideas or had this problem. this 20 second cyclic noise is terribly irritating while cruising on the interstate on long trips.
thanks for any help! :confuse:
05 Access v6 6spd 4x4 Indigo blue
To add to the question... They had 18's on it when I purchased it, can I get the originals back please?
Under the new SAE standards, new power ratings are as follows:
1GR-FE, 4.0L V6:
236hp @ 5200rpm
266lb-ft @ 4000rpm
2UZ-FE, 4.7L V8:
271hp @ 5400rpm
313lb-ft @ 3400rpm
245hp to 236hp is a 3.67% decrease, but is probably more accurate. The 1GR also takes a 5.67% drop in torque.
The 2UZ keeps the losses under 4%.
Keep in mind, the engines didn't actually lose power, but the way that the power is measured has changed. Also keep in mind that if the tests were run using regular unleaded, the knock sensor was retarding the timing, thus exaggerating the power "loss."
Also for reference, the 1GR-FE puts out 207rwhp, stock. Multiply 245hp by 84.5% (0.845) for drivetrain loss/efficiency or 236hp by 88% (0.88). Both yield around the 207rwhp mark. In other words, rating the 1GR at 236hp actually increases its efficiency. Only about 12% of power is lost through the drivetrain. At least, that's what I've extrapolated from the dyno results and the new horsepower rating.
In the Siennas, I believe (search posts on Edmunds for details) that the problem was related to a hot spot in the lube oil system. However, if the situation had been just a bit less severe, such that significant sludging wouldn't appear unless oil changes were at 10k miles, and then you have an engine failure due to sludge -you're out on your own.
My guess is Amsoil would blame it on the engine design (the hotspot) and you know that the mfr would blame it on your 10k oil change interval.
You mention the Shell synthetic. Interesting, you also note that Shell doesn't recommend an extended drain interval. Why do you think that is? They can sell you 5 qts of less expensive "mineral oil" every 3k to 5k now -not to mention the 250 gallons of fuel in the meantime. Perhaps Shell isn't willing to assume the risk if you have an engine problem after extending your oil drain period.
As for speaking of "synthetic, extended drain oils, more specifically Amsoil" I'm not saying that it is not an improved oil. I can only assume that they have a really robust additive package (including strong emulsifiers, antioxidizers, etc.). Wonderful. My point was if you want to use Amsoil, or any oil, synthetic or not, to extend your oil change interval, you should monitor the oil (that's what's done in industry with very large engines) by sampling thruout the life of the engine, not just once or twice, or worse, assuming that your engine, in your environment, and your driving patterns will duplicate someone else's results. That's just not good science or engineering. It is the equivalent of assuming that a coat of paint on your building will last the same amount of time as for anyone else. (And how many times have you seen the paint fail first on just one wall of the building? At least you have to admit that the paint doesn't just all fall off the entire building at once, in one great failure.)
Again, extended oil changes based on oil analysis has been done for decades. No quarrel with that here. But it's not done based on someone else's results with a given engine, unless it has been statistically shown that it's not a problem. Oil change intervals for vehicles have been climbing steadily over the years, because of better engine design as well as better lubricants. As for your personal vehicle warranty, if one has the analyses done and documents them, you're probably in good shape for a claim if something does go bad. But without it- good luck.
Having said the above, I'm finished. Feel free to have the last word. My intent is only to provide the other point of view and the logic behind it.
I too am an engineer, electrical engineer, but I understand the scientific, over-analytical, logical points you bring up. Unfortunately, I have never seen any documentation on the things you speak of. I asked for it and all I got was more here-say and conjecture.
My point in all of these discussions is that: At some point you need to trust the ratings and specifications of a product. This goes beyond the marketing, business aspect. This is why we engineers are employed. If I left the specs for the sales and marketing people, we'd have a lot of dangerous, malfunctioning electronics out there.
