I tried to get new wheels last Spring after pitting. Was told that I could not have wheels replaced but they would "refinish" The result was Fantastic! The wheels looked better than new. they even took out a curb scrap. Also have had no problems with wheels after and the still are looking great. I guess this winter might tell the tale. I was also told if problem again refinish will happen again. My 300c was bought in March 04.
I bought a 300C about 5 weeks ago. After 1800 miles (3 weeks) it suddenly started running on 7 instead of 8. I took it in and they determined that the computer that shuts off some of the cylinders during cruise was telling cylinder 7 to stay off. After 2 days and further investigation, they decided it was the solenoid and ordered one. Took 3 days to arrive and that didn't fix it. Next they discovered that the rocker arm for that cylinder was broken - ordered one - that didn't fix it. Next was lifters and cleaning out the oil channels - still waiting on those parts. I am now on day 16. I checked with a lemon law attorney here in AZ - magic numbers in AZ are 30 days or 4 visits. Mean time, I have borrowed' the GM's 300C. The dealer seems to be straight up, but they don't seem able to do anything without Chysler's permission. All troubleshooting goes through the main office techs. I will let everyone know how it turns out!
I have recently bought a Chrysler 300, 1 and a 1/2 month ago. Immedietly, it was chipped to Mongolia, without even been driven in the States. After chipping it overseas and it has just arrived 3 days ago in Mongolia, and already it has problems. On the 2nd day of the car, it started shutting off and began showing CHECK ENGINE signs. I really need help, it is overseas and has only probably gone under 50 miles and showing Check Engine!!! Please help me if anyone knows what to do! Car won't start, keeps showing engine problem.
I purchased my 300 C in October 2004, by March 2005 I began noticing rim pitting. Showed the dealer but service said Chyrsler didn't see it as a replacement issue. I taled with the Owner and two weeks later I had my new rims put on. I know for a fact that the dealers are footing the replacement cost. This fall I'll buy 4 steel rims and put on winter snows, try and save the "Chrome Clad" rims.
I have been noticing a tire noise when I was braking. Looking for other that have had tired problems and how they were resolved. Took it to the dealer and was told all 4 tires were "cupping" and should be replaced. They didn't know of any tire store the sold Contenetial tires. After 30 minutes they came back with a dealer and phone number. At which I asked about the bumper-to-bumper warranty. The service manager said the didn't cover tires. My comment was the bumper - to - bumper must be over the top.
Hi everyone, I'm wondering if anyone else has had very, very poor A/C performance on their 300? I just bought a new 2006 300 yesterday, and within about 10 minutes of leaving the dealership I realized I was very hot and that the A/C was terrible. It was blowing but what was coming out was not cold at all. The dealership is coming to pick it up today to take a look at it. Any thoughts?
I'm in Houston. It's been 100+ w/ the index for the last few weeks. I still haven't heard back from the stealership, which leads me to believe that haven't figured it out. I test drove a 300c and 300 and I noticed that the A/C in that 300 was very bad as well (but not the 300c). I didn't think all 300s on the lot would have terrible A/Cs. We'll see...
I'm in Jersey and have had problems with the AC in my 2006 Touring since day one. For some reason when you first turn on the AC, it blows out cool, then gets very hot for about 20 secs. as if the heat were on, then gets cold. The dealer tried to fix this about 3 times already. The latest is that Chrysler just came out with a new AC control head part on August 23rd that is already on National back order. I'm already on the waiting list. You may want to talk to your dealer about this part to see if it could be the problem. I'll keep you posted when i get the part to let you know if it solved the problem.
YES!! I am just searching for this problem now, and have found your post from last year. I purchased my loaded 300c in June 2004, and have been dealing with several intermittent electronic problems, the worst being a failure to start. It's going in for the sixth time on this problem, and I am starting to explore other options with my dealer. After sitting for several hours, it won't start on the first try, and needs a second crank. The ESP/BAS light also comes on until I shut the car off and back on. Did you ever get resolution to your problem?
Consider the starter relay and/or the ignition switch. The 300M had a similar problem on some of the cars and changing these two items on mine solved the problem. I assume the 300 has similar relays and switches. The relay was really cheap [$10] and ignition switch was $130 with the labor to install it. Under warranty you should have no expense. If they haven't looked at those parts I would have them do so. :shades:
Am experiencing the same thing. Car has been in twice for repair. How is your car doing now? What state are you in? Was there any damage? Let me know as it looks like we may have the same problem. Thanks.
