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Comments
Did you buy the TacoTunes enclosures? What brand of amp and sub? Thanks for the info.
thanks
Brian
Is this a fact of the V6 engine design? Is there anything of a service bulletin on this?
paul
In my opinion, it wouldn't be a substitute for the van that Mom uses to shuttle the kids to/from school and after school activities, and the Taco might not be suitable for long trips (assuming you have a good line of credit for gasoline). But we've towed my sailboat 1 1/2 hrs with no complaints from adults in the back seat.
Still, I wouldn't want to ride more than 4hrs in the back seat of my DC truck.
But as a replacement for most mid-size or smaller sedans, you'll probably find it more versatile, but thirstier for fuel. (Although my V6 2005 DC gets about 1 to 1 1/2 mpg better than my 2004 DC 4cyl did.) In town, I get 17-18 mpg. Havent' really driven on hiway without towing, so I don't know hiway mpg. (I get virtually the same numbers towing on the interstate as I get driving to/from work in town.)
One thing that I found that makes a difference- instead of inserting the key and cranking in nearly one motion, insert the key, turn it to ON, then crank.
I think that part of the issue is that the fuel system shutoff (anti-theft) has to wait for the ECM to go thru the initial check routine, determine that the coded key is in the ignition, etc. before fuel is available. If you give it a second before cranking, it'll take fewer spins to start. Try it and see.
I really like the versatiiIt’s a mid size sedan (Honda Accord) that I’d like to replace with a Tacoma and most likely we'll be using the minivan (Honda Odyssey) for long trips and Mom will be the principal driver for the van. Both of my kids are less than 6 years old.
I really like the versatility of Tacoma although I don’t have anything to tow nor any need to go off road (at least not yet) Since it’s not much more expensive than a Camry V6 or Accord V6, I thought maybe it’s a wise decision to buy a Tocoma because I can do more with it in the future.
I’ve never test driven a Tacoma (and I will), but from all of the reviews that I found on the web, they all say the driving of this truck is very car-like. My wife is my biggest resistance from buying a pickup and I’m trying to change her mindset because she never driven a pickup in her life (me either), I keep telling her that she would not notice any difference driving this truck and a minivan or a car except feeling safer because it’s more muscular.
What do you people think about replacing this car with a mid-size sedan? Do you find it way different driving this truck and a car or minivan? Is parking ever a problem for you?
I am a complete newbie to a pickup.
Thanks
Brian
While I love this truck and I think you'll love the feel of being above the cars and the looks you'll get, realistically it may not be the best choice for you. Will you get any utilization out of the bed? Out of having higher clearance? Of having 4x4 (if you get that option)? The cons of a pickup are that unless you get a camper shell, every time you stop you worry about whats in your bed - when we are at the lake I'm throwing all the stuff onto the back seats, then when we leave I'm tossing everything back into the bed. Small things - like the kids wet bathingsuits I'm having to put in bags or tuck under the bed mat because I don't want them to blow out of the back. When it rains you can only put stuff back there you don't mind getting wet. You will almost double your gas bill.
The pro's of the bed are - smelly stuff doesn't bother you. We tote 3 5 gallon gas tanks up to the lake - it stinks up the 4Runner. You don't worry about things spilling in the back - just get a hose and spray it out.
Just a few things to consider.....
Some additional thoughts- my wife was the big proponent of me getting my DC.
We have the prerunner because, although I sail, and occasionally hunt, going far offroad, I have never owned a 4WD, and apparently never needed one as I've never been stuck. The maintenance and cost of 4WD is significant if you don't really need it.
However, my wife says that, by far, the 2005 DC taco is her favorite of all the vehicles I've ever had, and definitely the most car-like. However, she clearly notes that she WOULD NOT give up her Honda Ody for a Taco. But the bulk of the 2005Taco is from the current 4Runner model, and it is MUCH more car like than the 2002-2004, as well as roomier. (I can say this as I drove a 2004 for a year, so I'm not just imagining it.)