It isn't legal or very good business to say something can do, what it can't. For example, for Fairchild Semiconductor to produce a transistor and rate it at 100 volts, when it only can handle 20. I would find it interesting to see an engineer have to test his transistor every 15 minutes to make sure it's still working based on his "environment" (surely different than the factory) because he doesn't believe it can handle 100V. He would never get anything done. Amsoil determines their ratings based on universal use, broken up into automobile duty categories (passenger car, light truck, etc.). They have also been around for 30 years (they must be doing something right). The Toyota manual barely grazes the surface of mentioning synthetic oils. People can't even decipher whether premium gas is required. Imagine if they went into any sort of detail on differences in drain intervals between petrol and synthetic. My god, it would be message board anarchy! Of course they have to recommend 5k intervals, you'd be out of your mind to run dino past 7k. It simply can't handle the wear, it's like that 20 volt transistor. Try putting 100 volts across it.
Everyone is entitled to their opinion. However, convincing someone to do something (or not do something) without any hard-copy proof is fairly irresponsible. This has been my never-ending battle on these forums.
The thing is, the DZ option may be restricted to a few trims technically, but in practice it is apparently a very rare option to find "in the wild". I even asked the dealer if I could add it on later. They said no because they weren't allowed to modify steering wheels because of the airbags/safety systems involved (which I find hard to believe - what happens if there was a legitimate repair on the steering column, the dealer would just say "sorry"??).
So, if you have the ability to wait and the DZ option means something to you then wait to make sure you get it built on.
Your analogy to a transistor is nothing like what my point is.
In your transistor analogy, you specifically describe using the transistor outside of the mfr's spec, and the disasterous results you might expect (But even you have to admit that under the right circumstances it MIGHT work. Say if you provide sufficient cooling, if the total wattage wasn't too high, and if the voltage wasn't high enough to break it down. Surely you know you could run at a somewhat higher voltage if you kept the current low enough and provided cooling.)
Let me give you a better analogy- Roller bearings have ratings. These are based on a "standard" B10 life, an assumed rpm, suitable cooling and lubricant. Just because I can successfully apply a bearing at twice it's dynamic bearing in a machine I design, (and I do), that doesn't mean that, without proper analysis and control, that anyone can take that same bearing and apply twice the load in another application. In the case I refer to, the rpm is low when the load is high, and the load is low when the rpm is high. A study of the surface fatigue of the bearing over it's expected life cycle demonstrates that it is suitable, IF the appropriate lubrication and cooling are maintained. What we're talking about is a machine (engine) that may give great results with extended oil changes intervals -if you properly monitor.
Even AMSOIL's webpage suggests that you change the oil when the new GM OLS tell you to. In fact, I would recommend a closer inspection of the warranty from Amsoil, and the parts where it specifically refers to OEM recommendations.
Again, I'm not saying you can't extend oil changes. For a given person, in a given climate, with given patterns you may easily go many times the OEM recommendation without failure. However, the 2 points I made were - without oil analysis you're hoping to get those results, and secondly, without the analysis documentation, you may not have warranty coverage. (Read the AMSOIL warranty. They are very specific about both documentation, and providing an oil sample. If your engine crashes and the oil is contaminated, the warranty implies that you are on your own.)
You ask me to provide documentation of positions that are standard practice in industry, tribology in particular, and mechanical engineering in general. I don't think this forum has the time or space for those courses.
You have put forth an arguable position, and provided your supporting information. I merely pointed out where those points might not be applicable. Again, there's nothing to stop someone from heeding both of our points. Use AMSOIL, get the most out of it you can, but do it while monitoring the quality of the lubricant. Otherwise, you're rolling dice. Also consider this- at 200000 miles, you're talking about 40 oil changes if you follow the OEM manual. (200 qts of dino oil at $1.25 to 1.75) Even if you got the AMSOIL for free or installed it and never changed it in 200k miles, you're doing this to save $250 to $350? How much testing can you buy for that, or how much risk are you willing to absorb? [Actually, in talking about $350 worth of dino oil over 200k miles, I'm wondering why I bothered with the technical points. ]
Waxing is also very important. I'm not sold on the polymer waxes so I use a good carnauba wax (check the ingredients on the wax tin). The thicker/stiffer the wax the more carnauba in it, the better it is. The Mother's brand has some good carnauba waxes.