I have a 2006 300 limited, the last couple of days I noticed the radio would change stations when I made a sharp turn (left or right). anyone else having this problem? Alittle annoying but I'm not ready to take it to the dealership to be tied up for a few days. Unless someone knows this can become a major problem (short in wiring?) Only other problem I've had is the outside temp got stuck one day and now it reads about 10 degrees on the high side. Thank you for any help. Steve Swaney
The A/C in my 300C didn't seem to be performing very well until I figured out how to position the switches correctly. I live in the desert ( typical summer day 110-115 degrees ) so I was in a bit of panic when I first bought the car.
These directions apply to the Automatic Temperature Control system only. I don't know about the manual control system.
The main thing is to get the mode switch set to 'Auto'. Then set the fan switch to either Auto-Low or Auto-High to suit your preference. Once you have these switches set correctly you can use the dual zone temperature switches to set the cooling level for your particular seat position. Once I got things set up like this the A/C worked beautifully - even on the hottest days.
While performing the first oil change on my new 300C, I ran the front wheels up on ramps as I am accustomed to doing with my previous M. In doing so, the bottom of the front fascia was so low, that four gouges ranging from 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide and 3 inches in length were created below the fog lamps as the fascia rubbed on the steel ramps. These scratches are just deep enough to have removed the gloss so that they are rough and dark gray instead of gloss black. Any suggestions as to how best to cover them up??
I have a blue one and am curious if anyone else has one that the paint is real thin where it's cut in .. gas cap door truck lid under hood etc... Looks like a poor paint job to me.
I just had my 4 wheels replaced by the dealer at no charge to me. My car is just a year old. I also had to replace all 4 tires--Goodyears this time--at my cost. Dealer and tire maker dropped the ball on that issue. Tires were shot after 14K miles. What a joke. Also I am on my 4th radio/CD player due to a variety of issues. I have had other minor issues such as squeaks in the dash and in the brake pedal that the dealer cleared up. How this car was named car of the year is beyond me.
Initial production of the Lava Red and the Midnight Blue had a problem with those two colors of paint--too hard when it dried, and prone to chipping--and they stopped painting it for a while, and then solved the issue and resumed. :shades:
its not that its chipping or anything my car is an 06'..its the paint is sooo thin where its cut in that you can see primer inside the gas door under the hood, inside fenders and doors and under the truck.. I realize they don't clear those areas but even the base coat is showing primer underneath. It's really bad had it back to the dealership and they say its a "chrysler issue" and that someone from Chrysler will get in touch with me. Haven't driven a thousand miles yet. I just think its a crying shame to pay that much money for a vehicle and its wasn't even painted properly even a neon has a better paint job ( I looked) if anyone has any luck getting them to correct this please let me know.. Also looked at the gas door on other 300's on the lot there all the same way no matter the color so I'm sure this isn't a freak prob with mine just haven't seen anyone complaining about it.
Her's the new deal. 4th time posting on the Tranny problems. I have had my 300c in 5 times. Last time, as stated in last response, they changed the converter, flushed 2 times, etc., ran great, UNTIL last week.
Hit the gas from a stop light, all of a sudden, I thought I had blower att'd. The load "winnnning" sound. Lots more.........
Took it back to the Shop, Ha. Told the dealer, NEW TRANNY OR NEW CAR!!! They stated that they would check it out, Bubba did. Tried to fix it. Changed out pumps, TC, flushed 2 times, etc., SAME PROBLEM.
i REQUESTED A NEW TRANNY, IN A BOX. The service rep. stated that there was no such part number in the BOOK. Went around and around, stating that if an item was made for the production line, then it could be replicated for service. Lotta BS, then all of a sudden, there was a Brand New Trans, in a box sitting on the shop floor.
Haven't picked it up yet. Should get it back today. Bottom line.............. DEMAND a new one. It been re engineered. Water problem, they say has been fixed. Funny, my letter to the design team must have worked.
I have owned my 2005 300C since May 2005, I purchased it in a slightly used condition (12K miles). Thanks to this forum, I already knew about the transmission fluid problem, the pulling to the right problem, and the wheel discoloration/flaking problem. The dealership assured me that the TSBs published for the pulling-to-the-right, and for the transmission fluid issue were read, understood, and the necessary procedures had been performed.