I say test drive it, bring your wife and give it some thought.
If you need to haul stuff, there's not a lot of substitutes other than having a trailer and a good hitch. But there's no way you'll get the fuel mileage with this truck that you do w/ the Accord or Camry.
I went down to a detail shop where they had some special glass polish -- they buffed my windshield for about 10 minutes -- the scratches all disappeared. I gave them $50 and was on my way.
Not sure how deep, but it might be worth a try to find a good detail place in the area to see if they can polish this out.
Good luck.
Took her into the dealer this morning constantly looking behind me for parts falling off. Dealer said I needed new body mounts and there was a TSB for this problem, lucky me. (I really don't see how this is causing the rattling noise) Parts have to be ordered, maybe this Friday, maybe Monday. Said they may have to keep her over night, says the entire body has to be lifted off the frame, blah, blah... TSB says it’s a 1.5 hour job.
TSB NV007-05 (6/28/05):
"Some Tacoma vehicles may exhibit a popping or knocking noise from the front or rear of the vehicle while driving on rough or bumpy roads. The No. 2 and No.3 cab mounts have been modified to improve this condition."
Applicable Vehicles: "2005 model year Tacoma vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change VINs shown below."
Production Change Effective VIN:
NUMMI Plant: 5TE**#2N*5Z074649
TMMBC Plant: 3TM**#2N*5M002144
I guess this means that if the last 6 digits of your VIN are LOWER than the one above, you need the change. The last 6 digits of my VIN are HIGHER than the ones above? My VIN ends 092***, theirs is 074***. Am I figuring this right?
Now I am even more concerned about the rattle. The closest thing I can think it sounds like is loose screws in a metal bracket, like a loose muffler bracket. We will all know soon if this fixes the rattle.
Had my truck in the shop to install the TRD muffler, and they put some pcs. of foam robber in between the leaf springs..stopped the noise completely!! Service advis. said this would help till TSB came out.Guess I need to make a call today.
We both take turns at taking/picking up the kids from school. We own a house, so we'd need occasional trips to Home Depot. The 4-door truck is ideal. It's mostly used to haul people and for trips around town, but I don't think long trip is a problem. The only reason we haven't used it on long trip is that our SUV is a Mercedes. Since the taco is virtually a 4Runner with bed, the kids feel like they're right in the other SUV.
I had the 2002 taco, but once I saw the 2005 and test drove it, I knew I gotta trade in my 3 year-old truck. I usually keep a vehicle for 8-10 years, but the improvement is worth it.
The pop noise happens when you drive your front wheel over a hole or depression on the road. My dealer said it is caused by the rubber mount inside the hood. They adjusted it and claimed that it went away. This pop noise is more distinct in cool weather, so I'll wait til the fall to condirm it (it's still 100 degrees here in central TX).
The clanking noise comes from the gap in the rear leaf spring and when you drive over a speed hump or bump or rough road. You can't miss it if you rolled your windows down. You can re-create it easily by standing on the rear bumper and bounce on it. Where the steel leaf springs touch, there are rust spots on them. My dealer just refuses to fix it, claiming that it must be a feature since it exists on all taco trucks. I hope more people would make more noise on this issue to warrant a TSB from Toyota.
Another annoying thing about the 05 taco is the speedometer. It is 3-5 mph off. The actual speed is lower than the speedometer reading. Again, the dealer refuses to fix it, claiming that it's within the specs.
I think I'll try another dealer or turn up the pressure on the existing dealer a bit.
Edit: I just noticed that the price went up from $109 to $117 overnight. I got it yesterday for $115 including shipping. I guess supplies are going fast!
Does anyone know if this is the way these bolts/washers are supposed to be set up or are my front bolts supposed to have only one washer with a large gap?
BTW, my truck is an access cab, 4X4, automatic V6.
I'm not real happy about having the dealer lifting the body off the frame, it my never be the same. I may ask them to try the grease thing before doing the TSB; after all, I think my VIN is out of scope with the TSB.