Thanks.
I must admit I truly believe that Toyota makes the best machine out there and that is not easy for me to say being a loyal american and vet and farmboy from Nebraska but my 2001 ZR2 S10 fell apart at 80,000 miles and a ford isn't any better, forget dodge Toyota rules!!!
I mean a noise, like what you described, after 4 trips to Earl Toyota in Palm Beach, and after begin that I did not want to hear the noise again, the seals of the windshield where replaced, 300 miles later no whisilling noise.
This noise would manifest after passing the 76 mph and got worse after or until hitting 83 mph, just like it was posses.
I tried painters tape all around the edge of the windshield that could give you an idea how creative you get on he road.
I thought it was the AC to.
Good luck.
I had 7 Toyotas plus this new one (Taco 05'), I just put mine through hell, used everything, even if you want to use "want to be oil" (That I have used in the past) will not harmed these engines, any way most of you guys will trade the truck for a new one.
Please post something here that is helpful.
This Is just like beer, I like this Bud and really don't care if you don't, but when I work on my truck I drink Saporo.
Good luck to all.
Also moving to Colorado, I will need the remote starter, any particular brand?
Thanks
And as far as the remote starter, I really like my CompuStar 2WSS-AS alarm/remote starter. It has crazy remote range!
Also, starting last week it has been slipping at speed. When cruising at 50 mph I will hit the accelerator, it downshifts smooth and all is good, but when I let off the gas and it shifts into 4th (I assume) it has been really rough, almost slamming into gear.
I would rather not have to get my transmission taken apart for someone to figure out the problem, so I am wondering if anyone has any ideas that could help.
I appreciate any insite!
-RDK
Does anybody know if I could purchase the front drive axle and all of the required parts and have it installed on my 2-wheel drive model? Can a 2-wheel drive Prerunner be converted into a 4-wheel drive 4-runner?
Also, I've bought both factory and after-factory repair policies -- I think it's better to stay with the manufacture's offer. Much easier to deal with if and when you have a problem.
All 3 tires have the same (or should have) width, so that is not a problem. The 265/70 17 will get you about 102.5 miles compared to 99.3 miles with the 265/70 16 rims using the same engine RPMs. So you could possibly see a 3% mileage increase provided you have power to not lug the engine. With the V6, I don't see a lugging problem unless you pull or carry a considerable weight, which may have a considerable negative impact with bigger tires. As for the 265/65 17 tires, you will only get 96 miles. That may help with a load, but otherwise you will lose MPG over either other option. Costwise, the 65 is almost always going to cost considerably more to buy the tire. If you have the rims, I would go with the 265/70 17.
As for a couple other questions/comments:
1. I use low octane in my truck with no problems.
2. I buy service contracts also just for piece of mind. I pay about $20 extra per month for peace I cannot put a price on.
3. As for the guy wanting to swap his Prerunner to a 4X4, you would lose less to sell your Prerunner and buy a 4X4. It is possible to swap over, but not cost effective.
Dennis
the whistle / vibration noise in my 2005 Tacoma, 4cyl, 4wd, 5spd, access cab can occur at any speed as long as the RPMs are near 2000 +/- 500 and the AC is on. if the AC is off, i don t get a noise.
i ve tried all position variations with the climate control knobs, and even when i leave the AC on with the temp selector at 100% heat, i get the noise.
the noise is cyclic at 20 second intervals once it starts. the duration of the whistling noise is about 3 seconds. the whistle can occur, then if i stop at a trafic signal and start again -- it may be gone or will whistle as i accelerate, but if the whistle goes away it generally returns after a while (5minutes).
if the whistle starts, i can turn the AC off and it goes away. once turned back on, it ll return as described above.
if you have another idea, let me know. please help anyone -- !
B :confuse:
kcram - Pickups Host