I now have over 33K miles on the 300C, and I can proudly state that my tire wear is normal, my car does not pull to the right, and the tranny is fine so far. I have no reason to complain about any of those issues. I took my 300C to my local Chrysler-Dodge dealer (not the dealer from whom it was purchased), and they inspected the wheels. After an e-mail exchange been the service manager and D-C, I was told that a TSB for the rims had not yet been issued, although a 'how-to TSB' did exist for the maintenance and cleaning of the rims. The service manager acknowledged that the discoloration and flaking was something that D-C was "aware of", and D-C shipped four new rims to the dealership. I am having them installed tomorrow. D-C knows this is an issue, and I cannot see why any dealership would pretend otherwise.
I know you are going to accuse me of gross stupidity when I say this, but the problem is not the car, it is the placement of your fingers and hands on the wheel when you turn. Remember, the controls on the radio stations are on the steering wheel. When you turn the wheel sharply, your hands/fingers pass over the controls. Chances are quite good that you are hitting the UP arrow on your steering wheel mounted audio controls. You can prove this by confirming that the radio station jump is always to the next preset from where you had it.
How do I know this is the right answer? Cuz I do the same thing about once a day on mine.
Just three posts ago, you heard me bragging about how I was not having any of the problems so many others report on tire wear and pulling to the right. I'd like to post this issue and see if any others are noticing it. My 300C has the six disc CD changer, but not the NAV system. When I run the climate control for extended periods of time, and also run the CD/MP3 player for an extended period of time (usually more than 2 hours of continuous driving), the console front panel gets very warm, almost hot. The temperature of the front panel is quite warm to the touch, and I've never experienced this kind of heat buildup in any other vehicle I have owned. I do NOT notice this heating when the A/C is on and the CD/MP3 player is off. I am going to report this problem to my dealer tomorrow, and see what information they can ascertain.
For those of you who are arguing your case about tranny problems with the 300C, you may want to read the news article about the recall on Jeeps. Seems they have a problem with water leaking from the air-conditioning system into the tranny. What a shocker that must be to all those suffering the problem in the 300C.
The MSNBC article below SPECIFICALLY mentions water leaking from the air conditioning unit into the tranny, in case you want something to show your D-C service manager.
I am not a car guy, I am a computer jockey and accountant. However, there is definitely something amiss in the A/C system on the 300C. My A/C works fine unless there is very high humidity. Occasionally. for up to 15 minutes, the A/C will continue to operate but the humidity inside the car increases along with the temperature of the air being output through the vents. After about 10 to 15 minutes. it all returns to normal.
I've noticed, at my home, my heat pump has 'frozen up' in the past when the humidity has been high. Ice builds up around some of the copper components, and the system bogs down, putting out warmer air and not removing the humidity. Coincidence? I think not.
Where are all the good HVAC guys out there? Surely they could pinpoint what Chrysler is doing wrong.
I've noticed, at my home, my heat pump has 'frozen up' in the past when the humidity has been high. Ice builds up around some of the copper components, and the system bogs down, putting out warmer air and not removing the humidity.
One way to check if the evaporator has frozen is to actually turn the A/C off (or the car) and check for continued condensate flow. If the car continues to drop water for a minute or more, you probably had an icing problem. You would also notice decreased airflow from the vents and maybe increased HVAC blower noise. The fix is to operate the evaporator at a slightly higher temperature. 33°F is ideal. Problem is, if that 33° is not uniform across the evaporator, you could still have colder spots, which leads to local icing. From there, you get a runaway effect due to the fact that an iced evaporator cannot absorb heat as well.
YES I THOUGHT OF THAT! BUT IT DOESN'T GO TO THE NEXT CHANNEL, IT GOES TO A RANDOM STATION OR TO AM/FM FROM SATALITE, AND I MADE SURE WHEN I TURNED A HARD 90 DEGREE TURN TO HAVE MY HANDS AWAY FROM THE CONTROLS. IT DOESN'T DO IT ALL THE TIME. I'LL KEEP TRACK OF THE NEXT FEW TIMES TO SEE WHAT IT CHANGES TO. THANKS STEVE
makes me think, if you've got steering wheel mounted controls for the radio, its a problem with the "clockspring", a device that maintains electrical continuity to things like radio controls, horn switch, airbag, cruise control... as a wheel is turned from one extent left, to the other extent right.
perhaps there is a loose connection with the clockspring, or the clockspring itself has some discontinuity when the wheel is sharply turned.
i would say this would be specially true if there were some means to switch from AM/FM/SAT from a control on the wheel.