The dealership verified the condition and called Toyota for a solution. They were advised that Toyota was aware of the problem and that a TSB would be out soon to correct the problem.
The dealer advised that it would probably be 6-8 weeks before they would have the TSB and parts to fix my truck. Although, they didn't say, I imagine that some sort of "shim" will be installed between the spring plys.
The back bolts are also on the outside of the frame but just below where the back doors are hinged.
The fees are $10 for one day access, $50 for one month and $350 for a year.
All the info downloads are in pdf format.
You'll have to turn off your pop-up blockers to make the site work properly. Read their instructions on how to configure your pc before you try to download the stuff.
kcram - Pickups Host
This really helped me out!!
Well Yes we do.
http://www.amsoil.com/adslicks/seethelight/index.aspx
Today's motorist is confused. For several years GM and several other car manufacturers have been installing a monitor that uses a light on the dash to indicate when it's time to change oil. But oil companies and oil change facilities continue pushing the 3000 mile oil change interval. What's a car owner to do?
The right approach is to follow the light, and to use AMSOIL XL, the one oil designed for today's OEM approved extended drain situations.
With AMSOIL XL you still get all the other benefits of a premium synthetic motor oil including:
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In short, with AMSOIL you get the best of everything: the convenience of longer drain intervals and performance benefits galore. Plus, it's better for the environment as well.
Manufacturers of petroleum-based oils have insisted that oil needs to be changed every 3000 miles, even for these modern vehicles with the light. Why not install an API Certified Synthetic Motor Oil that specifically states that it can be used for 7500 miles or six months, or longer if the OEM oil light sensor indicates as such. AMSOIL synthetic motor oils have been designed to go far beyond the requirements of engine manufacturers for peace of mind as you travel further between oil changes.
AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oils is available in SAE 5W-30, 5W-20, 10W-30 and 10W-40 viscosity grades.
MORE INFORMATION ON DASHBOARD MONITORS
According to a feature story in the May 2004 issue of Lubes N Greases, "vehicles equipped with the OLS no longer specify or recommend any mileage interval for oil changes."* As we enter 2005, more and more cars will be going 10,000 miles and beyond without the light going on. GM has finally cut the cord. In 2004 their "April is Car Care Month" campaign advertised that the 3,000 mile oil change may be unnecessary. The alternative today is total reliance on their patented Oil Life System (OLS).
http://www.amsoil.com/adslicks/seethelight/index.aspx
My Light came on at about 10k and I reset it. I use Amsoils Top of the line 0W-30 which is a 35,000 mile or 1 year oil.
“In personal cars and light-duty trucks with non-turbocharged gasoline engines: drain oil at 35,000-mile or one-year intervals, whichever comes first. AMSOIL Oil Filters should be changed at 12,500-mile or six-month intervals (whichever comes first) in gasoline engines. Non-AMSOIL oil filters should be changed at the engine manufacturer's recommended filter change intervals.”
As to your engineering point of view. I know an Automotive Engineer in Michigan that use's Amsoil in his Ford F350 dually Truck and on the back of his truck it plainly says "This Truck Requires NO oil changes"
Now as to “(200 qts of dino oil at $1.25 to 1.75)”
I invite you to read about your 1+ oil at Cheap Oil link
COMPONENTS | CASE NUMBER | AMOUNT
Highly refined mineral oil (C15 - C50) | Mixture | 75 - 95 %weight
Can you say Baby Oil
It appears that some haven't caught on to the fact that I wasn't knocking AMSOIL, or any other brand in particular, I was just suggesting that blindly ignoring the mfr's recommendations (i.e. without continuing to sample) is gambling, and the most you'll win with "extending the oil change" beyond the mfr's recommendation is a few hundred bucks - the cost of the oil you choose to do it with. Save a few bucks in exchange for risking thousands in damage not covered by warranty -doesn't seem to be a good risk to take without keeping track of the progress.