Has anyone experienced the 2005 Chrysler 300C leaking oil? Shortly after the 3,000 mile oil change I noticed oil spots on the garage floor. It's been back to the dealer who wiped off the plastic under the oil filter, then back when they said it was the pan gasket, then back again to have the rear seal replaced and it's still leaking oil. Have sent certified letter to Daimler Chrysler along with copy of Illinois Lemon Law and listing of all the trips to the dealership with no resolvement of the leaking oil problem. Just wondered if anyone else was experiencing this?
I understand your problems with transmission problem, had a 300 2005. they replaced the transmission at 3000 miles, than it got worse, chrysler did not want to hear about it, I was told that is the way the transmission is. the dealer is crowley in connecticut. they did not do anything about it either, so I trade the lemon for a mercury grand marquis, now I am happy, I am, very suprise that edmund think it is a good car, do the right thing dump the lemon,
Thanks for your reply. How did it go? My 300C is back in the shop again. They told me they'll let me know what they decide. Is your new transmission in yet? Could it have caused any problems to anything outside the tranny?? Thanks.
Rember your 300c doesn't have overhead cams, It has the old push rods, Noisy tappets were quite common with those engines. Noisy tappet wont harm your engine per say, it's just to much clearance between the push rod and the tappet. when the engine heats up the clearance closes up and the noise dissapers. it's a easy fix.
After 3 trips to my local "5-STAR", I think the strange shutter is history. The shutter was such a mystery for the first 8 months. I had the same problem you had. The first time I felt the shake, I thought someone had hit my bumper. The solution was electronic in nature. A module replacement on the 2nd trip and then a re program (they forgot to do so when they changed out the part) on the 3rd trip. Now for the good news, Chrysler is recalling almost 583K 6cyl/4speed auto (300s are included). I just love the time I get to spend at the dealership and enterprise rental. I think I will look at BMW or Lexus next year!! Too bad, I had such high hopes for the new 300!
My driver's seat glides back a couple of inches to ease egress from my car...until last week. Now is just stays put. I have gone to the manual and tried to re-set using both methods, pressing the memory selectors on the door and moving the seat rearward AND using the electronic gizmo which can toggle this on or off. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Bob
On a 300 Mi.trip in 90 Degree temp I heard a clicking sound in the temp control area and then the dash vents would close but the fan was still running and a little air was coming out of the lower vent.Even on manual the air would not come out of the dash vents.After shuting the system off for 30 Minutes it would work properly for about 15 minutes and the it would repeat the same deal.Shutting off the car and recycling did not help. Of course it wouldn't do it for the service dept.Any ideas ? ( 8500 Mi. )
There is a TSB out (24-012-05 dated July 27,2005) covering this problem for 2006 300C's. I had the same problem and they flashed the PCM with the latest flash update. Mine happened at less than 1,000 miles four times until I had it fixed. The evaporator froze up. Regards, Bobf1.
Just arrived home from a 1,858 mile trip (Ohio to Myrtle Beach, Charleston and Hilton Head). Was amazed to get 28.0 MPG for the entire trip. Kept it at the speed limit and did not haul rear at each light. Went through mountains both ways (I77 and I75). 340 HP.....28.0MPG
This post really belongs in the "Real World MPG" forum, but I made reference to it over there. Was this mileage a calculation of the trip computer, or your actual calculation of fuel used and miles traveled? Inquiring minds want to know!
I just got back from Springfield, MA with the 300 C. I live in Delaware. Got 29 mpg the whole way up and back. Less while driving in the city, of course. That business of the engine going down to a 4 cyl in cruise saves a lot. Instruments said 29 but my gallons to miles calculation concurrs. Believe it.
I've had my 1995, 300C now for 14months and 18,000 miles. It's been wonderful. I traded my Toyoto for it and in spite of some initial worry about reliability it's been much better than the no personality Toyoto. I've had no squeks or rattles and I guess my only complaints are the horrid Continental tires. I can't wait to replace with Michalin or Pirelli. All in all I would definantly but this car again.
Yesterday Oct 21st '05 I was told by Chrysler Publications 800 number that they did not know when a factory manual and CD for the 2006 300C would be available for purchase. The lady told me the manuals and Cl for the 2005s only came out in this past August. IF this is true, no telling when a 2006 manual or CD will be available. I bought my new 2006 300C loaded in early June and the owner's manual with it doesn't even show me where the filter and accessories are located.
Question: Can any of you tell me if a 2005 CD or hard copy manual will be significantly different from a 2006 manual? If so, what areas of the design?
The '05 and '06 literature doesn't mention any significant changes. I have the CD disc and it covers all models including Chrysler and Dodge. The printed book is over $300. the Disc about $100. I doubt they will change the manual for the 06--they might issue supplements if something major is changed. I have the '05 Touring. Wonderful buggy--2300 mi, no problems! Makes about 30 actual on the open road. shep
Comments
Did you ever get resolution to your problem?
Alittle annoying but I'm not ready to take it to the dealership to be tied up for a few days. Unless someone knows this can become a major problem (short in wiring?)
Only other problem I've had is the outside temp got stuck one day and now it reads about 10 degrees on the high side. Thank you for any help. Steve Swaney
These directions apply to the Automatic Temperature Control system only. I don't know about the manual control system.
The main thing is to get the mode switch set to 'Auto'. Then set the fan switch to either Auto-Low or Auto-High to suit your preference. Once you have these switches set correctly you can use the dual zone temperature switches to set the cooling level for your particular seat position. Once I got things set up like this the A/C worked beautifully - even on the hottest days.
MikeSp
Hit the gas from a stop light, all of a sudden, I thought I had blower att'd. The load "winnnning" sound. Lots more.........
Took it back to the Shop, Ha. Told the dealer, NEW TRANNY OR NEW CAR!!!
They stated that they would check it out, Bubba did. Tried to fix it. Changed out pumps, TC, flushed 2 times, etc., SAME PROBLEM.
i REQUESTED A NEW TRANNY, IN A BOX. The service rep. stated that there was no such part number in the BOOK. Went around and around, stating that if an item was made for the production line, then it could be replicated for service. Lotta BS, then all of a sudden, there was a Brand New Trans, in a box sitting on the shop floor.
Haven't picked it up yet. Should get it back today. Bottom line..............
DEMAND a new one. It been re engineered. Water problem, they say has been fixed. Funny, my letter to the design team must have worked.
Will post after test drive today!!?????????
I now have over 33K miles on the 300C, and I can proudly state that my tire wear is normal, my car does not pull to the right, and the tranny is fine so far. I have no reason to complain about any of those issues. I took my 300C to my local Chrysler-Dodge dealer (not the dealer from whom it was purchased), and they inspected the wheels. After an e-mail exchange been the service manager and D-C, I was told that a TSB for the rims had not yet been issued, although a 'how-to TSB' did exist for the maintenance and cleaning of the rims. The service manager acknowledged that the discoloration and flaking was something that D-C was "aware of", and D-C shipped four new rims to the dealership. I am having them installed tomorrow. D-C knows this is an issue, and I cannot see why any dealership would pretend otherwise.
How do I know this is the right answer? Cuz I do the same thing about once a day on mine.
Good luck!
http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,169584,00.html
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/recalls04/2005/jeep_grand_cherokee.html
http://autoadvice.about.com/b/a/203575.htm
URL: http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/9371197/
I've noticed, at my home, my heat pump has 'frozen up' in the past when the humidity has been high. Ice builds up around some of the copper components, and the system bogs down, putting out warmer air and not removing the humidity. Coincidence? I think not.
Where are all the good HVAC guys out there? Surely they could pinpoint what Chrysler is doing wrong.
One way to check if the evaporator has frozen is to actually turn the A/C off (or the car) and check for continued condensate flow. If the car continues to drop water for a minute or more, you probably had an icing problem. You would also notice decreased airflow from the vents and maybe increased HVAC blower noise. The fix is to operate the evaporator at a slightly higher temperature. 33°F is ideal. Problem is, if that 33° is not uniform across the evaporator, you could still have colder spots, which leads to local icing. From there, you get a runaway effect due to the fact that an iced evaporator cannot absorb heat as well.
THANKS STEVE
perhaps there is a loose connection with the clockspring, or the clockspring itself has some discontinuity when the wheel is sharply turned.
i would say this would be specially true if there were some means to switch from AM/FM/SAT from a control on the wheel.
Thanks,
Bob
Bring this TSB with you when you go to the dealer for the warranty repair.
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Chrysler/1117004400000_1118127600000_08-027-05/271.html
http://home.comcast.net/~300_C/
dmiller5
Bob
Best,
Bob
Happy Trails
Question: Can any of you tell me if a 2005 CD or hard copy manual will be significantly different from a 2006 manual? If so, what areas of the design?